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http://shpws.me/RSRT Forgot i did these. These rear uprights replace the kit parts on the following kits, original or rerelease: Tamiya Stadium Blitzer Tamiya Stadium Thunder Tamiya Blitzer Beetle They introduce 3 degrees of toe in for stabilisation of the rear end on turn in and greater traction on exit. They are not compatible with the fixed plastic upper arms, they require camber links with ball connectors. The inboard camber link hole is same as the kit. The other hole lengthens the link and lowers the roll centre for more traction at the expense of more body roll. There is a 4.5mm spacer inside each bore should be cut out on the sprues and cleaned up. This can be placed in front or behind the upright when mounting to the suspension arm to adjust the wheelbase. I suggest placing it in front to start with. This maintains the wheelbase around the kit setting. If you want a shorter wheelbase, put the spacer behind the uprights. Make sure the spacer is in the same position on both sides of the buggy. Uses 2 x 1150 (5x11x4) bearings in each upright. You will need to clean out the bearing bores with an exacto knife just to make the shoulder edge in the housing sharp. They are tight fitting, but that is on purpose to make sure they stay put. The camber link ball nut should be installed using a M3 x 12 cap head screw. The ball nuts you need are any of the following type (you need one nut per upright) Tamiya 9804206 steel ball nuts Tamiya 53640 aluminium ball nuts Tamiya 9808012 steel ball nuts Or any other Tamiya 5mm ball nut. Clean out the 3mm holes with a 3mm drill or 3.05mm reamer.

Looking to upgrade my 25+ year old stadium blitzer. It’s all stock at the moment. I do have foam filled street tires. Looking to upgrade to ESC and possibly faster motor without breaking the bank. Maybe suspension and steering as well as the oil filled shocks seem to be shot and the alignment is way off. Probably need some good ball bearings as well. And go!

Hi Everyone, this is my first post in 10 years! I'm getting my 2 boys into the RC hobby and starting them off with a couple of Stadium Blitzers that my brother and I used to race. We are putting a Beetle body on one of them so I thought I would share the progress. How do you like it? Cheers! AZ

May be of interest to some on here. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collection-Of-RC-Cars-Manta-Ray-Stadium-Blitzer-Land-Cruiser/192494090930?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D0ad5a5a81f014e06a7a1dd77e31fdf87%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D202276584894%26itm%3D192494090930&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

Due to my semi-venetian life, due to the impossibility to drive most of my cars, due to my philosophy tending to downgrade I’m going to sell: Modified 58405 CR01, most of the parts needed to switch it back to original conditions, some spares and Tamiya CR Tuned motor: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/77887-tonkatsu-20-cleaning-refurb-some-mods/&page=1 Euro 250,00+shipping from Italy Upgraded 58467 FF03 Honda Civic, several option parts, SpecR gear diff, fluorine dampers & more http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/71205-fs-tamiya-ff03-optional-parts/#comment-636969 Euro 200+shipping from Italy Modified 58384 Subaru Brat re-re without electronics as shown in the build thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/77454-subaru-brat-its-time-to-bring-it-back-on-the-road/ Euro 100,00+shipping from Italy Lightly modified 58482 Stadium Blitzer, chassis need to be changed due to failed modify. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=106905&id=22640 Euro 50+shipping from Italy All cars are intended without electronics. Open to deals