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Found 6 results

  1. I Recently got back into the hobby, with a general emphasis on participating in racing. There's a great local track that race's 1/10 EP only (rare here) with a good turn out for stock buggy 2wd and 4wd, plus other classes every fortnight. I did really want to use a Tamiya chassis in 2wd or 4wd stock, but fairly quickly realized after practicing with my DF01/DT02, that It's probably not a practical choice. I bought a used Xray XB2, and have done 2 races so far in stock class, and feel like it's coming together, quietly expecting to podium the B main in the next race or 2. After my first race though I definitely realized that the day would be a lot more fun with 2 cars. Although my DF01 is just about there with a set up to work ok in 4WD stock, it's proved horribly unreliable, I have faith i'll get it to a point where I can run it, but running it every at every race is probably going to be frustrating. The surface at our track is definitely part of the problem. It's outdoors, using a surface designed for BMX racing, super high grip, and pretty unforgiving on the car. Having the Xray for 2wd left my DT02 without a purpose, side by side with modern 2wd race buggies it's very obvious there's a difference very few drivers could make up.. So I thought I would have a go at converting it to a Stadium Truck. This is a "less serious" class at our track, with truggy and ST run together, motors are free, standard gearing for a DT02 is ~9.2?? with a 19t pinion, and about 8.2?? with a 17t, so it should run well with 10.5, or 13.5, which will make it pretty fun I ran the DT02 at our track quite a bit, I ended up breaking both towers, but it took a long time, and the truck body will save them anyway. The tub did end up basically worn out on the bottom and also cracked in a few spots. I'm going make up some skid plates, which are a general necessity at our track no matter what car you run, that should save the wearing through, and cracks may have been my error with incorrect screw lengths, or driving heaps of laps and not noticing things loosening off. I think I'll get better life out of the fresh one I have. I've always loved the Stadium Blitzer. I consider the DT02 to be a kind of spiritual successor to the Blitzer cars. They are both basic 2wd buggies in the classic style, the only real difference being the very deep offset and wider wheels. So first step was to find some wheels. I found some old Traxxas wheels which looked like they might work, and ran the idea past local hobby shop, and he came back with a suggestion of some old Thunder Tiger wheels, which turned out to be perfect. They're the same width front and back, so will work with modern tyres, they're also bearing type front, AND metric, AND fit on a normal buggy front knuckle. The rears are pin drive, so also bolt straight on, and the offsets seem to be in the ball park for sure.. So here they are. You can also see my spur gear mod from the cars previous iteration, which I'll no longer need for the motor I'll be running. Front - Rear - Body on - Top view of body - Rear 1/4 Front - This body I got from a Vintage Dyna Blaster. I'll run this for now, it definitely has some character, ill clean it up a bit (more) and remove the Dyna Blaster decals, but I have a Stadium Blitzer body and decals on the way, which I'll do in box art Next up is to build a fresh set of CVA's. And later this week or next body mounting, after I grab some tyres. I think with some trimming I should have just enough clearance, but if not I've got a few ideas for widening the track a little.
  2. http://shpws.me/RSRT Forgot i did these. These rear uprights replace the kit parts on the following kits, original or rerelease: Tamiya Stadium Blitzer Tamiya Stadium Thunder Tamiya Blitzer Beetle They introduce 3 degrees of toe in for stabilisation of the rear end on turn in and greater traction on exit. They are not compatible with the fixed plastic upper arms, they require camber links with ball connectors. The inboard camber link hole is same as the kit. The other hole lengthens the link and lowers the roll centre for more traction at the expense of more body roll. There is a 4.5mm spacer inside each bore should be cut out on the sprues and cleaned up. This can be placed in front or behind the upright when mounting to the suspension arm to adjust the wheelbase. I suggest placing it in front to start with. This maintains the wheelbase around the kit setting. If you want a shorter wheelbase, put the spacer behind the uprights. Make sure the spacer is in the same position on both sides of the buggy. Uses 2 x 1150 (5x11x4) bearings in each upright. You will need to clean out the bearing bores with an exacto knife just to make the shoulder edge in the housing sharp. They are tight fitting, but that is on purpose to make sure they stay put. The camber link ball nut should be installed using a M3 x 12 cap head screw. The ball nuts you need are any of the following type (you need one nut per upright) Tamiya 9804206 steel ball nuts Tamiya 53640 aluminium ball nuts Tamiya 9808012 steel ball nuts Or any other Tamiya 5mm ball nut. Clean out the 3mm holes with a 3mm drill or 3.05mm reamer.
  3. Looking to upgrade my 25+ year old stadium blitzer. It’s all stock at the moment. I do have foam filled street tires. Looking to upgrade to ESC and possibly faster motor without breaking the bank. Maybe suspension and steering as well as the oil filled shocks seem to be shot and the alignment is way off. Probably need some good ball bearings as well. And go!
  4. Hi Everyone, this is my first post in 10 years! I'm getting my 2 boys into the RC hobby and starting them off with a couple of Stadium Blitzers that my brother and I used to race. We are putting a Beetle body on one of them so I thought I would share the progress. How do you like it? Cheers! AZ
  5. May be of interest to some on here. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collection-Of-RC-Cars-Manta-Ray-Stadium-Blitzer-Land-Cruiser/192494090930?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D0ad5a5a81f014e06a7a1dd77e31fdf87%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D202276584894%26itm%3D192494090930&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042
  6. Due to my semi-venetian life, due to the impossibility to drive most of my cars, due to my philosophy tending to downgrade I’m going to sell: Modified 58405 CR01, most of the parts needed to switch it back to original conditions, some spares and Tamiya CR Tuned motor: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/77887-tonkatsu-20-cleaning-refurb-some-mods/&page=1 Euro 250,00+shipping from Italy Upgraded 58467 FF03 Honda Civic, several option parts, SpecR gear diff, fluorine dampers & more http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/71205-fs-tamiya-ff03-optional-parts/#comment-636969 Euro 200+shipping from Italy Modified 58384 Subaru Brat re-re without electronics as shown in the build thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/77454-subaru-brat-its-time-to-bring-it-back-on-the-road/ Euro 100,00+shipping from Italy Lightly modified 58482 Stadium Blitzer, chassis need to be changed due to failed modify. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=106905&id=22640 Euro 50+shipping from Italy All cars are intended without electronics. Open to deals
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