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Back in 2012, the world was a different place. For starters, I did not have a Tamiya Striker - until late in the year: Apparently, I had a hankering for something very different, and the Striker was unlike many things before or since. The "sharp wind-cheating Formula 1-style body" [- Tamiya promotional video] and the desire to "hit the trail and strike out the competition" [- also the Tamiya promotional video] led me to acquire one. It was put together during my time in post-secondary school, which meant minimal effort to get it going. The only chassis modification I made at the time was adding the Team CRP front chassis brace and bumper set for the Futaba FX-10. Stickers, different tires, and a painted helmet were all I needed to "enjoy" the Striker experience. I ran that car for two years, after which its run time became sporadic (I even half-heartedly listed it for sale in 2016), to be resurrected in 2021. For all that time, the car retained its controversial front swing-axle suspension. Accompanied by a heavily rear-biased weight distribution and pure friction dampers, the understeer was very tangible. Initially, I accepted it as part of driving a Tamiya Striker, but over time, the intrigue of a double-wishbone conversion at the front end lingered. The time finally arrived when I pushed the Striker a bit too hard and broke both front suspension arms: My wallet made the decision for me to finally abandon the stock front suspension setup: not only were front suspension arms scarce, but they were expensive! It was cheaper to attempt modifications than to shell out for NOS parts, and so the trials of customization and testing commenced. The first iteration used Grasshopper II parts: Citing similarities between the Striker and Grasshopper II, I came to learn that about the only front-end components those two models had in common were wheels and tires. I did manage to make it functional, if not entirely useful... And so begins the modification of a humble Tamiya Striker!

Ok, so Im not sure if I did something wrong or not, but I just got the TT01 turnbuckle set for my TT02. I just took it out for its first run since installing it, and it doesnt quite handle like I want it to. So Im trying to adjust them and either the wrench it comes with is messed up somehow, or my turnbuckles are stripped at the nut. Its a brand new set and I dont know why the wrench wont hold onto the turnbuckle nuts. Any thoughts?

Hello guys its me again :p so i was suffering while building my tt02 , its finally done , but for some reason steering is not working properly, please check the 3 videos below. one video show that my servo is working correctly ( as far as I know ) second video show how my steering is jammed and slow when I move it with my hand last video show how it does not move when connected to my servo what have I done wrong ? thanks 20201025_000439_1_1.mp4 20201025_000601_1_1.mp4

Has anyone out there tried any of the rcdamper parts as seen on eBay on their pumpkin or lunchbox and if so do you have any advice on what’s good and what isn’t? Pics would help as well. Some of what I’m checking out as follows: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383513991045 https://www.ebay.com/itm/383299089658 https://www.ebay.com/itm/183823103772 https://www.ebay.com/itm/184068277894 https://www.ebay.com/itm/383299094371 https://www.ebay.com/itm/184108702857

I know this is probably a well-worn topic, but I couldn't find too much info on quick fixes for this sort of thing. The screws that hold the steering levers down on the chassis of the TT02/TT02B are a known weak spot, and probably due to putting brushless power through it, in combination with monster wheels, it seems that one of those screws has stripped and I am no longer able to tighten in without getting a good amount of wobble on that side. I've attached a pic of my steering setup; I already have an upgraded steering assembly from yeah racing that has flanges instead of the even crappier self-tapping step screw that comes stock. Any way I can get it to hold in there without working itself loose every 15 minutes or so? (Note: the plastic steering arms are on their way out, to be replaced by turnbuckles, but no use doing that until I fix this problem first)

Hi guys, This is my first post (became a member just yesterday) :) I just built the cr01 land cruiser. What is recommended to buy and change to improve the steering ratio? As it is right now, it hardly turns at all :( If possible, I like to avoid adding another servo in the back. PS. The servo I'm using is made for crawlers (costed over €40). So the power of the servo itself is not the issue here. Thanks in advance! Thomas video-1579204631.mp4

Evening folks. I have built many cars over the years- and was an avid racer in the 80s. I have 4 Tamiya hornets, 3 Kyosho Ultima 2s, an original Ultima, a Lunchbox and now a re-re Frog that is DRIVING ME CRAZY. I always wanted a Frog as a kid so decided to pull the trigger on one as an adult. Everything seemed to go together great. On the first drive (pavement) it was ALL OVER THE PLACE. Stability was horrible. It was almost like driving without the steering rods connected. I have searched forum after forum and went over the build diagrams ten times. I can't figure out what is wrong. I can't imagine this is normal for a Frog! Is it? I have spent hours looking closely at photos from the web of many different builds. The front end looks exactly like everyone else! Any suggestions? I have bearings throughout and used the Tamiya RC Frog 2005 Assem Univ. Shaft kit to prevent the dog bones from popping out. Any suggestions? Help!

Hi Guys, I have some steering parts that I want to use on my Blitzer Stadium but I don't have the aluminium mount (see pictures). If you know the number or code of this part (to fix the arms at the chassis) please comment. It will be really appreciated. Tks Glob356

First of all, apologies for posting another clod buster steering mod, I suspect that something like this has probably been done already, but I've not seen one myself so here goes : I wanted to pep up the steering on my stock clod without going overboard on mods and keeping a fairly stock look. I also wanted something that would be relatively quick to make with simple and few parts. This is what I came up with (on the second attempt.... ) : It a replacement for the stock axle guard bars that allows a standard size servo to be mounted inside the axle guard mounts. The tubes are 8mm steel rod drilled out for lightness, and vertical braces are aluminium. The vertical braces have 4 3mm grub screws in the front to pin the vertical braces to the tubes, this allows for slight differences in the size of the servo used. I used a tamiya heavy duty servo saver and also had to make an extra track rod to connect the servo to the wheel upright, and replaced the 4 3mmx15 bolts that hold the stock guard on with 3mm x10. Very happy with the result, the servo saver is a bit exposed, but this truck is not going to get hammered so I'm not too concerned. I've only fitted one to the front axle so far, and it has made the steering plenty responsive enough without being really twitchy, and I've left the stock steering mechanism in place for the rear steering, along with the original steering servo. The front end is a bit of a tight fit, but there is clearance on all the moving parts and it operates smoothly. Now back to fitting the axles on the war rig trailer

Finished my TT02, added a few hop-ups including the Yeah racing aluminum/ball bearing steering kit. Still seems like a pretty limited steering angle, and I'm using alot of power steering in tight turns. Servo has plenty of room left left/right to turn more sharply. Is there an easy mod to increase turn in/decrease turn radius?

Hi folks. Has anyone come up with a better idea than the steering collar on these models? Part of the problem with the plastic, which when it's been used and or bashed about it stretches so the steering becomes more than woolly! I've printed some replacements which work well, but there isn't a plastic that allows for a bit of stretch without bending after a hard impact. Unfortunately I don't have the ability to print anything at a fine enough pitch to replicate the splines on a servo, I could file a servo down for a flat edge, but that seems like overkill. Any ideas? Many thanks.

Hello! I am searching suitable digital servo motor for Tamiya TA07 Pro chassis. The servo motor should be dual ball bearing, with metal gears, 25 tooth spline, compatible with Futaba receiver and in price range around 35 EUR. Also take in consideration the dimensions from manual recomendations (picture bellow). The servo motor can be standard size or low profile. I am thinking about quality servo motor with precise position for steering application. Thanks for help!

Hi, this is my first post here. I just figured I'd share this with the world, since I haven't seen any of those mods anywhere else. If you're only interested in seeing what and how, feel free to skip the next lines and check out the links below (hope that's allowed?). A quick rundown on this trucks history. I got it as a birthday present when I was 14. It was a dream come true and was quickly tossed in the corner for the next 13 years or so to come. I finally dug it out several years ago to strip it of its body which I ran on a Savage 25 a couple of times. Not a good idea, so I put it back where I found it. Over the years I did spend at least some time with the Blackfoot, however, and every time I ended up somewhat disappointed with the driving experience. The suspension was too stiff, unwilling and generally awkward. The worst part to me has always been the steering and it always spoiled the fun with its wobbly behaviour and useless layout (no offence). Anyways... I recently found myself having a brushless Racestar motor/ESC combo and 9kg digital servo lying around - both new since I only ever ran them a couple of times on another RC. On top of that I also had 4 Savage X shocks left. Yesss, you read that right! So I decided to put all of it to good use and revive my very first RC car after its 18 year slumber. That said, I just couldn't leave the steering the way it was - I mean the inner tie rod ball-joint positions are just ridiculous! What were you thinking, Tamiya? (Haha still no offence). Now, long story short. I decided to rework the poor front suspension geometry and throw in all the goodies I mentioned above into the mix for good measure. This here is the result so far. I've got more mods lined up - but I'm not telling. The facia is missing because this way the truck looks freakin evil! You can check out some pictures of the mods under this link: https://goo.gl/photos/F2X7zgJy7UHNmhmC6 Here's a (very) short video of the steering setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PTnfTFsFQ Here's the first ever trial run - you are witnessing something here! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leMEaFB_w5M I'm not going to bore everyone and their dog by listing everything I did and parts and electronics I used. Just ask if you want to know or see anything specific.

Has anyone else encountered this issue? It seems like the steering rods on the RX are about 5mm too long on each side so that even with the suspension under no compression the front wheels point inwards. Is there a suitable upgrade available that is adjustable or a way of shortening them without weakening them? I'd also like to know if there is a way to make the link between the servo and capstan more rigid as it introduces a lot of "flop" into the steering. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

Hi club members,I have just bought a non running QD Blackfoot which I've now got up and running (by changing the on/off switch.However the controls are reversed ie the throttle operates the steering and the steering works the forward and reverse.Any ideas why this could be?,are QD vehicles made any differently to the kits?I've tried a few controllers and different crystals.Any insight would be much appreciated.I bought this to introduce my young son to Tamiya until he's old enough for a self build.He could use it as is but I'd prefer it if I could get it going as per normal operation.Thanks in advance,gary