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Found 22 results

  1. Start date 2023/10 Tamiya XV-02 Body - Team C Subaru Legacy RS Electrics - Tamiya Brushless system 12-21T Ambitions - Capable box stock chassis for rough conditions Recreate Colin Mcrae’s Subaru Legacy RS that was rolled in Finland’s 1,000 lakes rally / 1992 Sweden Rally. Try to realistically “weather” or damage rear half of the car, particularly the trunk that is swinging open and strapped down while still travelling 11/10ths. I aim to make both white and Rothmans/555 liveries along with other bodyset themes mentioned in the title. Notes Where in contrast my TRF based builds are tarmac, cobblestone, dusty, light gravel, hard packed snow and ice patches. I think I’ve now chosen to commit and have chassis rig to withstand harsher conditions in rally - gravel, mud, snow, harsh chipped ice. Colin McRae, who participated in the 1992 WRC Round 9 1000 Lakes Rally from the SUBARU World Rally Team, finished in 8th place despite three major falls during the race. Colin McRae supported the early days of SUBARU's rallying activities and is nicknamed (McCrash) for his aggressive drifting and the sheer number of crashes.
  2. WRC / RALLY Builds thread A dedicated thread for all things rally / hillclimb - Motorsport inspired builds that are not on a permanent track. I’ll start off with the environment context that made me want to start. Project Start: 2021/01 Tamiya TRF417X - 42205 Ambitions - Full LED lighting & make a rally chassis! Welcome to Sweden!
  3. Hi all, I've got a hpi subaru impreza 98 wrc bodyshell, I purchased it without the decals and now I'm trying to find a set, I tried/ had a set of tamiya scooby decals but they were slightly smaller then needed and didn't look decent enough for my liking, does anyone at all know where I could try to find some, or even a scanned copy of the original decals possibly?? I contacted hpi themselves but they can't help me out Thanks
  4. I've previously bored you all to death with the story of my route to Tamiya ownership (for those masochists amongst you: feel free to take a look at my story here - click link) so I thought it would be only good manners to share with you pics of the OG. This post is probably long overdue, but I only just today put the finishing touches to the full refurb that I started a number of months ago, having chosen to take my time on it and do bits here and there in-between building some other new models (see my Lancia 037 and Midnight Pumpkin builds if you're really thirsty for punishment). So, first off: some pics of the old girl in her pre-refurb condition. The chassis is in completely original condition with all parts present and unbroken! And then we turn to the body, which is best described as being in 'honest' condition. Namely: completely original with all parts present, just not necessarily in the best of condition! It definitely saw some use and endured some suffering at the hands of young-me! I even have the original TX in its original box to complete the set! So that's the starting point. Next up: the strip down!
  5. Hello all, I'm looking for finished versions of the 1/10 bodies from Tamiya of either the 2007 or 2004 WRX Impreza WRC Rally cars driven by Solberg. Must be in new condition, preferably sealed. Please get in touch if you know where I can find either. Willing to pay good $. Thanks very much Julez
  6. I've wanted a rally car for some time now. Having looked at various options I settled on the TT02. This will be a rally car, an on road car, and a drift car also. I spent some time reading up on the TT02 and it seemed to tick all the boxes. I opted for the Type S which has some tasty upgrades over the standard TT02. So here we go. I started with the wheels. I'm still waiting on the wheels to put the kit on road tires on to. I'm sure you've all seen the TT02 chassis a million times before, but I haven't, and i like it. This is my first 4wd car since my 1990 Pro-Cat! I knocked this little piece up. Any guess as to what it's for? A little guard to keep stones out of the steering. More coming soon, thanks for looking.
  7. First off, let me apologize for not getting better pictures of everything before now. I'll do my best to get better pics as I continue to make repairs and mods. But here goes nothing! This is my original issue Clodbuster with an old Bullhead body on it. I got this one from a friend of mine whose father built it and then put it on a shelf for its entire life. Here's how it looked when I got my hands on it. This is actually it sitting on my friend's toolbox in his garage. The first order of business when I got it home was to get it going again. It was setup with a Novak ESC (which I was surprised to see instead of a manual speed controller), a Futaba 27mhz tx/rx set, and a Futaba servo. The ESC had a Tamiya battery plug on it so that got removed and I installed Anderson Power Poles on it instead. I hate 27mhz with a passion simply because I'm really good at forgetting about the antenna and whacking it against things, so I pulled the old receiver out and installed a Traxxas 2.4ghz unit. Here's the setup, shown with a Traxxas battery adapter plugged into the ESC. My friend also included an old halogen red light bar. I installed that as well. His father had installed an old halogen light kit at one point with headlights and rear off road lights. With the lights and the light bar running off the same 9v battery source, the flashing circuit wasn't getting enough voltage and only one side of the light bar was staying solidly illuminated. I pulled the old headlights out, disconnected the rear off road lights, and installed a generic LED kit that I got a while back into it. It came with two white LEDs that I put in the headlight buckets and two red LEDs that I put in the foglight buckets in the bumper. Pics are hard to get of the setup but this gives you the idea. I ran it for a while like this but then decided to do something about the suspension. I pulled off the dual friction dampers from each corner and installed single oil filled ones. The shocks are Traxxas Slash rear length units. The front springs are some single rate springs that I had kicking around. The rears are stock Clod springs. The suspension could still use different springs and oil weight in the shocks, but it's better than the stock setup in my opinion. I also made a small notch in the chassis for suspension clearance so I have a little more travel and a little more articulation. I don't have any pictures of the suspension work in progress but I do have this shot that shows off the setup pretty well. The HUGE flaw with the Clod is obviously steering, so I've got the Crawford Performance Engineering vertical servo mount kit on the way (technically two of them, one for each axle). With some slight modification to the 3 way toggle switch, the Traxxas 4 channel transmitter can be used to control rear steer. I've pulled the axle bumpers off in preparation for when the kits show up. For the time being, I'm going to use two Traxxas 2075 (water proof 125 oz servos) until I can upgrade to something better. As you guys can probably tell by now, I have a lot of Traxxas stuff laying around lol. Here's how the project looks as of yesterday when I did a Thanksgiving test crawl. It's no crawler and that's not the direction I'm going with the build, but I hadn't really had the chance to get it out and really use it off road since I got it and this was about as "off road" as I was going to get in my in-law's housing development. I'll get some pictures of the CPE axle mount servo install when I do it. I'm also kicking around different ideas for motor/ESC combos that would work well for what I want to do with this. I'll update this thread when I make up my mind on that, too.
  8. 'Basher' is a relatively new word in my vocabulary, one which I learned here at tamiyaclub.com, and now I need one. So I've 'won' an original Subaru Brat rolling chassis on ebay, shipped for a total of $60. I thought it was a fair price, although it showed up with a broken front body mount due to inadequate packaging. I believed an off-road RC car would make it through the US mail without getting broken, but wound up slightly disappointed. On the other hand it has bearings throughout which is a nice bonus. I was actually looking forward to the locked differential of the early Brat, but this one has a differential in it. Anyway the Brat was one of those cars I drooled over in the Tamiya catalog as a kid and I'm pretty excited to finally have my first ORV (man was I disappointed the fist time I saw a real Subaru Brat with it's tiny tires)! Not shown is a lexan Tamiya Brat body with decals, also from ebay.
  9. The Tamiya Brat is the only Subaru I have ever wanted to own and 6 months after buying one it is finally up and running. There are some small detail paint stuff that still needs to be finished and some up-grades that need to be done. While constructing it I suspected that the steering gear might give me some issues and that improvements need to be made. My local outdoor track open for the summer today so I took it out for a run and yup, the steering was certainly and issue with the RH arm getting bent like a banana right at the end of the session. The rear shocks are currently way too stiff also and combined with a fast steering response it was a very twitchy beast to drive indeed. The body and bumper center's were sprayed with Tamiya TS rattle cans with all the other colours including the semi-gloss black (which you can't really see) and silver, also Tamiya TS paint, are hand painted. It is basically built box stock with the addition of one piece alloy wheels, alloy front suspension arms and an alloy motor mount/heat-sink by T4works who are currently planing to add more dress-up parts for the Frog/Brat chassis. The sticker set is by MCI Racing. Along with the steering upgrades I am looking at adding a front coil over shock setup at some point too.
  10. Hi, I have a Tamiya Subaru Impreza No.58226 1/10 McRae 1998 Edition with TL-01 chassis up for sale on Ebay. The kit is unbuilt with all parts still in the original packaging. Just a bit of wear on the box from storage. Looking for it to go to a good home. See listing and pics for more details: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-Subaru-Impreza-No-58226-1-10-McRae-1998-Edition-New-NIB/222902278929?hash=item33e602db11:g:VKcAAOSwEHhau~gv
  11. Anyone have any interesting Tamiya Brat builds? I'm looking at getting the 58384 Subaru Brat. I need a new Brat hard body for my Clod and I figure getting the re-release is the perfect way to make sure I get everything I need plus have another complete car w/ the included lexan to build up for my daughter. Has anyone done anything unique with the Subaru Brat kit?
  12. There are so many TT-02 builds on here (one of them is my own!) that I hesitated doing yet another TT-02 build thread. However, this one is going to be built to rally spec with a number of hop-ups, some of which I think are unique. So I hope you all find this worthwhile. I am still waiting for a fair number of bits to arrive from distant lands such as Michigan, the U.K., Hong Kong and Japan. It will be at least a couple of weeks before I can start this build thread in earnest. I will begin though with an unboxing video.
  13. I started building my Subaru XV TT02. I got it to the point of being able to test drive it, and thought I would start a thread before it progressed any further. Plans are to do a rally build for bashing on dirt trails. Hoppups are: Tamiya TT02 CVA dampers Tamiya High Speed Spur gear Fast Eddies sealed bearings YR aluminum driveshaft. YR steering kit YR diff locker in the rear Also included, are GPM aluminum battery posts. Unnecessary, but I originally robbed the Tamiya battery posts from this kit for my Neo Scorcher Truggy. I found these on eBay cheaper than another parts tree, and went for these. To be honest, I don't like them and wish I would have gotten the whole parts tree just for the Tamiya parts. The reason being is that it's much easier/faster to pull a pin out to change the battery, than it is to unscrew two little knobs. The wheels came from eBay. I don't know the brand, and chose them just for the chunky tires. I will be putting the tires on the Subaru kit rims.
  14. Now apologies if this is in the wrong section or i'm repeating someone else's thread but I've searched and not found anything or my search words are faulty causing the search engine not to chooch. Right, the front hub on the Brat / Orv as an axle what is pressed into the hub and mine pulled out after a good hours worth of fun. I persuaded it back in with a small hammer and all seems well, but I bet it will happen again, so..... Is there any way too mod this with new hubs from another model, or is this an apparent weakness? It's actually a re-release with all these newly re-designed flaws off the old design and six months old.
  15. Here's my build collection so far. Future will be a Sand scorcher body for the Brat and another Honda for me. That's Doms car. Mine will be have front cambered wheels like Dom's and a wee bit of rear too. Foam in tyres, dampers and lowered. Poss interior too.
  16. Hi all, I'm just starting out with an RC rally car and really don't like the more modern stuff such as the Evo X or Impreza hatchback. If anyone has one of the following gathering dust with the original decal set applied then please shout. I don't mind a bit of restoration work if needed - but can't work miracles, however! Toyota Celica GT-Four 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four RC / 93 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo V / VI Subaru Impreza WRC 97 / 99 Subaru Impreza WRC 2001 Citroën Xsara WRC Many thanks for looking.
  17. This is probably an old chestnut but my Brat rerelease rolls over so easy its hilarious. I understand the science etc and has anyone managed a mod or hop up to stop it? I'm using the rigid shell seeing number 1 son pilfered the lexan one. I have never had so much fun at all with a rc car, but I worry the flip will happen on tarmac so perhaps some quality rims for tarmac may be in order. Let me know your thoughts.. John
  18. I recently purchased a re released Brat kit minus an ESC and have built it up I think well minus the grease in a few wrong places, but we'll keep mum about that. The front suspension is intriguing me due to the lack of a damper. Myself and Ed back in 2001 bought an original Brat off a boot sale and struggles to keep the chassis together due to the front radius arm mountings. So looking at this 'new and improved' version I have just built I can see the radius arm issue is still around. I've seen a few videos on youmeither and the upright kits and printed parts look great. I wonder though thinking how a car's anti rollbar functions, Tamiya would have junked these two parts and gone for a one piece rollbar assembly clamped inside a tube which could have bolted laterally and screwed into the same holes. I'm gonna see what I can do with some bike spokes. I originally worked in electronics engineering and loved R&D so this is hitting my tinkering spot.
  19. I just picked up this body shell with a kit, don't really want a BRZ. $30 USD plus shipping. Comes with body, decals, masks, plastic parts, and light fixtures. And note there are no body post holes, so it will fit any standard wheelbase touring/drift car.
  20. As per post title after a new H parts tree from the subaru impreza 1997 bodyparts set. If anybody has one spare or can help me find one that would be great!
  21. Hello again, Couldn't think of a better topic name, so I just named it after the model - Subaru Brat. Got it recently for 10 euros and didn't see much imperfections, except the lack of body, until I started reassembling it - the front suspension was made completely wrong and the screws were so hard and uncomfortable to reach and unscrew. But with some help from my father, the screws were off and I cleaned and reassembled the front. Altough, one porblem is still here and I don't know what to do. A nut, which is holding the front wheel is 'stuck' (don't know if it's the right word to use in such situation). When I try to screw or unscrew it, it just keeps spinning/moving in its place. Here are some pictures, so it would be easier for you to understand: Maybe someone of you have had similair problems? What hould I do? Also, I would be interested in a Subaru Brat body.
  22. This Christmas I was fortunate enough to receive a fairly large sum of cash (as far as a 16 year old's pocket money goes; we're not exactly talking thousands here) from my loving parents. Having instantly deciding to put the towards RC stuff, I thought to myself 'I now have extra funds, what car have I always wanted, but never found the cash to buy at the right time?' 'Of course' I exclaimed to my cat 'A Subaru Brat! I've always wanted one of those since I saw one on the shelf at my LHS. Let's go look on eBay'. My cat sat there looking blankly at me, obviously unwilling to help me search for a Brat. 'Well, screw you then.' I said, and began typing the eBay URL into my web browser. My cat walked quietly out of the room to do whatever cats do. Stuff her face in her litter tray or something, I don't know. About 30 minutes of searching through various Brats that were available at the time, I found one at the reasonable price of £95. Two bodies, both only slightly damaged and the car was 95% complete. I thought 'This has got to be the one'. Looks in good condition, should be an easy job to restore it. But then I noticed the same seller had a Frog and a Thunder Dragon for the same price, in the similar condition. After about 20 minutes of careful consideration, I decided that I wanted a Brat more than a Frog, and that a Thunder Dragon was too light on the peripherals front for the price, so I went for the Brat. The Frog sold soon after. So I put in an offer, and that offer was accepted, lucky for me. a few days later, Mr Postman thrust a large brown box upon me when I open my front door. Oh the Joy as I slashed at the brown parcel tape with my trusty steel Stanley knife, eager to crack open the box and get a whiff of that musky pong of vintage Tamiya plastic. And so, here we are. (Pics from eBay page, courtesy of eBay seller 'sexyevoboy', who has great service by the way) From what I can tell, since it has no skid plate mounts and deep dish font wheels, it's an early model. Whoopee for me, the older the better. Althought it has the front bumper mount with the frog post, maybe that got broken then replaced with a newer one though? Once I got it out of it's box, I instantly started tearing it down and giving it a proper once-over. Parts were scrubbed, de-greased and re-greased, gearbox relieved of old, congealed grease and reassembled, those silly hex drive half shafts received fresh grease. Out went the old electronics for the time being and in went some newer, functioning ones so I could test the mechanicals. I also lobbed on some Re-Re Brat wheels I had on my Ranger to make it the same width at the front that was at the back, since it looked rather silly with the wider fronts. And after all that, this is how she looks at the moment. I peeled the old flaky stickers off, that rather surprisingly took quite a lot of paint with them. I also sanded the edges of the paint to stop it flaking all over my carpet. As you can see, the tailgate bracket has come a cropper of some rear collsions during it's lifetime, hence the wonky tailgate. I'm a big fan of the suspension on the Brat, it certainly does it's job well. Just look at that flex! From what's essentially a buggy! The (nice and clean) chassis. Need to tidy up th wiring if these electronics are stayin in for any great length of time, and find a new left battery retainer so I don't have to use the batteries own cable to stop it from falling out. Not sure what happened here, appears to be black paint on the front of the car. On the hub carrier and the front of the chassis. Also noticed white paint on some of the bumper screws. This is the damage to the red body. It's quite bad, but probably fixable with a little styrene and polycement. The spare body and original electronics. Interesting paint job there, sparkling paint is a nice touch. The main damage to the spare body. The roof rails were damaged, but easily repaired with polycement.Those polkadots must have taken some time to do. The origination owner appears to have installed a different plug, never seen one of those on an RC before. The ceramic resistors are also added. Theres also two of them, they both have 'UTM 308-3 R47 10%m' written on them in red. The receiver also has what appears to be 20 year old plasti-dip coating. Yuck, that stuff goes incredibly sticky after that amount of time. It even stained the plastic of the chassis. Stinks too. Eww. And now it's on to everyones favorite part of thread; Question Time! 1.Which body would it be easiest to repair? They're both damaged so they won't mount properly, and both need fixing. I just need to know which would be easier, fixing a front or rear mounting hole. 2.Did the Brat come with clear or tinted window glass? I have both. Is it the same deal as the Blackfoot? Brat had clear and the Mud Blaster had tinted? 3.Will Re-Re Brat driveshafts fit right in? I may need to replace them, because I don't see those hex jobbies lasting long. 4.Is that copper rod part of the kit, or did the previous owner add that? That's all for now, will update when progress is made. Won't be doing any painting for a while because of the weather, unless I can clear up the shed and make a painting booth.
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