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Found 16 results

  1. Hi everyone, I recently bought the Audi Quattro TT-02 and naturally wanted more ground clearance. So I modified the chassis as suggested by Mark Bryan on YT. Right now clearance is a bit over 20 mm which is enough for the moment since I do not want to touch drive shafts and cups. However, bottoming out the super mini CVA shocks now leaves a 5 mm air gap below the chassis. I'm fairly new to RC cars but understood that the chassis should bottom out before the shocks. Presumeably to not overstrain the shock mounts? Anyway, I do not intend to hit large jumps with this car but will this be a problem in the long run? What are my options? Either increase leverage ratio via the lower suspension arm which I do not think is possible or find a shock with the same length (~59 mm) and longer stroke? Thanks Karsten
  2. Back in 2012, the world was a different place. For starters, I did not have a Tamiya Striker - until late in the year: Apparently, I had a hankering for something very different, and the Striker was unlike many things before or since. The "sharp wind-cheating Formula 1-style body" [- Tamiya promotional video] and the desire to "hit the trail and strike out the competition" [- also the Tamiya promotional video] led me to acquire one. It was put together during my time in post-secondary school, which meant minimal effort to get it going. The only chassis modification I made at the time was adding the Team CRP front chassis brace and bumper set for the Futaba FX-10. Stickers, different tires, and a painted helmet were all I needed to "enjoy" the Striker experience. I ran that car for two years, after which its run time became sporadic (I even half-heartedly listed it for sale in 2016), to be resurrected in 2021. For all that time, the car retained its controversial front swing-axle suspension. Accompanied by a heavily rear-biased weight distribution and pure friction dampers, the understeer was very tangible. Initially, I accepted it as part of driving a Tamiya Striker, but over time, the intrigue of a double-wishbone conversion at the front end lingered. The time finally arrived when I pushed the Striker a bit too hard and broke both front suspension arms: My wallet made the decision for me to finally abandon the stock front suspension setup: not only were front suspension arms scarce, but they were expensive! It was cheaper to attempt modifications than to shell out for NOS parts, and so the trials of customization and testing commenced. The first iteration used Grasshopper II parts: Citing similarities between the Striker and Grasshopper II, I came to learn that about the only front-end components those two models had in common were wheels and tires. I did manage to make it functional, if not entirely useful... And so begins the modification of a humble Tamiya Striker!
  3. Hello everyone! All most finished with this project and wanted to show it off to some people who would appreciate it.
  4. Hi! I've seen several mentions of an old aluminium shock tower conversion, the CRP 1556 Could anyone offer me dimensions for this rare, unavailable part, please? Or even a scale drawing, or photos of it next to a rule (blank) credit type card, please? I'm hoping I can fashion one from sheet aluminium. Cheers!!
  5. Hey all, Thanks for letting me in. I have really enjoyed building up my MF-01x ford escort mk2. Wanting to tune it up a bit I looked into shocks and bought some Yeah Racing big bore 50mm dampers based on reading 50mm shocks are for the chassis. However on fitting I realise the stock friction dampers are 55mm and fitting these will drop a fair bit of ride height. Since om running it off road I need to keep clearance. Can I swap out the piston lengths for longer or do I need a full set of diffrent shocks. With the note that the rear right arm clashes with body can I fit 60mm shocks here and try to space if off the body? Also what oil should I be getting for them? Thanks
  6. Has anyone out there tried any of the rcdamper parts as seen on eBay on their pumpkin or lunchbox and if so do you have any advice on what’s good and what isn’t? Pics would help as well. Some of what I’m checking out as follows: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383513991045 https://www.ebay.com/itm/383299089658 https://www.ebay.com/itm/183823103772 https://www.ebay.com/itm/184068277894 https://www.ebay.com/itm/383299094371 https://www.ebay.com/itm/184108702857
  7. Does anyone know the number of toe-in degrees for the rear hub carriers on a Boomerang re-release? I've searched a lot and found references to them being "1 degree more" than other hubs, but nothing specific on their actual angle. I'm trying to pick up some aluminium alternatives to the plastic kit parts. I've read others saying that the front knuckles could be replaced by TA01 parts, so I'm wondering if the same is true of the rears? There are parts out there with +0.5, +1, +2 deg of toe-in, but can't seem to find what the original Boomerang parts are. Any help welcomed!
  8. Wanted: Aftermarket front oil shocks for the tamiya hornet to be installed in the same way like the stocks. Basically i need you-g, parma etc these kind of shocks. Used or new. Thanks
  9. Hi, this is my first post here. I just figured I'd share this with the world, since I haven't seen any of those mods anywhere else. If you're only interested in seeing what and how, feel free to skip the next lines and check out the links below (hope that's allowed?). A quick rundown on this trucks history. I got it as a birthday present when I was 14. It was a dream come true and was quickly tossed in the corner for the next 13 years or so to come. I finally dug it out several years ago to strip it of its body which I ran on a Savage 25 a couple of times. Not a good idea, so I put it back where I found it. Over the years I did spend at least some time with the Blackfoot, however, and every time I ended up somewhat disappointed with the driving experience. The suspension was too stiff, unwilling and generally awkward. The worst part to me has always been the steering and it always spoiled the fun with its wobbly behaviour and useless layout (no offence). Anyways... I recently found myself having a brushless Racestar motor/ESC combo and 9kg digital servo lying around - both new since I only ever ran them a couple of times on another RC. On top of that I also had 4 Savage X shocks left. Yesss, you read that right! So I decided to put all of it to good use and revive my very first RC car after its 18 year slumber. That said, I just couldn't leave the steering the way it was - I mean the inner tie rod ball-joint positions are just ridiculous! What were you thinking, Tamiya? (Haha still no offence). Now, long story short. I decided to rework the poor front suspension geometry and throw in all the goodies I mentioned above into the mix for good measure. This here is the result so far. I've got more mods lined up - but I'm not telling. The facia is missing because this way the truck looks freakin evil! You can check out some pictures of the mods under this link: https://goo.gl/photos/F2X7zgJy7UHNmhmC6 Here's a (very) short video of the steering setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PTnfTFsFQ Here's the first ever trial run - you are witnessing something here! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leMEaFB_w5M I'm not going to bore everyone and their dog by listing everything I did and parts and electronics I used. Just ask if you want to know or see anything specific.
  10. Hey all, after much consternation my Lunchie is running and is a blast. However, it is older and has NO mods yet. I have a set of 4 shocks from Abisma coming from the UK and I will be ordering the 5th shock brace from Ampro to solve that area rather than doing the 5th shock. My question is I have been reading posts about the front end on this vehicle and mine is just a sloppy mess. However, the FX10 mod seems a bit complex and requires some fiddling, modifying, and extra parts and the Ampro double wishbone set up appears to be prone to breakage. I am not going to be doing any major air with this thing but going off curbs and small jumps is part of the fun and I don't want to spend $30 on something that "may" break the first time out like I saw in another thread. So, what do you guys recommend? Is there a way to make the front end issues better with minor mods or are these two I noted the only real option out there?. And if you have done one or both, pics or how-to's would be appreciated! Thanks!
  11. I recently purchased a re released Brat kit minus an ESC and have built it up I think well minus the grease in a few wrong places, but we'll keep mum about that. The front suspension is intriguing me due to the lack of a damper. Myself and Ed back in 2001 bought an original Brat off a boot sale and struggles to keep the chassis together due to the front radius arm mountings. So looking at this 'new and improved' version I have just built I can see the radius arm issue is still around. I've seen a few videos on youmeither and the upright kits and printed parts look great. I wonder though thinking how a car's anti rollbar functions, Tamiya would have junked these two parts and gone for a one piece rollbar assembly clamped inside a tube which could have bolted laterally and screwed into the same holes. I'm gonna see what I can do with some bike spokes. I originally worked in electronics engineering and loved R&D so this is hitting my tinkering spot.
  12. So I discovered this weekend that my ageing FF01 doesn't handle well at all. And although it could be blamed on inappropriate tyres and a very wet track, I did notice a huge amount of slop in pretty much every part of the suspension. Difficult to see what can be done about sloppy arms (bar replacing them) but there must be an easy solution to the sloppy ball end problem. Is there a recommended upgrade or replacement for worn ball ends? I'd consider switching from bolt-type balls with closed cups to nut-type balls (with the hex recess in the top) and open cups so I don't have to pop the joints to service the car, but to be honest I don't do a lot of servicing on it anyway. It only comes out for the odd bash or maybe a fun race here and there. Is there a way to reduce slop in FF01 arms, bar replacing them with new? I guess they're just worn after years of bashing. Thanks
  13. Hi, finished building my M05 only to have a play on the drive and try to jump a small speed-hump and shearing off the front-right hand side suspension mount. When I say small I wasn't being too ambitious, it was about 10cm tall, if that. I've tried epoxy, it worked until I stupidly tried the same thing (I'll never learn), should I fix it the same way again and just not attempt jumps or is there a way of reinforcing the mounts so they don't break again? Thanks Adam
  14. Who can help me with a right side front suspension arm for my WW1 ?
  15. Hi all. Feel free to direct this thread to another place if it's in the wrong location Anyways, I am planning to buy the JunFac Tamiya Frog Aluminium Front Shock Towers set (found here: http://www.fusionhob...rs-p/j20221.htm). However, I have found it hard to find the name/make of any shocks that will fit them. I believe the length recommened for them is 60/62mm, but I not sure about what size the connectors on each of the shocks have to be to match the size of hole on the shock towers. I have found these Absima shocks, which are 62mm, and come with optional ends: http://www.modelspor...products/369640 . Does anyone know if they will fit? If not, then could an owner of this suspension kit direct me to the shocks they've used? Preferably, the price needs to be around £20 or less for 2, although if they do cost more then I'd still like to see Thanks in advance, Mack
  16. Does any one know where to get the short drive shafts for this truggy, the suspension seems to be available everywhere, but the shafts are out of stock every place, I have looked. Also does any one have some advice on breaking in Nitro/Gas engines, as far as the temps to start and length of time befpre you can matt the throttle. I'm shure it's a bit different between company, and sizw, but there must be a general rule of thumb. Spykells
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