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Found 8 results

  1. I got caught up in the recent TA03 fever on here! So while there's nothing ground breaking in this thread, there will hopefully be something different in my take on the chassis There will be two three at least five builds in this thread: A TA03-RS 911 GT1, in 1996 Le Mans livery and nicknamed 'Code Red' A TA03F-Pro David Jun restore and rebuild A TA03F-TRF project, built entirely from parts, most of which are blue, nicknamed 'Bluebird' A TA03F-Pro 'Drift' Chassis that will be built with a liberal spray of purple aluminium parts A TA03F Subaru Impreza that was bought from Japan as a built shelf-queen to participate in the Silver Can Budget Rally Build Off First, an introduction to the 911 GT1 build...
  2. Welcome to my build thread. After starting a introduction topic someone mentioned i should make one, so here it is. Basically i'm going to try and convert the Tamiya Impreza WRC body into the road going Impreza called the P1, which i happen to own. The Kit: Tamiya 58210 This has been stored in my attic for the last 16 years. What i am trying to make: Subaru Impreza P1 What is the Impreza Prodrive P1? Its a limited edition version of the Japanese spec Impreza STi type R Coupe only ever available in the UK. Limited to 1000 units, built in 1999 by Subaru UK in collaboration with Subaru Japan, STi, and of course Prodrive. For those of you that dont know who Prodrive are, they made all the WRC Imprezas. The biggest difference between the Tamiya shell and the P1 is obviously the fact that Tamiya based it on the WRC car, which means i need to convert it a little. The roof air vents need to go as do the bonnet vents. The front bumper is incorrect , the P1´s front splitter is missing, the rear wing from the P1 is totally different (made by McLaren) and last but not least the wheels are incorrect. The Tamiya body i also too wide and would make up a perfect 22B version of the car, but honestly i'm not sure what to do there. I have looked all over the internet but i cannot find any different versions of the classic styled Impreza other than the WRC cars . I will be trying to make up all the P1 relevant decals myself using coral draw. I have never done that before, but im sure youtube can help . That will consist of: Prodrive P1 Titanium badges Front Splitter with drivers lights and covers (Not fogs!) SUBARU Lettering on the boot O.Z Racing lettering for the wheels Wipers front and rear P1 embossing on the rear spoiler Carbon gurney flap on the rear spoiler Custom number plates as in the picture from my P1 I am not going to cut up the original body or rear spoiler, i would rather leave those completely untouched so i have ordered the following at Siedel´s. Tamiya 05726 Mirrors Lexus GS400, these look like the impreza door mirrors that are missing from the kit. Tamiya 04134 Spoiler Impreza WRC 1999 Tamiya 1825324 Body Impreza WRC 1999. Tamiya 0445837 Wheels Impreza WRC 2001. These are exact copies of the O.Z Racing wheels used on the P1, just in the wrong colour. Tamiya 50419 Tyres 26mm, these are the same as the original kit ones and copies of the Pirelli P Zeros. Which the P1 originally had. Tamiya 53113 Inner Sponge The TA03F Chassis plus Hop-Up Options. I have finished building the chassis and used the following Hop-Ups. 53280 TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set 53263 Dyna-Run Super Touring Motor 53279 TA03 Torque Splitter (front mounted) 53309 TA03 Titanium Suspension Shaft Set 53287 TA03 Carbon Reinforcing Plate 53275 TA03 Alu Motor Heat Sink 53268 TA03 Urethane Bumper Set 53113 Racing Inner Sponge Set. TA03 Race Ball Bearing set (Carson) Now time for some pictures, the chassis so far: The O.Z racing wheels arrived today, just need to paint them the correct colour. That would be anthrazit, a colour thats not available from Tamiya so i will be using TS-38 Gun Metal Grey. Thats all for today, thanks for reading. Im off back to the UK tonight so nothing will be happening for the next 14 days.
  3. This is my first thread, so a short summery about my RC history. When I come back to the RC hobby after over 20 year in 2020, there was only a Grasshopper II from 1995 and a Manta Ray from 1998. Beginning from April 2020, more and more RC cars found their way into my collection. Most/all of them are from the late 80s, respectively the 90s. There are a Porsche Turbo RSR 934 Black Edition (TA02SW), a Dyna Storm, a Avante 2011 and an Egress 2013. I'm a fan of the RC cars/chassis from the 90s like the Top Force, Dyna Storm, TA01, TA02, FF01 or TA03 since I was reading (or more soaking up) the Tamiya guide books when I was a teenager. This summer it turned out, that @wtcc5 and @Quincy live near to my home town. After a nice on-road race day, they convinced me to add a FF01-chassis to my collection. After buying, restoring and full upgrading a FF01 (PIAA Honda Accord), the next project should be starting...a TA03F. Especially the hop-uped TA-03F PRO "David Jun" edition impressed me even as a teenager (guide book from 1998, page 39). But to find a DJ edition is hard and expensive, so I want to convert a standard TA03F PRO into a "David Jun" edition. Starting point: Hopefully the final status in the future: The standard TA03F PRO version used grey plastic parts, so the challenge will be to find the black ones. Fortunatelly there is the re-re of the Porsche 911 GT1 Street (TA03R-S), so a lot of parts in black are already available. Also the aluminum parts (rear hubs, pulleys, motor heat sink,...) will be hard to find, because no longer produced by Tamiya. So the first step was to disassemble the complete chassis, cleaning all parts and have a look, if any parts can be reused or are broken and have to be replaced. After the inspection of the parts, the front and the rear gearboxes have cracks and have definitely being replaced. The front gearbox will be no issue, because it is the same part as the rear gearbox of the TA03R. More critial is the damaged rear gearbox part. Fortunatelly, the seller of the chassis sent me an additional rear gearbox as a spare part. I will use this one until I find a black one. The gear wheels itself comes in almost new condition and also the ball diffs looks good. The installed low friction dampers are looking good as well, so I will renew only the seals/o-rings. Now it's time to make the list with additional parts for the David Jun edition: A-Parts (front gearbox/suspension mount - black) (10005657) B-Parts (rear gearbox/suspension mount - black) (50699) C-Parts (steering parts - black) (50700) D-Parts (suspension arms - black) (50701/10005660) E-Parts (front bumper - black) (19006835) J-Parts (battery holder - black) (50703) 53157 - Aluminum King Pins 53172 - 4WD TA02 & FWD TA02 Universal Shaft Set 53226 - 1/10 Touring Car Aluminum Front Hub Carrier 53275 - TA03 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink 53276 - TA03 Fluoriscent Color Stabilizer Set 53278 - TA03 Aramid Fiber Reinforced Drive Belt 53286 - TA03 Aluminum pulley (16T) 53288 - TA03 Aluminum Rear Upright 53302 - TA03F PRO Carbon Chassis Plates 53325 - TA03 Aluminum Knuckle Arm 53157 - Aluminum King Pins ... (If parts are missing, I will update the list) Once again, I was lucky, because @Quincy also work/worked on the same chassis and have some parts for me: Important parts and also hard to find. Thanks a lot for providing me these parts As I mentioned, most of the black parts are shared with the Porsche 911 GT1 (TA03R-S). I'm currently not sure to buy these parts as spare parts or the complete kit (depending on the price difference)... Now the list of missing parts got a little bit shorter: B-Parts (rear gearbox/suspension mount - black) (50699) - on the way 53274 - TA03 Aluminum Counter Shaft 53275 - TA03 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink 53276 - TA03 Fluoriscent Color Stabilizer Set 53278 - TA03 Aramid Fiber Reinforced Drive Belt 53286 - TA03 Aluminum pulley (16T) 53288 - TA03 Aluminum Rear Upright ...
  4. I dug this out recently, the chassis has been used with a different shell. Here is the body & chassis re-united after 20+years. Bog stock chassis complete with plastic bushes. Underside showing very little in the way of battle scars. I'm considering putting it into use, on the cheap! Bearings will be the first thing fitted and I have a spare TBLE-02S that could be used. It has an Acoms AS-12 servo fitted, will this do for a bit of car park bashing? Or bin & replace? Does anyone have an opinion on what motor to use, stick with the silver can or go hotter if these chassis can cope? Any opinions glady received. Ta.
  5. Hello I have restored an old ta03f, which I'm now selling due to limited space on my shelves :-) Its an original, in a really good mechanical condition. It's fully ball raced, and comes with an upgraded front bumper (see photo). All plastic parts are intact (no cracks) and no screws have been over tightened, Drivetrain is in really good condition, it doesn't seem to have run a lot, or all the internal gears, axles etc. have bee changed. The body shell is a mess though. It still fits the chassis, but it doesn't look good (see photos). Comes with original acoms servo and reciever and a silvecan motor. Located in Denmark Can ship to EU for €16 (please let me know if you want a shipping quote to somewhere else) Asking price: €65 Just ask, if you have any questions. Cheers, Peter
  6. My local track has put down a small carpet drift track, and it seems to be gaining traction (heh!) among our club members. At the same time, I happened across a TA03F Pro David Jun for a decent-enough price. The car was a little rough, but it seemed to be all there. However, I didn't need another touring car, now did I? But a dedicated drift car would be nice! So a little money was exchanged, and a few days later this showed up at my doorstep: Like I said, it's a little rough. The previous owner has cut off the front bumper, for some reason, and did some smoothing on the front gearbox. One thing that the previous owner also did was to hollow out the unused rear gearbox section, probably for electronics. I actually don't mind that, as I was planning to do that anyway, and it's done quite neatly. I'm not sure if the neon-yellow stabilzer bars are stock, but I suppose I could always get other ones, or strip the coating off of them if they start annoying me. It has a front one-way, and a rear ball diff. Right, time to start digging in! First things first, removing the body posts. It came with a REALLY short set of front body posts, and a set of normal-length front body posts on the rear. This meant that in order to fit the Skyline body I have planned for it, I need different body posts. @Fuijo had a set of bent-backwards body posts left over from his TB01, and I wanted to see if they fit. Which they do, but they're on inside-out. The little square nub is supposed to slot into the rear shock tower. Which it doesn't, since it faces the other way. Fine with me, this also works, and with all the material hitting the plastic shock tower it seems snug enough. Time will tell, but I suppose this works for now. (Also note the purple hardware used to mount the shocks. Ugh!) Since I don't have the manual for the car (yet), I'm a little apprehensive about tearing the car apart. So I wanted to focus on placing the electronics first. Since it's a drift car on a small track, it won't need a lot of power. - Savöx servo (this type basically goes into every car I have) - Hobbywing QuicRun 1060WP ESC - OrangeRX GR300 receiver - Tamiya Torque Tuned motor (because I had one. I also have a Sport Tuned if the TT turns out to lack the power needed) - 4500 mAh shorty 2S lipo. Why a shorty? Well, I couldn't fit a square lipo pack in the stock battery 'box'. So I got creative: Yup, that fits between the servo and the rear bulkhead! (Note the spacers moving the servo forward). Now, how to strap the battery in.... I don't have the room to build a release mechanism, and tape is just not very elegant.. Velcro works, but since the chassis has all these cutouts you don't have a lot of surface area to stick velcro to. But what about a small styrene place, screwed in through the holes left by the original battery box? I bought some carbon-fiber wrap today. I figured this would look better than the stark white styrene on an otherwise black chassis. On this plate I then stuck some velcro tape, and the same along the bottom of the battery. Works really well, and fits neatly under the belt. Next time we'll focus on placing the ESC and receiver, and sorting out the mess of wiring. After that I'd like to peek inside the gearboxes. As far as I can tell you can take both ends of the car off without disturbing the two CF plates holding them together, and I'd like to see what shape everything is in.
  7. I've just bought a TA03F David Jun Special edition for (what I reckon to be) a rather nice price. One caveat; it doesn't come with a manual. Tamiya has the manual for the 'regular' TA03F Pro as a pdf, but the DJSE seems to be slightly different in some regards, and it'd be nice to have the correct manual for the car. Does anyone have this manual, either digitally or on paper? Thanks!
  8. This is a first, because I seldom come across an item that is unobtanium. I have 2 of these NIP and thought I would share with others in need. I have seen them fetch crazy prices on eBay and I am not looking to put anyone out. So how does $25 shipped in Continental US sound. If you are abroad, well I will need to add for shipping.
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