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Found 185 results

  1. Another day, another skillset to tackle... Where wheels and suspension arms and gears are best created with CAD software, the other end of the 3D spectrum is represented by digital sculpting programs for those who want to create organic, non-mechanical subjects using an artistic approach. The choice for those committed to sculpting is ZBrush. Are there ways of using scanning tech to acquire 3D data? Yes, but specifically for capturing living subjects, the choices become very narrow and harder to come by as explained here. Capturing/scanning 3D data without ANY sculpting knowledge means being locked into that one pose until more $$$$ gets ponied up for additional scans. Using some reference photos and coaching from "likeness sculpting" YouTube videos, a self-portrait sculpt gets finished in ZBrush... Sculpt is exported as an STL mesh and brought into the ChiTuBox slicing software (Free download & bundled with the $250 Elegoo Mars 3D printer). For this particular model, there weren't any egregious overhangs that warranted generating supports. YMMV. The model is double-checked to print at a target 1:10th scale. If it wasn't already done in ZBrush, ChiTuBox v1.5.0 offers another opportunity to hollow out the model by specifying the wall thickness. The CBDDLP file generated by ChiTuBox contains all the sliced image data along with resin exposure time info. All that's left is to feed this into the Elegoo Mars via USB thumb drive and tap the touchscreen Print button. This printer's touchscreen makes a Pause button available where it'll even raise the platform out of the resin to visually confirm and double-check the progress. Tap the screen and the printer continues back on the same spot it left off. Nice touch not found on my previous resin printers. All of 24 cents worth of resin used, the high resolution print finishes in three and a half hours. Remove it from the platform, quick rinse in an isopropyl tub, and it's off to the UV tanning bed for 10 minutes. As stated in another thread, I've devoted this resin vat to holding black resin. Once additional vats are available, I'll use those extras to hold Elegoo's grey, clear, and skin-colored formulations. For figurines, painting on black resin should make the colors pop more. The Elegoo Mars shares the exact same resin vat dimensions with the Anycubic Photon. This will allow users from both sides to jump brands or even find this market large enough where third-parties start offering replacements (eBay has vats listed for ~$35) Note how the eyeglasses printed perfectly. 'Nuff detail for ya? The main downside to a fresh black resin print is the difficulty in capturing the sculpted details despite using a macro lens and a light tent. Earlier red resin prints from years back posed in the driver's seat of the M-04L. Future iterations might involve tweaking the sculpt to evoke the sense of being reclined in a seat with arms reaching toward a steering wheel. This was not possible on the red resin printer as it was configured for a super-tight build envelope. On the Elegoo Mars? Plenty of build platform space to include the driver's seat headrest, steering wheel and even the instrument cluster - all in a single printed object. Still plenty more additional tasks to finish in this vein... sculpt a helmeted version for the F1 F201 chassis... review a bunch of YouTube videos on painting/airbrushing techniques with acrylic... Exercise that sculpting muscle and the world opens up to sooo many possibilities -- take your own creation and alter it at your whim... road-raging Xenomorph Wild-Willy substitute behind the wheel flipping the bird? Do it. Do it NOW!
  2. Completion of this project has been almost a decade in the making... Commercial-level high-rez resin 3D printers had been sitting beyond $200,000 for all of the nineties and even when smaller desktop units dropped below $20k by 2011, their build envelope was only large enough to cram 5 or 6 custom ring designs into... IOW, not terribly applicable for 1:10th scale modeling. Jewelry casting resin was $175 a liter. Disruptors came on the scene with their $2500 resin printers. In 2012, this was a downright bargain compared to my first printer at $15k. Resin was "less" costly at $100/liter. Reasonable expense for paying clients, but remains extravagant for hobby tinkering -- and the build envelope stayed minuscule at 5.7 x 3.2 cm. The only way to fit a standard on-road 26mm wheel into this space is to orient it upright. I attempted this very exercise around 2014 but the end-result wasn't worth posting here. Problem? Vertical print position pooled and caused a resin imbalance. The build-envelope constraint permitted no other alternative attempts. The wildly off-balance wheel was only good for shelf display. 2019 is the next watershed year where resin 3D printers have started tickling the $200 milestone. How'd they achieve this? By utilizing super-inexpensive components from the cellphone industry -- deploying a relatively cheap 2k-resolution smartphone screen rather than building a 3D printer around a $1000 theatre projector makes all the difference in final cost. All the buzz became loud enough to take notice. At $200, there are indeed some cheap resin printers cost-wise but also cheap in quality; questionable design features abound. Experience proved invaluable in identifying features to avoid. The standout winner worthy of a spot in the stable is the Elegoo Mars at $250. Jaw-dropping price point no matter how you cut it. Tons to like: Stretched-film release design similar to my $15k printer suggesting low-maintenance workhorse reliability/repeatability. Superb Z-axis rigidity using a linear-rail like design. A wobbly Z-axis arm can cause disastrous banding in the print. User-replaceable critical components as demonstrated by their own instructional YouTube videos. Crack the masking screen? $40-ish replacement makes things right. Considerable leap in the build envelope. The Elegoo is able to print what fits within 11.9cm x 6.8cm (x 15.5cm height) and still maintains a 50-micron resolution. Color touch-screen control. Files read off a thumb drive. Prior resin printers mandated tethering to a dedicated computer to drive the projector. (itself limited to a bulb lifespan) After running a few calibration tests (largely unnecessary and for my own satisfaction), it was time to address my long awaited project. 26mm width BMW Style 35 wheel fitted to a Tamiya hex hub. Elegoo Mars 3D printer. Quickly Glowforged a pedestal storage box for it and made sure there was resin on-hand. One liter of their resin is just $45. Third-party resins can be used as long as they're formulated for these kinds of masked-SLA printers. Laser SLA like Formlabs and Moai require different resin formulations. Still, not many are gonna beat $45/liter! The free support & slicing ChiTuBox software has quite a bit of nice features coming from this veteran resin jockey. The ways to identify & edit supports for undercuts or floating islands is praiseworthy. One nit is that there's no apparent publicly centralized data pot for exposure times for Elegoo resins. Possibly walled off in their Facebook page. The product box only provides a range -- thus my initial tests. Small-object test prints suggested that my settings for Elegoo Black Resin be 60 seconds for the first 5-6 layers and all subsequent layers can be at 6-seconds exposure. As shown here, the represented build platform has plenty of space to accommodate an on-road wheel. For reasons outside the scope of this hobby forum, a flat lay-down positioning of the wheel isn't necessarily the most recommended, but I've printed using two alternate ways and got away with successful prints. ChiTuBox goes as far as asking how much I paid for this batch of resin and can calculate the projected volume of resin used and total cost of parts put on the build platform. Let me do the math for you.. a liter of resin ought to yield around 66 Tamiya wheels. Toss the sliced file onto a USB thumb drive and feed it to the printer. Here's the angled & supported version... What kind of detail does 50-micron yield? Hex heads on the lug bolts resolved with a faithfully reproduced dimple at the center of every one! Here 'tis mounted to the M-04L chassis... spins just as nicely as the Tamiya-made wheels. No off-balance issues. Giving the back part of the rim a squeeze shows that it takes nearly DOUBLE the effort over Tamiya's ABS plastic to start deforming. At roughly 1mm resin wall thickness, the toughness observed so far suggests it would fare no worse than manufactured wheels. Once I get my hands on more resin vats, I'll dedicate each one to their own resin making for super-quick printing material changes... black, grey, white, translucent, etc Now all the things that normally get scuffed up (side mirrors, body posts) can be easily and affordably re-grown on the high-res 3D printer. Onto the possibilities of fabricating all the details I only dreamt of decades ago... windshield wipers, light buckets, suspension arms, action cam mount...
  3. for sale a tg10 mk1 tamiya nsx raybrig nitro. comes with box and radio controller. it ran twice, and you can see the condition under the chassis. i will ship worldwide at buyers expense. i could trade with a vintage tamiya hornet (58045) but NIB, and i will throw the extra cash if someone has one and is interested 155 euro excluding shipping (from Cyprus - Europe)
  4. An interesting chassis announced recently by Tamiya: the Lunch Box Mini on the SW-01 chassis. The link is Tamiyablog's; the chassis was also mentioned earlier on this site by TC's Mokei Kagaku, and on his Facebook page. From Tamiyablog: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Suggested retail price in Japan: approx. ¥ 10600 Expected release date in Japan: July 2019 ★ Condensed various mechanisms in a compact new design chassis that fits in both hands of adults ★ Uses an upper arm that works in conjunction with the steering wheel. Reduce the roll of the body at the time of cornering, reduce the fall. ★ The chassis is a gear drive 4WD that transmits the power of the motor located in the center to the front and rear wheels with a gear. ★ The body reproduces the popular Lunch Box in polycarbonate. Adoption of magnet type one-touch body mount makes it easy to attach and remove the body. ★ It can run with four AA batteries. ★ Upgrade to the 4WS (four-wheel steering) specification is possible simply by installing the “Upper Connect Bar (provisional name)” scheduled to be released as an optional part. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ As part of the "Star Unit" line, it is likely going to be quite a basic chassis, yet the technical details and the involvement of some sort of Lunch Box might make it intriguing...
  5. Vintage, near mint condition Tamiya QD cars; - Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI WRC 46306 - Peugeot 206 WRC 46305 Was clearing out my attic and found these beauty's, originally bought them in 2000 on release for my then 2 year old son, opened once as i had to try these babys out and then put into storage, it is now 2019 as they were forgotten, life gets busy sometimes. £350 for both & offers
  6. Well after starting this build nearly 3 months ago Grasshopper #2 is finally finished. Waiting for parts to arrive is a killer! After perusing the interweb looking at other Hoppers I got a few ideas, along with seeing what not to do. My design brief to myself was to make it look different to anything else and try and make it look good while using the original stripes, oh and add a few hop-up parts in the process. I think I have almost nailed it, I'm pretty happy with the way it has turned out anyway. It now features a bunch of aftermarket parts (over night from Japan. Sheesh I wish!) which include coil over oil shocks all round, aluminium front suspension arms & bash plate, carbon reinforced uprights, full ball bearing set and aluminium wheel outers which look really nice. Also fitted are some very nice aluminium side nudge bars, gearbox oil filler cap & pinion cover/heatsink all from T4works. It still retains the little 380 motor so shes not fast but is totally controllable. Took it out for it's first run last night at the Manawatu Indoor RC Car Club meeting and she ran good. Had a couple of small teething issues to sort, the battery cover on the bottom fell off and dragged the battery on the floor and the front suspension had a couple of screws come loose. Not sure if that is because I failed to check them before assembly or if it means they are not up to the punishment, time will tell I guess. Picked up a few scuffs already but that's ok, just proof that it's been used and not a shelf queen. A nice addition to the collection which is growing.
  7. Hi all, New to builds, having had my Dad make me a Super Blackfoot as a kid. My cousin had a LB, and I always loved how mental it was to drive😂 My missus bought me one as a gift back in February and having put it all together, and immediately crashing it, I decided I wanted to look at making it fun but better to drive. To date I’ve installed a Tamiya Sports Tuned motor, metal bearings, and this evening I’ve installed oil filled shocks. Having just taken it out, it seems to sit better under load. I will say it pulls a touch to the left, and I’m almost certain that the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. So my questions are the following: How can I make the car better than stock beyond those adjustments? Should I have replaced the pinion with the motor upgrade? Foam in the tyres or not bother? What’s the best battery setup to choose? Where can I get a transmission strut brace in the UK, as I don’t want to do the 5th shock mod? Sanding down the damage on the body for re-spraying, what’s the best process? Sorry, lots of questions but I’m very new to this. Kind Regards, Carl
  8. As some of you know I am collection the 4WD buggies from my youth.From Boomerang to Terra Scorcher. Well at least I was till this popped up locally on GumTree for a good price. Told myself I was buying no more buggies till I had the ones I have finished. You know that lie we tell ourselves and the boss. It came with a box instructions and loads of bits and bobs, in full running order as it was raced. Ok so its not got the right wheels, or tires, the body is BRUSH painted inside and OUT!!!!!!! badly round the decals. BUT it was only £60 and came with Hi Caps and 2 Tamtec cars with it. The Tamtecs are already with a new owner, the wheels, original blue shocks and near bald tires and body are on their way and the money from the Tamtech's paid for for the car and the bits so its basically free.....This hobby pays for its self!!!!!! OH the lies we tell ourselves and our other half's. NO MORE until I have finished all the work on the ones I have. UNTIL that MUST have bargain comes up cause you secretly really fancy a (oh lets be honest anything Tamiya that looks good - **** thats just about most of the back catalogue!!!!!) It started with- I do LOVE the look of the MadCap and the Astute so if they ever came up at the right money.....And a Nissan King CAB, oh and a monster beetle, a lunch box (OK all the monster trucks really) maybe a FROG or a FOX as well BUT only at the right price.......honest!! **** who invented eBay you have a lot to answer for. SO what have you bought cause you found it at the right price rather than went looking specifically for it. Show us how you found it and how it finished up (basher or display)
  9. I have just picked up an old Fighter Buggy RX (Correct me if I am wrong!) from a boot sale. Not bad for £3 including an Ansmann quick charger and 2 batteries! I'm going to restore this one as a runner for my 8 year old - should be a good buggy to start with. It has electrics and it all appears to work ok. The main issues it has are a broken rear shock mount and the rear tyres are completely shot.
  10. Built entirely from Tamiya T3-01 Dancing Rider parts, my alternate build uses two sets. Even his head and eye pieces are directly out of the Tamiya T3 kit. Cog the Dog has 5 servos and a 6 channel receiver in his nose. An Adafruit micro gimbal moves the head, with left/right tied to the hip servo. 3 mixes coordinate arms and hip for four-wheeled leaning. A Traxxas 370, full bearings and an aluminum Hot Racing ball differential puts Cog at 25 mph. Please enjoy a little movie about Cog, an ongoing project that has taken many forms. The most successful one so far, unsurprisingly, is entirely Tamiya. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15Cv7sK0OL81QszjAD4fz_f8XaIIVgBop/view?usp=drivesdk
  11. So I have bought myself a well used (I admit this may be a bit of an understatement) Gravel Hound from everyone's favourite on-line bidding site. As is often the way I was looking for a new Tamiya project (snappily codenamed the Christmas/Birthday money project) and I happened to stumble upon this little fella. I wasn't looking for anything in particular just something new and as I haven't owned anything on the DF-02 chasis before I decided to take a punt as the price didn't seem to bad. To be fair to the seller he was upfront and honest with his photos and description - "very used RC car in semi working order with plenty of wear due to age and use" And it's hard to argue with that....................... Freshly out of the box and bubble-wrap.... It has certainly been enjoyed!
  12. Grastens Builds the Tamiya Bruiser (58519) The Kit Builder’s Build In the midst of the assembly of my Ferrari 312T3, the revival of my original Lancia Rally, and the planning and acquisition of another Tamiya-centric project, lumbered: It has been quite an outburst of RC-related activity lately, which is as sure a sign as any that I am dealing with some serious personal issues; burying myself in projects like this might be the least-destructive way to cope with them. I have never had the luxury of three new kit builds on the go, and the Bruiser will be by far the largest and most involved of them. Those concerns aside, I can point to the Tamiya Bruiser in my possession and say that this is a long-held dream of mine, finally realized! Finding a (Long-Winded) Dream My first Tamiya was a Toyota GT-One on the F103RS. It was a simple chassis that proved to be a good rookie car, if a bit difficult to find the ideal surface for it. I had always been interested in radio-controlled items and cars, so RC cars were a logical culmination. That car felt like a lifelong dream realized; playing video games was much more economically-feasible, and I had neither the money nor the support to treat radio-controlled cars as a real hobby. My childhood aspirations made do with the occasional cheap remote-controlled contraption, to be pitched when it broke after its inevitably-underwhelming performance. I could hardly complain, for I had the essentials covered in life, but I still fantasized about a true hobby-grade radio-controlled machine. Tamiya was even making the cars I saw in my video games – from Gran Turismo to 1:10 scale came the Castrol Celica ST205, the Calsonic Nissan Primera, the Castrol Mugen NSX – and the Toyota GT-One – all by the same company that produced the best static model I had built to that time (another story itself). My involvement in the hobby changed forever when I acquired a Buggy Champ as my second car; with it, I discovered the comparative freedom of off-road running, and nearly all of my acquisitions since have been all-terrain chassis. Along the way, I had been building my collection toward increasing mechanical complexity. I had always been interested in the mechanical aspect of machinery, and around the same time I purchased my Avante Black Special – then the most complicated build I would undertake – Tamiya re-released the Bruiser. It did not matter that I was not alive when the original Bruiser (or Avante, even) was available, for the concept of an all-metal, all-terrain truck with an actual shifting transmission was something that captured my imagination. At the time, I had saved up much of everything I had to acquire that Avante, but despite my good fortune that day, I still ended up wanting a Bruiser. If I were really increasing the mechanical complexity of my collection, the Bruiser seemed like a logical step, in the right direction, especially after the Avante. Instead, time and money (but mostly money) saw me take a different path with my cars, my desires for new challenges manifesting themselves in bodywork as opposed to chassis. I found out that the Avante was not what I envisioned; it had proven expensive to repair and limited in talent. Though Tamiya’s higher-end offerings certainly had my interest whenever they arrived, I probably never really wanted them as each new model slipped away without any further effort from me to acquire one. The Bruiser never totally left my consciousness, though. Eventually, I found that I was running out of spaces to run buggy-type off-road cars, and I was still intrigued by the sophistication of the 3-speed truck, especially as I learned more about automotive engineering. With classic models like the original 4 x 4 Hilux and Blazing Blazer reaching used-1:1-car prices, the Bruiser was the only affordable model until the Mountaineer re-emerged as the Mountain Rider. Even then, they were out of my grasp. It should be noted that the Tamiya Hilux High-Lift was also on the shelf that day at the hobby shop, yet neither that nor the Tundra nor the F-350 seemed to catch my imagination the way the Bruiser did. I passed it over completely. Fulfilling a (Long-Winded) Dream “I probably never really wanted them as each new model slipped away without any further effort from me to acquire one.” It was a trip to my local hobby shop for paints to complete my Ferrari 312T3 build when I finally decided I wanted a Bruiser, once and for all. It was likely triggered by the astonishing stock of Tamiya re-release models in the store: there – in the year 2019 – were new-in-box examples of the Novafox, Bigwig, Blackfoot, Egress(!), Monster Beetle, and a Frog, perched high on a shelf behind the sales counter. Clearly, the employees there had an appreciation for classic Tamiyas, which was encouraging. Pure curiosity prompted me to ask about their prices. I was astonished to realize that this particular shop had nearly closed the gap to online retailers, and every model there was competitively priced – I could have had an Egress for under $500 CAD after taxes! But then I asked the shop owner: “Do you still have the Bruiser in stock?” I saw one long ago, in another visit, and asked in the off-chance that maybe it was still kicking around. I never saw too many visitors in the shop, and the ones that were there either bought Redcats, Gundam models, or paints. “No,” he started, as my reasonable being sighed in relief, “but we can order one. You fill out a form, and we can have it in 48 hours.” My mind started racing, leaving my reasonable being in the dust. There’s no way I could… No way I should… If I have to ask… “How much would it be?” His reply shocked me. They had closed the gap – no, they had opened one up of their own! Even more shocking was learning that the upcoming re-re-release of the Mountaineer/Mountain Rider would be more expensive through the shop’s distributor, by $100 CAD, and not on pre-order. I had believed the Bruiser to be more complex somehow than its sibling, but this was completely secondary to the fact that a metal Tamiya 3-speed was now within reach! I would need to stretch, but within reach! “… I’ll think about it,” I said weakly, and continued searching for paints. I thought about it, all right, and a week or so was all I needed to clarify more than six years of dreaming and a lifetime passion for mechanical objects that begged me to make it happen. It felt like a lifetime had led me to that store the following week, where I sought out the shop owner, looked him in the eye, and said: “I want to order a Bruiser. Give me the form, please.” I was nervous. Last time I was there, I was talking myself out of it by telling the shop owner about my Ferrari 312T3, and laughing that I needed to finish that before thinking about any new projects. I knew I would need to work hard to get that money back, particularly as unlike the 312T3, the Bruiser had been unplanned just a month ago. Yet it felt like I had been preparing for it for much of my life, and all my extracurricular interests had readied me for this moment. Even stranger was that the Hilux High-Lift that I was previously totally uninterested in was still there. It was going for even less than the Egress, and for that kind of money I could have it finished with full electronics – but no, I wanted a Bruiser! As if to firmly put my cards on the table: “I’ll pay for it in full.” What am I doing?! The shop owner started to smile. That definitely lifted his spirits, too! The trip home was an odd mix of elation and fear: I needed a third project like I needed to get hit by a truck, let alone a big, expensive truck that could be worth more than everything I was working on to that point. In my heart, though, I knew I made the right decision, and celebrated my ability to enjoy my hobby in a way I have never done previously. The rest is a short story: having ordered it on a Friday, it arrived on the Monday, and by Tuesday – stopping to retrieve it from the shop during my regular errands – I had it in my hands. First Impressions Well, I had it in my arms, anyway: this box was massive! I had no idea just how large it was until I brought it home, and realized it was almost the width of the doorways in the house! When viewing box art for a kit online, it is easy to forget that the image is nearly the size of the box itself (though not true for some new releases with the “post-box-style” box front). In the case of the Bruiser, that means a large image indeed, and fine details really jump out at the viewer when looking at a box like this in person – this was the impression I was getting. One side of the box: Picture quality at this point was not great, mostly because I did not have a lot of time to take them before I had to find a place for it and continue on with my day. I have yet to even open the box! However, I can at least see what the chassis might look like when assembled: And in detail: The gearbox, which is likely the most compelling feature of this truck, gets another detail on the side, in addition to the inlaid image on the front: And then I had to set it aside. I can only wait so long, though! Planning the Build If you managed to read my lengthy story about how I got to wanting and finding a Bruiser, you would understand why I want to savour this build. I really wish I could go for the speed record, but I anticipate I will be putting in assemblies in a piecemeal fashion. Unlike previous projects, I do have all my supplies purchased at this preliminary stage, from electronics to paint to accessories. Hence, if deliveries are smooth, I should be able to make good time while still enjoying this build. Those electronics will consist of a Futaba 4YWD Attack 2.4 GHz radio and two 6-kg generic waterproof metal gear servos – which will be replaced by a Traxxas 2056 and a Futaba S3003 in the odd event that I fit servos in the build before the intended units arrive, or if their performance is unsatisfactory. I will look to fit one of my Tamiya TBLE-02S units but will soon have the luxury of an Axial AE-5L ESC with LED output. That will allow me to fit at least headlights and taillights immediately, though I had intended it for another build… That being said, I did read on this forum somewhere that one should not skimp on electronics for a Bruiser, and I am inclined to agree! That Axial ESC might make its way into the truck yet. I have yet to see a Tamiya 3-speed sporting a battery under 4 000 mAh capacity, and presently have no working batteries of that specification (maximum 3 000 mAh, and well-used), so it looks like there is in fact one more thing I need. I could get a proper-capacity battery while ordering another Axial ESC, I suppose! As was the case with my Lancia 037 4WD-H, I intend to find a moderate stand between scale realism and the model’s radio-controlled nature. While I am interested in adding things like door panels and a driver figure to the interior, a large part of the Bruiser’s appeal to me is its realism in its drivetrain, so I will be content to run it with a few concessions to scale presence as opposed to all-out authenticity. Besides, the latter would require more LEDs and the MFC-02… My Lancia 037 4WD-H has also taught me that too much complexity is possible in a model, so the emphasis will be on producing a running vehicle, though one with some attention paid to aesthetics. It is still not enough to convince me that I should use Stealth body mounts (it’s an RC car, and RC cars use body posts and clips – I can live with that), but enough for me to at least attempt to produce a neat paint job – the static modeller in me is still alive somewhere! Since I cannot afford a used vehicle, and therefore by association a classic Hilux 4 x 4, I have elected to pay tribute to it with a Czech-made custom step-side rear bed. Doing so means I will be unable to use the bed topper that is standard in the Bruiser kit, and I will need to do some drilling and cutting for this custom bed to fit the chassis. Roll bar options for the 122 mm width of the rear bed seem to be limited – thankfully, I have an assortment of styrene tubes and rods on the way, which could enable me to build one from scratch. As before, I will be adding a driver figure and hopefully some simple styrene cuts serving as door panels. I am seriously entertaining adding a passenger – I was previously intrigued by the possibility of reworking a resin figure kit into a seated passenger, but the expense and detail are too high for the purpose I have in mind. As such, any passenger will almost certainly be a reworked 4 x 4 driver figure – though the extent of the “rework” remains to be seen… The chassis will be stock – having a Bruiser is enough of a novelty for me to be happy with its stock performance for a little while. If I feel the need to upgrade, chances are I would find a higher-turn brushed motor for it first, and even then, that might suffice. Paint is at this point going to be mainly TS-43 Racing Green. If I elect for graphic accents, I will add stripes in TS-26 Pure White and TS-8 Italian Red, as an homage to my previous Avante Black Special and Astute hybrid – I had forgotten how popular those designs were when they made their debuts and feel that this combination could work on a truck like this. Even if it does not, it works for me! The Last Word – for Now Going through literature, accounts, and reviews of the Bruiser, as well as the depth and breadth of custom projects involving the model, has made me realize that I know precious little about trucks and their culture. Knowledge at this point might be dangerous, since it could compel me to spend even more money on accessories (how about that K5 Blazer shell from RC4WD?!), but anything I can learn about pickup trucks, show trucks, mud/bog racing trucks, and any combination thereof will be interesting to me. It feels a world removed from my regular research on rally racers, sports prototypes, and other genres, and it gives me something else to look forward to as I start this exciting RC adventure. “Yes, [I’m] really in Hog Heaven [now that I] own a Bruiser!” – Tamiya promotional spot, c. 1985
  13. Hello all I'm trying to locate some original Tamiya 6V 4000MaH batteries as used in the Blazer, preferably boxed. Please let me know if you have any and are willing to sell (let me know how much you want for them) - thanks Rich
  14. Dear racers, builders and collectors To BEC or not to BEC... THAT is the question... :/ I have recently joined your wonderful club, mainly because I fell in love with Tamiya and all the wonders and joys of RC's again. So, like many I had the Grasshopper as a kid and nostalgia made me reinvest in the reissued version which was a great joy to build as well as owning it once more. Since that time, I've bought the HotShot, Neo Fighter and a few others. The latest is Monster Beetle, however, since it's been a while since I built one again, I noticed my Carson's Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch 2.4G's (this is the one Carson Reflex-Wheel-Ultimate) has a BEC that is a bit hard to find these days and anywhere I find it costs a bundle not to mention the shipping costs is astronomical. I need one so I may bind the Monster Beetle to my Remote Controller, I have the HotShot, Neo Fighter to bind perfectly, but I am now looking for another BEC to put into the Monster Beetle and maybe even upgrade my Grasshopper for the same reason. I have found these, which I don't know will bind with my Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch Remote Controller: Carson 500501533 - Reflex Wheel Receiver PRO 3, 2.4 GHz Press for Info and this one Carson 500501536 - empfangerrefle xwheel Pro3, 2.4 GHz V.2 Press for Info My question and hope here is to have someone explain to me if this is a possibility that my controller will bind with these two or do I explicitly need the one that came with the controller like this one (Sorry no image only description), or can I simply buy any of the above mentioned alternatives and they will bind with the remote controller without problems? I sure hope you guys might have an answer to this, it's a little frustrating as I'm still not entirely sure how these things work, I had tons of problems with brushless non-brushless Tamiya ESC, I couldn't figure out the differences and it didn't work... I'm sure I did something wrong, heck it took me three hours to put the Grasshopper's rubber wheels together... when I was a kid, I did it in 20min... I don't know what that means, but let's just leave it at that... I hope you guys can help me cause I'm at a loss here, I wish to buy it via Amazon, if possible, but since they don't have the one I use exactly I was hoping I might be able to use one of these. Here is the manual for the Controller from Carson I use for the RC's I have. User Manual for the Carson Reflex Wheel Ultimate Touch The one place I found that might be okay but I don't know them, never ordered from them is this one: The Alternative however, the shipping is kind of a stab in the feelers, but, if this is the only place I can get it, or Tamico, then I guess I have to buy it... but please let me know if I can use those from amazon. Thanks a lot guys PS. Sorry guys for some reason, it posted my topic twice...
  15. A New Build! It has been a long time coming, but it is now time for a build thread as I tackle the: I have waited a long time for this model, cutting back in other areas of my finances to keep the pre-order I applied for a long time ago. Naturally, then, I am beyond excited to have an example in my hands. Such is my excitement that I can write an incredibly boring piece about my ruminations of both the Lancia 037 and Tamiya's equivalents On the Lancia 037, 58040, 58278, and 58654 The Lancia 037 is a vehicle that holds a special place in my heart. On the face of it, the 037 is a mid-engine rally machine, a sportscar that can tackle rough roads. It does so with a unique style and flair, with its Italian styling and heritage rooted in the country that produces some of the most soul-stirring automobiles ever made. Perhaps Tamiya did not think of this when they first produced a version of the 037, marketed as the Lancia Rally. As we know, this was an odd contraption, capturing the body’s lines perfectly while parking it on top of quite an awkward-looking chassis. Handling depended on who you ask and what motor you left in there, but the superb shell was difficult to preserve under less-than-careful driving. Today, we remember Lancia’s 037 as the last rear-wheel drive car to win the World Rally Championship for Makes, defeating the nascent Audi Quattro and its four-wheel drive, with supercharging, to paraphrase 037 pilot Markku Alen. We remember it as a beautiful little racer stuck somewhere between the radical Stratos and the terrifying Delta S4, not as accomplished as its angular predecessor and not as memorably intimidating as its successor. It never even had a name outside of its project number. We remember Tamiya’s Lancia Rally quite differently, it seems, and its legacy is a little more divisive. Many bemoan its mediocre handling, fragile shell, and unusual proportions, while others praise its wonderfully detailed body, genuine off-road capability, and unusual proportions. In 2001, Tamiya addressed the non-scale appearance of the original Lancia Rally in a re-release. Now known as the Lancia 037 Rally as on the box, this offering kept the superb shell, added some more detail parts, and placed it on a much more proportionally-correct touring car chassis. While this version lost much of the off-road ability of the original, especially as the special TA-03R-S chassis was a belt-driven one, it definitely looked more serious – even if an oversized bumper was issued with the re-release, like the original’s massive bush guard… 17 years later, and Tamiya has re-released the re-release. The proportionally-correct Lancia 037 Rally has made a reappearance, this time on a shaft-driven TA-02S chassis. The excellent shell and detail parts return, and so does a large snow plow bumper! The last-named still works well to avoid crash damage like that which the great Henri Toivonen encountered with his Lancia… Grastens and Tamiya's Lancias It was through the original-style Lancia Rally that the 037 made its way into my collection. I fell in love with it for its genuine off-road capability – like the Subaru Brat and Tamiya Frog that shared its chassis design – and its lovely detailed body shell. With the swoopy Martini stripes and the big rally spotlights sitting atop an aggressively jacked-up chassis, it looked like it was from outer space. The re-release of the Frog and Subaru Brat also meant that parts were readily available, as were upgrades that improved the original’s driving characteristics. A fast car that can run on rough roads, with easy maintenance and good parts support… It was the rally car I had dreamed of! This was in 2014, which was well after the first re-release 037 was discontinued - to say nothing of the original! At the time, I figured I would never be able to acquire a re-release, and for some time did not want to. The original had that useful ground clearance and actual rear-wheel drive, two traits that endeared it to me over the four-wheel drive touring car-based iteration. Yet by 2017, my Lancia was no longer in running condition, and my enthusiasm for the hobby as a whole had diminished. I had to sell off much of my equipment to fund life, among them my Lancia's bodywork. By reigniting my passion for radio-controlled cars, the latest 037 saved my hobby career. Much of my enthusiasm came from seeing the venerable Lancia being given the re-release treatment, from the new box to the updated photos. Some of it came from the fact that the new chassis for the car was a sealed shaft-driven type, which I figured would be much better for the off-road running I wanted to tackle with such a car. Even limited experience with a belt-driven TA-04 was enough for me to harbour doubts about a belt-driven machine in those conditions. Most importantly, it was a car I had come to adore, emerging at a price well below my expectations for such a fantastic little machine. It simply got me excited again. I placed my pre-order, held course, and finally saw it delivered to my country, where it was dispatched quickly. First Impressions Many people have reservations about the smaller boxes and the unattractive packaging of the re-releases compared to the blister packs of the original models, but I for one love the subsequent savings on shipping. The box was small and sleek: The offsets look off in this box schematic, but consistent with the box art. Many 037s did have their wheels well tucked into the arches. What intrigues me more is the listed wheelbase of 236 mm; I had committed the figure of 237 mm long enough for me to find this particular detail odd, however inconsequential: Was this a detail on the first re-release's box? FCA was not around back then, but Lancia and Martini sure were: The packing is efficient and compact. I had difficulty replicating it following my examination of the contents: And here is the first layer of parts from the box: The second layer I extracted had many of the plastic chassis parts and some body detail pieces: Instructions, decals, and metal hardware can be found near or at the bottom: The decal sheet looks identical to the earlier re-release's, but I had never seen that before and was intrigued by the dashboard decals for the cockpit set at first: The story of me selling my original Lancia Rally shell has an important catch: I sold the one I finished, but had a spare body set. Initially keeping it for spares - I anticipated the worst for what was my most frequent runner - I dug it out to reaffirm everything I knew about the differences between the original and re-release bodies: I assume it is normal for the original shell to have a slightly more yellow plastic The enthusiasm generated by this new Lancia has inspired me to finish my original one; such is the power of this special model. Planning the Build I will likely be building this car up out of sequence, as I have an international order of ball bearings on the way and not enough spares to outfit the entire car. I will be sure to outline steps I follow for specific parts and their places in the manual. The same delay applies to light sets; however I also anticipate that acquiring paint and having good painting conditions will be difficult. Hence, the bodywork may only occur much later. I will be provisioning supplies to finish two bodies while I sort out my original Lancia Rally. It might receive some coverage in this build, but the focus will be on the re-release. Accordingly, I intend to finish the original in box-art Martini Racing livery. This leaves the re-release open to some customization. As for that customization: lots of lovely paint schemes exist for this car, but without custom printing I will either be repeating the box-art Martini livery, piecing together decals for a 1986 Bastos-Texaco racer, finishing up Markku Alen's 1985 Portugal test car, or finally getting Adobe Illustrator and commissioning a printer for a nice set of Jolly Club/Totip decals, courtesy of TamiyaClub's own firefoxussr If I have the time and resources, I have several other liveries from the 1983 season in mind, which I may detail later if they come up as an option. I selected 1983 as I do not feel like parting with the rear bumper (Evo.2 Lancia 037s appeared from 1984 onward, which omitted the rear bumper for practicality). Resources permitting, I also hope to construct an engine bay and roll cage for the model, the first real scratch-building project I will undertake! I hope I can exercise enough restraint to get those finished before abandoning it all to thrash the finished car... The Last Word - For Now If you have read this far: congratulations, and thank you for taking the time to read my thoughts If not: I can hardly blame you. All you need to know is that I am really excited for this model! In any case, I look forward to commencing the build!
  16. Hi everyone! I've seen that some people were struggling with mixing body color paint for Tamiya's Hyundai i20 bodyshell. I've just ordered one from Gmarket and while waiting for it to arrive I am considering some painting options. I'd like to stick with Hyundai's livery. I've been searching for appropriate body color because I don't have any option to mix colors as Tamiya recommending in body's manual. I stumbled upon a Tamiya PS-32 (corsa grey) and I'm curious about how does it look like in real life. I found some photos on the Internet but every one is different. Sometimes this corsa grey color is kinda blueish, sometimes it's greenish. Does anyone used PS-32 before and could help me to decide? This is the easiest option (for now) to paint body color but I'd like to hear some input from more experienced Tamiya PS paints users Thank you!
  17. I am not sure how much excitement there may be for this new car, but I see a whole lot of possibilities for the shell: Any takers for this one? The 1:1 Citroen 2CV was the basis for a lot of, uh, inspired works: While the Tamiya release is quite likely to be a polycarbonate-bodied version, I am wondering if anybody else might be inspired by its appearance in the new releases list. Edit: Now paging @JennyMo and @IBIFTKH:
  18. Evening Some of you may remember my FF01 speed run car I've been slowly building. It's not quite finished although the finish line is certainly in sight now, so I thought it was about time I started my next project which I've had in mind for a while. For the last couple of years I've had an old TA01 Chassis kicking around. I've never used it but it's always sat on my desk in the hope I might build it into something one day. Well, that Chassis still isn't being used but it provided the inspiration for this build. It all started off with me spotting a brand new TA01/02 FRP Chassis kit on eBay a few weeks ago. I stuck it in my watch list expecting it to get snapped up before I had the money to buy it myself. Surprisingly as pay day came around three weeks later it was still sitting there. So I bought it, and plenty of other bits to go with it. Anyway, today those bits arrived Not one to stand on ceremony I got straight on with building the chassis. Now I've dismantled plenty of TA01 and TA02 chassis' to be able to do it with my eyes shut, however despite my FF01 being FRP the chassis came pre-assembled so I've never actually built one. After staring at the parts tree and pile of screws for a while I decided to get the FF01 down to use as a reference for where it all went. That worked and before I knew it I was underway You'll notice the FF01 doing a bit of life modelling in the background. A very useful reference. I figured as I'd got this far (reasonably quickly) I might as well attach the gearbox casings as well. Im still waiting for a rear diff to arrive so I could only attach the main rear housing, however because I'm running this as RWD I carried out getting the empty front casing screwed together and onto the chassis along with the FRP top deck I then had to figure out how the carbon front body mount bracket went together and onto the chassis. It took a bit of googling to find a decent picture but I think I got it right haha! I'm still waiting for plenty of other bits to arrive but I'm happy with the start I made this evening For the body I decided on the Mercedes 190E from the TT01E kit. After lots of searching I managed to find someone selling the body, sticker set and wheels but after adding it all up with shipping it was coming to nearly £70!! I did a bit of googling and found Tower Hobbies were selling the whole kit for £93 delivered! So I bought the whole kit! Ive taken out the body, stickers, wheels and tyre's and I'll advertise the chassis kit on eBay as I've got no interest in the TT01. Thats about it so far. Not bad for the first night
  19. Recently, a TamiyaClub member had an idea for a project which interested me: I offered to write some fiction for it, using ideas from that thread, the sources that inspired it, and influences from my own work. Reading the initial post there will give the required context for this thread. The result is a story that chronicles a potential development route for the famous Avante. The actual Avante's history is documented, so this is purely fiction. It uses details from the RC car's development, but otherwise attempts to treat it as a real racing car - and the driver figures as people. Certain elements of the story may not be entirely accurate - I never owned a Vanquish, Egress, or Avante 2001, after all - but are adequate for the narrative. My knowledge of Tamiya's actual racing programs is likely not entirely accurate, either, including the bits about the TRF 211X and 411X. Again, fiction. I am putting the story here in case it is not accepted as the vision of the project's creator, in which case it is my stand-alone writing. Personally, I find it interesting to think about an RC project including elements that go beyond just the car and its parts. The writing is amateur at best, but so are my other hobbies! This first part in particular is heavy on exposition, but will set up a story later. And now, presenting: Tamiya Azente: TXR, the Avante, and the Driver who Never Raced "First, be aware that I was the one chosen for this project among almost one hundred drivers. Among them, the promising Albert Attaboy who remained stuck in Baja Buggy races, Evert Edwards who had relatives working at Tamiya and who couldn't get more than the Vanquish. Even Greg Martin, who was popular thanks to the Hornet, was in the list. The most pathetic of all was undoubtedly Ricky Roop." These were the words attributed to Marcus "Paranoid" Perry, the lead driver for the Tamiya Racing Factory (TRF), and the one entrusted with the famous Avante. Chapter 1: The Avante Today, the Tamiya Racing Factory is a formidable force on the racing scene, fielding competitive racers across all categories and winning prestigious events around the world. Privateers using the team’s equipment have managed to score many successes at the club and national levels. The genesis was the Tamiya Avante program. *** Tamiya was responsible for the democratization of off-road racing; their Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher kits allowed even the casual enthusiast to take part in competitions. Both were setups high on value, with rugged components that could withstand the abuse of hard driving under harder conditions. The pair had a certain aesthetic flair, as well: purposeful lines that emulated the Volkswagens upon which they were based went well with the simple appeal that their oversized tires and sturdy mechanicals had. The ones with the most time and money of these amateurs became the professionals that established dominance over drivers with lesser vehicles. It took some time before the Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher could be challenged, but once rivals began improving on the basic layout, the racing scene began transforming rapidly. Lighter, faster racers emerged from other shops, and yesterday’s heroes became today’s second-class citizens. Tamiya sought to retain its stature within the racing community, and achieved it with the Frog. This lightweight rear-wheel-drive buggy was built on the principles that made the pioneering Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher so successful: durability, value, and aesthetic appeal. The emergence of composite engineering allowed Tamiya to drastically reduce the Frog’s weight compared to their earlier models, blessing the new one with the sprightly acceleration of its animal namesake. Thus, a cycle ensued between Tamiya and the other racing companies that were beginning to establish themselves to challenge the incumbent. As these rivals advanced, so did their designs, producing a gap that Tamiya would close with a new design of its own. It was an arms race that saw Tamiya launch weapons like the Hotshot, waging its wars on the track, fighting ferocious battles in every heat. As time passed, the cycle intensified… At last, Tamiya did not have an answer. The company had cars winning at club and national races, but was dangerously far behind its rivals on the international scene. The Hotshot, once the car to beat, had spent precious little time atop the time sheets, and new developments on this design proved ineffective in bringing the fight to the rivals once outpaced by the racers bearing the twin stars. It was in this tumultuous time that a new racer – something completely different – was unleashed. *** The new car was Tamiya’s superweapon. It was supposed to change the balance of power in the off-road racing scene, and restore Tamiya’s name as not the producer of cutting-edge racers, but of winners. Yet the design of the Avante would have guaranteed both. It would win Tamiya the war. Extensive research and testing programs resulted in a highly-sophisticated chassis in an innovative configuration. Four-wheel-drive was not new at this level, not even shaft-driven four-wheel-drive – indeed, Tamiya introduced it with their Hotshot – but a longitudinally mid-mounted motor certainly was. A double-deck composite chassis was specified in place of the then-standard ‘bathtub’ type, and metal was used extensively in the suspension links, in place of plastics, for more precision and adjustability. Metal was also used for the coil-spring damper bodies, and the dampers themselves were of much-higher specifications than those found on other Tamiyas. Special attention was paid to aerodynamics; while this aspect of design is a vital component in on-road competition, the incoming design placed new importance on it in the off-road category. The swoopy Thundershot predated the new car; however, the former did not go to the lengths of the latter, which even had a special undercowl to streamline the bottom surface. A large rear wing generated downforce, which at its most aggressive settings brought its aerodynamic performance closer to its contemporaries, but with much more useful grip. Set low, the car cut the air quite well. Even the wheels featured aerodynamic hub caps, with cam-lock mechanisms that allowed for tool-free wheel changes. This new racer was designed exclusively for electronic components. Eliminating the bulky mechanical speed control setup found in contemporary cars allowed the designers to wrap the body shell tighter around the chassis, reducing frontal area and chassis size. The cockpit featured fully-electronic controls and displays, and the steering wheel was shaped accordingly, to accommodate the requisite buttons and switches. It would only look slightly dated in a current Formula One racer. The result was a racing package that was (in principle) fully optimized for its intended use. Many bold decisions went into its configuration, creating a car unlike anything ever seen before in the racing world. Could a design rife with such fresh thinking really be as fast as it was believed to be? *** The Tamiya Experimental Racing (TXR) team was formed as a testing group for this groundbreaking car. The lead driver was Hinomoto Rikimaru, who was selected for his ability to adapt to ‘progressive’ designs, like the unusual Saint Dragon that he campaigned with the Coro Coro Racing Team. The finished prototype would be christened “Azente.” Some sources claim that it translates into “gift from God,” which is certainly how highly Tamiya regarded it, while others suggest it was the name of a powerful deity. Whatever the case, the Azente would be tested thoroughly by Rikimaru, and it was in this car that he was rumoured to have set unofficial course records faster than the leading racers of the day. Stifling secrecy characterized the Azente testing program. At the time, TXR was not even officially acknowledged by Tamiya itself! A special design with such prodigious potential could never risk being spotted by anybody, let alone a rival. Reportedly, the Azente was troubled by poor handling during early test sessions, but swiftly developed into a devastatingly-quick machine. Rikimaru spoke quite fondly of the car, and his lap times – some on the same circuits that appeared in the international racing scene – seemed to vindicate Tamiya for going ahead with such a bold design. Much of the prototype testing was done in America; hence, TXR would be based there. The location did allow for relative seclusion from Tamiya’s primary home in Japan. As the Azente progressed, the prototype gained new decals as different liveries were subject to tests, too! Tremendous excitement was building within Tamiya around the program. The astounding success of the race test sessions prompted Tamiya to push for an early start to the racer’s campaign. This decision was assisted by the acceleration of the program, owing to test driver Rikimaru’s devotion to the project and his long hours spent honing the car. *** The Azente was now deemed ready for competition. Somewhere before its first public unveiling, the name was changed to Avante. Refinements that went into the Azente was now changing the car’s design to the point that a new name was merited. Tamiya believed that “Avante” was more dynamic and indicative of the forward thinking that went into the new car’s design. The flamboyant lettering and colourful stars and stripes were replaced by a brilliant dark-blue finish, with sponsor texts in bright yellow. The intent was to give the car a more “professional [and] purposeful” appearance, befitting the high hopes that Tamiya placed on their latest weapon. Similarly, the TXR officially evolved into the Tamiya Racing Factory, to be the first team to race the Avante. The laid-back atmosphere that followed the crack squad of engineers working on a secret project was made more formal, in time with the group’s new role in the public eye. Suspension geometries and minor finishing details were revised for the Avante’s launch. A new testing program was launched, a quick one to further optimize the design for racing. Since it was felt that an engineer/driver was better at developing the Avante at this stage, Marcus “Paranoid” Perry, an emerging engineering and driving talent with the program, replaced Hinomoto Rikimaru. While Rikimaru did the driving for the Azente, Perry did the work refining the overall design package that resulted in the Avante. He would continue this role for the duration of the Avante’s career. Complementing the electronics package was an additional computer system that would allow the team to record and access live telemetry from the car. Data gathered here would be used by TRF and Tamiya for the further development of the chassis, as well as succeeding models. The Avante was unlike anything seen before in the off-road racing world at any level, and the engineers believed that its unique combination of adjustability, precision, and creativity could be leveraged into spectacular success on the international circuit, the kind that had been eluding Tamiya for so long. It had been designed from the outset with the qualities that made a championship racer. Tamiya felt that the car simply had to win. Nothing had been left to chance… *** What happened next is well-documented. The Avante, Tamiya’s great hope, and the flagship of its off-road racing efforts, failed conspicuously. The operation went into disarray as the new model showed poor handling tendencies and even worse reliability. The precision metal ball-end joints that were selected for their tight tolerances developed alarming slop after a few races, while other metal parts were either too fragile or too heavy. Drivers complained of vague-feeling steering that could suddenly snap into a spin, owing to its wide front tires and short wheelbase. The innovative wheels were also to blame, being much heavier than standard types, and less reliable. Cooling problems were evident in some events due to the compact packaging of electronic elements within the chassis; the motor was placed largely out of the slipstream, which made for better aerodynamics but poor heat exchange. The varied use of metal, composites, and plastic did not allow for a particularly-cohesive design, and so the overall quality of the product suffered. The Tamiya Racing Factory and its lead driver, “Paranoid” Perry, could only therefore collect limited in-race data from the Avante, and spent frustrating amounts of time replacing broken parts and tuning the chassis during the only season it was raced with factory support. At the end of its only factory racing season – a national one, no less – it could only finish seventh overall. *** The Avante was too expensive to write off as a total failure, and so different solutions using the existing chassis as a base were tried. Much of it was based off the data collected by TRF and “Paranoid” Perry: The Vanquish attempted to simplify things to the point of creating a new, less-expensive (and thus more marketable) model. This was an Avante with a longer wheelbase, bathtub chassis, cheaper components, and a new body. It featured more plastic than the racer upon which it was based, which increased slop but reduced the complexity of maintenance. The subsequent reduction in weight benefitted its handling. Unlike the Avante, the Vanquish could be equipped with a mechanical speed control, which increased its appeal with privateers. However, it remained out of the price range for many others, and so it did not recoup as much of the losses that Tamiya had hoped it would. Of note was the lightweight wheels: initially an upgrade for the Avante developed during its short front-line career, it would be specified as mandatory equipment for the Vanquish, along with aggressive pin-spike tires, to help address the vague steering and heavy rotational mass that plagued the Avante. The Egress, on the other hand, sought to upgrade the Avante to its maximum potential. In the process, it lost the metal ball-ends, but gained new chassis plates that extended its wheelbase to that of the Vanquish. Many of the plastic parts that were introduced on the Vanquish were used on the Egress, this time in the interest of lower weight. Switching to plastic ball-ends for suspension links further reduced weight and complexity. The Egress also featured Tamiya’s finest dampers, nicknamed “Hi-Caps.” The result was an improved car, but despite an elusive international victory, it was not a dominant racer. Incidentally, that winning car was heavily-modified from the factory Egress… Lastly, the Avante 2001 was a refreshed, simplified Avante. Unlike the Vanquish and Egress, this model would retain the Avante name and an appearance much closer to that of the original model, but using many of the chassis components that made their debut on the former two. This meant more plastic, including in the damper bodies. The Avante 2001 also returned to the same wheel design that appeared on the Avante, in a different colour. This model therefore retained much of the aesthetic character of the Avante, but would be easier to service and race. Despite these intentions, not many of them were produced or campaigned before Tamiya finally left the platform – and competitive four-wheel-drive off-road racing – behind. *** With the demise of the Avante, and the lingering spectre of its dubious competition legacy, Tamiya sought to quit four-wheel-drive off-road racing, and instead focused on rear-wheel-drive platforms. Much like its four-wheel-drive campaign, the two-wheel-drive effort saw few returns for the effort (including the notoriously-complex Astute). It was the end of an era. Yet TRF persisted, and once again Tamiya developed competitive two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive racers for off-road competition. These models, dubbed the 211X and 411X, were tested extensively, under a much more thorough program that was influenced by the lessons learned from the Avante. The 211X went on to become the moderately-successful and well-received Dyna Storm, but the 411X was not developed further and was ultimately never released. Many years later, when TRF returned to off-road racing, they did so with a two-wheel-drive car: the TRF201. It was only after cautious research and development that a four-wheel-drive chassis was announced. To this day, the Avante remains a cautionary tale too close to Tamiya. In a twist of events, though, the Avante now enjoys premium collector-car status with off-road racing enthusiasts. Even in the face of poor results, time has allowed for the appreciation of the Avante as a seminal design that perhaps was just the victim of poor execution. Several features it introduced, such as the longitudinal mid-mounted motor, became standard on the next generation of top-line racers, and it has since been lauded for its forward-thinking packaging, use of high-quality materials, and pure aesthetic appeal. The vintage racing scene gives the Avante a new competitive setting, and with new modifications available, it has become an easier racer to live with. What it may still lack in speed, it makes up for in glamour, and it is partly due to its lack of success that the design has become quite unique among off-road buggies. There may well never be another quite like it. *** Stranger than the Avante’s elevation from factory flop to blue-chip collectible is another theory for the Avante’s ultimate failure: the appointment of Marcus Perry as Tamiya Racing Factory’s lead driver for the Avante’s campaign. It is unthinkable now, with “Paranoid” Perry being the most famous name linked to the model, and yet it has been suggested that the release of the very driver who paced the prototype Azente through its entire program – Hinomoto Rikimaru – was the primary factor for the poor competitive career of the Avante. Rikimaru certainly showed a pace in the car that Perry struggled to find; had the man most familiar with such a unique car been permitted to race it in anger, Tamiya could have found itself with the international trophies it so longed for. Counter to this theory is the notion that Rikimaru worked to the Avante’s detriment. A driver with more experience in conventional machinery could have developed the Avante to the style of a conventional driver, making it easier to access the design’s inherent speed. This theory posits that by entrusting Rikimaru with almost all the driving development, he built the car too much in his own image, and so the performances of other drivers in a car inherently set up for him would consequently suffer. Rikimaru was noted as having little experience in four-wheel-drive racers, which could have made a driver expecting the car to behave more like one drive it poorly. The Avante, by accounts, required more attention than most other racers to point it in the intended direction of travel. Confusing this further are the reputations of each driver: Hinomoto Rikimaru is simultaneously recognized as having exceptional car control and poor driving instincts, while Marcus Perry is at once a gifted off-road racer and a hard-luck loser. Whether Rikimaru spoiled the car through his incessant development, or Perry was too impatient to find an ideal race-day setup, controversy surrounds these two men’s involvement in Tamiya’s grandest plan. Rikimaru, for the record, has been bitter over his release from TXR and its allegedly-preferential treatment of Perry, while Perry continues to speculate that Rikimaru somehow set him up for failure… … They don’t call him “Paranoid” Perry for nothing, after all It is here where the story of Hinomoto Rikimaru begins…
  20. Hi there, I decided to build a replica of my VW bus, a 1973 lifted type2 bay window (with a water cooled v6 engine ) into a RC model. I purchased a reedition 2010 Sand scorcher and started the build couple month ago, I thought it would be all about the details, trying to replicate all the work that went into my original bus into a 1/10 scale version, using a mix of old models parts, 3D printed parts and so on... This is where things started to be a little more tricky than I thought, the only body I could find online of a type 2 bus 1/10 (the one with the square front, not with the V front) is an ABS Body and a Lexan body found on eBay that are basically vacuum molded and lack a lot of details as a result . Second huge detail is the wheel spacing, the bus front to back wheel distance Of the bus body is a lot smaller than the sand scorcher wheel distance... this is when I decided to cut the bottom plate and reduce the overall size of my Sand scorcher body :/ In this thread i’ll Show you all the steps of my work in progress, this is far from being done but i’m Planning on posting regular updates of my built . Hopefully this will be a good one . Here are some pictures of my (real) Bus , you can find more here http://www.instagram.com/pacifist_northwest . Let’s see how close I can get wish me luck.
  21. ON HOLD PENDING FUNDS Hi guys, long time no post on TC. Time to offload some of the collection. Sales terms: Prices are net to me. Paypal as friend, or bank wire only. No checks. Available in the lemanic are, F2F always welcome, the beer is on me Shipping from switzerland extra, at cost. Always happy to provide more pics on request, but only if interested in purchasing, no tyre kickers please. Pease PM me if interested. Thank you! Paul Brand spanking NIB Tamiya Wrangler #84071. $300. Discountinued and hard-to-find.As new as it gets, box has been opened to check contents but that's as far as it went. Has the LED Module.
  22. Hi guys, long time no post on TC. Time to offload some of the collection. Sales terms: Prices are net to me. Paypal as friend, or bank wire only. No checks. Available in the lemanic are, F2F always welcome, the beer is on me Shipping from switzerland extra, at cost. Always happy to provide more pics on request, but only if interested in purchasing, no tyre kickers please. Pease PM me if interested. Thank you! Paul Brand Spanking New In Box F201 kit #58094 - USD349 The original quirky design from Shizuoka. As unopened as you will ever find (if you ever find one). Actually Theborder has one for EUR499 here: https://www.the-border.com/Tamiya-4WD-F1-Chassis-w-Orig-Body-F201-58294.html Mine is a lot less
  23. Hi! looking to sell my TA05IFS as I cant justifiy to my wife more then 1 touring car. So looking to trade it for a DN01 offroad buggy to keep the balance between my onroad-offroad vehicles. the TA05 IFS comes with box, boxart Advan Vemac 408R body and a LRP Mercedes C class DTM body. 1xset of tamiya slick, 1xset of LRP VTEC slicks TA05IFS RTR with silver can, TEU101 esc, and tamiya 27mhz radio gear. Servo also included. a few aluminum upgrades like steering, carbon center plate, carbon rear shock tower, all 4 shocks adjustubale, and a few more upgrades... also as for spare parts the new owner will get new belts, new diff spurs and pinions... stabilisers fron and rear, CVA touring car shocks and more.... my asking price is 199€ including shipping. Can be bought with batteries. a LRP 5000mAh Ni-Mh for Tamiyaclub members free! it is also listed on ebay.
  24. I am putting my old and RARE Carson CH-04 2speed belt driven nitro car for sale here first. It is missing motor (long shaft), dampers, bodymounts and electrics. This has a product code of 59169, this car was made while Carson was a DICKIE-TAMIYA member (dont know if still are) this model is much superior as the CR04 that can be still bought from Carson, this model is discountinued somewhere around 2006 and NIB price was around 200DEM It was powerd with a 2,5ccm nitro motor from 'Force', I believe same as Tamiya nitro models. It is in full working condition, all belts are provided and some spare. Also optional damper stays in matching blue aluminium, optinioal pinions... Since the Spur's are immpossible to find, I did pay to fabricate alumium Spur's they work perfect and are the same as the original plastic ones, new alumium spurs can be made at cost, not so cheap but possible. Price Edit: it is listed on ebay auction for 70€ + posting here on the forum I will put this to 60€ + shipping! What you see is what you get. ,
  25. Hi, looking for a Bruiser / Mountain Rider rolling chassis (with wheels/tires). No electronics/motor needed! It can be used condition, but must be complete and in working order. Must be located somewhere in EUR (I'm in Germany) due to shipping costs. thanks
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