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In 1990, after many hours watching promotional videos in Beaties, I bought a Tamiya Terra Scorcher. I used it for many hours in the local streets and fields, and raced it from 1992 til 1994 at a local club. Since then it's mainly sat, broken and worn. The A5 broke quite quickly, and a friend of my dad turned a new one out of a block of aluminium, it was an item of wonder at the local club. I recently came across the Tamiya Legends youtube channel, which motivated me to fix up my Terra Scorcher. I was unaware of the 2020 Re release, and so when I learned of this, my plan has grown. I will purchase the re-release kit, repair my broken Terra Scorcher from this kit (chassis, shock towers, shocks, suspension hangers, knuckle arms, C hubs, all cracked , broken and glued on my original. I will paint the car as my original in a petrol blue colour, and add the luminous yellow wheels I used when I raced it, so that it is restored to the way the car was when I first took it racing at the local club. As for the 2020 kit, I will replace the parts I take with upgradedes, alloy parts and the carbon chassis conversion, with a plan to once again take it racing in a vintage heat in the North East regionals. My plan for this car are: Carbon chassis conversion Alloy A5 / B8 / C hubs / knuckle arms. Carbon fibre fibre lyte shock towers One way unit in the front (not only for handling, but to eleviate the stress on the car from braking on high grip surfaces) Screw kit from RCSCREWZ Gearbox reinforcement sleeves to protect mounting positions HiCap dampers Hingepins and upper arm mounts to be replaced with e-clip style Improved turnbuckles. I intend to try and get this setup to get closer to the other vintage cars, RC10s, CATs, Cougars, Top Forces etc..... though maybe not close to the CAT2000s I anticipate being in that category. I'll post updates, and videos of races, once I get there. Any tips for setting up the Terra Scorcher for racing, much appreciated. Picture here of part built car I intend to race in the vintage class:
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Hi. I'm planning to paint the driver for my Thunder Dragon and would like to see some pics from this group for inspiration and more importantly, I'd like to get some tips. Any lessons learned that you could share would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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[Thread moved to The Builds in April 2018 due to ongoing mods] Here's my Thunder Dragon, which although some parts date back to when I first got it 1988 (it was my first proper RC car), it's a bit of a Trigger's Broom, in that most of the plastic parts have been wrecked and replaced over time. New tub, new rear gearbox casings, new A5 (several times!! Now reinforced with a steel front section off ebay), new wishbones. Last year I decided to do a bit of a restomod on it: The original CVA dampers were leaking and just not in a good place, so got some Absima alloy body shocks which work well with the car for bashing about. At this point I also managed to pick up some Terra Scorcher wide shock mounts as I read these were better than the narrow original style. Rear ones work a treat, but fronts not only foul the body of my Thunder Dragon, they flexed like mad! So, inspired by Pintopower/AMPRO Engineering, I measured everything up and got a beefed up, wide stance front shock mount designed up and 3D printed at Shapeways. It's a bit hard to see in the photo, but it's a deep i-beam section which puts the uprights outside the TD body and allowed me to mount 62mm mini shocks on the outer most hole of the front wishbones. Due to the scarcity/price/performance of the original wheels, I did a 12mm hex/2.2" modern wheel conversion. I think these black 6 spokes look really nice on the car. Full bearing inside and out, a modern ESC and 21t brushed motor and 13t steel pinion from Modelsport here in the UK (where I get most of my RC stuff actually). Still running original ACOMS receiver and steering servo, although after tonight's run and my newly acquired knowledge from on here, I think a better servo saver would be good. Most recent upgrade was the rear Terra Scorcher anti roll bar. Absolutely transformed the handling of the car. I've removed the front bar now too as the wide stance mounts and new shocks hold it up nicely. It's now bordering on oversteery on turn in, and I grip rolled it tonight too which I never did before! If you have a Thundershot chassis car GET the rear anti roll bar. As you can see it's a bit rough, but it's a runner and I love it. It has all the upgrades I wanted to buy when I was 13 but couldn't afford! I would really like a new shell I could paint properly, but they're insane money now and I don't like any of the other TS chassis shells. Thunder Dragon has always been the one for me. Would love to know what you think, and if you have any suggestions for any more hop ups. I have brand new front gear casings on the A-sprue I bought to get the rears, so might refresh those as they're prone to cracking on the suspension mounts. Now I've been running a 3300kV brushless setup in my Grasshopper 3 I'm getting a bit tempted to go mad and get a GoolRC 3800kV brushless kit for this!
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All new, all inc. free UK shipping, if you want recorded delivery please ask for quote. Pics are available if required, please pm me Will consider discounts for larger orders/bundles 1x set of two grey wheels NIP from stadium raider, hex.mount cc01 sized £8 Set of unused off road tracks and left overs from tt02 track build £7 3x hobbying hk 15138 25t spline (futaba 3003 copies) @£4 2x hobbywing hk 15269 25t spline servo (futaba 3003 copies) @£4 2x steel RW racing 17t 32dp pinion (0.8mm equiv) 1x steel RW racing 18t 32dp pinion (0.8mm equiv) 2x steel RW racing 16t 0.6mm pinion 1x steel RW racing 18t 0.6mm pinion All pinions @£4 1x 53968 5x5mm hard hex head ball connectors (5 per pack) £8 3x 53969 5x8mm hard hex head ball connectors (5 per pack) @£8 54208 3x 5x8mm hex head ball connector flourine coated £3.50 53969 6x 5x8mm hex hard head ball connectors £8 White gf-01/gf-01/wr-02 large bumper £2 1x 53913 alloy wheel adaptor £9 2x thundershot 2005 rere motor mounts @£4 5x 54395 3x22mm shaft sets, use for dt-02 or thundershot chassis upper arms @£7 1x alloy A5 part for thundershot chassis £20 6x steel A5 protector braces @£7.50
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Spent a very enjoyable 3 months building and developing the setup on my DT03 but this car being brushless and pretty quick lead to the Thunder Dragon feeling a bit unloved. When a cheap Chinese hobbywing 120a esc copy popped up on eBay for £11 I figured it was cheap enough that I had pretty much nothing to lose. Although proper vintage (I have had the car since 1989. Got it for my 13th birthday) it's always been a runner and it's had quite a few improvements and modernisation already so brushless seemed like a good step. I had an Mtroniks rv20 esc and 21t x 2 brushed setup before which was great when it was replacing the MSC and silver can but even the tble-02 in my DT03 is much easier to handle and more responsive to braking and neutral throttle programming. I had also found the Thunder Dragon just a bit dull to drive because with 4WD and modern 2.2" wheels and tyres it was easily able to handle 21t and was just a bit easy to drive. Contrast to constantly chasing the setup on my DT03 and how much better it was making me drive because I couldn't just open the throttle and hold it there like on the TD it was time to pep up the old timer and make it a bit more of a handful!! I picked a Speed Passion 10.5t 3800kV motor on eBay but with this esc have options for lower. Firstly had to rearrange the tub. The rv20 is tiny and just slid in the vacant MSC servo slot on its side. The new esc complete with fan needed to sit on the MSC plate but that attachment bosses needed filing off first. Brushed setup stripped out MSC mounting plate. One boss has been removed previously but I can't remember why! The boss nearest the camera needs to come off to make a flat mount space for the esc And it's gone The other thing I figured out to tidy up the packaging a little was my ACOMS Rx slots into the old servo slot vacated by the previous esc, but the old servo bosses needed filing off. This gives the mounting plate more support and hold the Rx nice and snug Before After Rx moved and plate reinstalled This was my first effort at soldering leads. The removable plugs on the speed passion motor made this a breeze. My big problem came because the cheapness of my esc played out when the battery leads just fell off in my hand from a nice random crimp/nearly cut through section on the leads about 4cm from the esc. I desoldered the connections and removed the stubs and went about soldering the battery leads with the plug back on. This was a complete pain and such a fight! Soldering to esc terminals is hard! Anyway, finally just about got it sorted. I was worried about mucking it up so didn't trim the wires before soldering so not the neatest installation but a tie wrap to the body post sorts that. Waiting on some more double sided sticky pads from Modelsport to complete the mounting but a tie wrap got me up and running. The power switching isn't compatible with the under chassis slot so I stuck it on top of the tube where the resistor used to be so I can reach through the hole in the body to get it. I have the Deans convertor because I run Nimh batteries and all my stuff is tamiya plug. If someone can persuade me that soldering deans plugs is as easy as my motor connections were I might convert all my stuff to Deans. Took it for a run on gravel and in the woods and played with the program card (hobbywing card works). 14t pinion and it's quick and fun and I now need to sort the dampers and handling out because it's pretty feisty. Just what I wanted. Cheers
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Im repurposing this thread to keep my builds in one place, leaving the posts about my TT02B Scorcher, linking to my Terra Scorcher thread for the pics and comments for when i put it together but i dont expect there to be much more happening in that thread. My Terra Scorcher build. Hey all! A couple of days back i started a Plasma Edge 2. This is the first ever kit im building and my first hobby grade RC car since a Marui Big Bear i had back in the nineties. (Had two or three toy grade cars since) A couple of years back i got back into RC with building/flying fpv drones and foamboard planes, was good fun but ive since fallen out of that, too much repairing compared to RCing, im hoping a car will be a bit less maintenance per battery pack In an earlier thread over in Other Makes i showed off the 3d print that got me back in RC this time, after getting that together i wanted to pick up a kit. I was looking between the Plasma Edge 2 and the Neo Fighter, both look real good but since id never had a 4wd i decided on the TT02B over the DT03, even tho it cost a bit more. Following the instructions to get it together was very straight forward after looking at a couple vids in preparation and building a 3d printed 1/10 rwd buggy a little earlier. As for pics of the build process ill go with "draw a circle, draw another circle, now draw the rest of the f###ing owl" rather than spamming lots of pics that most of everyone will have no interest in seeing. I followed along the instructions, only difference from box stock was adding in ball bearings. Since getting it to the above state ive had it out for a little test drive, so happy with how it moves, even if the ground was mostly frozen except for a little patch of gravel at work. Today i properly attached the antenna holder using the top hole on the inner servo mount, added some foam to the underside of the battery hold down to prevent rattling and added little shelf where a battery voltage alarm was attached as i dont know what, if any, lipo cut off the carson dragster 70A esc has (it was included in the kit rather than the tamiya esc i was expecting). I also designed and printed 10mm extensions for the shocks to hopefully give a bit more ground clearance. Sadly they turned out to be a bust as the arms will not go more than a mm or two lower. Was expecting them to be able to go down at least 10mm since they go up more than that but the cups for the drive axles hit the arms just slightly below horizontal. To get a bit more clearance ive put in an order for some 96mm tires on 12mm hex rims, its not a huge step up so hopefully ill be fine without changing the gearing, the rims should be large enough that they will fit over the axle carriers, offset wasnt specified but in case the included rims arent good ill just 3d print my own to fit. Until the new wheels (and some other random bits) arrive i figure im going to paint the body shell, from my tabletop mini hobby i have an assortment of acrylics and an airbrush, seeing that the proline body colors are water based i feel relatively sure they are also acrylics so i think ill be fine with what i already have. Im having a hard time deciding on how id want to paint it tho, the strongest thought i have is red because "Red Wunz Go Fasta", i think it would look nice with the visible black parts of the chassi, white shocks and black/white/blue/yellow of the decals. Will update upon more progress.
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I've been promising to do this for a long time, so here it is, some pictures of how I fitted a one way unit in my thundershot: First, the runner vehicle: It's fitted with a 4000KV EzRUN 8.5T motor which I run on 2S LiPo (Core RC shaped packs). The one way handles the power without issues (So far) I've used standard unmodified drive cups both sides of the gearbox: Externally, the diff housing looks almost identical, apart from the use of 2 plastic spacers which are included in the 53200 kit, I put one each side of the one way unit: The 53200 unit fits straight into one side of the diff housing without any mods: and the only mod required is to remove enough plastic from the gear side of the housing to allow the square part of the one way unit to slot in where the 3 small bevel gears used to sit: That's it. Dead simple and an easy mod.
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Hi all. I'm after some 3x8mm self tapping screws for my thunder dragon. Vintage new is preferable but will consider anything. Pic for reference. Please let me know if you can help.
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Hello all, Was browsing using Google and stumbled upon this site. So happy to see there is a forum dedicated to vintage Tamiya products. I got into the hobby of rc cars back when I was living in NJ. As a kid growing up I was always sick (combination of allergies, asthma and a kidney defect), so I would be out of school weeks to a month at a time. As I entered middle school in the mid-80s I found a hobby shop called Highway Hobbies in Ramsey, NJ. I remember walking into that store eyes so wide I thought they would pop out of my head. I think my mom let me buy one kit with a radio. She let me buy the Hornet. I remember setting aside a 3x3' card table in the middle of the basement and got to work. Not sure how long it took me, but being OCD I made sure everything was perfect. lol. I just ran the Hornet around my yard and street. I think it was a few months later I saved up for a Grasshopper. That didn't last long as I realized it was a novice kit Sold that and purchased a Boomerang. My 1st 4WD buggy. I owned that one for a year and raced with my cousins who purchased the Fox and my old Grasshopper. Eventually I sold the Boomerang to my cousin and purchased the Thundershot when it 1st came out, also purchased my 1st trigger style remote the Futaba Magnum Sport. By this time I started high school and loved science and cars, and I started looking for a way to compete. I found Zeppelin Hobbies which was a good 30 minutes drive from my house had weekend races. It was asphalt style with the PVC tubing "Dog-Bone" looking course. I remember weeks leading up the 1st event I purchased some plastic sheets to make a newer and lower bumper, new body to keep it aerodynamic and low to the ground, purchased some foam tires and stuck the wheels/tires in a drill chuck to shave them down, and disassembled the shocks to put rubber donuts on the shaft to lower the car and adding stiffer springs. I was so OCD that I ran the car full throttle in a parking lot to see what gearing I would need to make it to the end of the 5 minute race. With the gearing I had the car lasted 5:10 lol. Those few years in high school I won every race I attended and was noted by the announcer of my driving style of avoiding every car on course and never hitting walls. My last race I think was 1989 or 1990 when I became a senior. Put everything into a box and stored at my parents. Went through college, didn’t find it to my liking, got a job, my parents passed away in the late 90s and was given my box of Thundershot and parts. Got married and we got a house and opened the box to try to run it. And you can guess after about 5 minutes of running the whole front end hit the ground. Yup A5. Looked on eBay and found a parts car, removed the A5 to put onto my car. Tried again. Broken A5. lol. So I put everything back in the box and shelved it until this year when my boys showed interested in RC Cars. I purchased them some Xmod cars back when Radio Shack was going out of business. 3 cars for about $100 with remotes, etc. Once they started getting better at that speed we placed an order for a Tamiya Dual Ridge (my youngest who is 12), Plasma Edge (my teenager) and a Neo Scorcher (for me). It’s been over a month since we ordered because of this virus. My boys love engineering, technology, building and solving problems so hoping they will love building these models. I did find a place that sells the reinforcement plate for the A5 which arrived last week, which was great to get my Thundershot to run for longer than 5 minutes
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Since i switched to lipo i have been more and more concerned about about how gunged up the balance plug gets when running on grass. Also the chassis just still gets filled up with grass and rubbish through the battery hole in the tub. So i designed an enclosed battery holder inspired by the M chassis idea of cups held by a top plate. These are the first prototypes. It is shaped to seal against the tub as far as possible. There is still a small gap but hopefully will be a vast improvement over the original setup. I can always add some sticky foam to help close up the gaps if needs be. Top plates fit over the stock bosses ob the tub and the same screws that hold the kit battery cage on hold these down. Both sides installed. The holders are held in place with body clips on posts just like the M chassis. The battery plug feeds through but there is enough space to stash the balance lead inside the cup keeping it nice and clean. These are down in PLA from a Treatstock vendor making them cheap enough to try. I uploaded them to Shapeways and thry would cost about 50 dollars! Not sure i want a clean battery that much!
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Hi I have a few bodies I have replaced for new TBG ones. If they are of any interest let me know please. packing and post is worth about £5 so make me an offer if they are of any use to you. All are original vintage. FireDragon, small tear just above front suspension into the front canopy, also rear cut outs for shock mounts are rough as are the rear body mount posts. Madcap, in black for main body with a silver black metal fleck wing (some of paint on wing is starting to flake off) Boomerang in a sort of orange/light red, rear wing is bent. some of decals starting to peel. Boomerang main body- no wing, or protective film Thundershot - odd colours badly done and no decals. Body is reasonable with only a tiny split starting in back corner, not yet bad enough to really notice. If any of them is of any use to you drop me a PM. Thanks, Andrew
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Hi all, Have a sort out and have got a bundle of old wheels and tires to get rid of. None of the fitted tires are glued to the wheels. A Job lot consisting of: 1 Set vintage Vanquish wheels with oval blocks on the back and pin spikes on the front. The tires are seriously badly cracked, don't think they would survive removal, but I have run them on a super sabre without a problem, so someone might get some life from them before they disintegrate. There still plenty of tread left on the tires. Please note that the rear wheels are identical, so when fitted, the teardrop pattern in the wheel faces the opposite direction to the front. 2 complete sets of vintage hotshot wheels. One set plated and one not. The gold plating has flaked in the usual manner from the plated wheels as they have been used. 4 used rear oval block tires and 2 used fronts. Tires are in good condition apart from having hardened with age. Front tires have around 40-50% tread. 1 complete set of DT-02 wheels and tires. Wheels are good condition, I bought them used and never used them myself, so passing them on. Back tires are worn, but front are in very good condition. No splits or cracks as far as I can see. 1 pair of Kyosho ? 2.2" rims fitted with Schumacher mini spikes. I'll need £5 for postage within the UK (2nd class signed for), so make me an offer. UK buyers only please, and if you are not comfortable with paying via paypal gift then please tack on a bit more to the offer to cover the paypal fees. Edit 02-03-2019 - Removed thundershot wheels now passed on.
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OK, after getting the family all up and running with WT-01's and Madbulls its time to start the hard work, restoring my old Thundershot. This is it as it was lifted out of its box after over 25 years. SAD, covered in stuck on sawdust, with bits missing, 2 flatspotted tires and some of em starting to crack. Edit:- Have now started work on a Terra Scorcher I picked up, looked ok but knew there was something not right with drive train as it was tooo tight and the chassis also had a split at the front gearbox top mounting hole on the Prop shaft side.
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About a year ago I got bored (as most with this chassis do) of breaking A5 parts. So designed a Super A5! Much, much longer pin engagement, and reinforces. I have been it ever since including some big impacts that have written off a tub. Still solid. It is now available on my Shapeways store CTE RC. https://www.shapeways.com/product/P83N8YZSM/tamiya-thundershot-dragon-super-a5?optionId=64599056 Here's the Super A5 next to the original. Taking advantage of the 58.5mm long M05 suspension shafts to extend and increased the wall thickness on the suspension mounting. And all installed. Need m3 x 20 machine screws to replace the original mounting screws. All back together and body on A5 parts have become very very expensive and the aluminium replacements are over £30 with shipping. This is quite a lot less than that, and as a bonus is available in loads of colours. Hope you like it. Cheers!
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Hi Thundershot fans, restoring to basher status 3 cars so parts dont need to be new just decently usable Before I spend near £200 on parts to restore 3 cars can anyone help me with this parts list 5 Nr bottom suspension arms (the blue spacer as well please for Suspension carrier bolt) From Parts tree D -GOT 1 Nr down from 2- part A5 from parts tree A.- GOT 1 Nr down from 2 rear gearbox protector GOT 2 Rear Drive Shafts (even better got 2 universals so will put in front and switch the rear for good fronts) 2 Nr BD6 from Screw bag D bought parts bag D so GOT From screw Bag A (4 Nr BA1 the 3*36mm screw, 3 Nr BA2 the 3*27mm screw) bought screw bag A so GOT Anyone have some decent used tires? OR that would fit Boomerang rims as both cars have both types of rims. A complete front anti roll bar. - DONT need the plastic uprights (little dog bones??) as I found a set in an old parts tree. Also need two number of the long lower suspension leg carrier bolts (the ones that go through A5 - the two I have had had some sort of epoxy put all over them and I cant get it out of the screw driver socket so wont be able to fit properly. Bought of eBay so GOT Lastly a used but passable ThunderDragon body?? don't much do I? Bought a new TBG with MCI decals. I can source most of this on line (cept the front anti roll bar) so if you dont want to part with your spares I fully understand. I am UK based. Thanks in advance. @ThunderDragonCy @taffer
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Read about the 4wd race cars having caster blocks. Then I found an article on Jamie Booth's Manta Ray which had custom caster adding c hubs to stop it being "twitch city". Got me curious so I modelled up some 10 deg caster c hubs to fit my Thunder Dragon. They arrived today and look great. More when I get them fitted and what difference they make to the handling.
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I'd like to fit some black Thundershot style wheels and tyres on my Avante project, but could use some advice. This is just for a shelfer, but I'd like to it could run if needed. I don't want to cripple it. I bought a pair of the Thundershot rims to test the fitment. At the back, things are OK, but there are very close to rubbing on the screws that connect to the uprights. They are a bit wider than Avante wheels, and have a significantly smaller diameter too. I think with a thing spacer in there, they will do. The problems are at the front. Here, they really do rub the screws, and the steering can't turn properly. There is not enough thread on the wheel axles to space them out enough for it to work. Once they steer, i think they'll just hit the screws again any way So on the front, I considered whether I could cut the wheel itself down to a narrower width, inspired by @TomEG's awesome thread about his Avante XL project. This throw up a few issues. Will it be enough for a comfy fit? How on earth do I cut the wheel effectively (In @TomEG's example, he says it was simple. Maybe I'm a bit simple, too . Finally, and I think maybe this is the really tough bit. If I trim the wheels down, is there a tyre out there than might still fit? Interested to know if anyone thinks this sound plausible, or if I should give up the dream. I lined up the rims on top of my current wheels and, with one eye closed to help me blur reality into fiction, they looked sweeeeet! Even better, someone tell me I'm being dumb and there is a narrow front wheel and tyre version of this awesome design! Appreciate your thoughts.
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Hi all, I'm after a new or nearly new Thunder Shot motor mount. The part number is 4305219. I purchased a new one but it's shiny silver rather than the darker colour that they used to be and it's the darker colour I'm after. Happy to swap my new if you're interested. Please let me know if you can help. Typical I missed out on one on eBay a couple of weeks ago.
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Looking a front bumper, used is fine as long as its sensible usable condition. Thanks,
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Hi all, I'm after screw bag A part number 9465266 for my Thunder Dragon restoration. Turns out I needed a lot more parts for my project than I initially thought Amount I've spent I should have bought a complete one. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, I am in need of 2 lots of Thundershot Joint Cup set (50335). They need to be new or nearly new. If you have only 1 set, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, I'm after 2 pairs of joint diff cups. Part numbers are 2595040 (long gearbox joint) and 2595041 (short gearbox joint) for the thunder shot. They are the grey/black coloured ones, not the more recent polished ones. I'm after new or hardly used. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, Me again I am after a brand new or hardly used C parts tree for a vintage Thundershot. The part number is 9005256. I am specifically after parts C1 and C3. They need to look like the 2 on the left of the attached picture. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks in advance.
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Well I looked these out of the shed and after a quick looks decided the easiest to get running properly again was the Pumpkin. Tires had perished and after watching EBay saw a used set including rims - picked up for £16 posted. When they arrived the rims in great condition and 3 of the 4 tires really good the last tire the tire is not seating perfectly on rim.....have to see if it stays on or not. Had a look and the Neo Scorcher that got me the Tamiya pug again had a box that its brushless motor & speed controller had come in, inside was a Torque tuned Tamiya motor and what I assume was the ESP from the Neo Scorcher...... So as a new tool box arrived I spend the afternoon gutting lots of old storage boxes with a few bits in each and tidying into the new parts boxs, here are a few pics of my afternoons work. I did NO cleaning, I am about bashing and having fun, get it to run and then I MAY....tidy it up a bit. Anyways got the motor and ESP tested then when ahead and stripped out the old MECH Speed controller, servo, resistor and on/off switch. fitted new ones and then it was outside for a test run. Body mounts are all broken, rears are ok but fronts need a bit of fine tuning to get to work. I have also noted the Thundershot is in need of a few bits..... Tires for Either original rims OR for Boomerang rims New tub chassie As you can see I have modded it by making my own front suspension towers but the front gearbox mount on left (right as you look at photo) is missing from the tub....bummer. On a brighter point all the mechanical s seem smooth. Gearbox's are all sweet as well, body needs some work but reckon its repairable. Boomerang is half way home as its with my mates mum to give to my mum.....I have bough loads of parts of Ebay in the expectation it will need them. Amongst the parts I have bought are some Bigwig parts as well including 2 tub chassis one new and one used but in good condition. SO if anyone out there needs a BigWig chassis let me know.
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I have 2 BigWig Chassis, one as good as new with a few minor marks under it, other is good used condition. I need a Thundershot chassis which is a little cheaper of Ebay. So if you need a BigWig chassis, how about you buy me a Thundershot one and get posted to me and I will post you the BigWig one? OR if you have a Thundershot chassis in serviceable used can swap for my used one. PM me if we can do something?