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Found 30 results

  1. This is my vintage Top Force Evo, bought back in 2017 from a friend as a much-loved runner and survivor from the early 90s racing scene, this car got a quick refresh and new body and became my go-to chassis for vintage racing. It's done me proud for the last 4 years at the Iconic Revival, this year I was planning on giving it a break and running a modified Hotshot instead, as the TF is in need of some love, but the 2021 Revival is massively over-subscribed and the Hotshot class was fully booked, so I was lucky to scrape an entry into the early 90s class. My entry confirmation arrived on Saturday, so Sunday seemed the perfect day to drag the TFE off the shelf and give it a refresh. I've never fully documented it on TC, so here's a recap from the start - including as much as I know about the car from the person I bought it from. This is how it came to me in March 2017 - a wearing Top Force Evo body, Evo shock towers and modern alloy shocks. You may also spy a few alloy hop-ups and the rare white arms, lurking under the front gear case is a front one-way and under the body is what I believe to be a HPI chassis. The included electrics were no good to me as I race with LiPos and didn't have a Tx compatible with the old receiver, so it was stripped out and fitted with one of my older brushless systems and a Spektrum-compatible ORX receiver. Here we see it one month later, stripped of body and fitted with brushless power, and wearing some ancient Manta Ray wheels so I could test it on the tarmac without destroying my Schumacher race tyres. The car had a full strip, clean and rebuild. Some of the bearings were completely seized, some were loose and floppy, one wasn't even the right size and had been spinning freely on the prop drive for who knew how long. It ran well enough on the tarmac but I would need to wait until the Revival to see how well it went on track. First, it got a fresh coat of paint on a repro body. Here it is post-paint, sitting alongside my Buggy Champ, which would be my entry for the 2wd race. And finally - the fleet, ready to be boxed and loaded. Top Force Evo, Manta Ray spares car, King Blackfoot for the monster truck race, Wild Mini for the wheelie race, Rough Rider for 2wd race day and vintage SRB custom lightweight conversion as a spare car. This was Thursday 27th July, 2017, one day before I prepared to leave and 3 days before the Evo would have its first proper run on track.
  2. It's my first thread here in the forum, so I hope I can contribute something to this community. 2 weeks ago I purchased a used 58100 Top Force. On the pictures the car seems used, but could be easy rescued as a shelf queen. Since I was a kid, I always wanted a Top Force. But when the car was unboxed and inspected It seemed this wasn't a good deal. So, after the first shock the car was disassembled and the parts were cleaned in the sonic cleaner. The car must had a hard life. The front gearbox covers were red, all ball connectors have a lot of play, screws were missing, the chassisplates are yellowed, rear gearbox was cracked, front gears are damaged etc. Only to list a few. The plan to build it as a shelf queen is now obsolete. At the moment I think the best way will be to build it as a modified runner. If I would restore it to new, not much original parts will be left. The first parts were ordered when the car was on it's way to me. At this stage I thought these were the most parts I need The black front gearboxhousing will be used for my TA02 Racing Special replica as for a runner the black ones are to hard to get. I will use the silver gearboxes for the runner rebuild. For the FRP Plates I will check if I can produce these out of carbon on the CNC Mill.I also will test if the original Ball Diff aluminium parts could be lighten a few grams Let me know what you think about my thoughts? I'm open-minded for your suggestions.
  3. Time to start on the next build! Just waiting for my Castle 5700kv smart sense motor to come in, when paired with the Copperhead 10 ESC the motor adjusts timing as you drive and changes from sensored to sensorless after you launch! Been waiting a long time for this one to come in and very excited
  4. This is my DF01. It started life as TA01T? Porsche Cayenne, Which I built up about 10 years ago?? with some FRP chassis plate's and J parts taken from a Top Force ReRe, normal TA01 arms etc, and ran it as a drift car, with a GS300 Tamiya body. It sat dormant for quite some time, but after retiring it as a drift car I always had the idea to covert it into a buggy, and finally got around to it about 6 months ago as my re-introduction to the hobby and foray into more off-road. It has definitely been a pretty steep learning curve and a bit of a battle with reliability. But its at a point now where I have just enough skill and faith in the set up/potential to spend a little time/money doing a rebuild with some new parts and a couple of small improvements. The general gist is a rebuild with new chassis plates as the original ones are very worn, replace the gearbox's as they're both quite broken, which will give me a chance to prepare them properly for a little more reliability in that area. Will be adding a proper race esc, nicer servo, reposition the battery mounts for shorty lipo's, and replace all the bearings and most of the ball ends/nuts/cups. I'll also be taping all threads for machine screws and switching to hex, and making a rear skid plate which I'll also use to anchor the rear of the rear gearbox a bit better, which is an issue I haven't heard being spoken about really yet. It already has DF03 Aluminium dampers, gear diffs which I'll shim/rebuild with Tamiya AW grease, CVD's in the front and Tamiya uni's in the rear, and speed tuned gears which help get the car geared right for the 13.5t motor. I'm running a Plasma Edge/Gravel hound body currently, but I have a Top Force body on the way. Here is where I'm at today. Have done the drilling on the gear cases ready to cut some threads, have the old J parts ready to clean, and starting to have a look at positioning the battery. More over the next few days
  5. Hi , looking for a new in box re re top force if anyone has one to sell. Thanks
  6. Well seeing as I’m weak willed and fancied a birthday treat to myself I now have a Top Force. I see that there is a set of ‘hop up’ dampers available which whilst look blingier than the kit ones I wondering do they actually offer any benefits over the kit? I’m assuming the kit dampers are essentially CVA’s. They look a little different to the ones on my DT03 but not massively. Happy to be corrected on this point. However, assuming they are basically cva’s of I was to swap the single piece pistons for the piston shafts (anyone know the size) and 0-3 hole piston caps am I then pretty much at the same point as the hop ups apart from the body material? Moving on from that, I notice there appears to be no spring sets available, however I’ve seen it mentioned that the DF03 rears are the same so could I use springs off those shocks (would need two packs granted) or are they different diameter? I believe the DF03 hop up shocks are good apart from needing two sets to get the rears. What else is good? Or are the kit standard/cva’s just as good minus the bling? Finally. I have yet to do anything with the kit, but can anyone confirm the actual shock lengths. I’ve seen 85, 95 and 100mm stated. Thanks in advance.
  7. Yeah so It’s another Top Force build, big whoop wanna fight about it!? right now that’s out of my system, back in the game after more than a few years, and as even average runners of Madcaps and Terra conquerors are getting mad prices right now (plus are we really gonna see a re-re if either) I’ve gone for a Top Force kit. It’s currently stuck at a post office in Hong Kong due to Coronavirus a long with the basic essential hopups. So this is basically the teaser trailer.
  8. hi all, looking for a top force evolution box. please pm me if you have one to sell.
  9. Hi all! Another long-time lurker, first-time poster here and I'd like to share my 'Toppest Force' project that I've been veeery slowly cobbling together over the last 6 months or so. I've never actually owned an RC car, and as a kid drove my friends Hornet & Boomer and pored endlessly over Tamiya RC catalogues. So with no prior experience and nothing but faded memories from decades ago I though why not go all in and build a car with enough scope to: learn how to build & hop-up everything learn how to set one up learn how to charge lipos safely learn how to drive one (!) join a local RC club and learn how to race (!!) repeat when it falls to pieces... Anyways, long story short here's where I am: - got chassis built with every shiny thing that caught my eye - bought transmitter, receiver, esc, battery packs, charger etc. - not gone anywhere near prepping & painting the shell So as I am firmly in the build & setup part of the plan I have the following questions: I blindly built the shocks with no thought on length etc. just to get experience. I'm going to go back and build again, what length should the front & rear shock be? Any suggestion on starting shock positions/hole choices? I'm going to swap the Fibre Lyte custom front tower out for the Top Force Evo styled version as with these shocks none of the tower mounting holes actually make sense and just appear to be for show When I have sorted the shocks out what ride height should I be looking for? And that's adjusted by shock spring preload right? When assembled the UJs have about 3-4mm of float between the outside hub bearing and the hex adapter. I've put nylon shims in to remove all slop (look at last 2 photos) and everything seems fine; is that expected? The front hub has 4mm or so float up/down in the carrier; is that expected? I shimmed it out with nylon spacers again and its smooth with no play (you can see the chunk of white under the kingpins on the underside shot) but that seems really excessive to me. The carriers are Tamiya 53226 with Yeah Racing hubs. I tried the same setup with GPM hubs and even the red plastic ones from the kit with the same result. I bought both the Yeah Racing & GPM alloy steering sets but cannot for the life of me get either of them to fit. Has anybody worked it out and have a reference image for me to take reference from?
  10. Hi folks, Long time no see, hoping this message finds you all well. Ending this Sunday the 1st of December 2019 It is time to part with some of my much loved Tamiya Gems, it's short notice i know, but hopefully they will go to the right collector /enthusiast, these items will be sold to the highest bidder, if you win you are welcome to collect from Leeds Ls11 or they will be extremely carefully packed, fully insured and will need to be signed for on delivery. Very best of luck and big thanks Chris and Tamiya club. Kindest regards, Twisty (AKA Simon F) https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/anchordriver/m.html?item=184051509515&hash=item2ada53290b%3Ag%3AaD8AAOSwbXpdqyQU&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
  11. I have alot of incomplete threads on this forum so I thought I'd follow the lead of some of you. This will be my one go to thread to track all of my projects as I go. All of the projects are running now but are in various stages of their build. There is atleast one more that Im going to add in the near future but first I need to update you all on where is what in what stage. First up is the Astute. The Astute is the first Hobby Grade RC I got. I spent a summer doing chores for my Grandfather to save up for it. AFter about 27 years of neglect I decided to bring it back, man I am really that old. Ill update that thread one more time, Ill post the finish goods here as well. First the group shot!
  12. So after seeing all the builds going on now related to the DF-01 Chassis I thought just as well that I should finally build me a DF-01 runner. I could have made Terra Conqueror, but the Top Force body are more my style. I do have a box of parts, and 2 1/2 donor cars, that I meant to use as a runner project. This is one of my donor cars The first thing I started with was thinking that I wanted carbon fiber front and rear shock towers so I took my Top Force from the shelf and used the shock towers from it as a template. Then I drew the shock towers onto the carbon fiber After doing this, I suddenly remembered that I do have a Top Force Evolution and that one has other towers, so.. After some cutting with my Dremel saw and some sanding with my Dremel Then some more fine adjustments (I did do even more adjustments after this picture) I wanted to remove the plastic for holding the speed servo and MSC and replace it with a carbon fiber upper deck. When I built my hop-up Terra Conqueror I did buy 3 tree's of these, just knowing that I would get use for em some day. This time i used the upper deck from the Top Force because I didn't want to risk scratching or something like that on the Evolution upper deck In order to be able to mount it, i decided to cut the standard upper deck It will look like this when mounted, I also made a carbon fiber part to fit in the standard upper deck Then I just had to test mount the shock towers Then I couldn't resist testing the body also I forgot to mention that, I'm still not sure if I will be using these gear box's or not, will need to see status on them first. I might use the red one's if they are ok.
  13. Well here we are again, and so soon too! The DT03 has well and truly been pinched off me by my daughters so seeing as I was unsure whether to go 2wd or 4wd when I started out I knew I’d be building a 4wd sooner rather than later. The sooner came a lot sooner than expected when I very impulsively bought a Top Force 2017 re-re as a early birthday treat to myself. I did at least look at some pictures first. That counts as research right?! Anyway I blame @Phil5556 for posting about his purchase 😂 So, most parts have arrived and seeing as I enjoyed doing the build on the DT03 and the insight I gained from you lot whilst doing so figured seeing as I like to photo it anyway for myself then why not do another. As the title says, this won’t be no shelf queen. I’ve no history with R/C or Tamiya so no nostalgia. It will be built and abused. There will be bling, most probably needless, but hey, that’s part of the fun for me. So then, for starters... Couldnt believe the size of the box. Dwarfs the DT03 box. Boxes inside boxes. That’ll account for the size then! Actually prefer this type of packaging but I guess not very efficient way of doing things. Thats it for now. Hopefully the postman will finally bring the one last package I’m waiting for and the fun can begin. Caveat. This one will be slower than the DT03. Thats still the main focus as the kids use it. This is my bit on the side!
  14. Hi team. Well as a few of you would have followed I talked myself into another two buggies this week (Black Friday global sales have KILLED my credit card!) One of the said purchases was the stunning Top Force 2017 re-re! I've been trawling the forum and posts and have tried to the best of my ability to work out what the best upgrades are for this beast but am admittedly a little confused in some / all areas! My aim is to make her fast and handle well. She will be tracked, but not competitively. The questions for the brains trust as follows: 1. Are the TA03 Ball diffs the preferred upgrade to the standard diffs? What is the actual difference between them and the stock Top Force and Manta Ray ball diffs? Manta Ray seems to not have the thrust bearings if I am not mistaken? But looking at the manual, doesn't it come stock with ball diffs? (Page 4 - https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/47350.pdf) If it does, then I feel prettttttttty silly for researching so much but seems to me like everyone wants the ball diffs so there must be a difference? I looked through this thread: And this thread: 2. I would KILL for the Tamiya Hi-Caps, but MY GOD they are now hard to find and if you do, the extortion money being demanded is SO offensive. People have talked a lot about the Tamiya Big Bore Dampers as potentially the best, but again, they're extremely expensive. Any other thoughts on how to get a hold of nice looking, aluminium dampers that are an upgrade to the stock or is this simply a case of "forget about it JD, you have to bite the bullet and pay the CASH!!!!!!!" Are the DF-03 #53926 a good option? If yes, anyone ever remove the blue anodising? 3. This thread is OBVIOUSLY amazing: But there are so many mods, to try to replicate it would cost triple the buggy these days. Out of them all, what would be the most critical? Universal shafts, aluminium hex adapters, lightweight 4WD shaft, aluminium motor mount etc? Thanks guys, I know a lot of this is relatively well-trodden, but from the guys who know the platform well, have been down this path before and can help with the "essentials" and a couple of "nice to haves" it'll certainly help! Build thread next!
  15. Hello all, feeling all nostalgic I have just bought myself a re-re-release Top Force. It's on the way, should be here next week I've been looking around the forum and have gleaned a few bits of useful info so far, some of them bringing back memories of 20 years ago (broken front gearbox covers, stripped pinions, melted together Tamiya plugs etc). I want to build a reasonably quick (but still reliable) solid car to run and have some fun with. Hoping someone could double check what I'm about to buy before I spend on the wrong bits..... 1. Ball races - I understand the 2017 is already ballraced so all good? Not included, ordered. 2. Nylon gear set. Is this the right one? 50529 eBay Link Ordered 3. Gearbox through bolts. On the rear top cover and top left of the rear diff cover. Should I just do them from the outset? Any others to do? M3 screws and nylocs ordered. Pretty sure I have an M3 tap. 4. Front diff cover. I remember replacing this a couple of times after crashing. Should I just get the aluminium one? Keeping standard for now 5. Alloy motor mount. Struggling to find a one piece one - any links please? Otherwise a 3 piece one and some loctite should do yes? Ordered a 3 piece one. Have some permanent loctite 6. Recommended motor & speed controller (I'd like reverse if possible)? Probably brushless to run with 7.2v NiMHs. Quick but not self destructing quick. (I do remember my old car being quick, at times probably too quick, but fun). I do have a an HPI 15T Firebolt can motor that I can put in for now (and an LRP ESC). 7. I've found the RW steel pinions from Modelsport. What size for the motor that you recommend please? And what size for the 15T firebolt if that's a goer? Ordered 17,18,19 I'm in the UK so links that ship here please Thanks a lot, sorry that my opening post is a load of questions!
  16. After spending a long time digging through threads, trying to find a comprehensive list of all the period Hop-Ups for the DF01/TA01 platform and its descendants, I realized there were none. So I decided to make my own. I used futureworks' list as a base and expanded it from there. It's still in progress, but its sorted by manufacturer, and I'm trying to get a link for an image of each hop up, preferably in original packaging for each item. I have used the exact terminology that Tamiya used for naming each Hop-Up. I hope this is helpful for people who want to make a "checklist" of sorts for their cars, or for others like me, who just wanted to see what was out there for this chassis. Please let me know if you have any additions or suggestions, or if you have any corrections. Period Correct TA01/TA02/Manta Ray/Dirt Thrasher/Blazing Star/Top-Force Hop Ups Limited Edition Anodized Aluminum 49068 Aluminum King Pins (Blue) (same as 53157) 49092 Aluminum Servo Stay (Blue) (same as 53308) 49096 Aluminum Servo Stay (Pink) (same as 53308) 49098 TA03 Universal Drive Shaft (1 Pair) (Pink) (same as 53310, but Pink Ltd. Ed.) 49099 TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set (Silver & Blue) (same as 53280) 49100 TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set (Silver & Pink) (same as 53280) 49101 Aluminum King Pins (Pink) (same as 53157) Limited Edition Plastics 49543 4WD Touring & Rally Car Fluorescent Yellow Suspension Arms 49544 4WD Touring & Rally Car Fluorescent Green Suspension Arms 49545 Fluorescent Green Adjuster Set 49546 Fluorescent Pink Adjuster Set 49547 4WD Touring & Rally Car Fluorescent Yellow Gear Case Set (F & R) 49548 4WD Touring & Rally Car Fluorescent Green Gear Case Set (F & R) 49549 4WD Fluorescent Gear Case (Pink) 49550 Manta Ray TA01 Fluorescent Yellow Chassis 49551 Manta Ray TA01 Fluorescent Orange Chassis 49552 Manta Ray TA01 Fluorescent Green Chassis 49553 Fluorescent High Torque Servo Saver Set (Yellow) 49554 Fluorescent High Torque Servo Saver Set (Green) 49555 4WD FF Touring Car Fluorescent Orange Damper Spring 49556 4WD FF Touring Car Fluorescent Green Damper Spring 49557 4WD Rally Car Fluorescent Yellow Damper Spring 49558 4WD Rally Car Fluorescent Pink Damper Spring 49559 4WD/FWD Touring & Rally Car Plated Mesh Wheels 49560 4WD/FWD Touring & Rally Car Plated Spoke Wheels 49567 TRF Acto tuned motor 49572 TA01 Chassis White Suspension Arms (F & R) 49573 TA02 Chassis White Suspension Arms (F & R) 49574 FWD Touring Car White Suspension Arms (F & R) 49575 Manta Ray White Suspension Arms (F & R) 49576 Castrol Celica Chrome Plated Wheel 4pc 49577 CVA Mini Shock Unit Set II White 49578 4WD TA02 & FWD Car Super White Chassis 49579 4WD TA02 & FWD Car Fluorescent Orange Chassis 53024 Aluminum Flange Lock Nut 53029 1150 Sealed Ball Bearing Set (2 pcs.) 53030 850 Sealed Ball Bearing Set (4 pcs.) (for servo hinges on 53166) 53042 Ball Diff Grease 53056 Pin Type Wheel Adapter (aluminum wheel hexes) 53068 RS-540 Sport Tuned Motor 53070 Manta Ray Ball Diff Set 53071 Manta Ray Torque Splitter Set 53072 Manta Ray Differential Ball & Plate Set 53073 Manta Ray Ball Bearing Set 53079 Manta Ray Stainless Steel Propellor Shaft Set 53095 3x10mm Titanium Tapping Screw (10 pcs.) 53098 4WD Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set 53099 Manta Ray F.R.P. Double-Deck Chassis Set 53100 Top-Force Carbon Graphite Chassis Set 53112 Top-Force Aluminum Pressure Plate Set 53115 Skyline GT-R Universal Shaft Set 53118 Skyline GT-R Hard Joint Cup Set 53124 3mm Tungsten-Carbide Diff Ball Set 53127 Skyline Speed Tuned Gear Set 53131 Skyline GT-R Aluminum Mesh Wheels 53140 Skyline GT-R Aluminum 6-Spoke Wheels 53141 4WD Touring & Rally Car Lightweight King Pins 53142 Touring & Rally Car Aluminum Motor Mount 53143 4WD Rally Car Skid Guard Set 53144 Touring & Rally Car Bushing & Ball Connector Set 53145 4WD Touring & Rally Car Urethane Bumper Set 53153 Acto-Power Touring Special Motor 53152 TA02 Short Type Hard Propeller Shaft 53155 Low Friction Aluminum Damper Set (Pink Std., Blue & Black Ltd. Ed.) 53156 4WD/FWD Touring & Rally Car Hard Inner Sponge Set 53157 4WD TA02/FWD Chassis Aluminum King Pins 53161 Aluminum Flange Lock Nut (Gold) 53162 Aluminum Flange Lock Nut (Black) 53163 On-Road Tuned Spring Set (4WD/FWD Touring & Rally Car) 53164 Touring & Rally Car Hollow Carbon Gear Shaft Set 53166 4WD TA02/FWD Chassis F.R.P. Chassis Set 53167 4WD Touring & Rally Car Bearing Set (TA02 Chassis) 53172 4WD TA02/FWD Chassis Universal Shaft Set 53189 4WD Touring & Rally Car Rear Stabilizer Set 53191 4WD/FWD Front Turnbuckle Tie-Rod Set 53192 Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set 53193 FRP Front Damper Stay 53194 FRP Rear Damper Stay 53195 4WD/FWD Carbon Chassis Plates 53200 4WD Front One-way Diff Unit 53209 1/10 Touring & Rally Car Shaped Tire Insert (1 Pair) 53216 1/10 Touring & Rally Car Shaped Tire Insert, Wide (1 Pair) 53217 Touring Car Hard Joint Cup Set (For Ball Diff) (replace 53267) 53218 Touring Car Hard Joint Cup Set (For Gear Diff) 53219 1/10 Touring Car Aluminum Pressure Plate Set 53226 1/10 Touring Car Aluminum Front Hub Carrier (1 Pair) 53227 1/10 4WD/FWD Touring Car M2 Radial Tires (1 Pair) 53280 TA03 Super Low Friction Aluminum Damper Set 53310 TA03 Universal Drive Shaft (1 Pair) (same as 53172, except w/ blue anodized collar) 53325 TA03 Aluminum Knuckle Arms 53642 5mm Ball connector Blue 53596 Aluminum Servo Stays (Short) 58157 TA02 Special Chassis --- Aftermarket AR Products TA-06L TA-10 TA-14 TA-20 Tamiya TA01 Top Force King Pin Cross TR-15FP Strong Front Lower Suspension Arms Upper Links TA01 TR32 Suspension Arm TR32UF Tamiya TA02 Front Universal Shaft For Cross TR32 Susp Arm HPI 6124 HPI Front One way for Tamiya TA01 TA02 6400 Rear Lowering set for Tamiya 4WD 6410 Front Lowering set for Tamiya 4WD 8011 Tamiya 4wd fiberglass chassis set HJ060 Tamiya TA02 Chassis (longitudinal battery) Kawada TU-07 Tamiya TA01 Tie Rod Set TU-10 Tamiya TA01 Aluminum Rear Sus Arm TU-11 Tamiya TA01 Adjustable Upper Arm TU-13 Tamiya TA01 Turnbuckle Tie Rod Set TU-?? Tamiya TA01 Aluminum Front Sus Arm Kose K-0810 Universal Shaft. Long Suspension Arm (Tamiya TA01, FF01) K-1104 One Way Joint Cup (Tamiya TA01 TA02 TA02W) K-1552 Titanium King Pin (Tamiya TA01 Series) K-1902 Front One-Way Unit (Tamiya TA01, TA02, TA02W) MRE TA02 Nitro Conversion P&C Racing TA2048 Tamiya TA02/FF Anodized Alloy Steering Assembly Rainbow Products TC-010 Alum Rear Upper Arm (Tamiya TA01) TC-012 Alloy Spindle (Tamiya TA01) TC-014 Alum Front Upper Arm (Tamiya TA01) TC-016 Body Lifter (Tamiya TA01) TC-032 Side Protector (Tamiya TA01) Tech Racing TFF-14 Tamiya FWD FF01 TA02 Complete Rear Upper Suspension Links TSC-2F Front Universal Shaft (Tamiya TA01) TSC-9W Super Tie Rod Set (Tamiya TA01) TSC-11 Tamiya TA02 TA01 4WD Prerunner Front Strut Bar Brace TSC-16 Adjustable Upper Link, Rear (Tamiya TA01) Thunder Tiger 6118-A TA02 Gas Conversion Kit Tobee Craft Screws Other Tamiya RC CARS Bible Catalog TA01 TA02 4WD Rally & FF FWD 1995 Volume-2
  17. Brand new Top Force parts from a re-release kit - top & bottom chassis plates, battery plates & front & rear shock towers. £35 posted in UK Selling as have built my Top Force with Fibre Lyte parts instead.
  18. As much as I enjoyed building my first carbon chassis, I've decided for the mucking about that I do I really don't need it. So, here is my Fibre-Lyte carbon chassis kit which I built into a DF01 Terra Conqueror this summer. It's the Fibre-Lyte CSC/Carbon6 material, mixture of carbon and glass which is tougher than both and lighter and stiffer than FRP still. Comes with full Top Force metal parts, and all appropriate fixings and J-Parts. Includes 850 bearing'd steering arms, and full carbon Fibre Lyte battery straps for a stick pack. The battery posts are still on the J sprue for if you want to run saddle packs, but you'd need new battery straps for that. I've purposefully left the shock towers out of this kit so someone with a TA01 could get this too without having random buggy bits. It's only been run once very briefly without an undercowl, then about 10 times with an undercowl fitted running on grass. There's a couple of marks on the underside, but mostly mint. There are some scuffs and marks on the aluminium uprights where I had to grip them with pliers to tighten them up, and there's some tape residue from my Rx. Not shelfer material then, but great for a vintage racer project or just to have some very nice bits on your Manta Ray/Blazing Star/Top Force/TA01. Whole lot new would cost around £95. Anyone going to give me £70 posted? Going to leave it on here for a couple of days, but if it's not gone I'll pop it on ebay. Cheers Cy
  19. Genuine Tamiya Top Force undercowl as used on my Terra Conqueror carbon chassis. Been run on tarmac very occasionally and grass about 10 times. Painted metallic black, bit scuffed, cut as high as possible to get to my Terra Conqueror shell, so could be trimmed and neatened up for a Top Force. They're £16 new and then there's paint on top of that. Anyone give me £12 posted? Going on here for a couple of days then I'll sling it on ebay. Cheers Cy
  20. Project Terra Conqueror Evo is tip-toeing to completion, and for the first time on a buggy I have options for the position of the inboard top suspension link because I've installed the Top Force FRP suspension mountings. I currently have the rear set in the top centre hole which makes the top and bottom suspension arms parallel. There are two other holes, both lower, 1 inboard, 1 outboard. What is the effect of using one of these other holes? I can see it would lower the instant centre of the suspension, but not sure why this would be good? Cheers!
  21. Got a project on. Started out with a mint Blazing Star DF01 and tonight I installed the gearboxes onto a Fibre Lyte carbon chassis lower deck. I got the proper Top Force parts bag with the chassis deck mounting and the upgraded stainless prop shaft. Only problem is that it appears to be about 10mm too short when I try to install it with the carbon chassis. Is the fibre Lyte chassis longer wheelbase than the top force? Or are the prop shaft gearbox out drives different on the top force compared to the Blazing Star/Manta Ray/regular DF01? Can't understand why it wouldn't fit. I am on holiday with only the parts to build the car so I don't have the original coat hanger shaft to compare it with. Any suggestions?
  22. I have a TA01 with an FRP chassis which I have previously used from drifting. Among a collection also including a TA02 and TA03F with much the same purpose and spec. The TA01 is the least relevant to me, and poorest performing of the 3 (although they do all have their unique traits which are fun). So what to do with it? Well the title makes that obvious, but I'd like to think there are a few people here who'd have the same idea. Built originally from a Cayenne kit, so has the "correct" black gearboxes. The FRP chassis is assembled from broken down Top Force Re-Re parts from Ebay. So I do have the rest of the essential J parts and mount bag parts. I haven't decided quite yet to what extent I'll compromise on using kit correct parts, but it will be a runner, so no real point being super picky. At first it will be Black Star dish rear wheels front and rear, and OP84 Square Spike tyres. For damper's i'm considering TGM02 Aluminum damper set 53545. These are a little more period looking, much cheaper than Hicaps, but a tiny bit too long at 100mm. They look like Gold 53280 Super Low Friction Dampers to me, just longer, so I think they would work well, but not sure if i shorten them with spacers if they'll have enough travel left. Other than that the new aeration buggy dampers that come in pairs and I've found similarly priced, I'm sure these are awesome but i'd prefer something without a threaded body.. I could also settle for something cheaper. Body is probably the part i'm least sure about. I'll probably end up with 2. A box art Top Force and custom Gravel Hound or Sand Viper runner body. Here's how it looks now.
  23. As title. I am aware of the Fibre-Lyte parts, thought I'd try my luck here first. The Press Parts Bag would be the ultimate, as I do need the wing stay and battery plates too (kinda). I'm after a fair few other DF01 parts too, converting a TA01 with FRP chassis to DF01. Cheers.
  24. For Sale I have a few Sealed Nib DT03 Neo Fighters They come with ESC, oil shocks and torque tuned motor £59 delivered in the UK Tamiya Universals, new but not in packaging £10 each inc. UK shipping Suitable for Boomerang, Thundershot, Top Force, Blitzer beetle, DT02, DT03 (DT02/3 both also need metal gearbox joints) 1x Sealed Nib Fighting Buggy (Super Champ) 84389 £239 inc. UK delivery 1x Super Dragon bodyset, near mint from 1989, suitable for Hornet,GH2 and tshot chassis £125 inc. UK shipping
  25. Hi, In an old RRC magazine there was a toy fair that featured Tamiya team cars the Astute and Top Force. I think they were Alan Harmans. The Top Force below was featured in a RRC magazine. Has anyone seen any info on the Team car Astute that partnered it, it had the same Mclaren Marlborough livery? http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa378/percymon/58100%20Tamiya%20Top%20Force/TRF1.jpg Thanks, Andy
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