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  1. A couple of months I decided to push the boat out and treat myself to a Globe Liner. It was originally with the intention of building a 6wd off road lorry with walking beams fitted to a single rear axle. When the kit arrived from Fusion Hobbies, I thought I would put it together as a stock kit initially, then modify it at a later stage. However, once I started building it I decided that I liked it as the stock kit, so ended up 'completing' the build within a couple of weeks, to the standard of a completed rolling chassis. So this thread is not a blow by blow description of a standard build, as there are probably loads of those floating in the internet already, this is just some details on what I did differently. Along the way I made only a few mods, I fitted a set of roller bearings, made some custom exhausts and a new billet aluminium bumper, and a new pivot shaft for the rear leaf springs. Custom pivot shaft vs stock: As well as the stock shaft having one of the leaf spring pivot sitting on a portion of the thread, it was also a bit on the thin side: Whereas the one I made was properly the 3mm that the brass bushes are bored to: Fitted Aluminium Bumper The aluminium bumper was machined out on my milling machine and then polished with 2000 & 4000 grit wet and dry in a bowl of warm soapy water. The reason I made my own bumper was that I didn't want a plastic bumper that once scratched would show black plastic through the chrome, and also, quite a few years ago, I had a King hauler, and when I ran that I found the licence plates scraped the floor when going over a any slightly damaged surface, causing the light lenses to fly out, so I wanted a bumper with a bit more ground clearance. Sure it would have been easier to just chop the licence plates off the stock bumper, but that would have shown up bare plastic under the chrome. Custom Exhausts When I built the War Rig I had a degree of success making exhaust tails from polished steel tube using a Draper miniature pipe bender, so thought I would have another go at it for this model. It ended up being a right pain and took me about 6 attempts to get a decent results. The first problem was that I couldn't remember what metal I'd used to make the originals with. I did have a small piece left over from the War Rig pipes, but ballsed it up on the first attempt so no metal to use. As such, I bored out some 10mm steel bar on the lathe so that it had 0.5mm wall thickness and tried that. It collapsed when I tried to bend it. So I then tried 1mm wall thickness and the benders nearly broke trying to bend it even slightly (There is a big warning on them saying only use for copper pipe ). Then I remembered that I'd used some B&Q 10mm pipe for the War Rig pipes. This isn't that same quality as the engineering steel I'd been gifted before (The B&Q stuff is I think formed from sheet and then welded, rather than the seamless round bar.). Finally success, I managed to bend the pipes without the bender exploding, and I was able to finish the pipes off by shaping the ends with the milling machine. I also added a couple of peelers vintage decals to the mudflaps: A proper universal joint between the drive axles, which I got from Prices Model Trucks on ebay: and a Tamiya driver figure: After I'd put all this together, of course I wanted a trailer for it as well. Now IMO, 1/14 trailers are eye wateringly expensive for what they are, so I initially thought I build my own. A quick investigation on Ebay revealed that even buying cheap Chinese 1/14 tires, the rear suspension and shocks and a light bar was going to set me back almost as much as a Tamiya flatbed trailer. So I bought a Tamiya flatbed trailer instead, initially thinking I'd strip it for parts and make a slightly longer log trailer from B&Q box section and 2 left over frame rails I had from when I made the war rig trailer incorrectly and used frame rails that were too shallow. Another order to Fusion Hobbies and the trailer promptly arrived in the post. Looking through the box I mostly liked what I saw so decided to build it almost as stock and then do another trailer at a later date. After emptying the contents of the box, I was a bit disappointed with the quality of the plastic used to mould the rear light cluster and the bolster pins that run down the side of the trailer. It's coloured in a horrible gunmetal metallic-ish finish, so I decided to spray the lot matt black. Whilst I was at it, I didn't think that the bare metal finish of the aluminium parts looked particularly realistic either, so ended painting the underside parts in matt black as well (whilst having flashbacks to the War Rig build lol ). The plate at the front of the trailer I painted the same red as tractor unit, as well as the aluminium L section that runs down the sides. I also decided at this point that I wanted to add lights to the trailer, including side running lights, so after much work and rework (I'd initially wired all the LEDs up in parallel which I later found out from friends with more knowledge than me that that would probably cause the resistors to melt), I got to this stage. This got me point of having the rear lights, 12 orange side lights, 2 indicators, and brake lights wired in. As I was going to make the lights work, I didn't really want the 3 central lights to be decals, so, I drilled the rear panel and made a small plastic mount to clamp in the 3 LEDs: After that I was able to finally fit the wood to the trailer bed (The trailer had been worked on for about 3-4 weeks by now, and it should have taken about a day to assemble without painting or adding lights. I was a bit of a doughnut however, because when I first built the trailer I didn't follow (i.e. read carefully) the instructions, nor did I build it in order, so had the whole thing more or less assembled apart from the wood bed and the leg activation mechanism, when I discovered I'd put the main bottom plate in upside down (Hence the reason the lower plate is painted matt black on the inside with 2 aluminium speed stripes !) and had to dismantle and re-assemble the trailer. In order to get the lights to work, I didn't want to spend mega bucks on an MFU or the stock Tamiya lights kits, so bought a 3Racing unit instead for £15 and about 90 LEDs off Ebay for less than a tenner. I used 26gauge silicon wire for the wiring, which is nice and flexible. To connect up all these LEDs, I ended up putting the LEDs in banks of 3 in series, then connecting the banks up in series. For the indicators, I connected the main 5mm LEDS in the trailer in series, and 5mm Leds in the rear lights clusters in the tractor unit is series, then connected the trailer and tractor unit LEDs in parallel. This was then all connected in series with the small 3mm orange LEDs used to operate the tractor unit front indicators. To connect the trailer lighting to the tractor unit, I bought some Dupont connectors from Ebay (2x5 configuration), and then used the same connectors on the cab lighting, to make it easy to disconnect the cab from the tractor unit. Finally a loom was fitted into the tractor unit to connect the Dupont sockets to the 3racing light unit. Oh, and I also made up shorter Y leads to connect the light unit to the receiver, ESC, and steering servo. Cab Wiring Some of the chassis wiring Dupont connector used to connect trailer. The finished effect:
  2. Here's a project that's been sitting at the back of my brain ever since I've built the Pajero. When I finished that car I added a trailer hitch point, but never really used it for anything. But, I've since acquired a bit more courage to scratchbuild stuff, and a pile of brass tubing. I'm planning to build something like this: Not too complicated, and since these things lead a rough life I can be a bit sloppy and it'll still look decently realistic. I'm doing this in three phases. First and foremost I'll build the deck. Once that's finished I'll work out a way to make it to move, and then find some way to attach it to the car. The Pajero has a tow hitch attachment point, and I'll build a ball receiver for it when it's all said and done. In terms of size, I'm going with a deck of 200mm by 400mm. Larger real trailers are around that size, and it fits my 195ishmm wide touring cars well. For wheels and tires I'll be using M-chassis 60Ds. Those will net me a realistic size for the usually 14 or 15 inch trailer wheels. I've noticed that American trailers have these distinct white spoke wheels, but I'm shooting for Euro-style steelies: I'm thinking either the Alfa Giulia wheels, or the ubiquitous VW Beetle wheels spraypainted either silver or white. Anyway, onto the actual build!
  3. Been working on this little project as a side-line over the last few weeks. Home life is crazy busy, work is manic and 99% of my other unfinished projects are waiting for warmer weather so I can start painting properly, but this is something that I can just sit and hack quietly at during lunchbreaks and on the odd spare evening. It's a 1:16 toy-grade low loader made by Bruder. For those not familiar, they're a very popular conversion for 1:14 low loaders because they're cheap, well detailed and easily extended. My local trucking clubs have got a few custom trailers based on the Bruder chassis. First thing is to extend the chassis so it's long enough to load a race truck onto, and still have space left for a pit garage. I didn't want to go overboard in length because our club layouts can be quite tight but wanted enough to look proper. Overall length is about the same as my 40' container trailer. I didn't bother to photo every stage and I won't bother to document it either - if you want some good advice on extending a Bruder, this is the tutorial I used: http://www.acbruderspares.co.uk/how-to-extend-a-low-loader-part-1-1.html So far I've fitted a Bruder-to-Tamiya kingpin set from eBay, and extended the chassis... and started filling in the floor with plasticard. Another sheet is needed to level it off, then I'll have to work out how I'm going to finish it to look good. Today I ordered an OB-1 wireless trailer light system and a set of motorised support legs, so in theory I can hitch and unhitch without having to walk across the layout to unplug wires. Fitting the motorised legs to the Bruder chassis might be interesting - I've never fitted a set before and don't really know how they work. I was going to go with an SS-tronix wireless system which has an option to remotely control the support legs without using the bulky Tamiya setup, but unfortunately SS-tronix aren't currently taking new orders. I don't think the OB-1 has the facility to control the support legs. I'm heading home in a few minutes to get another bit of plasticard on the deck, that should level it off nicely. I guess then I'll start thinking about a frame for the pit garage.
  4. Has anyone used the OB1 wireless trailer light kit with Tamiya motorised support legs? I see the OB1 transmitter has a connection to J9 on the MFC for support legs, but I can't tell what this actually means on the OB1 receiver - is there an option for output to the support leg motor directly from the OB1 receiver, or is it just for lighting functionality? My custom race trailer build has stalled because I don't know if I need to fit the rather ugly bulky mechanical switch box to the kingpin to operate the motorised support legs as per a normal installation, or if I can control the legs electronically from the OB1. If I can go wireless then that's totes awesome, all I need to do is mount legs and motor. If I have to fit the switch mechanism then I'll have to royally hack the front end of my trailer apart to make it fit. I ordered an OB1 wireless kit a few weeks back but there's been a delay in getting stock so I can't progress with my project - could still be a week or two before I get my hands on an OB1 and I'm struggling to find a full manual online...
  5. Aristocraft Draggin Wagon Trailer Attachment for Tamiya/Traxxas/Kyosho : Looks interesting, maybe something like a tractor pull sled .. anyone know anymore about this item ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Aristo-Craft-Draggin-Wagon-R-C-Pulling-sled-Tamiya-Traxxas-Kyosho-NEW-/351397490994?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276 Not mine BTW
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