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Found 24 results

  1. Hi everyone, I recently bought the Audi Quattro TT-02 and naturally wanted more ground clearance. So I modified the chassis as suggested by Mark Bryan on YT. Right now clearance is a bit over 20 mm which is enough for the moment since I do not want to touch drive shafts and cups. However, bottoming out the super mini CVA shocks now leaves a 5 mm air gap below the chassis. I'm fairly new to RC cars but understood that the chassis should bottom out before the shocks. Presumeably to not overstrain the shock mounts? Anyway, I do not intend to hit large jumps with this car but will this be a problem in the long run? What are my options? Either increase leverage ratio via the lower suspension arm which I do not think is possible or find a shock with the same length (~59 mm) and longer stroke? Thanks Karsten
  2. I saw this TT-02 Belt Drive kit on AliEpress. It is inexpensive, interesting or as Spock would call it "fascinating"! Soooooo, i ordered one! I have built five tt-02 cars using tips I have found on this forum which from my first build made them all better than they would have been from just using the manual. I have come up with a few things myself which I would like to share when time allows (like the motor air scoop accepts a 30mm fan and does very well to cool your motor when a fan is used ! Why Tamiya doesn't mention this is beyond me) ...more to come; but back to this belt thangy! It looks to be of fairly good quality and since I am currently building a rally tt-02 and my first TT-02B i will try it in one or the other and report back.
  3. As a kid I had a TA-02 and after that a FF-01 just to stare at. Many years later I picked up a set and these are the results. TT-02 Audi quattro gr.b & FF-03 Opel Vectra JTCC Both are tweaked with some nice leds ( I dislike the bright white ones but these look good ) the sets Both amazing looking cars. ( the TT-02 was a impulse buy & and FF-03 I bought afterwards because I always like the Opel Vectra from the FF-01 time ) 'was a hard find for me but got extremely lucky' Opel & Audi Opel & Audi Back The Opel is based on a street version without decals ( I have used no original decal of the set only window tape off and lights custom stickered from the inside ) The body has made so carefully in mind that if I do not like it I have everything to make it as it should be with the included set 'who knows' Lights front Lights back & Finally the chassis of these lovely cars Chassis 1 Chassis 2 The TT-02 is an amazing rally car, but even as a kid I remember the TA-02 was more of a buggy type with good parts on the set ( FF-01 also ) Did many runs and many things broke down, every time I improvised or upgraded what I could ( front steering links a weak point for harsh grippy rally ) The FF-03 did not go on a test drive yet ( I have had many alignment issues and rookie mistakes to fix ) the Opel I want to replicate Tamiya ps-23 gun metal gray is used for the body with ps-5 black on top of that. Br Longcat
  4. I loved the retro Porsche 911 Safari cars and when the TT-02 RSR was released it clicked! Here is a simple TT-02 build. Car has been completed prior to the write up but I will try to map out the steps I took should you want to try something similar. Many thanks to a few people in the “what did I do today” group for help This build is low budget with no major hop-ups. Items include: TT-02 car kit bearings Subrau Brat tires 2 pairs of CVA dampers 18 pinion gear 35T Yeah Racing crawler motor Yeah Racing roof rack with LED 934 Porsche light bucket kit and LED kit Paint Hobbywing ESC Waterproof servo TT01 Truck foam bumper Edited: Cover photo updated
  5. Hi. About a year ago, I purchased the Audi Quattro Rally TT-02. My goal for this build is to make the car as if it were on a tarmac stage. This means the car will be in 'low ride height spec'. Sorry, no rally blocks here. Some pics of what I'm going for: I'm also going to try to make it handle and drive in a 'scale' way. I want the car to pitch, buck, lean, roll and understeer (a bit) just like the real Quattro did. To accomplish this, I'll probably be adding some extra weight to the car. In terms of modifications or hop-ups, there won't be that many. I'm want to run the car stock, and slowly add to it to see what difference they actually make. The upgrades I've purchased are: 1. Bearing set 2. Low friction suspension balls 3. 68T high speed spur 4. Aluminuminuummumm driveshaft 5. CVA super minis 6. Turnbuckle steering tie-rods (more on this later ) 7. Different wheels with a touch more offset. I've noticed the TT-02 sits slightly higher at the front when built. To fix this, I trimmed on of the tabs on the rear lower suspension arms to make it sit a bit more level. Here is a pic of where the build stands now: Unfortunately, I was installing the turnbuckle tie rods the other day and snapped both the metal ball ends. The remaining threads are lodged firmly in the uprights so Ive had to order a new parts tree. I've tried to remove them but so far nothing has worked. I'll probably just revert back to the stock steering arms. I don't really need the turnbuckle system for what I'm trying to accomplish. Lesson learned. While waiting for the new parts, I'll probably begin to tackle the body. I'll post updates as soon as they happen. Any questions, suggestions, critiques are more than welcome. Thanks, guys.
  6. Just got my TT-02 in the mail the other day! Going to get paint tomorrow and more parts soon. Hopefully this will help others with rally built TT-02's!
  7. Man I've been here frequently... Anyway! I got some 60mm shocks and the Tamiya hard tuned spring kit for my TT-02 that I'm building for rally and was wondering which density springs to use where? I was thinking medium in the front and hard in the back but I really don't know... Does anyone know what should go where?
  8. I may want to increase the rear track width on my TT-02 Audi Quattro. The wheels sit quite far inside the body, especially in the rear. I've purchased the Ford Focus WRC wheels which have a bit more offset and help a little. As many know, not all the TT-02 kits come with the wider axles. I haven't decided if I want to go all the way, but if I did, is this the parts tree (x2 ?) I need to increase it further? https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-tt-02-cup-joint-c-parts-51529-00036358
  9. I think this is the right place to post this so, I'm looking at getting a dust cover for my TT-02 but I'm wondering, will the motor and ESC get hot? Just pure plastic and not even mesh seems weird...
  10. Attention rally enthousiasts, I am searching for a servo for my TT-02 rally car to replace the Futaba 9551 that's in it. It's probably not the best choice and anyway it is needed in a different car. The car sees a lot of dust and small rocks but no moisture. I'm not racing (what a dream if we could race rally cars over here...) but I like to lap around my own home made off-road tracks. I prefer a low profile servo but a standard would also fit. In terms of performance I'm not so concerned with speed and torque but more with having very little backlash. Any hints anyone?
  11. Hello, Anyone who has the Quadtrack manual, would you be willing to share an electronic version? It's baffling Tamiya in the last 12 months has slowed down launching manuals online, we used to get them a month or so before launch but it's been four months and I still can't find one.......just want to have a look before purchase
  12. There are two recent variants of the TT-02 Type S worth considering for this; the standard kit (58600) which remains widely available and if you can still find one, the drift spec kit (47301). I purchased the TT-02D Type S because it was on offer at £99 (not to be confused with the standard non Type S TT-02 drift chassis 58584). I decided to build this rally car from the Type S chassis kit simply to see how good it would be and to answer many of the common questions which appear on here and in other forums on the suitability of the Type S for rally. I have owned a variety of the standard Tamiya rally cars over the years and although I haven't finished this yet, based on the rolling chassis and ground clearance it looks like it is going to be pretty decent for bashing. The standard TT-02 rally cars, which currently come in either the Lancia (58570) or Subaru (58631) variants, are ok but as per all regular TT-02 kits they lack any real adjustability. Notable exclusions from the standard kits which in my view should be essential for Rally are ball bearings and oil damped shocks. Common questions on setting up the TT-02 Type S as a Rally Car: 1) Why chose the Type S variant over the regular TT-02? The Type S is a much higher specification TT-02 and has a number of aftermarket parts including: [1] FRP suspension arms (51297), FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 ), [2] FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647), [3] metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056), [4] Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746), [5] full ball bearings, [6] adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms, and [7] steel suspension mounts (54634). The TT-02D Type S variant (now discontinued) also includes the Tamiya aluminium propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502). The cost of buying all these separately as hop-ups including the spacers and screws and other extras not mentioned could easily be the cost of the kit again at ~£100. 2) I understand you can't increase ground clearance at the front with the FRP suspension arms? This is true in standard form because the upgraded FRP front arms are restricted where the axle upright meets the suspension arm cross bar. Removing a small amount of material from the suspension arm cross bar, increases the ground clearance significantly. The steps to do this are shown further below. 3) How much ground clearance can I get? With a small amount of material removed from the front suspension arm cross bar, using the standard CVA Super Mini Shocks with the short lower shock eyelet at the front and long eyelet at the back; the ground clearance is 1” / 25mm. You can increase this further both front and back but the maximum is approximately 35mm before the dogbone style driveshafts and turnbuckles are at a comfortable limit. 25mm is plenty for off road with this chassis and its off road capability is really limited more by wheel/tyre size beyond this. 4) Do I need to upgrade the Super Mini CVA Shocks which are included to Mini or Short CVA Shocks? No, they are perfectly fine as they come in the kit. The Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746) can be built to a standard length of 56mm using the short length lower eyelet and 62mm using the long length lower eyelet. Both of these eyelets are included on the parts tree and with the adjustability of the arms you can max out suspension travel and ground clearance with the Super Mini Shocks. The difference between the Super Mini CVA Shocks and regular Mini CVA Shocks is in the damper piston body. This is shorter on the Super Mini Shock but the piston rod is the same length allowing the same maximum stroke. When building The Type S chassis up in Rally Spec, there are a few considerations: 1) You will need a body. 2) You will need an ESC. 3) You will need Rally Block tyres. The standard rims are 1.9" (49mm) so Tamiya Rally Block tyres (50476) will fit. Modifications 1) The main modification needed on this chassis to increase the ground clearance is to the front suspension arms (51297). The rear suspension is free moving. a) The extract from the manual below shows where the binding occurs. You simply file the material away on the suspension arm cross bar (highlighted in green) to the new profile. I used a square needle file with blank edges so no material was removed from the side of the arms. I chose to remove material on the cross bar rather than the axle upright since the profile on the axle looks to be key to achieving integrity of the whole upright part. 2) The rear CVA Super Mini Shock unit needs to be built with the long eyelet (tree part 2) from the parts tree not the short eyelet (tree part 1). The front uses the short eyelet as per the standard instructions. 3) Instead of installing the suspension arms so the orientation is for the 2 mounting holes for the ball connectors that connect to the lower shock eyelets; the arms are reversed to orientate with the 3 mounting holes. These arms are fully reversible so this is fine. If the images don't show up for you below let me know and I will re host.
  13. Going to see if anyone here wants this before it goes on ebay. New Mazda 3 bodyset from the TT-02 kit. Body is brand new and wheel wells were pre-trimmed from the factory. Mirrors, window masks and complete decal sheet are included. $20 + shipping. PM me for rates. Will also ship outside of US. Feel free to ask any questions you may have about this item. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=122632&x=0
  14. So, I just finished up the chassis for a tt-02 and I can NOT get it to keep tires on it or take off from a start and not flip into the air. I have a Racing Performer M4 3.5T 10020KV Modified Brushless Motor in it with a HOBBYWING QUICRUN 10BL120 SENSORED 120A ESC (2-3S) and Zeee 2S Lipo 5200mAh. I'm using the Tamiya rear lock block and the tamiya oil-filled diff, Yeah Racing CV shafts, 29t Pinion and 68T spur gear tamiya aluminum driver shaft and cups with Fast Eddy bearings. I've gone through 2 sets of tires and rims because of it. any thoughts?
  15. Hi I’m about to start build a TT-02 based Porsche 911 RSR but I’m not sure on the; wheelbase, ride-hight and tread setting. I think it should be: Wheelbase = Short Ride-hight = Standard Tread = Standard If you built one or know the chassis configuration could you let me know if I have this correct. Thanks.
  16. I built up a TT02 Type S Rally Car recently with the intention of getting a set of drift wheels and switching between the two. But, as I suspected, there is a lot more involved set-up wise in getting both the rally car and the drift car to perform well. So I decided I really needed two cars. I wanted to stick with Tamiya, and I also wanted them both to be 4wd. I have toyed with the idea of getting an XV-01 (which I still may do in the future), but there is just something about the shaft driven TT-02 I really like. I bought a lexan chassis cover for the Rally Car which took car of the off road duties, and picked up another Type S to build up as a drift car. Now, although I wanted to stick with Tamiya I did do some research into specific RWD drift cars just to be sure, and rule them out. The nearest club to me is an hour and a half drive. Had it have been half an hour I may have gone down the route of an MST RMX or Yokomo YD-2 etc. But, as I have a good amount of TT-02 spares, the 2 other people I know with drift cars have well set up TT-02's, and I have a nice large patio with a fresh covering of buttery smooth tarmac (which I intentionally specified to my Wife when we had it re-surfaced last year), I opted to stay with the TT-02. With the background of this build out of the way, let's move on to the pics. Simple start with a nice TT-02 Deck, and Tamiya's alloy propellor shaft and joints. Alloy locker for the rear diff. TT-01 one way diff for the front. This is a lovely piece to build. Super smooth action. And, both diffs installed. I installed this Surpass 13.5t that was for my DT-03, but it'll be removed when I can find where I've put the 10.5t motor I want to use in this. Shock towers added, and I also shimmed the arms to remove any play. More coming soon...
  17. There are so many TT-02 builds on here (one of them is my own!) that I hesitated doing yet another TT-02 build thread. However, this one is going to be built to rally spec with a number of hop-ups, some of which I think are unique. So I hope you all find this worthwhile. I am still waiting for a fair number of bits to arrive from distant lands such as Michigan, the U.K., Hong Kong and Japan. It will be at least a couple of weeks before I can start this build thread in earnest. I will begin though with an unboxing video.
  18. As predicted, when my sons birthday (he's turning 9 on the 21st) check arrived from grandma he wanted to spend the money he's been saving since Christmas to buy the TT-02. The birthday check put him right at the sale price for the kit at Tower, but the sale was over by the time the check arrived in the mail. Good thing I'm a smart dad and I had already bought it. I pulled it out from hiding and showed him. He literally did a happy dance. He wants to do a build thread on it and asked if he could do an un-boxing video first. So I said sure. Here is his unboxing vid. I'll update as he builds. I'm going to let him do as much of this as he is physically able. The only bit I plan to do for him is the body shell. It'll be close to box art but we don't have the PS-35 Blue-Purple called for in the instructions. Part of the deal was he had to use paint that we already have which is likely going to come down to either PS-4 Blue or PS-16 Metallic Blue.
  19. In the pipeline from Tamiya: 47329 Heavy Dump Truck Metallic Special (GF-01) and a few parts for the CC-01, GF-01, TT-02 and TT-02B too: 42308 TRF Silicone Oil Bottle Bag 47333 TT-02 A-Parts (Upright), Blue 47334 TT-02 A-Parts (Upright), White 47335 TT-02 D-Parts (Motor Mount), Blue 47336 TT-02 D-Parts (Motor Mount), White 47337 TT-02B B-Parts (Upright), Blue 47338 TT-02B B-Parts (Upright), White 47339 TT-02 Hard Lower Deck, Blue 47340 TT-02 Hard Lower Deck, White 54733 TT-02 Aluminum Rear Uprights (3.0 deg) 54734 GF-01 FRP Battery Plate 54735 CC-01 Mud Block Tires (2 Pcs.) 54736 Gold Plated Mesh Wheels (+2mm) (4 Pcs.)
  20. Firstly thanks for everyones imput with the questions I had. I found the build relativley easy. Though I didn`t have few "S##T" moments while building it. Mainly, hop up titainum screws. Thought I`d put them in from the beginning to reduce weight. And I thought it would take time to do it later. well I didn`t realize they were hex screws, tried to do the build with the small include hex spanner. Impossible. LHS was closed but the home centre had something that got me through. have since got a proper one. Anyway putting in first was a mistake. After a few stripped heads and a bit of paninc. I realized that its much easier to use the included screws first to cut the thread in the plastic then put the hexes in. Had a bit of an upset with my paint job, but after removing the film and put on the decals I could fogive myself as it was my first paint job. The ESC TBLE 03s. #4 led keeps flashes red, thought I had done something wrong so didnt run my car. After re-reading and re-reading, I found one line that says #4 led flashes when not useing boosted parts. Not sure what that means but guessed I wasn`t. let rip on the road out the front. my cat chased it around like a dog, so had to stop before he got hurt. was immpressed. Took it to the local track, to familiarize myself with the track and car. Big smiles..........crash. smile a bit smaller. a few more rolls and crashes, cracked body and scratches, but back to big smiles. entering a beginner race on the morrow.... I dont seem to able to upload other images.
  21. Hi i am new to Tamiya and i just bought a TT-02 and a CC01, What i would like some advice on is what would be the must upgrade parts for the TT-02 ? Also is there a metal diff/bevel gear set that can be used? Any advice would be great and thank you for taking the time to read this !!!
  22. Here is my first ever full build video. Hope you enjoy and make sure to subscribe so you get notified when part 2 is up. Let me know what you think!
  23. Hi all, Heres my Noob guide to building a TT02, to note i am a complete novice at this and still dont understand a lot! especially electronics and power systems for RC! This is my 1st attempt at building any RC car (anything RC infact!). Big THANKS to Quandry & The RC Racer for the guides they have done, as that helps a LOT! I've probably messed up along the way, as i got a feeling somethings havent fitted right, guess time will tell on Sunday when it gets powered up!.... Mercedes Benz GT3 #58586 Tamiya TT-02 Few TT02 hop-up parts & Jazrider TT02 hop-ups/Ball Bearings - 2S1P Turnigy ROAR Lipo Power Tamiya SuperStock RZ 23T motor - HiForce/Venon 320a ESC (china special!) - Turnigy TGY-4409MD Digi metal ball Servo - Absima CR2S v2 2.4ghz control system Stage 1: (5pm) All the bits, left on the table for about 1hour while i figured out where to start Oh Crumbs! Thats my Toe! Stage 2: (6:05pm) Bits still out on table, but after re-reading the threads on here and so on, am ready to test my building patience! Stage 3: (6:50pm) Took me ages to figure out how to put together the prop thing! haha!!! As i had the hop-up part, i just kept confusing myself with which part is which part! Stage 4: (7:20pm) Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Trying to hold the motor plate and mount onto the motor to screw it in place was not easy, another thing to take me ages to get going! Got the prop shaft fitted with the joints, bearings etc and slotted into space.... At first, seemed to be some slack on the prop shaft, but had read that others found the prop shaft loose to start with. Stage 5: (8:45pm) Built the Front and Rear Diffs, fitted to the chassis, then added the other bits/arms, etc. Reason this process took for ages is because i got to add the grease to the cogs and all the places it tells you to, DOH!!!!! So had to undo everything and start again after greasing the bits!! Stage 6: (9pm) Motor fitted in easy peasy, although out of the 3 mini things you get to hold the pinion into the motor, i dropped 2 and could'nt/still cant find them! Plate fitted as per instructions.. Stage 7: (9:15pm) All looking good so far i think, next part will be to tackle the Front Upright bits which makes me think a blast of coffee is needed here to steady the hands as the instructions make me think i need to have 4 hands!! ------------ Stage 8: (10:50pm) Front uprights fitted and screwed to the arms, etc..... All that time to do just the fronts...... Yup, you guessed it, forgot the grease again!! DOH! Undo it all again, add grease to the bones, bearings, etc and then refit, super finicky, didnt like doing this part! Real ballache! Stage 9: (11:20pm) Rears complete, remembered the grease this time and found the rears easier to fit (as read on Quandrys thread).... Although the rear right arm/upright didnt seem to fit right when pushing in the screw pin.... took some bodging which has resulted in the rear suspension not looking equal --------- Stage 10: (11:50pm) Shocks fitted and all other bits that go with it, but left screws lose, as forgot to buy damper oil for the shocks..... Built the tamiya ones, but the blue ones look better! Stage 11: (3am) 3 hours straight of pulling my hair out wondering why bits dont fit, turns out i was connecting bits the wrong way round! DOH!!!! and forgeting more greaseing!! The bits to lock in the steering linkage seemed a right pain, but i put that down to me being a novice.. I screwed the steering bits really tight, so there is no 'play' at all in the linkages, not sure if they are supposed to be lose, am sure i will find out the hard way once powered up! Confused myself lots over the servo and bits it uses, turns out you use the Tamiya bits and only the Servo, not ANY of the servo bits! Think i am getting somewhere with it now, and it all looks like it is fitting into place! Stage 12: (3:44am) Just fitted brake discs, motor cover and checked screw points.... Wife gets out of bed and comes storming into the office/stuies playroom , get an earful so time to goto bed! Its now Friday, just gotta wait for the Absima TX/RX to turn up on Saturday, and hopefully my hong kong wheels and i should be cooking on gas, thats providing; A: Once the Lipo battery is powered and plugged in, the car doesnt blow up cos i have done something wrong B: Drive it straight into the Kerb or Wall! C: Something else goes wrong! Lovely jubbley! - Total spent including 2 shells = £327 (quite a few parts from HongKong as cheaper, and i'm a savvy shopper anyway! )
  24. Hi all, I am new to the RC scene, in terms of wanting to build one from scratch... I bought a TA-05 car 2 years ago, someone had already built it as a shelf queen, looked like standard parts + Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor. From that, I didn't get chance to learn about the RC setup, just went straight in with razzing it in the street, which was great fun, and easy to drive.... Then I got introduced to an RC club, went along, and did the carpet racing indoors. For me, not having a clue, this is where it went wrong, tires didn't like carpet, everyone else was twice as fast, but more importantly, I was like Tom Cruise in 'Days of Thunder', ie: I hit everything!! After a few sessions, I got the hang of the track, but still kept on bashing into the walls, which eventually killed my car, the drive shaft/dogbone thingys wouldn't stay in, so wheels wouldn't spin, etc... Eventually sold as Spares and gave up the idea... However, am back on the case again, and want to build my own, and learn from the ground up, so would appreciate some help here please :) I set myself a budget of upto £300, to build a car which I will use outdoor (dry), and hopefully race indoors on carpet with other RC peeps (against other slow drivers!) I like the look of other cars I see which have the blue hop-up parts, that also makes me think the hop-up parts are a bit stronger, so in terms of novices like me, can take a bashing when on a track (well, a bit better than normal parts!)... So ideally, I was looking to buy a few hop-up parts which strengthen the wheel area for when hitting walls.... However, I wouldn't know where to start with which bag of bits to buy ? My shopping list currently: TT-01E - Nissan GTR Shell - comes with std Silver can and a TEU-104BK ESC = £126 Turnigy GTX3 2.4gz controller/Receiver = £40 (I assume it will work with any Tamiya ESC ??) or cheapo alternative is a 'FLY SKY FS-GT2' control/rece for £19 Ansmann Racing EX-High Speed Servo AR-700BB = £17.24 / or High Torque AR-710BB , same price.... wouldn't know which to choose... Charger I like the look of is a x2 battery charger - Fusion NX82 = £28 (and a few batteries which are 3000 or higher) That list is basic, but enough to get me started in building something that would run... Guess I would need Paint, Tamiya toolkit and possibly a cutter if shell not already cut? But............. These are the other things I looked at which I like.. TEU-105BK ESC = £23 Sport Tuned motor = £19 / Tamiya GT-Tuned motor = £25 / Tamiya SuperStock RZ motor = £36 And this: this is what I think would be a good idea............... Tamiya TT-01R KIT, comes with a Tamiya Lightly Tuned Motor (28T), motor alone is worth £26. Description for the TT01R says it comes with Hop-up parts already, but as a kit, will cost £125 + servo + TEU-105BK controller + 1/10 Shell + controller/recei.... Am I way out ? or on the right track, the TT01R makes me think its a fast car already and has super duper bits to it, but that could just be me reading it wrong? cheers guys...
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