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Found 10 results

  1. Hello new to this club thought I would share my models with you 1st Model Tamiya TT01 2004 Citroen Xsara very well used had lots of fun sadly the bodyshell didn’t survive the whole car could do with an over haul. 2nd Model Tamiya TGS Nitro or so I believe bought non running (Fires ups just cuts straight out next to no compression) I bought this from a garage sale has been very very well used and abused by its former owner so far struggling to find parts for it which maybe why it’s former owner got rid.
  2. (Thank you Doc Brown, for the title quote) For the last few years I've been club-racing with a TT01E. Yes, you heard me right, that big heavy bathtubbed car from the late '90s (I think?) has been battling it out on the surfaces of nearby tracks for a while now. Of course, it's no TRF, but it can swing some mean punches if need be, and it's super-cheap to run. I run it in the occasional club race, and of course the Dutch Tamiya Cup against other TTs. While the newer TT02Rs are formidable cars I've found that with the right setup it can still hold its own against them. I've owned the car for 6 years, and while it's a bit of a Trigger's Broom by now it's still mostly original. But first, the specs: - TT01E, originally kit #58433, but since they're all pretty much the same what body shell it came with isn't really relevant anymore. - Savox SC-1252MG servo - Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 - Various spec-mandated motors. Mostly Carson Cup Machines, but the occasional Torque Tuned or even Sport Tuned has been in here. I think in the course of me racing it it's had at least 10 different motors in it. - Full ball bearings - Aluminium center shaft. - #53673 TGS/TT toe-in rear uprights - HobbyKing OrangeRX GR300 receiver, paired to my Spektrum DX3S radio - MyLaps RC4 personal transponder. Of course I've modified a few things to make it stand up to the rigors of racing. Let's start at the front. (yes there's a 1 on the bumper. I used to have two, and this was my way to tell them apart) The Y-cable running the length of the car has two functions. Firstly, it delivers power to the transponder in the nose. The rear half plugs in to a wiring loom in my bodies for lights (and in some cases, a servo for the driver's head). I've done a few endurance races with this chassis where having lights was mandatory. Plus, a small light set doesn't add a lot of weight, but it helps with the visibility of your car. I've moved the body posts to the bumper plate. This makes swapping bodies between this chassis and the TRF a lot easier, as they're in the same location as the 419. In the front bumper I've made a small cutout for my transponder. Having it right there in the nose means I just have to push my nose past someone to score a lap in before they do. Shocks are Yeah Racing Shock Gear shocks. They're cheap shocks that offer 80% of the smoothness of TRF shocks for 40% of the price. I rebuild them once a year (or so..) and they hardly leak any oil. I've set them up with about 1mm of rebound to help carry the heavy car. 3Racing supplied the 6mm wheel hexes. Stock TTs come with plastic 5(ish..)mm wide hexes, but this will result in a car that's just slightly too narrow for racing (about 185ishmm). You can go to 6mm hexes to help with that. All racing wheels have 0 offset, so anything that increases track to about 190mm helps. On the front I've got universals, and I've changed the diff outdrives to the smaller, metal kind. Those allow me to choose whatever universal I see fit instead of having to work with the bulky plastic stock outdrives. I've built my own turnbuckle steering set with some 5mm adjusters I had in stock, and some turnbuckles. Yes, that's rust on the one connected to the servo. It looks worse than it is, and it's the result of running a wet race ONCE. I like it. It starts conversations. The steering bellcranks are running on ball bearings, but are still the stock plastic ones. They're getting a bit sloppy around the step screws, but with the official Tamiya hopup for that being as expensive as it is I guess I'll invest in a new plastic set should the slop get too bad to handle. Also visible here is the aluminium center shaft. On to the electronics-deck! Nothing too fancy here. I've shortened the wires going to the receiver from the ESC and the steering servo to keep wiring lengths manageable. Another thing I have done is solder a different on/off switch to the ESC. As standard the QR1060 comes with a very small, waterproof on/off switch. That doesn't fit in the big square cutout so I soldered in a switch from a broken TEU101BK I had laying around. Often, for post-race scrutineering I have to hand in the car turned off. The easier the switch is to get to, the better it is. (Also see the giant On/Off sticker next to it). Currently there's a simple heatsink fitted to the motor (#53664 if I'm not mistaken). For indoor use this is recommended to keep motor temperatures down slightly. Some people mount fans to it, I haven't seen the use to do so. Outdoors I usually take it off, or not mount it at all, as the wide-open layout of most outdoor tracks mean lower motor temperatures. Opposite the electronics bay is the battery compartment. I've removed all the ribs there to be able to fit square lipos. I've padded out the compartment with a bit of sticky foam. This keeps the batteries nice and snug. In fact, they're in there so tightly the strap (with a bit of white paint on the word Tamiya) really is just a formality. It'll stay put regardless. Moving further back there's the rear bumper (yes, that is a block of foam. It looks crude but it's yet to fail me), and the YR rear shocks. I've put a bit of red paint on the collar for easy adjustments. You can see the slightly different type of plastic used for the toe-in rear hubs. Also note, no universals in the rear. There's no specific benefit to using them in the rear I've found, other than lightening your wallet. I've used the body mounts that run backwards slightly for all my bodies. This seems to prevent tucking the rear in a collision, and as most bodies are coupe-style, with sloping rears, this allows for shorter body posts and less wobble. (And there's a spare body clip on the rear post. The motor's magnets pick up 1 or 2 body clips each run. I've yet to buy body clips, my car finds them for me ) So what does that all look like when it's on wheels? Very noticable in this picture is the rear toe-in, and a bit of toe-out on the front. There's enough slop in the front that a measurement is mostly useless, but I tend to go by Straight Ahead > A bit out > A bit in on my setup sheets. So far it's worked. Yes, that's my real-life name, and a decal of one of its previous achievements, coming in 3rd in the Tamiya International M-chassis Challenge earlier this year. And this is my new body shell, a Mazda RX7. Not the lightest body shell ever, but oh boy does it look the part! This is my previous body set. It's a bit knackered now, so I've replaced it with the Mazda. Those wheels are the required cup wheels for the Tamiya Cup. Right, so that's it for the introduction of my racer. I'll update this thread with the TT-specific things I've done (and am doing) to make it go fast.
  3. Hi All. I'm hoping someone is able to give me a guide price on a nib focus rs WRC 03 tt01 please. No idea what it's worth. Thanks in advance
  4. Hi All, Selling this Suzuki Swift on behalf of a friend. Looks like it's only been run once or twice. Body shell looks practically as good as new with no splits etc. Tyres look to have been glued but are nice and soft with no splits or cracks. A bit dusty and box is a bit squashed. No servo or radio gear but includes standard silver can and manual and box. Sadly the LED light unit is not present. What you see in the photos is what you will receive. £55 delivered to UK or nearest offer. Payment via PayPal gift please. Will pack securely. Let me know if you have any questions.
  5. I have a few projects going on at the moment and I've been meaning to start a build thread for a while. I will post about the cars as I'm working on them, some may take much longer than others and some may never get finished . Here's what I currently have in the fleet, if anyone would like to see or ask a question about a specific car just shout. TT01 - Countersteer drift car. TA02 SW - Built chassis intended as a shelf queen but I messed up the body so need to buy another. Bruiser - Part assembled for almost a year. CC01 - Built chassis (stalled camera car project). TA02 SW - 40th Anniversary still in box. FF03 - Speed run car (*worlds fastest FF03 82Mph) F103 GT - Built chassis with Mugen body currently a shelf queen but intended for speed runs. TRF 419x - Built chassis planned for 17.5T blinky club racing. M05r vII - In progress. TT02 - Stalled speed project, either TT02s conversion or shelf. TB04 Evo IV - Silver can challenge car, current fastest silver can powered Tamiya at (44.8Mph) TRF 418 - Speed run project car going for triple digits and current fastest Tamiya Club Car (85.5Mph) (94.8Mph) I'll start with the M05. I'm working on a Swift body for it and at the decal stage but need to visit my friend and get some more vinyl cut but here it is as of today. It's a V2 R kit with lots of nice Hop Ups included from Tamiya so the only additional parts are carbon towers, hollow carbon gear shaft and 3Racing graphite side trays. I ordered the towers before I built the car and have discovered that the front tower is completely pointless. I just noticed that to fit the 3Racing side trays I need to drill the chassis holes for the mount to sit flush . The pointless front shock tower: The side tray problem: Chassis: It was a nice build overall and I'm very much looking forward to running it. My current plan is to finish the body and then decide on the motor but at the moment I'm thinking about a 2s, 3.5T setup . EDIT *Wild claims relating to having the worlds fastest 2s FF03 are to the best of my knowledge correct at time of posting.
  6. So, I used to own a MKV GTI that I loved to death. It was the first car where I just enjoyed everything about it. I picked up this kit while I had the car, because I wanted to reproduce it as close as I possibly could, but I have since sold the car. Anyway, this car will sort of be a reminder of the good memories I had of the car. My old MKV GTI My TT-01E build progress Chassis as it sits right now. Hobbywing Justock XR10, Hobbywing Justock 17.5T, TT01 Aluminum drive shaft, Full ball bearings, Tamiya 28T pinion and 55T Spur, Savox 254MG Servo Suspension - upgraded shocks Painted the lightbucket of the headlights the way they're supposed to be like they are from factory. Painted the mirrors accordingly Progress on the body that will be attached with magnets. What's left? 1. Wheels, I bought some wheels that are as close to the stock 18" Hufeisen wheels as possible they're undergoing painting righ tnow. Ideally I'd like to have a replica of the 18" fifteen52 RML Snowflakes that you see in the picture of my old car, but someone would have to 3d print that for me. 2. See if I can possibly replicate the grille slats that I had on my car on the front. 3. Decals! Just the VW emblems and the windshield wipers.
  7. Is this the first ever Racing SemiTruck? TEAM REINERT RACING MAN TGS (TT-01 TYPE-E CHASSIS) Item No:58642  RRP 12,800円 due 25/3/17 interesting, okaaaayyyy.... body looks lexan, it won't be 3spd tranny. I guess it's TT01 cheap... nice to get another SemiTruck body for touring car again since Yokomo made theirs about 10yrs ago
  8. Hi, I'm after a Tamiya 306 Maxi FF02 Kit (NIB) or a someone's shelf queen. Equally, I will be open to body sheets and cars in reasonable condition. I'm also looking for a NIB Xsara and Focus WRC kit but am still open to good condition built cars and body sets. Thanks for reading, Sam
  9. Hi All and welcome to my TT01 Rally car build. For any who don't know I have a thread already going that will hopefully document my 1st steps into RC racing and can be found at the link below. I also have a few other build threads and can be seen at the links below also. So here it is as and when I bought it, a standard Tamiya TT01 with a Ford Focus Body Shell. This was my 1st RC car in quite a few years and has served to re-ignite my passion for the hobby again. As I said I do plan to race with a local club but this one will not be for racing and is more a project just for fun and experimentation. So the plans for the car are to raise the ride height and put on some rally tyres to have some off road fun on gravel/loose surfaces and hopefully equip it so it will take a few small jumps ect. When I bought the car all the kit was standard including the motor and ESC. As of writing I have an HPI 15T motor for it. The car is 100% and the only fault is the ESC seems to have lost reverse probably due to age and being stored in a damp roofspace for a while.I have no plans to change the ESC at the minute as funds will be concentrated on other projects for a while although I may eventually get round to this. Aside from the motor, tyres and ride height modifications I plan to try and seal up some of the holes on the underside if I am going to be going off road and also possible waterproof the electrics to a degree. I also plan on keeping the same shell but will modify it to something slightly different looking.
  10. Hi all, I am new to the RC scene, in terms of wanting to build one from scratch... I bought a TA-05 car 2 years ago, someone had already built it as a shelf queen, looked like standard parts + Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor. From that, I didn't get chance to learn about the RC setup, just went straight in with razzing it in the street, which was great fun, and easy to drive.... Then I got introduced to an RC club, went along, and did the carpet racing indoors. For me, not having a clue, this is where it went wrong, tires didn't like carpet, everyone else was twice as fast, but more importantly, I was like Tom Cruise in 'Days of Thunder', ie: I hit everything!! After a few sessions, I got the hang of the track, but still kept on bashing into the walls, which eventually killed my car, the drive shaft/dogbone thingys wouldn't stay in, so wheels wouldn't spin, etc... Eventually sold as Spares and gave up the idea... However, am back on the case again, and want to build my own, and learn from the ground up, so would appreciate some help here please :) I set myself a budget of upto £300, to build a car which I will use outdoor (dry), and hopefully race indoors on carpet with other RC peeps (against other slow drivers!) I like the look of other cars I see which have the blue hop-up parts, that also makes me think the hop-up parts are a bit stronger, so in terms of novices like me, can take a bashing when on a track (well, a bit better than normal parts!)... So ideally, I was looking to buy a few hop-up parts which strengthen the wheel area for when hitting walls.... However, I wouldn't know where to start with which bag of bits to buy ? My shopping list currently: TT-01E - Nissan GTR Shell - comes with std Silver can and a TEU-104BK ESC = £126 Turnigy GTX3 2.4gz controller/Receiver = £40 (I assume it will work with any Tamiya ESC ??) or cheapo alternative is a 'FLY SKY FS-GT2' control/rece for £19 Ansmann Racing EX-High Speed Servo AR-700BB = £17.24 / or High Torque AR-710BB , same price.... wouldn't know which to choose... Charger I like the look of is a x2 battery charger - Fusion NX82 = £28 (and a few batteries which are 3000 or higher) That list is basic, but enough to get me started in building something that would run... Guess I would need Paint, Tamiya toolkit and possibly a cutter if shell not already cut? But............. These are the other things I looked at which I like.. TEU-105BK ESC = £23 Sport Tuned motor = £19 / Tamiya GT-Tuned motor = £25 / Tamiya SuperStock RZ motor = £36 And this: this is what I think would be a good idea............... Tamiya TT-01R KIT, comes with a Tamiya Lightly Tuned Motor (28T), motor alone is worth £26. Description for the TT01R says it comes with Hop-up parts already, but as a kit, will cost £125 + servo + TEU-105BK controller + 1/10 Shell + controller/recei.... Am I way out ? or on the right track, the TT01R makes me think its a fast car already and has super duper bits to it, but that could just be me reading it wrong? cheers guys...
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