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Found 5 results

  1. (Thank you Doc Brown, for the title quote) For the last few years I've been club-racing with a TT01E. Yes, you heard me right, that big heavy bathtubbed car from the late '90s (I think?) has been battling it out on the surfaces of nearby tracks for a while now. Of course, it's no TRF, but it can swing some mean punches if need be, and it's super-cheap to run. I run it in the occasional club race, and of course the Dutch Tamiya Cup against other TTs. While the newer TT02Rs are formidable cars I've found that with the right setup it can still hold its own against them. I've owned the car for 6 years, and while it's a bit of a Trigger's Broom by now it's still mostly original. But first, the specs: - TT01E, originally kit #58433, but since they're all pretty much the same what body shell it came with isn't really relevant anymore. - Savox SC-1252MG servo - Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 - Various spec-mandated motors. Mostly Carson Cup Machines, but the occasional Torque Tuned or even Sport Tuned has been in here. I think in the course of me racing it it's had at least 10 different motors in it. - Full ball bearings - Aluminium center shaft. - #53673 TGS/TT toe-in rear uprights - HobbyKing OrangeRX GR300 receiver, paired to my Spektrum DX3S radio - MyLaps RC4 personal transponder. Of course I've modified a few things to make it stand up to the rigors of racing. Let's start at the front. (yes there's a 1 on the bumper. I used to have two, and this was my way to tell them apart) The Y-cable running the length of the car has two functions. Firstly, it delivers power to the transponder in the nose. The rear half plugs in to a wiring loom in my bodies for lights (and in some cases, a servo for the driver's head). I've done a few endurance races with this chassis where having lights was mandatory. Plus, a small light set doesn't add a lot of weight, but it helps with the visibility of your car. I've moved the body posts to the bumper plate. This makes swapping bodies between this chassis and the TRF a lot easier, as they're in the same location as the 419. In the front bumper I've made a small cutout for my transponder. Having it right there in the nose means I just have to push my nose past someone to score a lap in before they do. Shocks are Yeah Racing Shock Gear shocks. They're cheap shocks that offer 80% of the smoothness of TRF shocks for 40% of the price. I rebuild them once a year (or so..) and they hardly leak any oil. I've set them up with about 1mm of rebound to help carry the heavy car. 3Racing supplied the 6mm wheel hexes. Stock TTs come with plastic 5(ish..)mm wide hexes, but this will result in a car that's just slightly too narrow for racing (about 185ishmm). You can go to 6mm hexes to help with that. All racing wheels have 0 offset, so anything that increases track to about 190mm helps. On the front I've got universals, and I've changed the diff outdrives to the smaller, metal kind. Those allow me to choose whatever universal I see fit instead of having to work with the bulky plastic stock outdrives. I've built my own turnbuckle steering set with some 5mm adjusters I had in stock, and some turnbuckles. Yes, that's rust on the one connected to the servo. It looks worse than it is, and it's the result of running a wet race ONCE. I like it. It starts conversations. The steering bellcranks are running on ball bearings, but are still the stock plastic ones. They're getting a bit sloppy around the step screws, but with the official Tamiya hopup for that being as expensive as it is I guess I'll invest in a new plastic set should the slop get too bad to handle. Also visible here is the aluminium center shaft. On to the electronics-deck! Nothing too fancy here. I've shortened the wires going to the receiver from the ESC and the steering servo to keep wiring lengths manageable. Another thing I have done is solder a different on/off switch to the ESC. As standard the QR1060 comes with a very small, waterproof on/off switch. That doesn't fit in the big square cutout so I soldered in a switch from a broken TEU101BK I had laying around. Often, for post-race scrutineering I have to hand in the car turned off. The easier the switch is to get to, the better it is. (Also see the giant On/Off sticker next to it). Currently there's a simple heatsink fitted to the motor (#53664 if I'm not mistaken). For indoor use this is recommended to keep motor temperatures down slightly. Some people mount fans to it, I haven't seen the use to do so. Outdoors I usually take it off, or not mount it at all, as the wide-open layout of most outdoor tracks mean lower motor temperatures. Opposite the electronics bay is the battery compartment. I've removed all the ribs there to be able to fit square lipos. I've padded out the compartment with a bit of sticky foam. This keeps the batteries nice and snug. In fact, they're in there so tightly the strap (with a bit of white paint on the word Tamiya) really is just a formality. It'll stay put regardless. Moving further back there's the rear bumper (yes, that is a block of foam. It looks crude but it's yet to fail me), and the YR rear shocks. I've put a bit of red paint on the collar for easy adjustments. You can see the slightly different type of plastic used for the toe-in rear hubs. Also note, no universals in the rear. There's no specific benefit to using them in the rear I've found, other than lightening your wallet. I've used the body mounts that run backwards slightly for all my bodies. This seems to prevent tucking the rear in a collision, and as most bodies are coupe-style, with sloping rears, this allows for shorter body posts and less wobble. (And there's a spare body clip on the rear post. The motor's magnets pick up 1 or 2 body clips each run. I've yet to buy body clips, my car finds them for me ) So what does that all look like when it's on wheels? Very noticable in this picture is the rear toe-in, and a bit of toe-out on the front. There's enough slop in the front that a measurement is mostly useless, but I tend to go by Straight Ahead > A bit out > A bit in on my setup sheets. So far it's worked. Yes, that's my real-life name, and a decal of one of its previous achievements, coming in 3rd in the Tamiya International M-chassis Challenge earlier this year. And this is my new body shell, a Mazda RX7. Not the lightest body shell ever, but oh boy does it look the part! This is my previous body set. It's a bit knackered now, so I've replaced it with the Mazda. Those wheels are the required cup wheels for the Tamiya Cup. Right, so that's it for the introduction of my racer. I'll update this thread with the TT-specific things I've done (and am doing) to make it go fast.
  2. mman2005

    SOLD: TT-01E Suzuki Swift WRC

    Hi All, Selling this Suzuki Swift on behalf of a friend. Looks like it's only been run once or twice. Body shell looks practically as good as new with no splits etc. Tyres look to have been glued but are nice and soft with no splits or cracks. A bit dusty and box is a bit squashed. No servo or radio gear but includes standard silver can and manual and box. Sadly the LED light unit is not present. What you see in the photos is what you will receive. £55 delivered to UK or nearest offer. Payment via PayPal gift please. Will pack securely. Let me know if you have any questions.
  3. GooneyBird

    Project Rally Bug / Street Scorcher

    Here's an idea that's been going through my mind a couple of times: I love the look of the Sand Scorcher. IMHO it's one of the most scale bodies that Tamiya have ever done. And while I'd love to get an SRB, it seems that every affordable SRB slips from my fingers, and new is great, but expensive. Also, I don't need yet another chassis to abuse and to adore. And that's why I'm going to build something out of a TT01E. Why a TT, I hear you ask? First and formost, I have one not doing anything. It's been last year's Tamiya Cup-runner, but started to wear down severly. I was offered a basically-brand-new TT01E for peanuts, and transferred all the go-faster stuff to the new car, leaving this poor chassis in the back of the workshop up on some stands. Until today. @Fuijo had a spare Scorcher shell I could use to kick this project underway, so back onto the work bench my old TT went, and I plopped the VW body on just to see what needed to be done. Well, the wheelbase is off, but I already figured that out. The good news is that the body fits on the chassis without interference from the main bath tub. Also good news is that the wheelbase is less off than I thought it would be. However... The front and rear bumper supports need to get lobbed off. In the front it just might work with the nose cone on, but the one in the rear sticks out too far to be of any use. First issue: wheelbase. Tamiya gives you two options to build the car, the 'normal' 257mm and short wheelbase. Short being about 251mm, and designed with the Porsche 911 and Capri and such in mind. Converting is simply a matter of flipping the arms. On the left = regular wheelbase, and on the right is short wheelbase. This gets us in the ballpark, but not quite.... This is where I had a bit of a change of mind. What if, instead of going for a slammed street look, I lifted the car up and turned it into a rally bug? The distance from the wheels to the wheel arches would disguise the wheelbase being off (by about 5mm, I think), and while it would impact its on-road performance it would turn the car into an all-road plaything. Excellent! What I'll try next time I can find some time in my schedule: - See if I can cut away the bumpstops on the chassis to allow the arms to hang down further. - Figure out a way to attach the body - dig into my spare parts pile to make this car a complete runner again.
  4. samjones

    WANTED Tamiya TT01E

    Hi! Does anyone have a Tamiya TT01E knocking about? Thanks, Sam
  5. As I promised, here is a small overview of my cars so far. My first ever RC car I bought when I was 12. It was an M02 Alpine A110, and it was well used and abused throughout the years. I raced it in the Eurocup, where it soon found itself hopelessly outclassed against the (then-new) M03s. I parked it in the attic and forgot all about it. However, four years ago, my then-office decided to have a team-building exercise; build and race TT01s against the other departments. Because I was the only one with any clue how to assemble them, I was named chief mechanic and driver. After the big event I took the thing home, and promptly bought a second one. ... I guess you can kinda see how this goes from here... Four years later, and I have fully restored the M02, making it a light-duty runner with the only modern addition of a 2.4Ghz receiver and an ESC. The rest is pure '90s goodness, including an original body set. The TT01 received a Lancia Delta Integrale body set, and a rally interior soon after. The TT01 is still with me, I race it in the Dutch Tamiya Cup wearing a Toyota GT86 body set (the beautiful Lancia is just too fragile for the track).. For the local indoor carpet track I have two cars. I started out running the TT, but soon upgraded to a TRF419, currently in Stock 17.5t trim to comply with local regulations. It's an absolute beast, precise as a scalpel and quick like a fox. The other car I bought to compete with my wife. She runs a Tamiya F1 mutt (F104 with an X1 rear pod and setup, and a TRF102 frontend on foam, and I found the 419 to be outgunned. So I went and got a TRF102. The TRF F1 is still fairly new to me, and I'm still working on setting it up. I run it on rubber instead of foam, which puts me at a huge handling disadvantage compared to her foam-shod car. The 102 has the upper hand in power though, she runs a silver can, and I run a 21.5t brushless in blinky. We also have two DT03 buggies, just to mess around with on the beach, and I'm currently painting up a CC01 Mitsubishi Pajero MTW.