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After a year long hiatus, I’m back! The weather has turned, and with warm weather, the RC bug bites. I have been really enjoying my first rally car, a TT02 Datsun 240z. The build thread is on here somewhere. Some pics. http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// I am now going to try and build a Porsche 911 rally on a TT02 chassis. I love the versatility of the rally chassis, and my Datsun is a blast to drive. Can’t wait to get started.

I built up a TT02 Type S Rally Car recently with the intention of getting a set of drift wheels and switching between the two. But, as I suspected, there is a lot more involved set-up wise in getting both the rally car and the drift car to perform well. So I decided I really needed two cars. I wanted to stick with Tamiya, and I also wanted them both to be 4wd. I have toyed with the idea of getting an XV-01 (which I still may do in the future), but there is just something about the shaft driven TT-02 I really like. I bought a lexan chassis cover for the Rally Car which took car of the off road duties, and picked up another Type S to build up as a drift car. Now, although I wanted to stick with Tamiya I did do some research into specific RWD drift cars just to be sure, and rule them out. The nearest club to me is an hour and a half drive. Had it have been half an hour I may have gone down the route of an MST RMX or Yokomo YD-2 etc. But, as I have a good amount of TT-02 spares, the 2 other people I know with drift cars have well set up TT-02's, and I have a nice large patio with a fresh covering of buttery smooth tarmac (which I intentionally specified to my Wife when we had it re-surfaced last year), I opted to stay with the TT-02. With the background of this build out of the way, let's move on to the pics. Simple start with a nice TT-02 Deck, and Tamiya's alloy propellor shaft and joints. Alloy locker for the rear diff. TT-01 one way diff for the front. This is a lovely piece to build. Super smooth action. And, both diffs installed. I installed this Surpass 13.5t that was for my DT-03, but it'll be removed when I can find where I've put the 10.5t motor I want to use in this. Shock towers added, and I also shimmed the arms to remove any play. More coming soon...

I've wanted a rally car for some time now. Having looked at various options I settled on the TT02. This will be a rally car, an on road car, and a drift car also. I spent some time reading up on the TT02 and it seemed to tick all the boxes. I opted for the Type S which has some tasty upgrades over the standard TT02. So here we go. I started with the wheels. I'm still waiting on the wheels to put the kit on road tires on to. I'm sure you've all seen the TT02 chassis a million times before, but I haven't, and i like it. This is my first 4wd car since my 1990 Pro-Cat! I knocked this little piece up. Any guess as to what it's for? A little guard to keep stones out of the steering. More coming soon, thanks for looking.

Hi All, Having a clear out and have the random following parts for sale. They are all new and in sealed packs. Below prices include postage to UK and money sent via PayPal friends and family. Happy to post elsewhere for additional cost. Tamiya TA06 Cross Shaft 54331 - £7 Tamiya TB04 Aluminum Cup Joints 54543 - £11 Tamiya Touring Car Wing 54458 - £6.75 Tamiya TT-02 Type-S Aluminum Upper Arm Mount 54652 - £12 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1D) 54072 - £8.50 4mm Aluminum Flange Lock Nuts 53024 - £10.50 Please let me know if interested. Mark

Hi, I've got a TT02b and I'd like to convert it into a TT02- has any TT02b owner done this before? I'd like to know what parts you guys have purchased.

Hi, I need hex screws for tt02 type s (no matter if steel, alluminuim, etc) The list is this (from titanium limited edition): 3×6mm Titanium Hex Screw (1 pc) 3×8mm Titanium Hex Screw (8 pcs) 3×10mm Titanium Hex Tapping Screw (9 pcs) 3×10mm Titanium Hex Screw (28 pcs) 3×12mm Titanium Hex Screw (4 pcs) 3×15mm Titanium Hex Screw (4 pcs)

This kit hasn't been as straight forward as I expected, so I figured I should put it all together in a build thread. I bought a standard 58645 Subaru WRX STI NBR Challenge kit during 2017. As soon as Tamiya advertised this kit I knew I'd own one. I'm not particularly into Subarus but the detail on this kit is great. If only it came with light buckets. When the kit arrived I have to say that while I really like the body, I wasn't that keen on the TT02 chassis. At least in stock form. A local club races a TT02 class, which allow for some basic mods but is largely stock, so I sold the chassis for something else. At which point I bought another TT02. If that seems counter-intuitive, then you're probably right, but there was some reasoning behind it. I wanted another XV01 as an on-road chassis to go with my rally XV01, but the XV01 chassis body-mounts don't suit low bodies and it would cost a fair bit to get it how I wanted. I looked at the TB04, TA05, TA06, and TA07 but ultimately they're overkill or getting harder to find parts for. I decided on either a 47326 TT02R or a 58600 TT02 Type S. I honestly could have gone either way but the TT02R has the upgrades you really need right out of the box (like ball bearings, the aluminium driveshaft and joints, and motor mount). The TT02S has a lot of nice parts too and when one came up for sale near me I almost crumbled and bought it as well. Sanity prevailed, and I just have a TT02R... for now. The TT02R chassis is an easy build. In the above photo it was mostly finished except for shocks and electronics, plus the wheels and tyres are from the WRX kit. A few things to note: 1) The steering comes with the adjustable turnbuckles but is otherwise the same as a basic TT02. 2) The rear 3 degree uprights are nice, but you can't use them for the wide rear necessary on the Porsche 911 RSR. I wish I had known that beforehand, but it wouldn't cost much to pick up some standard TT02 parts to convert it. You can't do that on the TT02S without losing the better suspension arms. 3) You can still use the shorter body-shells, unlike the TT02S. 4) The TT02R is a "limited edition" kit, but I'm not sure this means anything. When building the kit I didn't pay enough attention and bungled one screw in the rear bumper. They should both be like the one on the left. I had to unscrew the bumper, take off the bumper then remove the screw on the right before reinstalling it correctly. I just wasn't paying attention, this kit is a breeze to put together. The WRX body on the other hand isn't as straight forward. Having a lot of detail is nice but it does mean it requires a bit of effort. The wheel arches have a small raised section in front of them. You need to trim around these and also mask them as they will be painted black. There's also the front splitter which will also be painted black and is going to take a beating being stuck right out front. The rear end is awkward. There's a lot of angles there and it is a little tricky to both trim and mask as well. You can see in the stock photo below that it's not a typical rear bumper. Here it is sitting on the TT02R chassis. I've test fitted the electronics and a stock 540 motor. I'm undecided on what I'll put in there permanently, but I might get a Sport-Tuned for this and the TT02 aluminium heatsink. I had a spare TBLE-02S ESC and the servo is just a Futaba S3003. I'll need to decide on a receiver too, but because of the design of the TT02 chassis I will have to mount it to the top of the servo. With the electronics so close together there's a bird's nest of wiring that will need tidying. Back to the body shell, I washed it and lightly scuffed it with a 3M scourer, avoiding the windows. It took a bit of effort to get the masking right. I used the 87178 3mm masking tape for curves along the edges of the roof to try and get a smooth edge. The roof needs to be painted separately from the PS16 Metallic Blue on the rest of the body. The instructions say to use PS48 Semi-Gloss Silver Anodized Aluminium. I'd probably recommend you just use PS41 Bright Silver. The Bright Silver is both cheaper and easier to use, and should still suit it. Front and back I also used the curved tape for the longer edges. I tried using it around the grille but I actually found it easier to use basic masking tape and then trim it with a knife. You can see the small leading edge on the front wheel arches and how I masked them off in the photo below. Because it's such a small bit I initially masked over it then trimmed it with a knife. It's a little unusual that the lower front grille doesn't need painting in black but the areas beside it do. Again, just mask and then trim to fit. For the rest of it I masked a couple of layers upwards, and then I get some cling-film and tape that to the masking. It saves having to mask the whole body and works great if you make sure not to leave any gaps where paint can get under. Being summer, I wanted to get a bunch of painting done so I added another body. As you can see, this isn't another WRX. It's a 51376 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X. This was going to be a rally body for my XV01 but between ordering it and it arriving I had a change of mind. It was hugely different to the WRX when trimming and masking. It was really simple. The hardest part is the front grille as it is slightly indented and has a couple of sharp curves. I managed to do it with a single bit of the curved masking tape and then fill the rest. After adding the stock kit window and light masks (the lights are a touch fiddly) I also masked off the bonnet, roof, and boot. Same technique with the two types of tape. The bonnet ends in a tight curve towards the windscreen which meant the tape kept lifting, but everything was otherwise fine. I should also mention that I will typically get a cotton-bud, dip it in the Tamiya body cleaner, then wipe over the clear body before painting at each step. That way any stray finger prints when masking are removed. Being the darkest colour, the first step of painting the WRX is the PS5 Black. I usually paint one very light coat, then two thicker. I actually left a fair bit of time between masking and painting so the tape lifted a little at the edges in a couple of spots. I tidied it up with body cleaner but just behind the front arches there's a little in a hard 90 degree corner which I had to leave. I could've tried getting to it but I'd probably end up accidentally getting some body cleaner on the wrong spot. I expect the decals to cover it anyway. Next step was the PS16 Metallic Blue. Now it is starting to look like the WRX I want. The blue is quite transparent even after a few coats. I then backed it with PS41 Bright Silver. The instructions don't mention this, but it helps makes the blue opaque. Just two coats were needed for this. I am painting the Evo X at the same time and here it is with the PS45 Translucent Purple. I've never used a translucent paint before so it's a bit of a learning experience with this body. I did the one light then two thicker coats and got coverage is fairly good. It came out looking a touch thinner in some areas but you'd end up dumping the whole can in the body trying to even it up. I trusted I did a decent job and moved on. Back to the WRX. After the blue and silver had cured I peeled the roof masking off and, in the below photo, you can see the lines came out nice and smooth. I really recommend the masking tape for curves for this kind of stuff. I added the PS48 Aluminium to the roof. I've had mixed results with this paint so I'm not sure if this is going to work out how I want. I painted a bumper on my Bronco using this and it came out a little bit disappointing. It didn't really look too metallic. So this time I've gone for more coats. One light coat and then three thicker coats. In the photo below you can see how it paints quite clear so you're never really sure how it will come out. It looks dull and slightly opaque. Hopefully when I back it with black, which is necessary, it'll get that anodized metal look. One thing you can see, if you look at the roof towards the windscreen, is that the light scuff marks from the scourer didn't disappear when I painted the PS48. It normally disappears when painting every other colour, but I never thought beforehand that because PS48 is so reflective it could affect it. Fingers crossed it won't show up later on. Backing the purple on the Evo X was one of those moments you start thinking "I might need to clean out the whole body if this doesn't work" but it actually came out how I wanted. I backed the purple with PS23 Gunmetal so I'd get a metallic effect but a darker colour than a silver. I am looking forward to peeling off the plastic to see just how the final colour looks. Before that can happen I still have to paint the rest of the body. I'm going with black for the grille, the masked off bonnet, roof, boot and the lower rear bumper. Why so dark? Since the TT02 is quite versatile, this is going to be my drifter body. I've ordered a set of wheels and tyres which I hope will suit. The Evo X has been really nice to work with so far. It comes with light buckets and a rear spoiler, but I won't be fitting the spoiler. I'm not sure about going to the effort of putting in LEDs but I'll see how much I like drifting when it is up and running. All this painting has got me wondering if I could squeeze in one more body before autumn kicks in, and I have a very complicated idea for a Mazda Demio.

Hi, I'm new here. This is the project I'm working on, it's a Blitzer Beetle body mounted on a rally set up TT-02r chassis. The front body mount is a modified Blitzer Beetle mount, I cut out the centre section so I could bolt it to the uprights. I have the chassis set to increased ride height & short wheelbase plus I've shortened the front track by replacing the front ~9mm hexes with 4mm hexes and fairly obviously I've fitted rally wheels/tyres. It has a Tamiya 10.5t brushless motor & a Team Powers XPS sport programmable ESC. There's still loads to be done - Replace shocks, not that I find much wrong with the TT-02r oil filled shocks but I want alloy shocks. Replace battery with LiPo. Tidy up body mounts & bolts etc. Now, to paint or not to paint? I really don't know whether to leave it 'ratty' or paint the shell. Perhaps white? With rally livery? Anyway, I've rambled on long enough. Here's a photo of it next to my Kyosho (I was fitting new tyres to) for scale. I think it looks pretty good, any ideas, thoughts, opinions would be most welcome.

I know this has been beaten to death, but wanted to start a build thread for a Datsun 240z rally build on a TT02 chassis. I would have rather just bought a DF03ra chassis with the Datsun body when they were available a few months ago, but I took too long to pull the trigger. I enjoy building my cars as scale as possible, and have learned a lot from scouring threads on this great forum. Here are two threads I will be using as a reference, many thanks to the authors. To start with I purchased this kit from Tower hobbies for $104 with free shipping. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVHK&P=SM After I bought the kit and started buying all the hop up parts I realized it would have been cheaper to buy this kit. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCWD&P=SM This kit comes with a sport tuned motor, rubber shielded bearings, cva oil dampers, adjustable steering toe in, and beefier shock towers. Hopefully someone can learn from my mistake...lol. Here is the kit as it arrived the other day.

Finished my TT02, added a few hop-ups including the Yeah racing aluminum/ball bearing steering kit. Still seems like a pretty limited steering angle, and I'm using alot of power steering in tight turns. Servo has plenty of room left left/right to turn more sharply. Is there an easy mod to increase turn in/decrease turn radius?

Building a TT02 White Edition for rally racing. I've been told that it will help to build the diffs with some AW grease. At least in the front. Does anyone use oil as well or will it leak out. Maybe 500,000wt? Thanks!

Just getting back into the scene after years away. In the past I ran nitro, now I'm going electric. Finally figuring out this lipo and brushless stuff, but I'm at decision point. Awaiting my new TT02 White edition kit in the mail, and I need to order a motor/esc combo but I have no idea where to even begin with regards to what I need. Here's what I know: 1) It has to be compatible with the 2s lipos I already have. (One 4000mah and one 6500mah) 2)I need both motor and esc so a combo makes sense. 3) Want to keep price around $100 or less. This article has a ton of options but I don't know what the differences are. https://www.onkidstoys.com/top-21-best-esc-motor-combos/ I'm going to be racing at a local track doing rally. The guys who go there suggested this combo: https://www.hobbytown.com/xerun-justock-zero-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-motor-combo-13.5t-by-hobbywing-hwa38020401/p453305 This is one I keep seeing advertised: Http://www.horizonhobby.com/KXSS0500?utm_medium=display&utm_source=criteo&utm_campaign=productremarketing&utm_content=KXSS0500&CA_6C15C=320011980000459400 Happy to take suggestions. Don't need the world's fastest motor but I'd like to be competitive. Thanks!

I have a few projects going on at the moment and I've been meaning to start a build thread for a while. I will post about the cars as I'm working on them, some may take much longer than others and some may never get finished . Here's what I currently have in the fleet, if anyone would like to see or ask a question about a specific car just shout. TT01 - Countersteer drift car. TA02 SW - Built chassis intended as a shelf queen but I messed up the body so need to buy another. Bruiser - Part assembled for almost a year. CC01 - Built chassis (stalled camera car project). TA02 SW - 40th Anniversary still in box. FF03 - Speed run car (*worlds fastest FF03 82Mph) F103 GT - Built chassis with Mugen body currently a shelf queen but intended for speed runs. TRF 419x - Built chassis planned for 17.5T blinky club racing. M05r vII - In progress. TT02 - Stalled speed project, either TT02s conversion or shelf. TB04 Evo IV - Silver can challenge car, current fastest silver can powered Tamiya at (44.8Mph) TRF 418 - Speed run project car going for triple digits and current fastest Tamiya Club Car (85.5Mph) (94.8Mph) I'll start with the M05. I'm working on a Swift body for it and at the decal stage but need to visit my friend and get some more vinyl cut but here it is as of today. It's a V2 R kit with lots of nice Hop Ups included from Tamiya so the only additional parts are carbon towers, hollow carbon gear shaft and 3Racing graphite side trays. I ordered the towers before I built the car and have discovered that the front tower is completely pointless. I just noticed that to fit the 3Racing side trays I need to drill the chassis holes for the mount to sit flush . The pointless front shock tower: The side tray problem: Chassis: It was a nice build overall and I'm very much looking forward to running it. My current plan is to finish the body and then decide on the motor but at the moment I'm thinking about a 2s, 3.5T setup . EDIT *Wild claims relating to having the worlds fastest 2s FF03 are to the best of my knowledge correct at time of posting.

I started building my Subaru XV TT02. I got it to the point of being able to test drive it, and thought I would start a thread before it progressed any further. Plans are to do a rally build for bashing on dirt trails. Hoppups are: Tamiya TT02 CVA dampers Tamiya High Speed Spur gear Fast Eddies sealed bearings YR aluminum driveshaft. YR steering kit YR diff locker in the rear Also included, are GPM aluminum battery posts. Unnecessary, but I originally robbed the Tamiya battery posts from this kit for my Neo Scorcher Truggy. I found these on eBay cheaper than another parts tree, and went for these. To be honest, I don't like them and wish I would have gotten the whole parts tree just for the Tamiya parts. The reason being is that it's much easier/faster to pull a pin out to change the battery, than it is to unscrew two little knobs. The wheels came from eBay. I don't know the brand, and chose them just for the chunky tires. I will be putting the tires on the Subaru kit rims.

Hello all, I am looking at trading the following cars. The wild willy is an unused XB version and has the Tamiya servo fitted and the second buggy is a used TT02B-MS. The buggy includes the box, instructions and a Acoms servo. The tt02 is in very good condition, has had very little use and the only damage is the bodyshell has a crack near the front body post. I am looking to trade for a Hotshot or dark impact kit or new build. Please let me know if you have anything of interest or you would like any more pics or info. I would also be interested in a stadium Blitzer or thunder or frog. Thanks UK Only

What makes the Sandshaker sit higher than a regular TT02 car? I was looking through the manuals, and it looks like they both use the same suspension arms, but different drive shafts and wheel axles. I don't get how that gives the Sandshaker more height? Is it just longer dampers? My plan is to build the Subaru XV into a rally car, but with a little more height and chunkier tires. Basically, a Subaru body on the Sandshaker chassis. Sandshaker manual. See step 17. https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58608ml.pdf Subaru XV TT02 manual. See step 17 and 18. https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58567ml.pdf

RC Model Kits: 47331 Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop Wide (re-release of 58132/49490) 47348 The Grasshopper Candy Green Edition (re-release of 84331) 47349 XV-01 Chassis Kit Long Damper Spec (re-release of 84375 58645 Subaru WRX STI 24h Nürburgring (TT-02 chassis) RC Hop-Up Parts: 42309 TRF 37T Aluminum One-Way Pulley 42310 TRF 37T Aluminum Differential Pulley 54737 Matt Plated Silver Dish Wheels (26mm, +2) (4 Pcs.) 54741 1/14 On Road Racing Truck Wheels (Black) (4 Pcs.) 54742 Cross-Country Tire & Spring Set (GF-01) 54746 TA07 Carbon Damper Stay Set 54748 4WD Buggy Front Dish Wheels (Yellow) (Hex Hub) 54749 Buggy Rear Dish Wheels (Yellow) (Hex Hub) 54750 Hi-Lift Matt Plated A-Parts (Gearbox) 54751 TA07 Center Shaft Bridge 54752 TT-02 Steering Upgrade Parts Set 54753 TT-02 CVA Super Mini Shock Set RC Tractor Trucks Optional & Spare Parts: 56541 Front Wheels (22mm Width / White) 56542 Rear Wheels (22mm Width / White) 56543 Wheels (30mm Width / Hex Hub / White) (2 Pcs.) 56544 Ball Bearing Wheels (30mm Width / White) (2 Pcs.)

There are two recent variants of the TT-02 Type S worth considering for this; the standard kit (58600) which remains widely available and if you can still find one, the drift spec kit (47301). I purchased the TT-02D Type S because it was on offer at £99 (not to be confused with the standard non Type S TT-02 drift chassis 58584). I decided to build this rally car from the Type S chassis kit simply to see how good it would be and to answer many of the common questions which appear on here and in other forums on the suitability of the Type S for rally. I have owned a variety of the standard Tamiya rally cars over the years and although I haven't finished this yet, based on the rolling chassis and ground clearance it looks like it is going to be pretty decent for bashing. The standard TT-02 rally cars, which currently come in either the Lancia (58570) or Subaru (58631) variants, are ok but as per all regular TT-02 kits they lack any real adjustability. Notable exclusions from the standard kits which in my view should be essential for Rally are ball bearings and oil damped shocks. Common questions on setting up the TT-02 Type S as a Rally Car: 1) Why chose the Type S variant over the regular TT-02? The Type S is a much higher specification TT-02 and has a number of aftermarket parts including: [1] FRP suspension arms (51297), FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 ), [2] FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647), [3] metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056), [4] Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746), [5] full ball bearings, [6] adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms, and [7] steel suspension mounts (54634). The TT-02D Type S variant (now discontinued) also includes the Tamiya aluminium propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502). The cost of buying all these separately as hop-ups including the spacers and screws and other extras not mentioned could easily be the cost of the kit again at ~£100. 2) I understand you can't increase ground clearance at the front with the FRP suspension arms? This is true in standard form because the upgraded FRP front arms are restricted where the axle upright meets the suspension arm cross bar. Removing a small amount of material from the suspension arm cross bar, increases the ground clearance significantly. The steps to do this are shown further below. 3) How much ground clearance can I get? With a small amount of material removed from the front suspension arm cross bar, using the standard CVA Super Mini Shocks with the short lower shock eyelet at the front and long eyelet at the back; the ground clearance is 1” / 25mm. You can increase this further both front and back but the maximum is approximately 35mm before the dogbone style driveshafts and turnbuckles are at a comfortable limit. 25mm is plenty for off road with this chassis and its off road capability is really limited more by wheel/tyre size beyond this. 4) Do I need to upgrade the Super Mini CVA Shocks which are included to Mini or Short CVA Shocks? No, they are perfectly fine as they come in the kit. The Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746) can be built to a standard length of 56mm using the short length lower eyelet and 62mm using the long length lower eyelet. Both of these eyelets are included on the parts tree and with the adjustability of the arms you can max out suspension travel and ground clearance with the Super Mini Shocks. The difference between the Super Mini CVA Shocks and regular Mini CVA Shocks is in the damper piston body. This is shorter on the Super Mini Shock but the piston rod is the same length allowing the same maximum stroke. When building The Type S chassis up in Rally Spec, there are a few considerations: 1) You will need a body. 2) You will need an ESC. 3) You will need Rally Block tyres. The standard rims are 1.9" (49mm) so Tamiya Rally Block tyres (50476) will fit. Modifications 1) The main modification needed on this chassis to increase the ground clearance is to the front suspension arms (51297). The rear suspension is free moving. a) The extract from the manual below shows where the binding occurs. You simply file the material away on the suspension arm cross bar (highlighted in green) to the new profile. I used a square needle file with blank edges so no material was removed from the side of the arms. I chose to remove material on the cross bar rather than the axle upright since the profile on the axle looks to be key to achieving integrity of the whole upright part. 2) The rear CVA Super Mini Shock unit needs to be built with the long eyelet (tree part 2) from the parts tree not the short eyelet (tree part 1). The front uses the short eyelet as per the standard instructions. 3) Instead of installing the suspension arms so the orientation is for the 2 mounting holes for the ball connectors that connect to the lower shock eyelets; the arms are reversed to orientate with the 3 mounting holes. These arms are fully reversible so this is fine. If the images don't show up for you below let me know and I will re host.

So my first TT-02 suffered a nasty spill down a storm drain, never to return. I got the replacement parts kit off ebay and bought a separate shell later. I also got some chinese rally wheels, set the ride height up, and added some cheap aluminum shocks. Hub assemblies and dogbones are aluminum. Next upgrades are the aluminum a-arms (in the mail) which have broken mounts on two of them from rough terrain (or a violent crash perhaps). Also added a castle sidewinder 3 ESC (wanted quality esc) and a cheap "GooRC" 3100kv brushless motor. She's a little rigged up at the moment but so much fun to drive and hop up. Oh yeah, also has a loud as heck metal spur gear that is doing great. I recently got an "untested" ebay deal on a himoto zmoto3 buggy - that thing smokes!! Really puts the TT-02 to shame performance and even toughness wise (odd comparison, i know). But there is something inherently fun about getting these cars running well, especially going the rally car route. Seeing this thing tear up some dirt is a joy. Even with the current a-arm issues (note the zip ties- sure, a bit of toe-in issue, but it works as a bush fix), it currently is running nicely. Looking forward to running it again tonight...i'm rather addicted to this car! Will be nice to get the A-arms back 100% and get the alignment back to perfect. I added a few pics of its "pre-rally" wheels - also shows the led lights.

I just picked up this body shell with a kit, don't really want a BRZ. $30 USD plus shipping. Comes with body, decals, masks, plastic parts, and light fixtures. And note there are no body post holes, so it will fit any standard wheelbase touring/drift car.

Manual available from tamiya.de! http://www.tamiya.de/de/produkte/rcmodellautos/bausatzelektro/produktdetails.htm?sArtNr=300058608

Hi all, Heres my Noob guide to building a TT02, to note i am a complete novice at this and still dont understand a lot! especially electronics and power systems for RC! This is my 1st attempt at building any RC car (anything RC infact!). Big THANKS to Quandry & The RC Racer for the guides they have done, as that helps a LOT! I've probably messed up along the way, as i got a feeling somethings havent fitted right, guess time will tell on Sunday when it gets powered up!.... Mercedes Benz GT3 #58586 Tamiya TT-02 Few TT02 hop-up parts & Jazrider TT02 hop-ups/Ball Bearings - 2S1P Turnigy ROAR Lipo Power Tamiya SuperStock RZ 23T motor - HiForce/Venon 320a ESC (china special!) - Turnigy TGY-4409MD Digi metal ball Servo - Absima CR2S v2 2.4ghz control system Stage 1: (5pm) All the bits, left on the table for about 1hour while i figured out where to start Oh Crumbs! Thats my Toe! Stage 2: (6:05pm) Bits still out on table, but after re-reading the threads on here and so on, am ready to test my building patience! Stage 3: (6:50pm) Took me ages to figure out how to put together the prop thing! haha!!! As i had the hop-up part, i just kept confusing myself with which part is which part! Stage 4: (7:20pm) Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Trying to hold the motor plate and mount onto the motor to screw it in place was not easy, another thing to take me ages to get going! Got the prop shaft fitted with the joints, bearings etc and slotted into space.... At first, seemed to be some slack on the prop shaft, but had read that others found the prop shaft loose to start with. Stage 5: (8:45pm) Built the Front and Rear Diffs, fitted to the chassis, then added the other bits/arms, etc. Reason this process took for ages is because i got to add the grease to the cogs and all the places it tells you to, DOH!!!!! So had to undo everything and start again after greasing the bits!! Stage 6: (9pm) Motor fitted in easy peasy, although out of the 3 mini things you get to hold the pinion into the motor, i dropped 2 and could'nt/still cant find them! Plate fitted as per instructions.. Stage 7: (9:15pm) All looking good so far i think, next part will be to tackle the Front Upright bits which makes me think a blast of coffee is needed here to steady the hands as the instructions make me think i need to have 4 hands!! ------------ Stage 8: (10:50pm) Front uprights fitted and screwed to the arms, etc..... All that time to do just the fronts...... Yup, you guessed it, forgot the grease again!! DOH! Undo it all again, add grease to the bones, bearings, etc and then refit, super finicky, didnt like doing this part! Real ballache! Stage 9: (11:20pm) Rears complete, remembered the grease this time and found the rears easier to fit (as read on Quandrys thread).... Although the rear right arm/upright didnt seem to fit right when pushing in the screw pin.... took some bodging which has resulted in the rear suspension not looking equal --------- Stage 10: (11:50pm) Shocks fitted and all other bits that go with it, but left screws lose, as forgot to buy damper oil for the shocks..... Built the tamiya ones, but the blue ones look better! Stage 11: (3am) 3 hours straight of pulling my hair out wondering why bits dont fit, turns out i was connecting bits the wrong way round! DOH!!!! and forgeting more greaseing!! The bits to lock in the steering linkage seemed a right pain, but i put that down to me being a novice.. I screwed the steering bits really tight, so there is no 'play' at all in the linkages, not sure if they are supposed to be lose, am sure i will find out the hard way once powered up! Confused myself lots over the servo and bits it uses, turns out you use the Tamiya bits and only the Servo, not ANY of the servo bits! Think i am getting somewhere with it now, and it all looks like it is fitting into place! Stage 12: (3:44am) Just fitted brake discs, motor cover and checked screw points.... Wife gets out of bed and comes storming into the office/stuies playroom , get an earful so time to goto bed! Its now Friday, just gotta wait for the Absima TX/RX to turn up on Saturday, and hopefully my hong kong wheels and i should be cooking on gas, thats providing; A: Once the Lipo battery is powered and plugged in, the car doesnt blow up cos i have done something wrong B: Drive it straight into the Kerb or Wall! C: Something else goes wrong! Lovely jubbley! - Total spent including 2 shells = £327 (quite a few parts from HongKong as cheaper, and i'm a savvy shopper anyway! )

Hi Clubsters,I've just purchased a pretty large job lot of genuine,bagged,Tamiya spares.After taking what I need there are many bits and pieces left,particularly for the NDF-01,TT-01,TB02 and a small amount of other parts including a couple of TL-01 chassis.If you need any parts for these models let me know and I'll see if I have it.I'll go on to list what's left on eBay but before I do I'd like to help any members out if possible,all the best,gary

Hi all, I am new to the RC scene, in terms of wanting to build one from scratch... I bought a TA-05 car 2 years ago, someone had already built it as a shelf queen, looked like standard parts + Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor. From that, I didn't get chance to learn about the RC setup, just went straight in with razzing it in the street, which was great fun, and easy to drive.... Then I got introduced to an RC club, went along, and did the carpet racing indoors. For me, not having a clue, this is where it went wrong, tires didn't like carpet, everyone else was twice as fast, but more importantly, I was like Tom Cruise in 'Days of Thunder', ie: I hit everything!! After a few sessions, I got the hang of the track, but still kept on bashing into the walls, which eventually killed my car, the drive shaft/dogbone thingys wouldn't stay in, so wheels wouldn't spin, etc... Eventually sold as Spares and gave up the idea... However, am back on the case again, and want to build my own, and learn from the ground up, so would appreciate some help here please :) I set myself a budget of upto £300, to build a car which I will use outdoor (dry), and hopefully race indoors on carpet with other RC peeps (against other slow drivers!) I like the look of other cars I see which have the blue hop-up parts, that also makes me think the hop-up parts are a bit stronger, so in terms of novices like me, can take a bashing when on a track (well, a bit better than normal parts!)... So ideally, I was looking to buy a few hop-up parts which strengthen the wheel area for when hitting walls.... However, I wouldn't know where to start with which bag of bits to buy ? My shopping list currently: TT-01E - Nissan GTR Shell - comes with std Silver can and a TEU-104BK ESC = £126 Turnigy GTX3 2.4gz controller/Receiver = £40 (I assume it will work with any Tamiya ESC ??) or cheapo alternative is a 'FLY SKY FS-GT2' control/rece for £19 Ansmann Racing EX-High Speed Servo AR-700BB = £17.24 / or High Torque AR-710BB , same price.... wouldn't know which to choose... Charger I like the look of is a x2 battery charger - Fusion NX82 = £28 (and a few batteries which are 3000 or higher) That list is basic, but enough to get me started in building something that would run... Guess I would need Paint, Tamiya toolkit and possibly a cutter if shell not already cut? But............. These are the other things I looked at which I like.. TEU-105BK ESC = £23 Sport Tuned motor = £19 / Tamiya GT-Tuned motor = £25 / Tamiya SuperStock RZ motor = £36 And this: this is what I think would be a good idea............... Tamiya TT-01R KIT, comes with a Tamiya Lightly Tuned Motor (28T), motor alone is worth £26. Description for the TT01R says it comes with Hop-up parts already, but as a kit, will cost £125 + servo + TEU-105BK controller + 1/10 Shell + controller/recei.... Am I way out ? or on the right track, the TT01R makes me think its a fast car already and has super duper bits to it, but that could just be me reading it wrong? cheers guys...