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Being the loving, wonderful, supportive women she is my wife wanted to buy me a RC related gift for Christmas. She knows next to nothing about RC, but, as an intelligent academic and Cambridge educated qualitative researcher she used all her knowledge, training and skills, put in the hard hours internet searching, phoned numerous model shops and… brought me two cars on exactly the same TT02 chassis. Mrs Nick realised this on Christmas Eve but wrapped them anyway safe in the knowledge that Wonderland had said she could return one in January if it wasn’t what I had wanted. I would guess they were surprised someone was ordering the same chassis twice and upon her recounting the ordering conversation to me it sounds like they were delicately trying to suggest she may be making a mistake. Anyhoo, on Christmas morning I unwrapped two new cars. A Porsche 911 RSR, on the TT02 touring chassis, and a Ford GT mk11, on the TT02 touring chassis. Both very cool looking bodies, Mrs Nick always chooses well in the aesthetics department… just look at me… but both exactly the same. So then what to do? Initial thoughts were to return one for something else but that didn’t seem quite right. Mrs Nick really liked the look of both cars and it seemed ungrateful. I considered keeping one chassis and selling one using the spare body on an upcoming touring project I had planned (TA08 or TC01 wasn’t sure then, I’m still not). Or maybe something else… Everyone agrees that the TT02 is a good value, fun capable little chassis but needs a few modifications to unlock the true potential. As Tamiya’s most successful and numerous car there are lots and lots of Hop Ups available from numerous manufacturers, at numerous price points. I was going to modify both cars to different standards and see which one was best. Like all the best ideas this one has been ripped off wholesale from excitable American car Youtubers Doughnut Media. Their Hi-Lo series (which is pretty good fun) will form the basis for this build. So on to the rules: Each car will be built stock and run in to start with. One car, the Porsche, will receive genuine Tamiya Hop-Ups the other, the Ford, will receive cheaper equivalent aftermarket options. Each Hop-Up will be intended to solve a recognised problem with the TT02 Each Hop Up will be introduced separately. Price and manufacturer noted and installed exactly to the instructions provided. Each Hop Up will be judged by the wholly scientific standard of me deciding which is best after giving them a bit of a run around a carpark. At the end of the process, I’m thinking four or five modifications, there will be a bit of a carpark time trial and a winner crowned. The victorious car will secure its place in the Nick-W fleet and will have bestowed upon it a lovely new motor and high-speed gear set. The losing car will be cast upon the tender mercies of Ebay. If you’ve managed to get this far welcome to my first build thread and my first attempt at using image hosting (edit: or not). I think this one is going to be a bit of a long ride as I get around to installing new bit and pieces every couple of weeks or so. So please join me for a thread of poor decisions, poor grammar, poor spelling and poor driving as we try to answer the perennial RC question: Are Tamiya Hop-Ups worth the cost?

I loved the retro Porsche 911 Safari cars and when the TT-02 RSR was released it clicked! Here is a simple TT-02 build. Car has been completed prior to the write up but I will try to map out the steps I took should you want to try something similar. Many thanks to a few people in the “what did I do today” group for help This build is low budget with no major hop-ups. Items include: TT-02 car kit bearings Subrau Brat tires 2 pairs of CVA dampers 18 pinion gear 35T Yeah Racing crawler motor Yeah Racing roof rack with LED 934 Porsche light bucket kit and LED kit Paint Hobbywing ESC Waterproof servo TT01 Truck foam bumper Edited: Cover photo updated

Hi Guys! Wondering if some of you might be able to help me out here as I am new to the exciting world of RC. A quick briefing: I am looking into getting a TT02 for a project and came across the Eagle Racing TT02 GRT AWD CS Drift Chassis, which I fell in love with as it comes fully carbon & blue bling goodness. Question is, can a CS Drift chassis be run as a Touring Spec Chassis? How will CS differential affect track handling? And would Swapping the CS from front to rear make handling better as power bias would be f75/r35 (roughly) through the drivetrain? Also, are drift chassis more fragile than their Touring brothers? Many Thanks!

I'm going to be building a touring/drift car with a TT02 chassis. My questions are: 1: What motor and ESC should I get? Is this combo good? https://www.hobbywing.com/mobile/goods.php?id=578&filter_attr=5456.0 2: Should I get a TT02 Type SR, TT02R or a TT02 Type S? The prices I found: TT02 Type SR 199€ TT02R 126€ TT02 Type S 157€ 3: What hop ups would you recommend?

I thought I would share quickly my latest TT-02 iteration. The idea was to have a fully adjustable chassis that uses standard - rather than type S - TT-02 parts. Also I wanted to make sure the original parts would not require complex modifications and that the number of custom parts would be reduced to an absolute minimum. The result is also mechanically "clean" in that there is no unwanted change in caster as the suspension compress. The extra holes on the plate allow adjusting roll center when using type-S shock towers. So here it is! I am quite happy with how it turned out. I can now dial in camber, caster, bump steer and Ackerman.

EDIT - I guess I should clarify. I'm looking for the Audi 1991-1992 V8 paint schemes, on this model only. While I appreciate the suggestions, I am only looking for paint schemes on this body ONLY. Please refrain from posting anything other than 1:1 1991-1992 Audi V8's, or their RC counterparts. Video game liveries are good as long as they are on the Audi V8. Thanks -END EDIT I've previously painted up my 1991 Audi V8 in a factory type style. I have another unpainted 1992 Audi V8 body that I'm going to do next, as the first one is showing its age. So I want to do another Not-boxart body. But I want to see what you all have done If you've done either of these bodies for inspiration. Let me know what colors you used. -RC Perspective

Hey guys (and gals), Got a question for those of you who have owned/currently own a 1973 911 Carrera RSR on a TT02 chassis. What height do you have the body mounted? IE bottom of the body at the front bumper relative to the bottom line of the chassis. 0mm being even at the bottom line of the chassis, +mm for above the bottom line of the chassis, and -mm for below the bottom line of the chassis. Same for the rear. I know there most likely aren't a whole lot of people with one, but since I'm making aero parts I want to get a consensus on body heights. Thanks in advance! -RC Perspective

So I'm new here, but not new to RC or Tamiya. I have only just joined Tamiya Club after lurking for years. And salivating over the fastest Tamiya list and all the build threads and information on here. I'd like to contribute knowledge and more builds for the site. I come from a long background of auto mechanics and electronic engineering. More of a Jack-of-all-trades, but specifically engineering, both mechanical and electronic, also fabrication and Physics. That's the most relevant experience in the RC hobby, so I'll stop with the background there, and if there is anything you want to know, feel free to ask in the thread or shoot me a PM. Onto the juicy bits. This build is almost complete, but being I only just joined the forum, I'll drip feed the pics and info starting at the beginning. As most of you already know how the TT02 is assembled, I'll leave most of the base assembly out of here and highlight certain things along the way. After previously building a TT02R, and wasting glorious money on it (not as crazy as some), then a budget TT02 build setup for rally, I decided to build a RWD TT02 chassis, mainly for drift, but also for hooning around from time to time. I built the TT02 knowing full well that there are way better choices for out of the box drifting out there. And sure I can toss a Tamiya body on it to make them look better. But what can I say, I absolutely love Tamiya, and I like a good challenge. Now that that is out of the way, Lets start at the beginning. I've been eyeing the 911 Carrera RSR body since buying my TT02R about a year ago. And I absolutely love building things from scratch and adding my own little twists to them. But I figured it'd be fun to build a TT02 that's as challenging to drive fast as a real Porsche from the same era, with way too much power LOL. I haven't driven a Porsche, or MR or RR in real life. Though I do drive an 89 Camaro and Gran Turismo nailed the handling on the Camaro. What I would do in game would translate to what the car would do in real life, so it's strikingly close. I've always joked that I learned how to drive by playing all the GT's profusely growing up and even now. So I know that most of the Porsches are a handful to drive, and that line is easy to cross. If you've driven a Porsche hard, you know exactly what line I mean. So why not scale it down and make it EVEN more difficult? Like I said, I like a challenge. So I bought the TT02 1992 Audi V8 kit, and the 1973 Carrera RSR body set. That's the rally build next to it on the work bench. The wonderful feeling of having a new kit in front of you and the giddy feeling you get when the hop-ups start arriving! 1992 Audi V8 TT02 kit - 58699A (Comes with THW 1060 Brushed ESC instead of TBLE-04S) 1973 Porsche Carrera RSR Body Set - 51543 Winter Evening TT02 bearing kit - Ebay Square TT02 Drift Steering - STD-217D Tamiya Mini CVA Shocks - 54753 (Came with the TT02R) Tamiya Adjustable Upper Arm Set - 54874 Tamiya Aluminum Motor Plate - 54558 (came in my TT02R kit) Tamiya Universal TG10 shafts - 54394 (Bought for the TT02R) Tamiya Universal Cup Joints - 54477 Tamiya Low Friction Suspension Balls - 54559 Tamiya TBLE-04S ESC - 45069 (Looking to replace or use a BEC) Ebay Sensored Brushless 13.5T Surpass Hobbies 16KG Servo - S1600BL 5mm Bullets for the motor wires Couple sensor cables of various lengths FGr4 V2 Rx for FlySky Noble NB4 TX - FGr4 SkyRC Gyro - GC301 Power Hobbies Blue 25T Servo Horn Chronologically this is my third TT02 build. The TT02R was first, and the budget rally build was second. So two more TT02 build threads to come. -RC Perspective

I know this has been beaten to death, but wanted to start a build thread for a Datsun 240z rally build on a TT02 chassis. I would have rather just bought a DF03ra chassis with the Datsun body when they were available a few months ago, but I took too long to pull the trigger. I enjoy building my cars as scale as possible, and have learned a lot from scouring threads on this great forum. Here are two threads I will be using as a reference, many thanks to the authors. To start with I purchased this kit from Tower hobbies for $104 with free shipping. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVHK&P=SM After I bought the kit and started buying all the hop up parts I realized it would have been cheaper to buy this kit. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCWD&P=SM This kit comes with a sport tuned motor, rubber shielded bearings, cva oil dampers, adjustable steering toe in, and beefier shock towers. Hopefully someone can learn from my mistake...lol. Here is the kit as it arrived the other day.

Welcome AGAIN!! 😊👍👍 So about 4 years ago, I first had the hairbrained idea to build a Car, bit by bit!! SEEMED like a good idea at the time. In reality it DOES have one distinct advantage..... I was able to get cool Upgrades along the way, without a big waste of Kit parts, that weren't used!! 👍👍 Like #47339 Blue FRP Chassis Tub (which I'm glad I got, because it's now DISCONTINUED!) 😖 #54501 Blue Alumininium Propshaft and #54502 Blue Propshaft Ends #DSG0060PU Yeah Racing 60mm Aluminum Shocks, with SIX Spring Options! (I had replaced the YR O-Ring Seals with Team Associated X-Rings FOUR years ago... They were all FULL of Oil tonight! 😁👍👍 #TATT-047BU Blue Yeah Racing Aluminum CVDs (FAT, stock style) 15KG Metal Gear Servo, and of COURSE a full Fast Eddy Bearing Set!! 😉 And... A Kimborough Servo Saver - the ONLY thing I use when I DO actually use a Servo Saver!! 😜 Clearly, it NEEDS things.... Aluminum Steering for imperative starters. I'd LIKE Oil-Filled Diffs, but it's not an emergency. Aluminum C-Hubs, front and rear - but LEAVING the Plastic A-Arms, to have a cheap point of breakage! I DON'T HAVE A FRONT URETHANE BUMPER!!! 😖 IF anyone has a spare, I'd really appreciate one...

I've kind of got to the point where I look around my basement and realize just how deep into this RC hobby I've gotten. I've been enamored with RC since I was about 15 and as I sail past my mid 40's every now and again I take a step back and look at the horde I've accumulated. Pretty much my entire basement is now a hobby shop, and stuff just keeps coming in. It occurred to me that if I got hit by a runaway chicken truck tomorrow, how on earth would my wife sort out this mess? To that end, I've put a hold on new purchases for now, and embarked on a project to sort, categorize, and assign approximate value to everything I own.... it's quite the project and something I wish I had been doing as I went! As I've been sorting though stuff, I've been finding all kinds of bits that are leftover from previous builds - partial kits that I've robbed, plundered, or parted out over the years. Not to mention quite a few restoration projects that I started and got distracted by some other shiny new object and just never finished. About 1/3 of my collection is projects that are "in progress.." So in-between sorting, I've been tinkering with some of the projects I've forgotten I had. Messing around with a Tamiya always brings a smile to my face, and reminds me of the simple fun I had when I first got into this hobby - something I'm sure many of you feel as well. So, to that end, I'd like to post up some of the Tamiya projects I come across. I used to buy and restore vintage Tamiya quite often - tearing down a car, cleaning it and rebuilding/modifying is one of my absolute favorite things to do in this hobby! However prices lately seem to have gone through the roof, and parts have been slowly drying up since the MAP price increase years ago - I guess there's no more profit in parting out anymore, so I've since stopped and stick to new kits. Thankfully, I've accumulated enough stuff to keep me busy for quite a while. So instead of posting several different threads, I thought I'd create just one and post up projects as I go. Updates will be somewhat sporadic as my main goal is my spreadsheet, but I DO want to finish these if nothing else as it makes them easier to classify. So far I've found a Bearhawk, Falcon, King Cab, most of a King Blackfoot, Thunder Dragon, Bruiser, and a dual motor M02. Not to mention about a dozen newer kits in bits I can piece together, and some that just need some paint - CC01, TA03, DF03RA, and more. About 20 in all that I hope to have finished by Spring. Drop in once in a while and see what's cooking! ------------------------ Alright, enough blather - let's see some pics! First thing that caught my eye was this poor Monster Beetle Trail. I stole the portals for my TL01 and the body and gearbox were built and sitting on the shelf. Sorting though my TL/MF/WT/GF parts box (since they all intermix) I found a simple TL01 suspension and grafted it on. (Note the unfinished WW2, Konghead, and TL. More fodder for later builds. :)) However, the wheel wells on this body don't line up at all. Not sure if this was a re-pop from something or a newly designed body, but it's not even close. Without the portals, the tires hit the body terribly. Normally I would shave the body to accommodate, but instead I messed around a bit and come up with...Tada! TL01B arms move the wheels out much further. With the short WB and wide stance it looked silly with the stock wheels so I slapped on some SC wheels with a bunch of positive offset to bring the width back in. I think the stance is spot on! I'm undecided on wheels and tires just yet, but going with SC wheels and tires gives me a lot of options. It's just mocked up for now, but I like it. Need to figure out some electronics, sort out some details and do some painting.

I've been an rc guy on and off and after ALL those years, off-road kits only. I've never had the urge for a road kit but a guy I follow on Instagram kind of got me fired up on these TT-02 kits. My question. If I want a different look for my TT-02 is it as simple as buying a different body kit and wheels to switch things up?

Hello everyone from Corsa Rc! We just opened up a few months ago. We are an indoor on road rc racetrack for 1/10 rc and smaller! We also have a hobby shop as well. We mainly race Tamiya and mainly carry Tamiya rc cars and parts! We are located in Vancouver, WA and hold races weekly! Check out our website www.corsarc.com or give us a call 360-977-9818!

Mazda3 TT02 with red FRP chassis. Modded with Fast Eddy bearings, Yeah Racing dampers, drive cups, and CVDs. includes all unused parts including receiver box and spare fasteners. I lost one out drive cup, hence the aftermarket parts. All instruction sheets, plus complete, unused decal sheet. No TX, RX or servo. Comes with original ESC and silver can motor, plus spare Trackstar 21t 550 motor. Knockoff rally blocks are mounted and will include original road tires and wheels. The paint is rough. I’m not skilled at it. This is either a challenge for one skilled in restoring lexan shells, or a good basher shell. It’s all in the original box. Weight is 85 ounces, box dimensions are 6 x 10 x 20. Shipping will be separate from price. If you’re local, just come pick it up. I’m limited in my photo uploads, so message me if you want too see more. Thanks Edit: also gonna shill for an LC Racing EMB-1 I’m selling, $150 USD.

Is there a 911 bodyshell that a) fits a TT02 shell wheelbase and b) is readily available as a body set.

Hello, Anyone who has the Quadtrack manual, would you be willing to share an electronic version? It's baffling Tamiya in the last 12 months has slowed down launching manuals online, we used to get them a month or so before launch but it's been four months and I still can't find one.......just want to have a look before purchase

Hello! After recently completing a CC01 Defender, I fancied something that would handle better on tarmac, as well as a bit of off-road. I also liked the idea of having a chassis that I could upgrade as I went along, and there looked to be loads of options for the TT02. I’m also a big fan of the Integrale! And so after a few days wait. As I’m sure there have been loads of TT02 builds, I’ll spare you the details! The only thing I couldn’t resist was to detail the brake discs, not that you can see them that well through the wheels. And so after roughly a day of building. After airbrushing my Defenders body, I thought I’d use the proper stuff and use Tamiya polycarbonate paint this time. Not sure how much easier it was though as it really gave off fumes, and seems to really attract dust between coats. When I’d applied 3 or 4 white coats, I applied a few layers of smoke for the windows. Id also read from this forum about using washing up liquid to apply the stickers, and a hairdryer to help mould the stickers and fix into position. This worked way better than just sticking them on as I had with the defender. But what a lot of stickers! I think it took half a day to get this far! Used some satin car paint on the grill after masking. And after a day of stickering! Really happy with how it turned out, although a few little mistakes with the stickers. Took her down the park for a test drive and handled well on Tarmac, but she seemed to really struggle on grass! But handled a lot better than the defender that wanted to topple over on every turn.

I have two real nice all aluminum shocks that were on a ta02 I got and would like to get a full set/repair the one I have.they are 60 mm big bores with no marking or logos. they look like tt02 hop ups to me but i am not sure.

So, here's the new project that's getting a body...........

Hello guys Finally after I got my yeah racing steering upgrade for my tt02 , I bought a digital servo 25kg from Amazon and connected it with my tt02 , the problem I noticed is that the servo range is wider than the car steering limit , so when I try to steer right or left the car steering stop is reached but the servo is still not finished and have few more degrees to move right or left . Which will force the steering to move more than it limit and cause problems, My question is , is it possible to reduce the range of the servo? Or its better to try a new servo ? Thanks

Hello guys its me again :p so i was suffering while building my tt02 , its finally done , but for some reason steering is not working properly, please check the 3 videos below. one video show that my servo is working correctly ( as far as I know ) second video show how my steering is jammed and slow when I move it with my hand last video show how it does not move when connected to my servo what have I done wrong ? thanks 20201025_000439_1_1.mp4 20201025_000601_1_1.mp4

There are two recent variants of the TT-02 Type S worth considering for this; the standard kit (58600) which remains widely available and if you can still find one, the drift spec kit (47301). I purchased the TT-02D Type S because it was on offer at £99 (not to be confused with the standard non Type S TT-02 drift chassis 58584). I decided to build this rally car from the Type S chassis kit simply to see how good it would be and to answer many of the common questions which appear on here and in other forums on the suitability of the Type S for rally. I have owned a variety of the standard Tamiya rally cars over the years and although I haven't finished this yet, based on the rolling chassis and ground clearance it looks like it is going to be pretty decent for bashing. The standard TT-02 rally cars, which currently come in either the Lancia (58570) or Subaru (58631) variants, are ok but as per all regular TT-02 kits they lack any real adjustability. Notable exclusions from the standard kits which in my view should be essential for Rally are ball bearings and oil damped shocks. Common questions on setting up the TT-02 Type S as a Rally Car: 1) Why chose the Type S variant over the regular TT-02? The Type S is a much higher specification TT-02 and has a number of aftermarket parts including: [1] FRP suspension arms (51297), FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 ), [2] FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647), [3] metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056), [4] Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746), [5] full ball bearings, [6] adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms, and [7] steel suspension mounts (54634). The TT-02D Type S variant (now discontinued) also includes the Tamiya aluminium propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502). The cost of buying all these separately as hop-ups including the spacers and screws and other extras not mentioned could easily be the cost of the kit again at ~£100. 2) I understand you can't increase ground clearance at the front with the FRP suspension arms? This is true in standard form because the upgraded FRP front arms are restricted where the axle upright meets the suspension arm cross bar. Removing a small amount of material from the suspension arm cross bar, increases the ground clearance significantly. The steps to do this are shown further below. 3) How much ground clearance can I get? With a small amount of material removed from the front suspension arm cross bar, using the standard CVA Super Mini Shocks with the short lower shock eyelet at the front and long eyelet at the back; the ground clearance is 1” / 25mm. You can increase this further both front and back but the maximum is approximately 35mm before the dogbone style driveshafts and turnbuckles are at a comfortable limit. 25mm is plenty for off road with this chassis and its off road capability is really limited more by wheel/tyre size beyond this. 4) Do I need to upgrade the Super Mini CVA Shocks which are included to Mini or Short CVA Shocks? No, they are perfectly fine as they come in the kit. The Super Mini CVA Shocks (50746) can be built to a standard length of 56mm using the short length lower eyelet and 62mm using the long length lower eyelet. Both of these eyelets are included on the parts tree and with the adjustability of the arms you can max out suspension travel and ground clearance with the Super Mini Shocks. The difference between the Super Mini CVA Shocks and regular Mini CVA Shocks is in the damper piston body. This is shorter on the Super Mini Shock but the piston rod is the same length allowing the same maximum stroke. When building The Type S chassis up in Rally Spec, there are a few considerations: 1) You will need a body. 2) You will need an ESC. 3) You will need Rally Block tyres. The standard rims are 1.9" (49mm) so Tamiya Rally Block tyres (50476) will fit. Modifications 1) The main modification needed on this chassis to increase the ground clearance is to the front suspension arms (51297). The rear suspension is free moving. a) The extract from the manual below shows where the binding occurs. You simply file the material away on the suspension arm cross bar (highlighted in green) to the new profile. I used a square needle file with blank edges so no material was removed from the side of the arms. I chose to remove material on the cross bar rather than the axle upright since the profile on the axle looks to be key to achieving integrity of the whole upright part. 2) The rear CVA Super Mini Shock unit needs to be built with the long eyelet (tree part 2) from the parts tree not the short eyelet (tree part 1). The front uses the short eyelet as per the standard instructions. 3) Instead of installing the suspension arms so the orientation is for the 2 mounting holes for the ball connectors that connect to the lower shock eyelets; the arms are reversed to orientate with the 3 mounting holes. These arms are fully reversible so this is fine. If the images don't show up for you below let me know and I will re host.

Simple (multi-part) question really: Is THIS part absolutely necessary (on the rear) for a fully functional TT02? How about a TT02 Type-S? If yes, what alternate parts can I use that are less bulky? : I ask because it's one of the few parts remaining for me to have a complete TT02 just from unused bits.

I built up a TT02 Type S Rally Car recently with the intention of getting a set of drift wheels and switching between the two. But, as I suspected, there is a lot more involved set-up wise in getting both the rally car and the drift car to perform well. So I decided I really needed two cars. I wanted to stick with Tamiya, and I also wanted them both to be 4wd. I have toyed with the idea of getting an XV-01 (which I still may do in the future), but there is just something about the shaft driven TT-02 I really like. I bought a lexan chassis cover for the Rally Car which took car of the off road duties, and picked up another Type S to build up as a drift car. Now, although I wanted to stick with Tamiya I did do some research into specific RWD drift cars just to be sure, and rule them out. The nearest club to me is an hour and a half drive. Had it have been half an hour I may have gone down the route of an MST RMX or Yokomo YD-2 etc. But, as I have a good amount of TT-02 spares, the 2 other people I know with drift cars have well set up TT-02's, and I have a nice large patio with a fresh covering of buttery smooth tarmac (which I intentionally specified to my Wife when we had it re-surfaced last year), I opted to stay with the TT-02. With the background of this build out of the way, let's move on to the pics. Simple start with a nice TT-02 Deck, and Tamiya's alloy propellor shaft and joints. Alloy locker for the rear diff. TT-01 one way diff for the front. This is a lovely piece to build. Super smooth action. And, both diffs installed. I installed this Surpass 13.5t that was for my DT-03, but it'll be removed when I can find where I've put the 10.5t motor I want to use in this. Shock towers added, and I also shimmed the arms to remove any play. More coming soon...

After a year long hiatus, I’m back! The weather has turned, and with warm weather, the RC bug bites. I have been really enjoying my first rally car, a TT02 Datsun 240z. The build thread is on here somewhere. Some pics. http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// I am now going to try and build a Porsche 911 rally on a TT02 chassis. I love the versatility of the rally chassis, and my Datsun is a blast to drive. Can’t wait to get started.