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Start date 01/2025 Body - Traxxas Chassis - TT02 or TRF419 Electrics - Ambitions - As nice as a paint job as I can achieve. I am quite intimidated by the livery but I will try my best to replicate it. Some areas will need simplifying. I love the look of the latest Mustang GT3 and concepts leading up to it. I think the liveries on all of them look phenomenal.

Hi, I'm building a TT-02 and decided to fit Oil filled diffs, 22049. Unfortunately, no one told me that the diff output drive cups are different to the standard ones, and so the standard drive shafts are too big. Can anyone please tell me which drive shafts I need to use? Atb, Phil.

Tamiya Race Day Saturday 15th March @ Medway RC Raceway Unit A, 33, 37 Second Ave, Chatham, Kent. UK Link to event info on Facebook A morning filled with racing open to all on road Tamiya models from TT02 to Ta08 to TT01E truck racing and if there is enough interest they will run a Tamiya F1 race as well. Rules: Tamiya only and restricted to any brushed motor and ESC only. No brushless systems will be allowed. Schedule: Practice starts at 10 AM, and racing kicks off at 11 AM. Format: 3 heats + a final where everyone gets a chance to race! Fees: £10 for adults, £9 for children. What you’ll need: An iRace transponder (available onsite £19 if you need one). A LiPo bag for charging LiPo batteries (available at the track if you don't already have one). You can watch a video of the last events A final here

I have finally fulfilled a long-held dream. I made an RC car hop-up part out of wood. It is made of 3mm walnut veneer. I took the measurements, sawed it, sanded it, drilled two holes and oiled it. It fits wonderfully! Useful? Well, I am just loving it. Love always helps, isn't it? Apart from the visual effect, it also helps to keep dirt away. As far as I know, Tamiya's history began with wooden toys. In all modesty, I see my walnut XM01 Pro chassis cover as part of a beautiful Tamiya tradition. 🙂

I need the ball joints that fit into the steering arms of the TT02. from the manual it looks to be part P7 (51005), can they be bought separately? 2 suppliers can’t say for definite if the ball joints come with the servo arm set. I have 4 ball shaped parts already but they are too small to clip in. Thanks in advance

Finished my TT02, added a few hop-ups including the Yeah racing aluminum/ball bearing steering kit. Still seems like a pretty limited steering angle, and I'm using alot of power steering in tight turns. Servo has plenty of room left left/right to turn more sharply. Is there an easy mod to increase turn in/decrease turn radius?

Looking to get another build going. Just about done with the latest, an M08 Want to get something like maybe a TT02 of some kind. The desired capabilities as follows... 15 to 20 minute walk on mixture of tarmac, gravel and grass to a bit of beach to have a bit of a bash on. Fails so far are a Clodbuster (battery didn't last all the way to the beach - had to be carried) A Blackfoot (made it to the beach, all the way into the sea, caught fire - had to be carried) An HPI Bullet (hit a blade of grass and jammed a dogbone - had to be carried) Winners so far are my wife's Lunchbox and a nasty FTX Bugsta thing, also my wife's I fancy a TT02 mostly because there seems to be plenty of bits and pieces available and a massive choice of bodies. Any advice or suggestions welcome. Thanks

So I'm new here, but not new to RC or Tamiya. I have only just joined Tamiya Club after lurking for years. And salivating over the fastest Tamiya list and all the build threads and information on here. I'd like to contribute knowledge and more builds for the site. I come from a long background of auto mechanics and electronic engineering. More of a Jack-of-all-trades, but specifically engineering, both mechanical and electronic, also fabrication and Physics. That's the most relevant experience in the RC hobby, so I'll stop with the background there, and if there is anything you want to know, feel free to ask in the thread or shoot me a PM. Onto the juicy bits. This build is almost complete, but being I only just joined the forum, I'll drip feed the pics and info starting at the beginning. As most of you already know how the TT02 is assembled, I'll leave most of the base assembly out of here and highlight certain things along the way. After previously building a TT02R, and wasting glorious money on it (not as crazy as some), then a budget TT02 build setup for rally, I decided to build a RWD TT02 chassis, mainly for drift, but also for hooning around from time to time. I built the TT02 knowing full well that there are way better choices for out of the box drifting out there. And sure I can toss a Tamiya body on it to make them look better. But what can I say, I absolutely love Tamiya, and I like a good challenge. Now that that is out of the way, Lets start at the beginning. I've been eyeing the 911 Carrera RSR body since buying my TT02R about a year ago. And I absolutely love building things from scratch and adding my own little twists to them. But I figured it'd be fun to build a TT02 that's as challenging to drive fast as a real Porsche from the same era, with way too much power LOL. I haven't driven a Porsche, or MR or RR in real life. Though I do drive an 89 Camaro and Gran Turismo nailed the handling on the Camaro. What I would do in game would translate to what the car would do in real life, so it's strikingly close. I've always joked that I learned how to drive by playing all the GT's profusely growing up and even now. So I know that most of the Porsches are a handful to drive, and that line is easy to cross. If you've driven a Porsche hard, you know exactly what line I mean. So why not scale it down and make it EVEN more difficult? Like I said, I like a challenge. So I bought the TT02 1992 Audi V8 kit, and the 1973 Carrera RSR body set. That's the rally build next to it on the work bench. The wonderful feeling of having a new kit in front of you and the giddy feeling you get when the hop-ups start arriving! 1992 Audi V8 TT02 kit - 58699A (Comes with THW 1060 Brushed ESC instead of TBLE-04S) 1973 Porsche Carrera RSR Body Set - 51543 Winter Evening TT02 bearing kit - Ebay Square TT02 Drift Steering - STD-217D Tamiya Mini CVA Shocks - 54753 (Came with the TT02R) Tamiya Adjustable Upper Arm Set - 54874 Tamiya Aluminum Motor Plate - 54558 (came in my TT02R kit) Tamiya Universal TG10 shafts - 54394 (Bought for the TT02R) Tamiya Universal Cup Joints - 54477 Tamiya Low Friction Suspension Balls - 54559 Tamiya TBLE-04S ESC - 45069 (Looking to replace or use a BEC) Ebay Sensored Brushless 13.5T Surpass Hobbies 16KG Servo - S1600BL 5mm Bullets for the motor wires Couple sensor cables of various lengths FGr4 V2 Rx for FlySky Noble NB4 TX - FGr4 SkyRC Gyro - GC301 Power Hobbies Blue 25T Servo Horn Chronologically this is my third TT02 build. The TT02R was first, and the budget rally build was second. So two more TT02 build threads to come. -RC Perspective

I loved the retro Porsche 911 Safari cars and when the TT-02 RSR was released it clicked! Here is a simple TT-02 build. Car has been completed prior to the write up but I will try to map out the steps I took should you want to try something similar. Many thanks to a few people in the “what did I do today” group for help This build is low budget with no major hop-ups. Items include: TT-02 car kit bearings Subrau Brat tires 2 pairs of CVA dampers 18 pinion gear 35T Yeah Racing crawler motor Yeah Racing roof rack with LED 934 Porsche light bucket kit and LED kit Paint Hobbywing ESC Waterproof servo TT01 Truck foam bumper Edited: Cover photo updated

Any suggestions on a livery using 3 colors for this body? I want to use these wheels and tires from protoform on my Tamiya TT02R. But my question is what width hex adapters should I use to get a setup that makes the wheels sit as close to the fenders as possible? (Using 31mm wheels for the back and 26mm for the front). But I have read that these tires are not very grippy, are there any tires that have more grip than the VTA ones that fit the 31/26mm rims? (going to be running it on the street)

Being the loving, wonderful, supportive women she is my wife wanted to buy me a RC related gift for Christmas. She knows next to nothing about RC, but, as an intelligent academic and Cambridge educated qualitative researcher she used all her knowledge, training and skills, put in the hard hours internet searching, phoned numerous model shops and… brought me two cars on exactly the same TT02 chassis. Mrs Nick realised this on Christmas Eve but wrapped them anyway safe in the knowledge that Wonderland had said she could return one in January if it wasn’t what I had wanted. I would guess they were surprised someone was ordering the same chassis twice and upon her recounting the ordering conversation to me it sounds like they were delicately trying to suggest she may be making a mistake. Anyhoo, on Christmas morning I unwrapped two new cars. A Porsche 911 RSR, on the TT02 touring chassis, and a Ford GT mk11, on the TT02 touring chassis. Both very cool looking bodies, Mrs Nick always chooses well in the aesthetics department… just look at me… but both exactly the same. So then what to do? Initial thoughts were to return one for something else but that didn’t seem quite right. Mrs Nick really liked the look of both cars and it seemed ungrateful. I considered keeping one chassis and selling one using the spare body on an upcoming touring project I had planned (TA08 or TC01 wasn’t sure then, I’m still not). Or maybe something else… Everyone agrees that the TT02 is a good value, fun capable little chassis but needs a few modifications to unlock the true potential. As Tamiya’s most successful and numerous car there are lots and lots of Hop Ups available from numerous manufacturers, at numerous price points. I was going to modify both cars to different standards and see which one was best. Like all the best ideas this one has been ripped off wholesale from excitable American car Youtubers Doughnut Media. Their Hi-Lo series (which is pretty good fun) will form the basis for this build. So on to the rules: Each car will be built stock and run in to start with. One car, the Porsche, will receive genuine Tamiya Hop-Ups the other, the Ford, will receive cheaper equivalent aftermarket options. Each Hop-Up will be intended to solve a recognised problem with the TT02 Each Hop Up will be introduced separately. Price and manufacturer noted and installed exactly to the instructions provided. Each Hop Up will be judged by the wholly scientific standard of me deciding which is best after giving them a bit of a run around a carpark. At the end of the process, I’m thinking four or five modifications, there will be a bit of a carpark time trial and a winner crowned. The victorious car will secure its place in the Nick-W fleet and will have bestowed upon it a lovely new motor and high-speed gear set. The losing car will be cast upon the tender mercies of Ebay. If you’ve managed to get this far welcome to my first build thread and my first attempt at using image hosting (edit: or not). I think this one is going to be a bit of a long ride as I get around to installing new bit and pieces every couple of weeks or so. So please join me for a thread of poor decisions, poor grammar, poor spelling and poor driving as we try to answer the perennial RC question: Are Tamiya Hop-Ups worth the cost?

The Brief When I needed a body shell and motor to go on my upcoming Type-SR build, man-maths sidled into my thought process and decided to buy a whole extra car. The logic (and I'm applying somewhat liberal use of that word here) being that I'll have a backup chassis if needed, I can use it in more restrictive classes that the SR may not qualify for and I can use it as a cheap car-park thrasher as the mood takes me. The truth is there isn't much logic at all and I just like building up kits. Pick your explanation and we'll move on... The aim of this build is to spend as little as possible on it, since there is no reason to cannibalise funds from my other car. So I'll be looking for free or very cheap ways to improve it. I'm going to aim to keep it mostly stock so it can show up and run in any TT02 class, it doesn't need to be competitive, it just needs to be durable enough to finish races. One base spec TT-02, £82 from TimeTunnelModels. I allowed the budget to extend to a set of bearings, so they were added on to the order for another £9.20. All shipped and delivered on the next working day so shout out to TTM for speedy service. The Build I'm not going to do a step by step build thread as I'm sure this car has been done to death by now, but I'll post some sporadic observations and notes as I go, to remind myself in future as much as for anyone else's benefit. To D15 or not to D15 So the first decision I made at the beginning was to delete part D15 from the build since it limits steering angle. However, after a bit of advice on another thread I decided that I should reinstall it since the risk of losing a dogbone wasn't worth the risk. Typically, in the intervening hours of making that choice, D15 had completely vanished (I suspect I know who the culprit is, the thread will reveal his identity in time). Luckily I had this left over from my son's TT-02 Type-S build: The Type-S deletes D15 by default, so the left over part makes its way into this build: Free caster I've seen a few mentions of reversing the upper arms to dial in around 10 degrees of caster. I've decided to give this a shot, my local track has a longish straight so the extra stability at speed will be useful. Easy enough to swap back if it induces too much camber. Eliminating slop Installing the front upper arms revealed the first bit of slop in the build. Initially I was stumped, since the left (in this image) arm was free of any play, yet the right had a good 1mm or more of play. I started looking in my spares box for a suitable shim (I have none as it turns out, I need something with 5mm ID to fit the pins on the plastic arms), but the imbalance between the two sides kept nagging at me. Finally I realised it could be down to tolerance in the screws clamping the shock tower and the rear brace. I slackened the screws off and squeezed both parts together as shown before nipping the screws back up: My hunch was right, after this adjustment each arm now has an equal amount of play. They are still going to need shimming, but both sides are now the same which puts some minor OCD to rest for me. Pack of 5mm ID shims ordered for £2.09 which I think fits with my low cost improvement criteria. The rear end went together without any issues, so nothing worth posting for that part of the build. Pit crew Remember that missing D15 part? I have a prime suspect: Not wanting to risk any further losses, I gave him a spare prop shaft to amuse himself with: Shocking Obviously this base kit comes with the standard friction shocks. I knew from the start these were not great, but actually holding them in your hands really reveals just how terrible they are. How Tamiya can bear the shame of including them in this day and age is beyond me. I know this is a beginner car, I know it's built to a price and I know that a lot of TT-02s just end up as shelf-queens anyway, but these are less than toy grade level parts. Even our crew chief is sceptical that these belong on the car: I had every intention of using them, however by luck I have an AliExpress order due in the next week. I pre-emptively added a set of very cheap (£4 IIRC) oil filled shocks to that order to go in my spares, so if they arrive in time they will go straight on instead of the friction parts. At this point the chassis build is paused whilst I wait on a few other cheap parts to arrive, but they should be here soon. Next post will detail the fun of prepping my first ever shell for painting.

**Braking News — Tamiya presented new spare parts at the Nuremberg Toy Fair: All body posts are now available individually without having to buy the B-parts. Owners of TT02 variants will be particularly pleased because they no longer have to buy the extensive B-parts bag just to get 4 simple body posts. ** I wish this dream would come true one day. 🙂

I thought I would share quickly my latest TT-02 iteration. The idea was to have a fully adjustable chassis that uses standard - rather than type S - TT-02 parts. Also I wanted to make sure the original parts would not require complex modifications and that the number of custom parts would be reduced to an absolute minimum. The result is also mechanically "clean" in that there is no unwanted change in caster as the suspension compress. The extra holes on the plate allow adjusting roll center when using type-S shock towers. So here it is! I am quite happy with how it turned out. I can now dial in camber, caster, bump steer and Ackerman.

I've got a TT-02 Type-SR currently held up in customs, which will be getting built up as my main car with a few other nice bits. However in the meantime I managed to pick up a cheap stock TT-02 kit that I wanted to run as a 'B-car' to serve as a backup for me and my son. I'm keen to spend as close to zero on it as possible, but still have it functional for racing. So far it's unbuilt (well, I've done the prop shaft and diffs this evening). Anyone got any no/low cost tweaks to make it race worthy? On my list so far: Bearings (this was an outlay I was willing to make) Steel pinion from the spares box AW grease on the friction shocks for some pseudo-damping 500k in the front diff Collection of shims to dial out some of the play Superglue the stock servo saver / direct mount the servo horn and delete the saver Some part worn Contact 30 tires Delete part D15 to increase steering angle I've heard mention of flipping the arms, but other than for adjusting wheelbase I'm not sure if there are any other benefits? Also seen some people using a secondary brace on the steering to reduce some of the slop which are about £5 on eBay. Any other build secrets that can improve it?

I saw this TT-02 Belt Drive kit on AliEpress. It is inexpensive, interesting or as Spock would call it "fascinating"! Soooooo, i ordered one! I have built five tt-02 cars using tips I have found on this forum which from my first build made them all better than they would have been from just using the manual. I have come up with a few things myself which I would like to share when time allows (like the motor air scoop accepts a 30mm fan and does very well to cool your motor when a fan is used ! Why Tamiya doesn't mention this is beyond me) ...more to come; but back to this belt thangy! It looks to be of fairly good quality and since I am currently building a rally tt-02 and my first TT-02B i will try it in one or the other and report back.

Hello all.I recently converted my tt02 to a rally car and it is super fun.But when i was getting ready to drive today,i notices that one side of my servo wasnt bolted in (but it was before).So i unscrewed my servo/mounts and noticed my screw was missing.I put the one screw i had remaining in both holes of the mounts.. And in one of them there were no threads at all!!! (I have noticed for some time that one side the screw just kept on gurning before but thought it was normal)Keep in mind these are the stock plastic mounts.I have a week go get it ready for some racing/bashing with friends.I can either try to make something myself,or order a tamiya mount.Im using a low profile savox servo.Which one is cheaper and would take less time? Also should the new mounts be aluminium?

I can't assemble it because the spur gear is blocking the diff case from fitting in, it's like part C5 is too long. The pin is fully seated in the gear. I've examined it over and over and it looks 100% correct.

Hello, just wondering...I sort of want to upgrade to a brushless system in my TT02, but its gonna be quite the wad of cash to do so. So instead of doing that, i was wondering what the easiest way to get the lowest FDR possible while being safe for the motor. I currently have a 22t 0.6mod pinion and the high speed gear set. Thanks in advance!

Ok, so Im not sure if I did something wrong or not, but I just got the TT01 turnbuckle set for my TT02. I just took it out for its first run since installing it, and it doesnt quite handle like I want it to. So Im trying to adjust them and either the wrench it comes with is messed up somehow, or my turnbuckles are stripped at the nut. Its a brand new set and I dont know why the wrench wont hold onto the turnbuckle nuts. Any thoughts?

Hello! Im new here to Tamiyaclub and tamiya RC. I just ordered my firct rc kit, a TT02 (A80 Racing Supra). I was just wondering, is there anything I should know and pay attention to when I start to build it? I think I remember seeing some Youtube videos where people used tackle boxes to sort out screws? (Are there really THAT many???) Maybe a dumb question, is it better for me to try to finish in a day or two, or should I spend my time building it? Even if it ends up taking a week or two? Are stock TT02 shocks really as bad as some say? A good set of shocks + oil might cost me around 30-40 dollars (US). Is it worth buying a set? Or is a cheap >$20 set ok too? And I have about 6 spare 2s LiPo batteries from a dud rc truck I got for about $100. Im hoping to be able to use those (I got a lvc too) Im just planning to drive around anywhere I can, really. Just want to make it as fun as possible while keeping it relatively cheap. Not looking to make a bunch of upgrades (though I did get bearings). Thanks in advance for all the answers! And if there is anything else I should know, please feel free to throw it out there!

Has anyone heard of the TT02D Type-S??? I just saw Thercracer do a review of it. Does anyone own one? If so, what do you think of it? From a beginner drifting standpoint? Is it THAT much better than a (mostly) stock tt02 with drift tires? Also, where to find it for sale, in the US?

I have noticed that the tt02 is a highly popular beginners car for lots of people (including myself a beginner) and that there are many questions and directions you can go with building your tt chassis and driving it.I have also noticed that there are threads for many other popular chassis like the m chassis and many buggies.So i thought why not create a thread for people who need help with there tt01 or tt02,or sharing info or just a simple discussion.Anything tt01 or tt02 related is allowed here!

Hello.I have just finished building my tt02 after it just sitting in the garage for 3 years and i have been greeted with a very dissapointing problem.My servo saver is breaking apart after like 1 minute and my car cant drive straight.Any idea why? i put a screw that fit well into it but its still doing this.

I have a tt02 with a superstock rz motor on 2s and running stock wheels.When i drove it for the first time i was impressed.But i took off the wheels and i was greeted with uh.... yeah as you can see below thats possible.So should i use plastic or aluminium hexes?