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Found 7 results

  1. EDIT: I have had a change of heart and updated the project name. I'll think of something later. I want this project to be an escape, not a reminder. Well, anyway, here it is. This is the first of my isolation projects and possibly a long-enough one to keep me busy for the first few months (especially as I'm still working full time and still have to spend time with my family). I first bought this rig back in the mid-00s. I would have been a very expensive treat to myself back then, not just the huge kit but the 4 channel radio also, and I remember being a little disappointed in its general clumsiness once assembled. After some adjustments here and there I eventually converted it to Clod axles and ran a 14.4V setup using a HPI speedo and modified GT-550 motors. It got aftermarket shocks and extended bottom links, and, after forever breaking plastic rod-ends over the most insignificant bumps, got consigned to the loft to stagnate. At some point the Clod axles were scavenged for the Full Metal Jacket project and the rest was thrown in a plastic tub for storage and forgotten about. At the end of 2019 I felt my love of Monster Trucks returning, and 2020 began with me watching Triggerkings videos on Youtube. I knew I couldn't afford to build a full-spec race rig (and nobody races MTs here in the UK anyway), but I could at least do a good tribute. Plans were hatched. Actually, I bought myself an Axial SMT10 Raw Builder's Kit from the store front at Wheelspin Models on 13th March. I thought it would be a good project to throw together while the world was in the grip of the CORVID-19 slowdown. Back then (barely over a week ago) it really did feel like no more than a slowdown. How things change! Well, anyway, by the 16th things were looking different, and I went online to buy a body for my SMT10. That's when I noticed the stock SMT10 actually has a really long wheelbase. I usually make my own custom links to shorten a wheelbase, but I can't do that if I want to keep the shocks on the links, as standard, and as most of the racers use. I found a short wheelbase conversion kit online but it's in the US and not cheap. I decided it was just a bit out of my budget considering the slowdown in the economy and the uncertainty of the remainder of 2020, so the poor SMT10 was shelved. (OK, I could build it stock with my chosen body and shorten it later, but I won't know where to cut the body post holes until I've got the shorter links fitted.) So - little diversion aside - a 1993 JConcepts F250 Crew Cab body was ordered for the TXT-1. As the chassis replicates monster truck designs of the mid-90s era, I figured that was a good shout. (The SMT10, with its full cage, will get a mid-00s body). The F250 was partly chosen for its 12.5" wheelbase, partly for its vintage and partly because it was UK-stocked at the time - although I had to hunt around for one. Super-fast delivery - it was ordered on Monday and on my floor on Tuesday. With the body in hand, it was time to open up the box of bits and see what I needed to get it all back together again.
  2. So I’ve always wanted a shot on the txt. Massive wheels and a lot more scale than a clod etc. There are also many build options so it’s a great platform. Only now are Axial coming up with the MT to match its kind. This is how it started two days ago A wash and a sort in order! Decided to have a go with gold leaf. I think it’s a skill you get better with over time! Happy with the results mind Started on the body, it’s not in too bad shape but it looks tired, but in one peace! Then on to the rods and wheels. Body and wheels came up really well v pleased. . Inventory check need, diff spider, axel top, servo and bearings. As far as I could get before new parts arrive:) Update from this morning. Pulled the front together, need to build the back axel with NIB diff parts and a servo. Meanwhile attention turns to the ESC.. the 14.4v esc wiring from Traxxas EVX is offensive to my eyes :)..
  3. I was lucky to score a fair decent condition TXT-1. As I'm going through disassembly I noticed several screws are definitely worn and rusted and chances are I won't be able to get them out with damages to the plastic parts. Since this is my first MT so I'm quite a newbie when it comes to the Clod/Bullhead/Juggs parts compatibility. Would there be a break down on what I can use/source from other MT? So far I think all the tires and wheels and hub assembly seemed to be the same. The Jugg axle and gearbox might be the same. Am I missing anything else?
  4. Since posting this two days ago http://www.tamiyaclu...showtopic=78760 and this yesterday http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=78777 , I have found more RC models, bodies and parts that I don't need anymore and would be happy to sell. Please see new list below with the additional items since yesterday. Please send me a PM if anything should be of interest or if you're looking for something not found in the lists. I have quite a bit more stuff for sale. Will send photos of all items of interest to you, so you will know the exact condition of what you get before you buy. On request, I'll send you the lists as an Excel-file or a suitable text format. RC Models: RC Bodies: RC Parts (and RC Mini 4WD kits):
  5. After having a reasonable success with fitting the 4274 Ezrun motor in my TXT-1, I've decided to try and improve the fitment by designing and building my own gearbox for it, designed around the 4274 sized motor. I set myself the following design goals: 1. Centre the motor above the drive shaft. 2. Lower the motor to improve the centre of gravity. 3. Allow the fitment of Traxxas Revo UJs with threaded securing pins, as well as standard Tamiya drive shafts. 4. Re-use the existing Tamiya TXT-1 gears 5. get rid of the need to use 1160 sized bearings on the main transmission shaft. 6. Allow the use of a 12tooth to 20tooth pinion. 7. Lower the output shaft to help straighten the UJs This is what I've got so far: This is the main rear plate of the gearbox. It holds 2 idler shafts, and the main transmission shaft. The bearing housing for the main shaft holds 2 1260 bearings. Rear bolts are recessed into the body. Idler shafts are press fit so do not drop out or rotate. Comparison of size with a normal transmission case. Supporting rods for the other main plate are 5mm steel Home made steel components. The hex drive started life as round bar. It will be loctited onto the main shaft with gear locker eventually. Assembly so far. It is interesting to note that the TXT-1 gears have a perfect tooth count for 2 of the idler gears to run on one shaft. Perhaps it was originally the intention for the gears to be fitted in this manner, but some other design requirement resulted in the actual TXT-1 layout that uses 3 idler shafts instead of 2. The next plate will have the motor mount incorporated into it, so that will show the design off better. The motor sticks out in front of the transmission as it does in the king hauler gearbox. The 4274 will hopefully slot between the top links of the suspension. With the idea that I currently have for the motor mount plate and the method for attaching the transmission to the chassis, the motor will sit 20mm lower in the chassis. I have also decided with this project, to build 2 gearboxes, one for myself, and one to sell on.
  6. Thought I'd post this as it might of interest to TXT-1 owners out there (and possibly TXT-02 and Jugg owners too). I recently bought an EzRun 4274 combo from Ebay, to fit either in my TXT-1 or the half track I'm building (In the big rigs forum). I did a trial fitment in the TXT-1 and with the aid of a home made spacer it fits quite well: Before and after, the 2 Trinity chameleon motors for size comparison against the 4274. The 4274 also has an extra 4mm on the diameter: I used a RW racing pinion, and 15tooth for 5mm shaft. It was a bit of a tight fit, but running a 5mm drill bit through the centre removed the slight high spots around the grub screw hole and now it slides on smoothly. It also has the advantage over the pinions on the standard size motors of having wider teeth which match the counter gear width perfectly. Spacer is clearly visible here. It's made from a 5mm thick aluminium plate, and gives perfect separation for fitment of the pinion. It's circular, 40mm diameter, 14mm centre hole, with motor holes 25mm apart. Fits in the chassis quite nicely: Although it is a very close fit to the suspension cantilever. If I'm going to fit it I still need to cut a couple of pieces out of the spacer plate to accommodate the countersunk screw that holds the centre counter gear shaft, and also the bottom mounting screw closest to the motor, but it's a fairly simple fitment to fit what is a motor that is quite larger than normal. The motor is only 2000KV, but the combo is rated for 4S, which would make the performance quite lively, although I would probably only use it with 3S at the most. Still can't decide whether to put it in this or the half track though....
  7. I just picked up the one in the middle - my first Clodbuster, and I have to say that while the Jugg still wins all the sexy, and the TXT wins the crawling, the Clod is a delightfully straightforward "I'm here to crush cars and be awesome" design. No fiddling with torque roll or super-hard leaf spring suspension.
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