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Found 9 results

  1. I was driving my TT-02D R33 Skyline today and it suddenly stopped turning. Turns out the servo hole the screw goes into got stripped and now needs replaced. But I've decided to bite the bullet and rebuild the whole thing but I want aluminum parts and I want mostly all of it aluminium. I have no idea what to get. I know there is a rwd conversion but I heard it's bad for traction. Can anyone please help me.
  2. Recently saved a few £ by making foams for the boys Lunchboxes. Only foams I could find were £9.99 a set and needed 2 sets. That's before tyres and wheels. Got 2 sheets of upholstery foam on eBay for £4 posted. Enough to do two sets of lunchbox wheels on one sheet. Might do the Clod as well but the tyres are a lot harder on that so it doesn't need them as bad. You can cut this with a sharp Stanley or one of those extending snap off blades. I taped the one in the pic but don't tape them now for the car. Cut a strip just over 12inches long by 2inches wide. Foam is 1 inch thick. Stuff it in, I don't tape it, just cut it a bit long and stuff it in. Less tyre wander, stiffer sidewall. Slightly better handling.
  3. I've been building a VW camper van from a match stick kit. Decided the ftx mini chassis would fit almost perfectly for width but I'd have to move the front axle forward. Running in rear wheel drive only at the moment, could reinstall front drive with a longer driveshaft but would like to keep it RWD if possible. Had a look online and can't find an upgraded shaft. Does anyone know where I can get one? Will upload pics in a bit.
  4. Hi, I'm new at the club. I bought about two year ago a Blitzer Stadium (a release maybe). Since then I have modified many things on it. Looking on Internet to find new thing to do on the truck. My fun is to find what is cool on recent RC cars and try to reproduce on mine. I have already: installed front and rear carbon fiber shock tower with homemade aluminium parts upgraded the shocks (aluminium) upgraded suspension arm shafts (basic) removed some plastic of the chassis. Lower now replaced most of the screws ... I have modified many parts. So if you are interested to know the parts that I used to upgrade the blitzer, fell free to comment. Hope you will enjoy my first pictures. I will list soon all the modifications on the truck. Glob356
  5. Hi, I want to buy a new brushed motor for my modified Blitzer Stadium. I wonder how many turns is best for the Blitzer? Tamiya silver can motor is 27T. Do I need a 21T, 23T? Thank you for your advice! Glob356
  6. Hello Tamiya fans! I am upgrading my tamiya TL01 chassis and I have some questions...I want to replace old brushed silver can 540 motor and mechanical speed controller with combo motor...so I chose to replace the brushed motor with this one https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-x-car-brushless-power-system-4000kv-60a.html ...but there is a problem in specification I cant find the dimensions of the position of threaded holes on brushless motor (see picture below)...I also contact the hobbyking store and they are not sure if this motor will proper fits into the mounting holes on chassis...maybe has anyone some experience with installing this motor? I am also woundering about ESC "Running mode"...in specification is written "Forward only or forward with reverse (user programmable mode)" in case of setting "Forward only" what is the purpose of the button reverse on transmitter? ...is use only for dynamic brake? ...is this setting useful for prevent the pinion gears damage? ...I also need some advice about the proper 2S lipo charger...which is enough "smart" to stop charging when the battery is full? ...thanks.
  7. Hi, Looking forward to upgrade my Durga with brushless motor, ESC and Lipo battery. I am looking for speed but not to run the motor too hot either. But fast. I don't know where to start. If anyone can please recommend what brushless motor, ESC and Lipo battery kit that I can just purchase and upgrade. What else do I need to do besides upgrading those 3 components? Again thanks!
  8. Hello. I have a monster beetle in great condition w/ upgrades. It has a rear suspension stabilizer on the gear box, the cool technigold motor, and an aluminum brace that i designed and programmed a cnc machine to mill. It has full ball bearings. I also have the futaba radio, 6 NiCd batteries, and 2 chargers. Included are boxes and manuals for the monster beetle and radio. I have attached some pics. I live in Austin, Texas...Looking for $375 dollars, we split shipping. Thanks for looking! Best to contact me at chris_fabATyahoo.com
  9. Hi, as suggested by Jesse James I open here a Astute guide tread for all Astute fans. I also made a "how to" entry in my showroom. It's a work in progress so please be patient. The Astute is a beautiful 2WD car, very fast on the track but very fragile and it's frustrating how it can break easy if you don't make some work on it to improve strength. I drove it a lot and made many mods so I can share with you my tips. 1) Front end. One of the most fragile part of the car. You absolutely must have a G4 Super Astute front brace if you wanna drive your car for more than some minutes. This part is not an optional, is a must have. Super Astute front brace: You can see the part in the picture. You can also use Madcap front end that is a little bit more strong but non enough without any brace. Madcap has a front brace but needs plastic bathtub chassis to be mounted. You can avoid this problem with a couple of aluminum columns. Madcap front bulkhead: Madcap front brace (G3 part). As you can see it need a Madcap plastic bathtub chassis or... The columns to adapt the Madcap front brace to a FRP or Carbon plate chassis. I made them by myself and must be 25 mm longer. You must drill two more holes in the chassis to accommodate these two columns. Madcap and Astute front bulkheads fit very well but they are not identical. Madcap one is longer on front to accommodate the larger bumper but this is not a problem. Astute mini bumper will fit without problems. The major difference is the front arms offset that is some millimeter back on the Madcap. This is not a big problem again. If you have dampers on ball connectors the problem doesn't exist, your dampers will be a little bit more inclined. If you have dampers on bushing you will need longer bushing on top mount. The length of the car will be shorter obviously if you will use Astute uprights. With Madcap bulkhead you need also Madcap uprights to keep the same wheelbase. The Madcap bulkhead is lighter and doesn't need the 730 bushings or 730 ball bearings. Differences between bulkheads: 2) Front arms: another modification for the Astute is the front arm swap with Madcap ones. Astute and Madcap front arms are almost identical in width and length. The only good reason to swap them is the lack of Astute spares. There are only few differences between the two arms. Damper position is different. Both arms have 3 damper holes but on Madcap they are more inner so Madcap middle hole is Astute inner hole. Another difference is the offset. On the Madcap arms the damper mount is more ahead in front of Astute one to compensate the different arm offset on the bulkhead. The result is that if you mount a Madcap front arm on the Astute bulkhead the dampers will be more inclined ahead in the lower mount and the wheelbase will remain identical. If you mount a Madcap arm on the Madcap bulkhead the dampers will be not inclined but you must use the Madcap Upright also or the wheelbase will be shorter. In fact Astute Uprights have the wheel axle some millimeter back to compensate the different C-Hub offset in the Astute and keep the same wheelbase. Super Astute arms is another thing. Astute upright have the wheel axle back like the shopping carts. This allows to keep the straight direction of the car. After the release of the Astute Tamiya made the Madcap with different bulkhead, front arms and uprights. In the Madcap the traditional Hornet uprights have the wheel axle in the same position of the steering axle. The wheelbase is equal to Astute but the geometries of front upright are different. With the Super Astute Tamiya decided to keep the Astute bulkhead and the Madcap wheel base together. A new design is for Super Astute arms, with the correct offset for the dampers and more inner holes to increase wheel travel and car height. But the SA arm curves back to obtain the same wheelbase than the Madcap. This allows to use normal uprights without wheel axle back. In my opinion the best choice for the Astute is the Super Astute arms that are stronger and keep the normal uprights. Madcap arms are lighter than Astute ones but are softer and flex a lot so there's no vantage to mount them. Differences between arms shape and damper position: Correct position of the arms on their own bulkheads: UPDATE: This is what happen if you use the Astute or the Madcap without any sort of front brace. These parts snap in seconds of use on the track. Also the rear hubs are too fragile.
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