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Found 164 results

  1. I'm having a bit of a crisis, not midlife, that was last week. I recently posted about finding a NOS Grasshopper II Super G in my parents attic, a fully functioning model that was used as a display. For some background, here's the post: My Mid 90's Toys R Us Job is Still Paying My initial idea was to do some light mods, bearings, motor, possibly shock towers. BUT, it's never been used and once it goes, it's no longer NOS. I don't have the space for "Shelf Queens" so I'm considering selling it to get something different or used. But then again there is nostalgia in the story behind it. It's just one of those things where maybe someone else would love to have an NOS one and then I can grab a basher or project. On the flip side, chances that I stumble upon a complete (controller, receiver, servo, msc and battery/charger, manuals) one unless I pay a small fortune. As you can see from the above, I'm not thinking clearly . So looking to you all to confuse me even more. As an incentive, first person with the winning answer will get it* *first person with the winner answer will NOT get it- trying to create incentive for you all to post
  2. Another week, another questionable Nikko purchase. This one was a Nikko 18 wheeler that I picked up for £15. I thought at the very worst it'll make a push along toy for the toddler. A few rattling pieces inside, so knew it was going to be a resto mod with new parts. On the outside it looks great. Somewhat smaller than my road express but perhaps the same scale The inside was less pretty. Some damage and a very complex gearbox which used the same motor to power the 5th wheel and drive. Lots of tiny, noisy gears. I decided to remove all the old electronics and most of the gears. I am left with a diff stuck to the two axle halves. I can't remove the wheels without damaging something so it is all one thing. At the moment the axle can somewhat float around. My plan is to 3D print something to lock the axle in place and then print a motor mount that allows a pinion to engage directly with the diff as a spur gear. It's a 50T 0.6M gear, so an 8T pinion should give me a gear ratio of 6.25. Now this is pretty high but the wheels are small and I'll be running on the flat. I plan to use a brushless motor running 4.8 volts so I shouldn't melt anything. Any thoughts on this? I might be able to find a step gear if needed but I am just trying to keep it simple. For the front I can drop in a servo and steer it using the rack it's got already. 5th wheel will be another micro servo in the gearbox. Those two are easy but not sure about the drive gear.
  3. My family have been having a clear out and came across this, giving its age thought it would be worth investigating what I now have. So have a couple of questions, 1. What do I have? 2. What to do with it, get it running or keep as is? I have more pictures if there helpful tia
  4. Yes another toy grade conversion, or perhaps semi hobby grade conversion. A few weeks ago I picked up an interesting looking buggy on Ebay, a Radio Shack Black Wolf. From a first glance it looked very similar to the Nikko F10 chassis, which has a fair few fans here and is itself very similar to the Grasshopper. The cars are 540 powered, take a 7.2v pack and are fully proportional, so are pretty nice from the off, but can be improved with some tweaking. The car also came with a spare gearbox, body, tires and a few other parts, enough to potentially make two cars using some spares I had. I wanted to make something for my Nephew, so for £30 it seemed like a good deal. I When the car arrived it became apparent that although it was based on the F10 they were not made with the exact same moulds. Nikko and Taiyo produced many cars for Radio Shack and Tandy. Some of the cars are exactly the same, perhaps with a different body or stickers, but others like this one are very close, but not identical. However the Black Wolf and F10 are close enough that I should be able to swap parts from one to another without too much issue. So, on to the build: I started with the gearbox first. The good thing about these cars is that they take modern ball bearings, so I was able to replace all the nylon bushings with proper ball bearings, including inside the gearbox. The car takes 11x5x4 and 10x5x4 bearings, and they really make a difference compared to 30 year old bushings! I then replaced the old motor with a 540 Silver Can - the Tamiya pinions attached to them were identical, so that was a plus too. Looking at the gearbox I noticed some damage. There is a tab that stops the gearbox rotating too far back, either on acceleration or when the car leaves the ground. The shocks on this car are simple springs and work under compression, but simply pop open under tension offering no resistance. This means every time the car jumps or accelerates this tab bangs hard against the back of the chassis. This was clearly a serious design flaw as both tabs were cracked and lifting up, allowing dirt into the gearbox as well as failing to really work. I tried to glue them, but a glued plastic part is rarely as strong, and kept on popping off so I gave up. I then decided to glue again, clamp for ages and then trim off the tab completely You can see here where the tab was on the left hand side of the the pivot. I've tried to hide it, but can only do so much. The main thing is it is sealed. So, this was all fixed, but now when you lift up the car the rear end falls out and the springs pop out. A simple solution involved using an oven hob to get the rear springs hot. These were then pushed into the red cups, partially melting them and making a very strong bond. This means the springs are now attached to both ends, meaning they can work under tension too. Now the rear end is attached to the car, even if you pick it up. Next step, onto the electronics...
  5. Hi all, I would like to get a vintage F1, probably an F101. The goal would be to run it and use foam tires. I would also like the tires to be correct in terms of diameter and width i.e. F104 foam tires wouldn't do. My understanding is that the outside dimensions of tires are the same between an F101/2/3 although the rims and therefore the inside bore inside the tires at the front of the F101 are different. In other words, F103 wheels and tires when assembled together would fit the F101. Having asked the detailed questions above about such rare cars as these, I suppose I should have asked first: are there any members here who might still be running these beauties from the past? 😅 Is it realistic to plan on sourcing foam tires on a regular basis or are we limited to expensive NOS lucky finds? Many thanks in advance.
  6. A couple of days ago I decided to try rallying my M06, some tarmac slides and some light off-roading. Long story short I decided that I'd be better off with a buggy. I went on ebay looking for a used Grasshopper 2 and ended up with two Frogs. Frog A was the first one, this one came with a body, good back tires, and a controller. I didn't realise until later that it was short a dog bone! So I looked up dogbones, the Universal Driveshaft hop up, I decided to use vintage car restoration logic and buy Frog B which has shafts, posts, and a bumper. Frog B was the first to arrive, I must have spent 20 minutes looking it over un amusement, and not in a cynical "this is so bad" way, I was actually quite fascinated. The front suspension actually had halfway decent damping despite the lack of shocks, certainly better than the friction shocks on modern entry level kits. Unfortunately Frog Bs battery was misplaced I guess, but I did get a card for the sellers social media accounts (which I promptly pitched because I dont care). But I couldn't complain, you'll see why.
  7. There's a lot of history to cover with this project, and I may have previously covered some of it already, although I can't find it right now. Essentially, this is the story of how I came into possession of a vintage SRB chassis and parts, and how those parts came together to build a race car. We begin back in 2012, at the Tamiyaclub 10th year anniversary swapmeet and bash, where I had the pleasure of meeting lots of like-minded Tamiya enthusiasts in person for the very first time, not least being Mr. Tamiyaclub himself, @netsmithUK. At the time, I had owned my Buggy Champ Gold Edition for less than a year, and although I loved it, I was too precious with it to really enjoy driving it. In fact at that time, it had only been carefully around the flat at home. I had hoped to pick up a vintage SRB project for a more hands-on approach to SRB ownership, but I expected any donor chassis would be well above my price range. It turns out, I was wrong! Because Netsmith had his own swap table, and was trading all manner of vintage parts at knockdown prices. Spying a bargain, I came away with a vintage chassis, complete with Scorcher roll hoop, complete transmission and front suspension, although it was missing the wheels and tyres, front body post and steering crank and links, radio box and rear cage. I also bagged a set of Proline gold wheels, You-G front tyres, sand paddle rear tyres, and a new rear cage. All for a bargain basement sum - I can't remember exactly what I paid for it all, but it was at the lower end of double figures. Of course, it would be a good few years before I got around to doing anything with the old thing, and the first photo I have is from March 2014, when I collected the parts together for a build in what was then my studio and hobby room.
  8. Finally have new tyres, cleaned hubs and new penguin body (inspired by Toystheyrenot’s Dirtmaster). Decals are mix of MCI reproductions and left overs from the Turbo Scorpion.
  9. This isn't another topic on vintage models vs re-re, more so modern vs old kits. DT-02 vs Hornet, Frog vs Neo Fighter, etc. Is it more fun to build a modern kit? And what about driving a modern Tamiya vs the old designs? I do understand that most modern Tamiyas have more hop-ups, and easily more potential for "good" handling. But I don't understand the kits that require hop-ups just to go straight or be on par with modern RTR models. I absolutely understand why a design from 1983 is going to have its share of problems...even if re-releases of said design should have them ironed out.
  10. Here is my original GH2SG, not 100% certain of the history of this buggy, it came into my possession sometime between 2012 and 2015, the person I got it from was not the original owner. It came with an original Blackfoot (I will do a thread for the Blackfoot in the future) and a mix of Futaba and Acoms equipment. No box, no documentation, just the buggy and some parts. As you can see it was well used in the past, as evidenced by the scratches on the body and missing a-pillars as is common on this buggy. My plans are a little bit restoration, a little bit modification, and to get it running for old times sake. I originally owned a Futaba FX10, a Losi Jr-T (with added LXT hop-up kit), and a Kyosho Viper boat…the only one of those three that seem to have survived in my possession is the Losi (and some small remnants of the others), which along with this GH2SG and the Blackfoot will be running again soon enough. As for this GH2SG, well… the original rear tires are nowhere to be found, it is currently equipped with the original WELL WORN tires from my old FX10, I am awaiting delivery of a set of Tamiya 58517 rear tires from a Supershot/Hotshot as I believe they are the same/similar to what originally came on the SG the front tires are present, but dry rotted and a sidewall has torn on one of them, haven’t been able to find reasonably priced original style rib spike replacements yet, the current tires are good enough for when it is sitting on a shelf, but won’t survive the first outdoor drive, I have some other options to get it rolling for now only the rear yellow shocks remained from original (and they were in a parts box, not installed on the buggy), the front shocks were replaced with orange metallic coloured aluminum bodied shocks before it came into my possession, I have replaced the front and rear shocks with a set of yellow CVAs from a Terra Scorcher/Fire Dragon/Thunder Shot which seem to be the correct length aside from maybe the lower ends. The rears are very close to correct length, maybe only a couple mm too short, the fronts likely need the lower ends replaced…they currently have the short lower ends mounted and are at least 5 or 6 mm too short, I need to source the longer version of the lower ends and try them out. The springs on the back seem to be a little stiffer than what likely came on the SG originally, I might deal with that later. I also don’t think the Tamiya yellow shock oil is light enough to work properly once this thing is actually running, I might have to play with piston choice and/or oil weight to make the suspension work the way it should on the rear it also had what appears to be original super hornet lower shock mounts/brace, I have removed that but kept the pieces in the parts box for now looks to be the original 540 motor with black plastic endbell it is currently equipped with a Tamiya TEU-101BK ESC, which will likely stay in it, setup with Anderson PP15/45 power connectors, good for up to 10 awg and 55 amp, running off an older Onyx 3000 mah 6 cell nimh pack I still have the original MSC, mount, and linkage in the parts box…in fact I have 2 MSC, a brownish tan version and a black version, from pictures I’ve seen I believe the brownish tan was what came with the SG and the black came with the Blackfoot (anybody know for sure?) I have installed the resistor heat shield in the original position just to fill the hole, but the resistor isn’t in it and it obviously has no function beyond looks AM transmitter/receiver replaced with a Turbo Racing 91085G-VT 2.4 GHz radio and 4 channel RX41 receiver (hard to beat the $40 CAD price to get this buggy running again), I have kept the AM equipment but I am unsure of it’s condition as it is missing battery packs and can’t be tested old school Futaba servo is still in it for now Next steps will be tear it down, thorough cleaning, reassemble, and run it, install bearings throughout, small bits and pieces here and there, like correct size/length hardware, body pins, etc. I will likely install a 3d printed rear pivot brace to allow the rear suspension to work a little better Considering the Ampro double wishbone front suspension, if I go this route I will retain all the original parts in case there is ever a desire to return to original I have a plan to swap to modern 2.2 2wd buggy wheels and tires front and rear while also maintaining some of that SG look, this should allow me to run it without destroying the original style tires that seem to be more rare/harder to get these days…more on the 2.2 buggy wheels to follow in a future post in this thread I will run the original 540 silver can for now, but might replace it with a modern Sport Tuned I might switch to deans connectors and 2200 mah 2s lipo in a 3d printed stick pack adapter in the future…if I do this, I will also add a lipo alarm to keep an eye on voltage cutoff level
  11. Rare unassembled Tamiya 1/12 Lamborghini Countach LP500s competition special for sale. NIB, all bags are closed. This one is the competition special edition with larger 540 motor for a 1/12 scale model. Released in 1978. A true rarity for the passionate collector. Please do not hesitate to contact me for additional questions or more pictures. I'm happy to help! Price: 1 300 euros + delivery
  12. Hi, I'm new at the club. I bought about two year ago a Blitzer Stadium (a release maybe). Since then I have modified many things on it. Looking on Internet to find new thing to do on the truck. My fun is to find what is cool on recent RC cars and try to reproduce on mine. I have already: installed front and rear carbon fiber shock tower with homemade aluminium parts upgraded the shocks (aluminium) upgraded suspension arm shafts (basic) removed some plastic of the chassis. Lower now replaced most of the screws ... I have modified many parts. So if you are interested to know the parts that I used to upgrade the blitzer, fell free to comment. Hope you will enjoy my first pictures. I will list soon all the modifications on the truck. Glob356
  13. Thanks to a bundle deal I made I've ended up with an original Top Cat, originally I wanted to run it but it seems that some of the re-release parts have been canned for some reason. It mostly just needs shocks, electronics, and a fresh set of tires. Right now I have some old Rustler shocks on the back temporarily (yea I know, heresy!). My plan is to run it lightly with a brushed 540 motor in it and replace the missing/aged parts, but I'd like to know if these have any value on the second hand market. I've only seen a few of the re-releases for sale but no originals.
  14. Vintage Tamiya Martini Alfa Romeo 155 V6 TI 4WD Nr. 5818 - for sale on eBay. Last of my models .Bought & built ca. 1997/8 and never run in anger. Sold in 2014 to a non-payer, so it stayed with me, but now it has to go. The ad is in German, but basically says: Immaculate. Never run. Displayed for last 25 years or so. Original box, spare decals, screws, cogs etc., instruction leaflet and original documents in excellent condition, original 3-step fwd/rev speed control unused - fitted with C.P.R. P-80F and Servo, Tamiya 1400NP Racing Pack 7,2v 1400mAh NiCd (not charged for donkey's years - has about 2volts residual charge. Any questions - just ask. Thanks for looking and I hope this finds a new home with someone who will cherish it as much as I have for so long!
  15. I am not sure what's quite wrong with me. I sold off my hobby grade converted Taiyo here, and now I have picked up another. This is the Taiyo off-road Tiger, also known as the Taiyo Giant Roader. It's got larger wheels than the classic Yellow/Blue Taiyo 4x4 but is otherwise very similar. This one was branded XGO by Tandy from 1995. Zero suspension but has large tires and the rear and forward wheels share the same differential right and left with two parallel prop shafts, making for a surprisingly capable off road car, especially with the (very) low gear selected. With a brushless this will be very fast, but will be prone to roll over so dirt and grass only. The plan here is quite simple. I am going to keep the battery bays so it can take 4 x C batteries, but I will add a connector to allow the option of the 2C Li-ion battery as well into the ESC. I will go brushless again with a12T 7200 KV ezrun. If that proves too hot I will move the motor to something else, and go for the 18T version. I will have a look at the steering, I think I might be able to get ball studs and turnbuckles to connect the steering over the original system, but we will see. The plan for the body is simple; remove the wing and reduce the rear roll bar height, paint roll bar and wheels white, take off all the stickers and dress it up like a clodbuster. If you compare if to the GF01 you can see they are a similar size. What I want to do is find a way of attaching the body to the chassis via posts, so I can clip the body into the Taiyo, but also have the body as an option for the GF01 to make a 4x4 1/14 clod. You can see the suprisingly good clearance with 105 mm tires. Now with a baby in the house this is really a build that might take a long time, bit I find it's nice to have a project to look forward too, even if I won't be able to make much headway. A little while ago @GeeWings asked if there was any consensus on removing stickers, I can't find the thread, was there an answer? 😀 I know compared to a hopped up TRF this isn't the sexiest build, but hopefully these have inspired builders on a budget and those interested in smaller scales.
  16. I need help identifying this vintage 1/8 Stock Car chassis please, I intend to restore it so I’d like to know what it’s supposed to look like. Due to the precision with which it is made, the chassis finish and the steering setup I’m convinced it’s commercially made (not the radio box obv), I’ve searched the usual suspects Mardave, Puma, Ke’Jon & Yu’Can but not found anything with nerf bars anything like that shape. I can’t think of any other manufacturers to look at so any relevant 1970s companies’ names would also be useful. Thanks, MZ. @Ascona1 @Grastens @Abarth1
  17. Hi everyone, I am new here and not really clued up about the modelling scene. A relative of mine left me some Tamiya formula 1 kits a few years back. They are in their boxes which are opened but inside they are not constructed, complete and in their original plastic packaging with instructions, decals and advertising.. I have attached links for photos of the boxes and was wondering how rare these kits are and their current values? I would also like to know if it is worth selling them now or should i hold on to them as an investment for the future? As i said i am not really into the modelling scene but any answers and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  18. Hi all! I’m new here and inherited this old SRB Tamiya from my uncle maybe 12 or so years ago. And it’s been sitting in the shed ever since. Got the itch to break it back out and get it running! Any tips/info/help would be much appreciated!
  19. Dear all, i'm restoring an original Bigwig and I have to replace a bent dogbone. Seems pretty rare to find so I'm guessing if somebody has one to sell me. Looking at some good topics it seems they are the same dogbones of the original Boomerang... I need the original one as I'm mounting all stock items. Thanks!
  20. I finally found the Blitzer in stock, wanted one for so long. I never liked the orange wheels and thought this little bug deserves some attention. This will be not box art and hoping this will look like in my vision when done. What I am trying to do is… -try and guess! This will have 2.2” narrow front wheels and 2.2/3” wide thread rears. Anyway, lets start the build. The kit includes the new 04 esc, but I will use the TBLE 02. Like allways, Tamiya manual is super easy to follow. I did add ball bearings ( Had extra set of Carson DT-02 bearings laying around) Blitzer uses the same bearing size. Gearbox all ready. Notice the Sport Tuned motor.(it may be changed to ~10.5t brushless later)
  21. I came across some old Tamiya slot cars and a track and need assistance with finding out some more information and what their value might be. I have 3 racers fitted with a. FT-16D Mabuchi racing motor which there is also a container with a ton of spare parts I.e - wheels etc. 3 custom slot racers which all scale to 1/24 they are the following: Lotus-30 light weight die-casting chassis Lora T-70 spring suspention chassis The 3rd one is manufactured by Hasegawa and is a Ferrari DINO-166P The track has a figure 8 one the lid of a blue box and is labeled Tamiya circuit slot racing set
  22. For sale is a set of 90’s moosgummi tirea from the manufacturer GRP model EVI04E 40 shore, 12mm hex, very little use, vintage. With package. 30€ with shipping. open for offers. Will swap for M chassis Slicks 60D.
  23. Hello to everybody, Happy New year and best wishes in RC. Link of my topic : TAMIYA Humvee M1025 : French Hummer as Crawler I'm Charles from North of France, (near Belgium border). I don't know if i need to make a presentation but i will explain here why I'm here. I'm from 1986, and around 10/11 years old. At Christmas i will ask to santa some Lego Technic big set, and my Brother (8 years older than me), as Tamiya Fan explain to me RC is more Fun. I've listen him, and he found my first model : a Dyna Storm from a windows showase of a closing rc local shop. Already mount with a motor on it. And all start for me about RC ! With years, i've choose to spend some Birthday and Christmas into it. Next model was a KIT Subaru Impreza 97' with the TA03F , so great stuff to mount a model. And i follow with some other "iconic" model : Juggernaut, never heard about the fragile gear ( no internet community ). After a intership as a young dealer assistant into another Rc Shop,i work on holidays and saturdays. I spend lot of money & time in my TA04 Pro chassis, with lot of Hop Up, and good electronic product as Novak and Futaba. I make some race in local club as amateur. That so great to run these model on carpet. Good memories when at the end my model was well setup as easy to drive. Some other model come to my collection, I've bought ( between 2000-2005 ) a 2nd hand Dyna Blaster, to take some spare parts for my Dyna Storm. Finally i discover few parts are common. And after, that i've bought a Dyna Storm NIB, mount it and make it run with caution. ( before crazy price ) After that, i grow up and i spend less time in RC, to continue bigger on 1:1 scale car and need more time to high school and my engineer university (Electricity). Keep all my model at my family house. Now after some ( lot of ) years, my nephew "Ed" have recevied a Tamiya RC Model : Racing Fighter. ( son of my Brother ) and his cousin "Amb." recevied for communion a Neo Fighter. Me and my brother don't resist to buy again 20 years after a Kit ( 2 others Racing Fighter ) to plan to run with children with same models. In parallele I am in the process of rebuild / replace parts and clean. The Clean Dyna Storm became a Shelf queen and my first Dyna Storm still a Runner. I've upgrade my Juggernaut with 2000 gears and bearing with Amb ( he love to mount/dismount model) Bought in may 2020 a TRF414M (my teenager dream) for my Birthday, and planned to run. And now i've start to make on the Dyna Blaster a restoration that he deserved. Thanks to read this presentation. Sincerly yours Charles
  24. The Kyosho Icarus is a 2WD entry-level RC car from the year 1985/1986. It has the same chassis as the Pegasus, Cosmo and Cox Bandido. The original motor is the 360ST, size 550, 22 turns - 22,000 rpm and it has independent suspension on four wheels with oil dampers. This buggy is the version that Graupner distributed in Germany. I bought it disassembled and there were parts that were not from this car: I have the original rims and the new front tires; I don't have the rear tires. There were other front rims and rear rims on the Tamiya Hornet. The chassis was strongly marked by scratches on the bottom but no broken parts. The shock absorbers were new as if they had changed. The most important thing was to have all the transmission parts because they are expensive, hard to find and there are no alternatives. I disassemble the gearbox because there is a strange noise. The gearbox is fine and had a loose bushing. It is cleaned and oiled. The motor pinion has 18 teeth and a 0.8M module. The gearbox has a ratio 18/52 * 18/52 ---> 8.35: 1 The wheel axle is worn in the rolling area. This also occurs in the Cosmo and the Pegasus. TThe previous owner did not do the maintenance and there was no grease in the bushings. It is better to use 10x6 mm flanged ball bearings A new wheel axle is quite expensive and difficult to obtain; I placed a needle roller bearing 10x6 mm and 10 mm wide. The transmission parts have strange measures and shapes and are not compatible with other spare parts: The LeMans 360ST motor has interchangeable brushes but cannot be opened. I put the very fine sandpaper in a screwdriver and put it in the hole of the brushes to polish the collector. I use a drill to turn the rotor. Video: https://youtu.be/sMPhT_h9Wl8 Complete transmission test and measure the motor speed (sound level meter): https://youtu.be/LEozlwM9lzs The chassis is clean and the transmission mounted. The battery is placed by opening a cover under the car The double wishbone front suspension is made up of flexible plastic arms: there is no axle. Suspension clearance is repaired with an o-ring. I made two polyethylene holders for the servo. I did not have the original holders. I have new chrome rims and a rear wheel adapter; I also have new front tires. I mount 4x8x3 bearings in the front wheels. The rear rims are 1.55" size and I can choose between the Tamiya Hornet or Marui tires that I have. I paint the white letters on the tires. I also mounted the ESC and the receiver in the car. The Icarus buggy looks like this: In action (video): https://youtu.be/PN9w7e1kkTs Translated from: https://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/03/restauracion-reparacion-de-kyosho-icarus.html (sorry for the translation errors) https://classicrccars.wordpress.com/2021/01/15/kyosho-icarus-restoration/
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