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Found 13 results

  1. Bit of an intro: 13 years ago I begged my parents for an RC car for my birthday. My dream car was E-Maxx & E-Zilla after I spent countless hours on RC forums. There was just something about Tamiya though, and after stumbling on rcdaggerweb I decided on the Double Blaze (price was also 1/3 of the other 2 lol). I was happy for a while, then the body mounts, ball connectors broke and the 11 year old me had no idea how to repair/replace those. Ordering parts online was not possible at the time for me and so in the storage it went. At some point I managed to get some alloy arms, knuckles & c-hubs but the car continued collecting dust. Last month I was cleaning my house and was not sure what to do with the car, then I discovered tamiyaclub and long story short I went all out and splurged a bunch on the car with the target of making it run as well as an RTR Stampede. I will be posting lots of pics as I usually enjoy these type of threads the most. Will also note cost estimations for each (is this healthy?) Before the build: Cracked decals & poorly cut body Not sure if dust or insect eggs 2 Broken long ball connectors inside the knuckle, so I got 5 new ones from Tony (free shipping to SEA!!) Build Part 1: Replaced cheap no-name brushed ESC with Quicrun 860, FM radio with RC4GS, got a new NiMh 3000mah pack, CNC'ed shock towers (designed after GPM), ebay special 100mm shocks, shock oil as these did not come pre-filled, PowerHD 6001MG servo, 2 silver can 550's (unsure of specs), new wheels & 15mm hex extenders (not advised as seen later). Also fitted metal bearings throughout. Total cost so far about $215. All electronics, shocks & extended towers put together New wheels compared to stock Was too excited to see the car run so I quickly concocted something for body mounts using chopsticks, zip ties and earphones plugs (???) This part 1 was about 3 weeks ago and since then a few things have been added or were purchased for further mods. So far I wouldn't consider most of these to be actual upgrades - alloy parts are mostly for bling, wheels & hex extenders turned out to be disastrous for wheel axles, chopsticks are chopsticks, 550 motors are torquey but heavy & slow (also suspect they have advanced timing, front motor heats up less than rear one). ESC & shock towers are the only upgrades I think, and radio kind of goes without saying (ESC wouldn't auto-calibrate with old FM Futabas..) Thanks for reading! I have a few questions as well, but will post along with part 2 of the build (already completed) EDIT: Wow these pictures are huge! How does one resize them? I used imgur BBcode to link these
  2. Hi, I am currently looking for a custom alloy / carbon chassis for the WR01/WT01 Chassis. I have had one before which I regrettably SOLD with my Wild Dagger Project (I know silly thing to do) Does anyone have one for sale? Or know someone who makes them? Or possibly have a Template to build one myself they could share? (Picture of my old WR01 Project) Many Thanks S
  3. Hi All, So as I mentioned in my Grasshopper thread, I have 2 others to put right also. This being one of them. I got this as a kit one Christmas I believe when I was 12 or 13. I spent all Christmas day building it and also boxing day night (as we travelled back to where we originally come from to celebrate xmas time with the rest of the family) much to my mums disgust as I didn't bother with any other xmas presents, I just wanted to build my kit My dad liked it and if it wasn't for him, mum wanted me to leave the part finished kit at home, that upset me deeply, Luckily Dad was on my side (sadly passed away Feb 2013, I was only 24) so this has like the Grasshopper an massive emotional price tag associated with it. This one more so as when we were away I finished the kit and I wanted to paint the shell, Dad took me all over the city to find somewhere that sold Tamiya Paint, I know it's not the right colour as it should be a metallic blue if you go off the box pictures etc but it's the right colour for me. Here she is: I upgraded the motors and added an ESC unit (at the time they were still not mainstream like they are today and especially one that controlled 2 motors) I don't know what it was but it ran very hot and wouldn't allow the motors to run at full speed, I put the biggest fuse I could find in and it still wasn't any faster than the stock motors with the mechanical controller. So I cut a fuse up and soldered thick copper wire to each of the fuse blades and put it in the esc and to allow for better cooling, I cut this horrendous hole in the bed of the truck (my biggest regret with this truck)...alas it didn't help as I ran the thing for a few minutes and it ran like lightening, was mental fast, way too fast to be honest andd....the ESC caught fire Sorry about the dirty look of the black there, I used baby wipes to get all the thick dust off it. As you can see various bits missing, as I was fudging around with it, that ESC is from the Grasshopper controlling 1 motor, as I lent the other motor to a friend and never got it back.. I had 2 Team Orion Orbital 2 Mach-Mod, the hobby shop sold me a 15tx3 for the back and a 17tx3 for the front, said it'd behave more like a rearwheel drive... I believe now though that was tosh as don't these need to be 0 timed or something? If somebody could teach me about that or atleast give me an insight, I'd be most grateful. And this is how it's sitting really, as the back isn't screwed in at all. I do have everything to put this back to complete stock bar the white resistor block, I'm just bummed about the hole in the body, I think I'm going to perhaps upgrade this to use 2 decent motors and an ESC so that I can use this.. What would you recommend? Could I fix the body or do I have to live with that hole now? As I cannot find a new shell for this anywhere, although I may just grab a generic shell to use to save the memory of this one?
  4. Misses is out, so Tooltime. Always dissatisfied how wobbly the servo is mounted in the WT01/WR01/WR02 chassis. The new DT03 and MF01x chassis however have these nice sturdy mounts. So down to the basement and hack away at the chassis some platicard and a bit of POM. To get this to fit You have to cut away one bit and for more stability add a spacer Which would come out a bit like this This is the first prototype, should be possible to have it printed at shapeway or maybe milled from alloy. Screws for the servo With some spacers makes the height variable Fitted into the chassis Leftside Rightside If I get to it I will make a sketch with some measurements.
  5. Hi all. Ive acquired a good WT-01 chassis. The only things its missing is a battery retainer (E1 part) and a shell. If you have an E1 part and/or any of the following shells knocking about that you no longer need, please let me know: Bush Devil Black foot 3 Amarock Mudblaster 2 Wild Dagger Double Blaze Mighty Bull Shell condition doesn't matter too much as it's for a basher. Thanks in advance. Mark
  6. Last week I ordered my second WT-01 monster truck. I already have a Tamiya Blackfoot III full alloy conversion but now I want a fast brushless truck, so I buy a Bush Devil II kit. An unboxing and tuning parts video: First act was opening the gear box and changing the bearings. I used bearings without rubber, for softer running. The diff was already filled with grease. Next step was building the shocks. Team C but labeld with Ansmann. 93mm shocks for rear and 85mm for front. They are very good finished, looks awesome. The sorings are very soft. After that I build the rear axle and implement a wheel spacer, because my beadlock rims have only +6mm offset, but I need 10-11mm like the stock rims. I see in TT-01 community Super Blackfoot axles, they are 5-7mm longer. Perfect! But there was a new problem: how to fill the space between hex and ball bearing. I tried this: - rubber o-rings -> pressing to strong on the bearings and expensive - washer -> too big - special small rc washer -> too expensive ...think...think...think....I got it! Alloy tube from hardware store -> cheap, exactly 5mm inner width, unbreakable and easy to rebuild, if lost. I changed every tapped screw by M3 screws and small tubs. So suspension is very soft and clean and more stable than stock screws. I found two alloy hex adapters, installed only on rear axle. Building rear axle is same like front. C-Hubs I using are for TL-01 but fits also perfect on WT-01. Made of delrin and ball beared! The bearings are filled with rubber compared with bearings in gear box. The rubbers protect against dirt. For front shocks I need to change the piston rod from 51mm to 41mm. Otherwise the shocks would be too long. The chassis was very easy to build, only tapped screws. But for servo I have used alloy mounts from Tamiya with some spacers. Works good, but I hope the mounts don't broke again, like on my Blackfoot. Toward Pro servo from asia, 15kg alloy gear. Kimbrough servo saver, stable and short, it don't touch the chassis. No big deal, after that chassis looks like this: Rims are made by gmade, 2.2'' beadlocks, looks awesome and mustn't be clued. The have nearly same size like stock but bit bigger and No 1 grip! So the "final" chassis looks like this: Next step brushless kit and searching for a nice looking body shell. Bye for now!
  7. Looking for a new in packet tamiya wild dagger sticker set if you have 1 please let me know cheers guys.
  8. hi im looking for a new tamiya wild dagger sticker set. if anyone has one please let me know or drop me a message. thanks
  9. Lots of WT-01 parts for sale. Multiple parts of each except gearboxes (None!). Most of the offered WT-01 parts are from new unused XB-models. Accordingly, they have ben assembled once by Tamiya Philippine plant workers. The models have however never been run and the parts are as such unused. Send me a PM if interested. Need to get rid of surplus parts, so the prices for WT-01 parts are very reasonable! (PS: I know the 4WD versions aren't really officially named WT-01 by Tamiya, but as Tamiya just refer to them "Wild Dagger Chassis" and "Twin Detonator Chassis", I chose to refer to them all as WT-01)
  10. HI Guys, Firstly appologies this is going over a couple of posts but have a few piccies... (picks are small link will take you to larger images) I questioned you loads a couple of years ago when I started modding my Double Blaze/ Twin Detonator/ Wild Dagger that I purchased cheap second hand... https://www.dropbox.com/s/2zdqiv1sx0d5s26/DSCF0921.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2520bxva4audmp2/DSCF0924.JPG?dl=0 All I can say is thank you guys for all your advise and help. As you can see it wasnt in bad shape but i wanted to upgrade... so I started playing with the chassis first... https://www.dropbox.com/s/c46pnxb9hr2xv70/DSCF0940.JPG?dl=0 The above was an mdf mock up to check how the new chassis fit and see what alterations needed to be done, as you can see I increased the wheel base a little...
  11. After two weeks of surfing the net and the forums I have decided on a first project and probably quite an adventurous one. My last RC car was back around 1980 and was an XR311. I spent more time putting it back together with my Dad than actually driving it. Every week we would drive the 30 minutes to the model shop to buy new torsion bars and other parts that broke. I seem to remember I went through a lot of wheels and gears as well. With my dad we made a new guard for the underside and we even put nails through the tyres and fixed them inside with fibreglass. The body eventually gave up when it was more glue and repairs than plastic and we put a cheap plastic body on it. That was 30 years ago. Almost by accident I came across some RC stuff on the net and looked up the old XR311. I was tempted to buy one to build with my son (aged 8) but then I remembered all the things I broke so easily and I was a couple of years older than him. So I looked at other models. It had to be 4WD and fun to take apart and modify. I settled on the Wild Dagger. The plan being to get two. One standard for my son to use and one for me to modify. As I found out more and saw work by other people my plans grew a little. The Wild Willy work by IBIFTKH is fantastic and got me thinking about a Willy XR311 built on a Wild Dagger. Then I saw the following two cars and decided to have a go. So I have no experience but I'm sure I will enjoy this journey. I got to work on eBay which is something I have experience of and found a car for my son and a rolling chassis for me. My car arrived at work on Saturday and I opened it up today. It looks to be hardly used. I'm waiting for batteries, radio gear and a load of parts to arrive later this week. One thing I had forgotten was that there is no ESC. I'm not going to change the motors now but maybe later. Can anyone recommend a good one for me?
  12. So, my chosen winter project is the Twin detonator, thanks to some great advice and information from you guys on this forum. Again, thank you. So I decided to paint it a Tamiya racing green, sanded the chrome bits and painted them bronze, along with the wheels. I had some side view mirrors laying around and mounted them. I modified the roof light buckets to fit some white LED's and covered them up with some lenses from an Integy lighting kit. Rigged up 2 Venom 8.4 batteries to a Traxxas waterproof dual motor/battery esc, powering 2 Traxxas 550 12T motors, and steered by a Traxxas water proof high torque servo. And it's fully ball raced, including the gear boxes. All of the aluminum control arms and hubs are awaiting installation, just waiting on the shocks to come in. Tires and wheels are next, and would love to see some pics/ideas.. Also would love to find out who makes a dual battery chassis for it. Maybe someone here could help Anyway, enough chat..here's the pics..
  13. Anyone got any spair part number MA7 5mm ball connectors (long) 9805825 ? I'am looking for 2 if anyone can help
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