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Found 11 results

  1. The the gap between body and chassis is too big. You need to cut this wall. Swap the front/back racks of GF-01 Done the wall cutting. The battery lid will become obstacle of Willy's feet. Cut the white line part. And this white line area. 3 holes lower. You need to use short battery. Also use low height servo. Compare with WR-02(right side). The GF-01 with smaller gap and sexy waist makes it sporty. Painting. Change WR-02 tires (4 rear tires.) and the job is done.
  2. Any commercially available sealed gear diffs for WR02? Any that will fit, with or without modification? Anyone try sealing a stock one with gasket sealer or anything? (I started a couple of these as an experiment, project interrupted- will share results) How about a real spool? (not locked) Thanks in advance
  3. all I have to say about this is that we had loads of fun...
  4. With no drives left for them, my Willys are now eligible to transfer out to another car owner who can give them seat time. In other words, I have two Willy torso figures for sale. They are both painted and include a steering wheel each. The green-helmeted figure has the hole in his arm for a screw filled in, whereas the blue-helmeted one still has the hole in his arm. I am looking for $45 CAD (includes shipping) for the pair, or $25 CAD (includes shipping) individually. This figure is open to negotiation, especially where a separate shipping quote is requested - meaning I will listen to offers. Both figures are based in Canada. PayPal is on hand and preferred. Pictures are available for assessing condition - both were in lightly-used runner vehicles: As always, I am happy to answer any questions via PM. Thanks for reading! Edit: Note that I will be absent from May 11th - 28th, so communications will be sparse during that time, and shipments delayed until the 29th.
  5. This started out as a wheel thing. Then it evolved. So... I'm going to take a shot at detailing my first custom build. I absolutely love the old Wild Willy model - so I decided to restore an M38, and add some custom touches along the way. Last year I picked up an M38 in fair shape at auction. It was missing a few parts, but the body was in good shape and the chassis seemed OK in the eBay pics. Willy himself looked to have had an unfortunate meeting with an axe-murderer... I took the rig completely apart and thoroughly cleaned everything. I didn't take any pictures of that process - other than to document the parts it looks like Willy shot holes in... I didn't know about those until dismantle time... Must've been one heck of a ride... I patched the holes with Milliput, sanded them smooth and painted them with gloss black. Then I reassembled the rig completely - replacing stripped or broken hardware where needed - and I was pretty happy with the results. ... Now, for the wheel part. I love the size, and look of the classic WW1 tires. Unfortunately, I don't have many of those, and - as you know - replacements get pretty pricey when they pop up on eBay. So, I started looking for a tire that was close in size to the original Willy rubber. My plan was to custom design some rims so I could run the modern tires. Something 1.9 was the goal so I would have the option of different rubber in the future. They're not an exact match to the Willy tires, but I found some Gmade MT1902s that I thought might work, so I ordered a set. Willy did the comparison to the originals... They were close enough for what I wanted to accomplish. For my first stab at this, I designed a 3-piece wheel just like the original: a front, a back, and an inner-ring to hold the tire in place. I put things together in FreeCAD. I sent my designs off to Shapeways. I only did one wheel at a time to start, because I wasn't sure how things would turn out. Next up - getting, painting, testing, and refining wheels. Then, the other mods start coming together...
  6. Wheelies and fire go together in my mind. Is that wrong? I recently created a flame-pipe mod for my original Wild Willy GigaM38 build (here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=77628&page=4) ... and I had a blast running it until I wiped out pretty hard and trashed some vintage parts. I first got the idea from my son's Razor scooter that has a brake with embedded flint made to throw sparks. Neat effect. So, I picked up some little flint tips like you'd use to light a propane torch. You can buy them in 5 packs and they have a threaded end. After my M38 wipe-out, I thought it might be more cost-effective to make a Flame Pipe mod for the newer WW2 chassis. This way I can run the spark-thrower harder on concrete without worry about crashing the vintage rig. I designed a new wheelie bar in FreeCAD to mount the tips and the prototype came in from Shapeways today. I have small tweak or two I'd like to make, but I'm pretty happy with the prototype: Next to the stock wheelie bar for comparison. The prototype is printed in "polished metallic plastic" and will get painted black. Screw mounts through the opposite side and catches the spark tips. Different angle... Back mounting-flange detail. I installed the tips with a small 2.5MM X 22 screw. The new wheelie bar mounted up to the back of the rig just right. Let's go make some sparks! Light show time! As always, my video work could use some help. I shot the maiden run with my iPhone in the dark. Please enjoy the pyrotechnics... Go Willy, Go!
  7. I've had a Wild Willy since I was a kid about 11 years old, and I recently brought it out of storage to fix it up. So then I'm looking for parts and restoration tips, and I discover an entire community of people with similar projects! I thought I'd join you guys and share a picture... I learned from this board that I've got the short wheelbase version. As you can see the tires are in awful shape and the wheels need a good cleaning. The rear tires I'm trying are the closest 1.9 tire my local hobby shop carried but it's not a great fit on the rims and doesn't look so hot either. I hope I can source some authentic replacements. The good news is the body is in excellent shape, with no cracks or missing bits. (The only reason it looks so good is that I broke the original body so badly my dad bought me a new one to replace it. Thanks Dad! I still have the first body too, with no grill and a one-armed driver and lots of glue holding it together...) So far I've cleaned out the gearbox and differential, putting in bearings where it takes them. It runs great with the original electronics, a Kraft KP2K radio. There is some surface rust on the front bumper springs and body mounts. The rear wheelie springs were worn almost to the point of breaking, so the weird colored plastic circles you can kind of see are some plastic covers that are made to snap on your keys to identify them - I'm using them to protect the last pits of metal and it doesn't interfere with the wheelie ability!
  8. we had a blast at a new location
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