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Found 3 results

  1. Something I've have in mind for an absolute age but only just got around to starting - my take on a pro-mod WT-01 monster truck. The story begins way back in my early return to RC, the best part of 15 years ago, when I added a second-hand Blackfoot Extreme to my small but growing collection. It came completely stock but was missing the original Tamiya hardbody and was wearing a pre-painted Cross Tiger shell instead. I ran it as it was for a while, but I'd always planned on some upgrades. I was new to the hop-up world and what followed was a mish-mash of unmatched parts that turned the original BFX into something overweight, overdamped and overpowered. Unable to get the 14.4v 550s to play nicely with the Ho Bao monster wheels and axle wideners, I broke it up for parts and sold most of it on, promising myself that one day I would make something better. For a long time other projects took priority, but in November I went to my long-ignored monster truck parts bin and pulled out all the bits I thought I'd need to build another WT-01. Unfortunately I had only a fraction of what I needed, and what I had was badly worn, cracked in places and broken in others, so I figured the cheapest option was to start from scratch with a whole new kit. I found an NIB Mud Blaster II on ebay for under book price, and ordered a JConcepts F250 racerback body, on the basis that this was designed for the Clod wheelbase (10.5") and might look a little neater than the short Brat body over the WT-01's long stride. I already had a spare transmission with full bearings and a cracked case, an NIP case in which to put it all, and some lightly used dogbones and drive parts, plus enough new bearings to refit the new rear transmission and all the corners. As a matter of fact even the F250 is too long for the WT-01. I briefly considered making some staggered suspension arms on the 3D printer to shorten the wheelbase, but a recent post from top builder @IBIFTKH persuaded me to take the plunge and make some custom chassis plates. So - what you see here - and this really is just a teaser of what's to come - is my own take on the WT-01 shorty. The chassis plates are made of 0.5mm plasticard as a prototype / proof of concept / overall size check. If asked I will say that I chose 0.5mm because it's easy to shape and can be cut with scissors as well as craft knife for a very quick build, but the truth is that I had lots of it lying around but I didn't have anything meatier. I took an old cracked chassis plate and cut off all the protruding parts on the back so I could draw around it and mark all the holes. I kept the body post mounts in the stock location because I'd already cut the holes in the body. Then I measured that I'd need to shorten the chassis by 12mm at each end. The rear was easy - I marked the stock transmission holes, then moved them all forwards by 12mm. The front end was a different matter. I hadn't noticed until @Saito2 mentioned in the Cars You Once Enjoyed thread that the front of a WT-01 has no kick-up. The WR-01 has around 8 degrees in the dummy front suspension mount, but Tamiya didn't bother to make an alternative transmission housing or an asymmetrical chassis plate, so the 4wd version has that compromised front suspension geometry. So, rather than just bringing the front holes back by 12mm, I measured back by 12mm at the second-forwardmost of the transmission mounts, then angled the entire transmission back by 8 degrees. As you'll see from the photos this doesn't actually cost and ground clearance - it makes the centre of the truck lower but no lower than the centre of the diff housing. It would be an issue if I was building a crawler, but this truck will spend the majority of its runtime rooster tailing on the gravel lanes on the Imber Range or tearing up the astro at Robin Hood Raceway, so that extra clearance isn't needed. So - here's some rough teaser shots of the new chassis plates and the body in place.
  2. Last week I ordered my second WT-01 monster truck. I already have a Tamiya Blackfoot III full alloy conversion but now I want a fast brushless truck, so I buy a Bush Devil II kit. An unboxing and tuning parts video: First act was opening the gear box and changing the bearings. I used bearings without rubber, for softer running. The diff was already filled with grease. Next step was building the shocks. Team C but labeld with Ansmann. 93mm shocks for rear and 85mm for front. They are very good finished, looks awesome. The sorings are very soft. After that I build the rear axle and implement a wheel spacer, because my beadlock rims have only +6mm offset, but I need 10-11mm like the stock rims. I see in TT-01 community Super Blackfoot axles, they are 5-7mm longer. Perfect! But there was a new problem: how to fill the space between hex and ball bearing. I tried this: - rubber o-rings -> pressing to strong on the bearings and expensive - washer -> too big - special small rc washer -> too expensive ...think...think...think....I got it! Alloy tube from hardware store -> cheap, exactly 5mm inner width, unbreakable and easy to rebuild, if lost. I changed every tapped screw by M3 screws and small tubs. So suspension is very soft and clean and more stable than stock screws. I found two alloy hex adapters, installed only on rear axle. Building rear axle is same like front. C-Hubs I using are for TL-01 but fits also perfect on WT-01. Made of delrin and ball beared! The bearings are filled with rubber compared with bearings in gear box. The rubbers protect against dirt. For front shocks I need to change the piston rod from 51mm to 41mm. Otherwise the shocks would be too long. The chassis was very easy to build, only tapped screws. But for servo I have used alloy mounts from Tamiya with some spacers. Works good, but I hope the mounts don't broke again, like on my Blackfoot. Toward Pro servo from asia, 15kg alloy gear. Kimbrough servo saver, stable and short, it don't touch the chassis. No big deal, after that chassis looks like this: Rims are made by gmade, 2.2'' beadlocks, looks awesome and mustn't be clued. The have nearly same size like stock but bit bigger and No 1 grip! So the "final" chassis looks like this: Next step brushless kit and searching for a nice looking body shell. Bye for now!
  3. Hey guys - I have a Blackfoot 3 set up with dual motors and the performance is a little lackluster so I've been considering trying out a pair of Titan 550s along with either the EVX or EVX-2 ESC (or maybe some other ESC?). I don't want to spend a fortune, so a dual brushless setup is prob not ideal... and it has to run on NiMH. There's plenty of clearance between the top of the chassis and the body to strap on a 2nd battery, so dual batteries shouldn't be an issue. What do you all think?? Would the gearboxes do OK? Anyone tried this setup? Titan 550 Forward Rotation Motor (Part # 3975) Fan Cooled, 21 Turns, 14 Volt Length to End of Armature: 78mm (3.07") Diameter of Can 37mm (1.46") Length of Motor Leads 75mm: (2.96") Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (0.125") Titan 550 Reverse Rotation Motor (Part # 3975R) Fan Cooled, 21 Turns, 14 Volt Length to End of Armature: 78mm (3.07") Diameter of Can 38mm (1.5") Length of Motor Leads 75mm: (2.96") Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (0.125") Two (2) 17 Tooth Pinion Gears, 32 Pitch For 3mm Shaft (Part # 3947) Two (2) Set Screws EVX specs: Input Voltage (1.2VDC/cell) ......................................12 cells (14.4 volts DC) Case Width ................................................................................1.75 inches Case Depth ................................................................................2.17 inches Case Height ..............................................................................0.85 inches Weight (w/o heat sinks) ..............................................................3.5 ounces Motor Limit ....................................................19 turns minimum (550 size) On-Resistance–Forward (@Trans) ..................................................0.006 On-Resistance–Reverse (@Trans) ..................................................0.006 Rated Current–Forward ................................................................160 amps Rated Current–Reverse ................................................................160 amps Braking Current ............................................................................320 amps Continuous Current (@100°F amb.)................................................30 Amps Reverse Delay (after Smart Braking) ......................................Zero Seconds BEC Voltage ..............................................................................5.0 volts DC BEC Current ..................................................................................1.5 amps Power Wire ....................................................................................14G / 9” Input Harness ................................................................................26G / 9” Switch Harness ..............................................................................26G / 6” Transistor Type ........................................................................HYPERFET III PWM Frequency..........................................................................1000 Hertz Protection ......................................................................Thermal Shutdown EVX2 specs: 16.8 Volts of power Three Drive Profiles Patent Pending Training Mode Waterproof Design Double Coated Electronics Prevent Water Damage EZ-Set Push Button Setup Thermal Shutdown Protection Microprocessor Controlled Specifications: Input Voltage: 6-14 Cells (7.2 - 16.8V) Case Size (WxDxH): 2.27x2x1.05" Weight (w/o Heatsink): 3.6oz Motor Limit: 540 - 10 turn/550 - 12 turn On Resistance: 0.004 ohm Rated Current: 180 Amps Braking Current: 360 Amps Reverse Delay: None BEC Voltage: 6V DC BEC Current: 2.5 Amps Power Wire: 14awg 3" Input Harness: 26awg 9.5" Motor Wires: 14awg 9" Transistor Type: Mosfet PWM Frequency: 1700 Hertz Protection: Thermal Shutdown
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