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Found 14 results

  1. [Simensays has left the building] I've finally had some time to work on some more parts for my favourite Tamiya, namely the Wild Willy M38. Bumper: Wheels: Jerry Can Insert: Hard Top: Arm Stays:
  2. I have no idea in which subforum to put it really, but here goes ... Rambling background (skip to question if being impatient): I happened upon the @JennyMo "Short Willy" thread -> https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/81529-who-has-a-short-willy-mf-01x-wild-willy-2/ Of course, I couldn't let go of the "Let's build something" mood and started snooping around in the Showroom section, stumbled upon @tamiyamc and his Shortened Lunch Box -> https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=18355&id=1152 Then I realized that @Willy iine has some Willys too, so I checked the photos on his profile and now I fell off the chair - the shortened Beetle! So, well, when I am going down this route, I think a first step would be a shortie Pumpkin, since the Beetle might be a bit too hard as a first try with all the curves. Questions: Any pointers, tips, ideas on how do a a shortened Pumpkin on the WR-02 chassis? Or is just hacksaw, glue and "hey, ho, let's go"?
  3. Hi guys! I was wondering if the landcruiser 40 body and the decal set is still available from Tamiya? I'm needing replacements for my gf01 and even emailed Tamiya but was told the items were no longer available. Is this true? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  4. Inspired by @HondaHan's recent post here, I am looking at ways to lower my Comical Grasshopper. I'm after some advice about how to do this best. I won't be widening teh stance, as I have that covered with me wheels. I just need to go low. Pics show my current setup, which is base don the Yeah Racing WR02 hop-up arms and Shock Gear dampers (55mm version). The need to be lower comes partly from the huge silly tyres I'm using :-) Big wheels, slammed low is what I'm after! I figure If I drive on tarmac and with stiff shocks this should be OK. On the front, I think I have the optimum choice of holes to lower the ride height, but correct me if I'm wrong. On the rear, I have an issue. If I use what I think are the optimum holes (inner most at top, outermost at bottom) the shocks rub against the suspension mount at the top. This seems to be due to the fact that the yeah racing rear shock mount is about 5mm thick, and thus changes the angle of the real shock so that that slope backwards by about 5 degrees, instead of being pretty much vertical (when viewed from the side). As a result, the top of the shock is just too close to the shock tower when using teh inner most hole. This feels like a design flaw, unless I'm missing something? Is it possible to get a longer screw-in ball joint at the BOTTOM of the shock to move the back end 5mm further back to match? What other options are there? Second issue relates to the length of shock. I got the 55 mm version as they pretty much match the stock shocks, but I'm thinking perhaps the 55mm 'touring car' versions would be better? It is good practivce to lower a car by limiting the length of the shock? That feel like a hack to me, but perhaps it's normal? Could I go even shorter that 50mm shocks? Thirdly is just 'what am I missing? If people want a super low stance, what are the other options, and what other considerations showed I be thinking of? Thanks as ever. I'm always so impressed by the generosity of this community.
  5. So the essence of this project is simply to make something fun, a bit different, whilst making use of stuff I already have laying around. I’ve started with a WR-02 chassis that I bought a few months ago, nothing spectacular about it whatsoever other than it being in almost perfect condition for a 2nd hand purchase, although it was fitted with Traxxas(?) wheels & Monster Beetle tyres. Having already got 4 other WR02’s I wasn’t going to feel too precious about this one + having plenty of unused parts in boxes was all the inspiration I needed to start something. the first thing to do was remove the shell & put it on another model, the chassis was stripped & fully ballraced, the wheels were removed & replaced with a set of Bush Devil wheels which I had bought on a whim in another box was another random purchase of some Pro-Line Road Rage tyres which fitted perfectly so they were slipped on, and a set of Abisma height adjustable mini dampers were fitted to replace the Pogo stick suspension. These bits alone gave the chassis a really low slung carpet racer stance. Digging through a few other boxes turned up a few more colourful parts (hence Opal Fruit) to go on at some point (though I might buy some white parts & dye them) But the most important piece of this will be the body, to match the low slung look I need to make a body to match...
  6. I did some 8 deg c hubs for my Comical Hornet. They will fit any RWD vehicle that uses TL01 derivative suspension - Any of the WT02 derivatives, WT01, M04, there may be others. It improves front grip. It does exactly the same job as Tamiya 54661 but is a bit cheaper. If you have a GF01 or 4WD WT variant you need the Tamiya part. These don't have a hole for the front driveshaft to maintain strength in the 3d printed material. They are on my Shapeways store now. The other bonus for Comical chassis owners is these come in a loaf of colours, so you can get a green one for your Grasshopper, or pink for your Frog. http://shpws.me/RiXw
  7. Hi All. I am selling a new F Parts sprue for wild willy 2. There are 3 parts that are missing, F6, F7 and F8. All other parts are present. To clarify, the parts are new but the sprue is incomplete. £5 delivered within UK with PayPal gift please.
  8. Hi all. I'm after all of the wheelie bar parts from the 'F' sprue for a wild willy 2. Ideally new or lightly used but so long as all of the parts are there I don't really mind. I know I can buy a whole F sprue but I don't need the other bits as the wheelie bar is for my lads WT01 And I don't own a WW2
  9. Any commercially available sealed gear diffs for WR02? Any that will fit, with or without modification? Anyone try sealing a stock one with gasket sealer or anything? (I started a couple of these as an experiment, project interrupted- will share results) How about a real spool? (not locked) Thanks in advance
  10. Hi I have some SJ30/Jimny/WR02 parts I don't need. All are brand new and unused. Set of 4 'Blue chrome' wheels. 2 rear, 2 front. SOLD F Parts in White, £12 inc. UK P&P D Parts in Blue. £12 inc. UK P&P If anyone wants both remaining items then £20 inc UK P&P for the pair.
  11. all I have to say about this is that we had loads of fun...
  12. I own WR02G models but I have been looking at the WR02 chassis manual and seen that on stage 10 tamiya use parts e2 and e6 to help create the uprights using ball bearing wheels yet for the WR02G (stage 10) they changed it to use TL01 uprights with hex attachment for the front wheels!? Also the servo savers are different sizes, can anyone share there experience as to why this might be or if you have tried reverting a WR02G back to a 'normal' 2WD setup to find it drives strangely!? I know the difference is larger rear wheels, but does this really warrant the change? Thanks
  13. I have just made my pre-order for the Tumbling Bull, comes in at approx £98 inc tc discount and esc removed! Fusion have DT03 and GF-01 as well at great prices!
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