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[alvinlwh]

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[Silver-Can]

You could try adding some collars to the top of the shock body (they're typically 'c' shaped when looked at from above) and they just clip in below the shock cap and above the spring. This is to increase ride height but will not do anything to 'firm up' the shock action. Did you use the standard yellow 400 weight tamiya oil? You could try heavier/thicker oil if available, or try different inserts in the shocks (the little circular bit at the top of the shock shaft with a couple of small holes in). More holes = less resistance and vice versa.

In terms of bottoming out, it is preferable for the car to bottom out before you run out of shock travel as otherwise you put strain on the shock tower and the shock tower will break before the bottom of your car (in most cases)

Edit: just to add you could try using the springs from the friction shocks if they'll fit. They might be a bit stiffer than the dt03 ones.

[alvinlwh]

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[Silver-Can]

Cool - yeah, I would try adding the preloaded collars first as it will give you more ground clearance (and it's the quickest/easiest thing to try) and then just see how it rides on your chosen surfaces and then go from there.

You're right in that it is meant as a beach runner (and I personally prefer softer suspension) and with a 380 motor, rear end squat under power shouldn't be too much of an issue i wouldn't have thought. Just see how she handles on the corners and bumps and if needs be, add some thicker medium oil to maintain composure. 👍

[SlideWRX]

The *rear* CVA's in the DT-03 get a ~6mm spacer, just above the bottom spring perch.  That makes the shock bottom out before the body does, although it is very close.  Doesn't affect ride height.  Technically, you could put the spacer *under* the spring perch, and also get some spring preload too.

It is ok, and good for the shock to stay a little compressed at ride height.  It doesn't need to extend all the way back up.

[alvinlwh]

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[Oh How Original]

I would just add some preload collars too, either that or get some CVAs or other aftermarket shocks, the stock ones aren't fantastic.

Or stiffer springs all together.

[SlideWRX]

48 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Actually, I was thinking of doing that. Will give it a shot. However, how about what silver-can said about bottoming out the chassis is kinder on the shock towers ? 

It would be kinder on the shock towers, yes.  The rear chassis for your DT-02 looks a little more stout that the DT-03, so more landings on the chassis is ok.  My DT-03 still hits the chassis under full shock compression too.

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[whahooo]

@alvinlwh

Thanks for the Link.
What Oil would you recommend for the DT-02? Is there any "general Oil weight suggetion thread"?
I know that you can`t tell what oil will fit that chassis on that surface/Track... It depends on your Shocks, your Springs, your Pistons, your Track, your Batterytype, etc...

BUT a lot of people use the standard CVAs with 3 hole Pistons, so you can roughly say what is a general good setup for Tamiya Models or fun on Offroad or Onroad use.

[alvinlwh]

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[BuggyDad]

I've been trying a few things out too, and have had some success with aiming for a slightly lower ride height, which for me has meant taking out all the preload collars, setting the rear spring lower stop back below the spacer (so now there's a little free up and down play in the spring with the wheels off the ground) and using the outer hole for lower front damper mount (still inner at the back). I have slightly harder springs and 600 oil in the rear, stock springs and 400 in the front. My lower arms settle to pretty much dead level now.

I suspect mine is bottoming out a fair bit but is that an issue?

I had started off looking for more ground clearance than this but my car was so inclined to grip roll once I'd got all the camber, toe etc angles sorted and on good tyres that I set about bringing the centre of gravity down, to good effect. I could also achieve similar with an increased track width, but I struggle to achieve that at the moment with wheel nuts that tend to come loose on some wheels because there's no wriggle room in axle length.

[alvinlwh]

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[whahooo]

10 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I had started off looking for more ground clearance than this but my car was so inclined to grip roll

I akso was thinking about putting longer Rodends on the Ends of my cheap Alu Shocks. Sadly i don't know what Threadsize they should have, because i don't have the right tool to measure it by hand. M2 m2.5 m3 ?

This would help the bottoming out, but it would push the rolling.....

But maybe the Stabilizer i had installed in the Back will help, i could put the blue ine in....

[BuggyDad]

7 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Some suggestions here. 

 

Ah. Thanks. I popped a question on there. I think I'll try some serrated ones. 

[BuggyDad]

1 hour ago, whahooo said:

I akso was thinking about putting longer Rodends on the Ends of my cheap Alu Shocks. Sadly i don't know what Threadsize they should have, because i don't have the right tool to measure it by hand. M2 m2.5 m3 ?

This would help the bottoming out, but it would push the rolling.....

But maybe the Stabilizer i had installed in the Back will help, i could put the blue ine in....

Do you think a rear stabiliser bar will help reduce grip roll? I have the parts for this so will give it a try. Maybe front too?

To be honest I don't think my car is terrible on this front now, I'm asking a lot of it. The grass is oddly dry for december and pretty grippy. But it's fun chasing improvements. 

[whahooo]

11 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Do you think a rear stabiliser bar will help reduce grip roll? I have the parts for this so will give it a try. Maybe front too?

I don`t know....

On the DT-03 the People say "don`t bother with Stabilizers" and "they are Sluggush" but most of the People don`t install them right
The Manual don`t show the little Mudscrew that holds the rear Stabilizer so it floats freely around.

 

On the DT-02 i can say that it definetly improves the "roll". I have a DT-02 "Scorcher" with a strong speedy Motor (super Stock BZ?) and on Tarmac you see how horrible it rolls when cornering. It`s because i installed the shocks a long as possible, so the Car sits very high and has al lot of Sag (soft setting)....
In that Car i installed Stabilizers in the Front and the rear, i think i installed the soft red ones and they definetly help with the roll. Ididn`t installed the blue ones becaus i thought they will reduce the "Offroadines".

[BuggyDad]

1 hour ago, whahooo said:

The Manual don`t show the little Mudscrew that holds the rear Stabilizer so it floats freely around.

Ooh. Tell me more. I fitted my rear one as per the manual and it's floating about all over the place. What am I missing? There are two unused holes in the piece that goes over the Stabilizer but no spare hardware in the pack. 

[whahooo]

Here is the Post:

 

There are 2 little red Points marked in the Manual. There you have to screw in 2 Grubscrews.

I did it and now the Sway Bar Works.

 

I have to see if you have the same Option with a DT02.

 

I also purchased the Hard Shockoil Set from Tamiya and will put the thinnes of the Hard Oils in the Back of the DT02 and DT03.

 

[BuggyDad]

31 minutes ago, whahooo said:

Here is the Post:

 

There are 2 little red Points marked in the Manual. There you have to screw in 2 Grubscrews.

I did it and now the Sway Bar Works.

 

I have to see if you have the same Option with a DT02.

 

I also purchased the Hard Shockoil Set from Tamiya and will put the thinnes of the Hard Oils in the Back of the DT02 and DT03.

 

Ah ha! Yeah I did wonder. 

Done. My pack didn't come with extra grub screws for this. I have some longer ones though so have cut them down just right. There may also be clearance enough for a small screw head in the recess left by the chassis. 

Are you running your sway bar in conjunction with anything to slow your diff down? I think if I'm fitting a sway bar I may have to do something a bit more about the free spinning diff to take care of a more often lifted inside wheel with the rear sway bar, and/or fit the front one to go with it. I built my diff up using some red grease I'd seen compared to AW grease but now I have some AW grease I see that in reality the red stuff is nothing of the sort, just a normal consistency grease, and it makes little difference. Unfortunately my AW grease is just a dollop that came with some cv joints, not enough for a diff. Maybe I'll get some putty. 

[whahooo]

I always run miy diffs completly free.

The only cars that use a stiffer Diff are using Ball Diffs.

At some point i have to stiffen all of my diffs and change the aluminium Pinoins for some Steel ones. But i dont use my Cars very often, so i never botherd with the research what car needs what Pinion size.....

Also i use motors that arent as powerful as the brushless ones that a lot of people like to use.

[alvinlwh]

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[BuggyDad]

Interesting. I'd say our 17.5t is faster than our TT, but we didn't compare them side by side. 

[whahooo]

The Super Stock motors are very good 23T motors.

Nany People only see the Turns.....

 

A super Stoch 23T motor easily beats an Absima 19T thrust spec motor in rpm and torque.