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XV-02 Lancia Delta - Tamiya Rally Review - Alejo's Project Thread

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You have a great CR-01 there, it looks great with that body.

I really like your fabricated skid plates, I've ordered third party bumpers for mine but would one day would give your method a try (once I've had some bravery pills).

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Thanks for the comments!

On 11/30/2021 at 4:38 PM, Badcrumble said:

I really like your fabricated skid plates, I've ordered third party bumpers for mine but would one day would give your method a try (once I've had some bravery pills).

Doing the skid plates is fairly simple, no more complicated than doing them in paper/plastic. The aluminium sheet is just as easy to cut as paper when you use metal-sheet scissors. I used 0.040" aluminium sheet on the front and 0.025" on the rear. To fold it, a simple flat plier was used as fulcrum and then bent by hand. Screwholes were done with a hand vise.

Tools.JPG.b666b1aca938814b2919bfcd7d7339c4.JPG

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CR01 Chassis (continued)

Wheelbase

The CR01 chassis has a 288mm wheelbase. Strange that Tamiya chose such wheelbase for the CR01, when all of its models use bodies originally meant for the CC01 chassis with significantly shorter wheelbases. In my opinion, all CR01 kits look odd with their kit bodies with tires protruding too far outwards. Here is where the Toyota Hilux body, with a wheelbase of 285mm comes to the rescue. It fits like a glove and it really makes the CR01 chassis shine. The other High-Lift bodies are also an option: Ford F350 body (also 285mm) or the Toyota Tundra (310mm, which would require some modification).

At first I wanted to mount the Hilux body in the same way it is mounted on the High-Lift, this way I could easily swap bodies between the two cars. However, this would have meant creating some brackets to mount the body with screws, which would have made switching batteries on the field a hassle. On the High-Lift chassis this is not an issue since the battery can be replaced without removing the body. In the end, I decided to mount the body via the regular body posts.

Motor Assembly

The instructions call to mount the motor assembly, from the bottom of the chassis, into the already-built frame.

CR01-Manual-01.jpg.6e357cf3bd2fdb68ed3a0e20356351df.jpg

In my case, I had already soldered the motor to the HW1080 ESC. This meant I could not feed the ESC towards the upper deck. The easiest solution was to remove part E1 of the upper deck, feed the ESC, and then place it again. Note the motor end faces towards the front of the care, while the upper deck is on the rear, you will need to solder the motor wires to leave the motor towards the rear if you want to prevent some serious bending of the wires.

4WS (4 Wheel Steering)

This option was chosen to achieve a smaller turn radius. Once the car was built and tested, the front wheels were set to 100% end-point for the largest possible steering throw and rear wheels were set to 50% end-point to make their steering less noticeable. You really need to tweak the front/rear alignment to make sure the car not only goes straight as a whole, but each axle goes straight individually (otherwise the car would run straight but "sideways" like how dogs sometimes walk). The alignment can be done by a combination of tweaking the length of the steering rods and through the transmitter trim of each channel. 

Electronics

Sound system: ESS One Plus. Just like the CC02, this car also goes vroom vroom!!

ESC: The trusty Hobbywing Quicrun 1080.

Servo: 4WS setup with 2x Power HD 1812MG waterproof 18 Kg-cm, both with an aluminum horn.

Radio: Futaba R2006GS receiver + Futaba 3PL transmitter (4WS support).

Motor: Yeah Racing Hackmoto V2 35T coupled to a 25T pinion.

 

On my next post I'll take some comparison shots of both the High-Lift and CR01 and comment on their performance.

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12 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

The CR01 chassis has a 288mm wheelbase. Strange that Tamiya chose such wheelbase for the CR01, when all of its models use bodies originally meant for the CC01 chassis with significantly shorter wheelbases. In my opinion, all CR01 kits look odd with their kit bodies with tires protruding too far outwards. Here is where the Toyota Hilux body, with a wheelbase of 285mm comes to the rescue. It fits like a glove and it really makes the CR01 chassis shine. The other High-Lift bodies are also an option: Ford F350 body (also 285mm) or the Toyota Tundra (310mm, which would require some modification).

That’s exactly what I mean . All the stock bodies seem to me teetering on the edge rather than being a cohesive vehicle. That extra wheelbase makes all the difference. IMHO wherever possible wheel centres should sit in the middle of wheel arches. 

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CR01 Performance

I'll be comparing the Hilux High-Lift (HL) with the newly-built Hilux CR01

Hilux-01.JPG

Background:

  • Both cars have their suspension 100% stock and custom-built skid plates on front & rear differentials
  • The HL is using Tamiya Monster Beetle tires (6205028) (~120mm OD)
  • The CR01 is using the stock Vise Crawler tires (~125mm OD)

Ground Clearance:

HiluxHL-Clearance.thumb.jpg.147bc41f0b90afd1e44fb399915e8f4a.jpg

CR01-Clearance.thumb.JPG.ab7f15de2e4edbf49824ca1a962b5c61.JPG

Putting all the ground clearance measurements together (Front/Center/Rear)(mm):

  • High-Lift: 30/50/32
  • CR01: 36/64/34

The CR01 has a significant lead over the HL, specially in the center. Furthermore, the HL center skid plate has a forward & rear facing edges, which are prone to getting caught/stuck in obstacles. The CR01 has a much smoother belly that tends to let obstacles slide.

If you were to remove the skid plates, add around 2mm of clearance.

Wheel Travel:

HiluxHL-WTravel.thumb.JPG.ccde64dbbd58c8ecfdaf8170c0f7a679.JPG

CR01-WTravel.thumb.JPG.861159f3872dad142725cc7c4942c7bb.JPG

Measured the height of the black Lego tower until the extended corner wheels had slight contact with the ground.

Wheel Travel (mm):

  • HL: 73
  • CR01: 101

Here the CR01 massively outperforms the CC01.

Clearing Obstacles:

I have had the opportunity to take all the four cars down the smaller hiking trail that I know very well (~4km) and the larger more demanding one (~13km). These are my observations. First a re-cap of their stats:

CR01-Perf.jpg.65a51107671fb4b26823fba103ee6eb5.jpg

To be fair and in it's defense, the 3-speed HL chassis was designed to have a realistic suspension and not really to be a great performer. I have the HL chassis with open differentials both front and rear and this greatly reduces its ability to clear obstacles. The reason this was done is because the HL, being all metal, is a very heavy chassis and this would put quite a lot of strain on the drive-shaft splines if diffs were locked. The result is that the CR01 is completely above and beyond the HL in performance, its not even a fair comparison.

A better comparison is between the CR01 and the CC02, both of which have the rear differential locked. Initially I thought the shorter wheelbase of the CC02 would put it an advantage when attempting to climb high corners, but since it has a lower center clearance than the CR01, they are about equal. As far as straight-out clearance the CR01 has a clear advantage and its massive wheel travel puts it on top. The wider Vise Crawler tires also offer the benefit of allowing it to not fall in-between terrain cracks as often and keep itself "afloat" bumpy terrain (somewhat of a "snow shoe" effect). Although the CR01 does not have weighted wheels (something the CC02 does have) it still feels extremely well planted given its wider stance and a slightly lower center of gravity. Adding weighted tires to the CR01 would make even more stable, at the cost perhaps of stressing drivetrain components a bit more.

All in all, the CR01 is more capable at clearing tougher obstacles than the CC02, even though the CC02 is using tires far larger than it's kit stock.

Maximum Speed & Wheel Speed:

All the four cars are setup to run at jogging speed (~8.5 kph) maximum. In the case of the CR01, the stock motor + kit 20T pinion would have achieved this. To limit torque and reducing battery consumption, a 35T motor + 25T pinion was selected and resulted in a very similar speed. The car easily cleared all obstacles on both hiking trails without breaking a sweat. I had the luxury of even attempting to go off course on some parts of the trail just for fun. The wider tires also mean that for the same wheel speed, it has greater friction to climb slippery slopes.

Gearbox Noise (what noise? this is pure bliss):

This was something that didn't even cross my mind when purchasing the chassis: the CR01 has the most amazing gear sound of all my RC collection :wub:. It literally transports you to RC sound heaven as you hear it go! This is a consequence of the planetary gear arrangement. It's sound is not the regular "whine" of other cars, it has a very nice tone to it that invokes robust mechanical power, its hard to describe :)

Such delight comes from its sound, that I was really tempted to go without the ESS sound module, but in the end decided to fit it anyway as the gearbox sound complements the simulated engine sounds. Maybe in the future if I get another car I'll pass the ESS to it (far future as I've burned my RC budget :o).

Turning Radius:

4WS is a great feature. The front steering was kept at a maximum and the rear at 50% end-point. This allowed to have a tight turn radius (considerably smaller than the CC02) and keep the rear wheel movement more inconspicuous. The CR01 has about the same turn radius as the HL, also with 4WS. However, since the CR01 has one servo on each axle, the steering is much more responsive and powerful.

Durability:

Looking at its build, materials and clearance, I expect this chassis to be very robust. Apart from the real need to have skid plates (which I strongly recommend), there don't seem to be any glaring weaknesses. The car was put to the test on the two hikes, totaling ~17km, and nothing seems loose, broken or affected. No really deep or rough scratches were present on the bottom plastic plate, reinforcing the idea that perhaps it can go without an aluminium center skid. The kit seems to be commonly available in stock, the same for spare parts if they are eventually needed. Regarding the AG threadlock and bolt torque aspect, time will tell but so far it's great.

Final Thoughts:

Among my trail car stable there is a new performance king: the CR01 Hilux :) Man, that Toyota Hilux body just looks stunning, makes you think this is how the CR01 was meant to be. IMO the standard kit bodies are not my cup of tea (wheelbase mismatch) but if you are willing to mate it to a more suitable body, it is quite a splendid model to include within your fleet :)

Something that is relevant to me but perhaps not to other folks, the car is about as heavy as my CC02 but much larger. This is something that reduces my ability to bring the car for hiking compared to the CC01/2 (it has to fit in the trunk of my bike and leaves little space for other things). It also consumes a bit more power than the CC02. Using the same 3600mA NiMh battery, it lasted 8km on the CR01, as opposed to 11km on the CC02.

I think the CR01 is a great addition to any collection. Greatly recommended.

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On 12/1/2021 at 6:59 PM, OoALEJOoO said:

The CR01 chassis has a 288mm wheelbase. Strange that Tamiya chose such wheelbase for the CR01, when all of its models use bodies originally meant for the CC01 chassis with significantly shorter wheelbases. In my opinion, all CR01 kits look odd with their kit bodies with tires protruding too far outwards. Here is where the Toyota Hilux body, with a wheelbase of 285mm comes to the rescue. It fits like a glove and it really makes the CR01 chassis shine. The other High-Lift bodies are also an option: Ford F350 body (also 285mm) or the Toyota Tundra (310mm, which would require some modification).

On 12/1/2021 at 7:15 PM, Busdriver said:

That’s exactly what I mean . All the stock bodies seem to me teetering on the edge rather than being a cohesive vehicle. That extra wheelbase makes all the difference. IMHO wherever possible wheel centres should sit in the middle of wheel arches. 

Digging in Tamiyabase, it seems that the CR01 Land Cruiser, Unimog and Bronco were released about two years before their CC01 counterparts. Very odd that they fit the CC01 better! I guess Tamiya had the CC01 in mind all along since the chassis was released way before the CR01 (1993 vs 2008).

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This is a great write up.  Between this and the CR01 monster truck post, the CR01 is looking really appealing. That body looks great on it too.

What's the largest pinion it could take? I'm wondering if it could be built for more of a general purpose basher/jumper/monster truck style build, as opposed to a dedicated crawler.

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

This is a great write up.  Between this and the CR01 monster truck post, the CR01 is looking really appealing. That body looks great on it too.

What's the largest pinion it could take? I'm wondering if it could be built for more of a general purpose basher/jumper/monster truck style build, as opposed to a dedicated crawler.

25T is the largest pinion, and even here the ratio is very short at 32.40. Using the stock silver can motor + Vise Crawler tires it would run at around fast jogging speed (~11kph). I believe it would have the same speed as your MF01X using a 55T motor + 18T pinion + TT01 truck tires (~70mm).

Having said that, I would hesitate to run a rig like a CR01 or CC02 at even mildly fast speeds, but I admit I'm fairly conservative, other folks might be more fearless :) They are heavy cars and a crash, flip or even jump would have far worse consequences than lighter cars. Traction rolling would also be very frequent on higher grip surfaces since their CG is high and suspension soft. The CC01 would be a better basher since it's lighter and lower.

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59 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

 

TrailCars-02.thumb.JPG.693e9a9fca6d21be4add7e353e9adb9f.JPG

Great photo! It's hard to tell which one is the best. All are very nice.

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3 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Photo Shoot

Hilux-02.thumb.JPG.0b5c971e1817262b4bda3ebcebc4b560.JPG

Hilux-03.thumb.JPG.7b1aa227b97860cb44879aa75605cd02.JPG

Hilux-04.thumb.JPG.db04a0e60edb147dff77494469156f0a.JPG

TrailCars-02.thumb.JPG.693e9a9fca6d21be4add7e353e9adb9f.JPG

Now moving to round three: 6x6 Unimog on a G6-01TR chassis :)

I’m watching. If the Unimog is a half as good as the others it should be fantastic..

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3 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

I’m watching. If the Unimog is a half as good as the others it should be fantastic..

Those are all amazing. The MF01x and and CR01 are definitely my favourites. Funny how they are both nominally 1/10 chassis originally.

Nice work as always. 

 

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Thanks for the comments guys! :)

The Unimog will be a bit more tricky than the other two. It's my first time with an RC with more than 4 wheels and the body will require significant customization.

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G6-01TR Mercedes Unimog 406

Chassis

This time I'll start with the chassis since I would need to know it's exact dimensions & geometry before starting with the endeavor of customizing the Unimog body.

Many thanks to @Busdriver for providing the inspiration and ideas on his Dynamog build!

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/90111-dynaheadishdynamogpolar-bear-tour-bus/

Regarding the chassis build, I have studied the manual and have several doubts/questions:

1. Diff putty. I have used this before on TT02 chassis to mostly lock the front differentials (low-grip parking lot racers) and it works very well. It has maintained it's locking ability after a lot of use and heat. However, the TT02 diff insides are very tight, there is no empty space away from the gears for putty to collect over time. In contrast, on the G6-01TR there seems to be a good amount of empty space on the corners of the triangle-shaped diff case where putty could be collected and loosen the diff stiffness over time. @Busdriver have you experienced any looseing?

Diff.thumb.jpg.a21681f75470c1a8a0ca4f08f9d2233d.jpg

2. Friction Shocks. They seem much better than other Tamiya friction shocks (e.g. TT01E). Given that this is not a high-speed racing car, I would think shock dampening is less important than spring rate & travel, which the friction shocks seem adequate. Any thoughts?

3. Dirt entry points. It's full of them! So far I think entry points are the little pin-hole at the center of each gear shaft and also any seams when fitting parts E2 and E3. The manual calls for anti-wear grease but I think shoegoo should take care of this better. Any other entry points that I might be overlooking?

G6-Chassis.jpg.4d14b43854a97234e538cd3008ed0679.jpg

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3 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

G6-01TR Mercedes Unimog 406

Chassis

This time I'll start with the chassis since I would need to know it's exact dimensions & geometry before starting with the endeavor of customizing the Unimog body.

Many thanks to @Busdriver for providing the inspiration and ideas on his Dynamog build!

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/90111-dynaheadishdynamogpolar-bear-tour-bus/

Regarding the chassis build, I have studied the manual and have several doubts/questions:

1. Diff putty. I have used this before on TT02 chassis to mostly lock the front differentials (low-grip parking lot racers) and it works very well. It has maintained it's locking ability after a lot of use and heat. However, the TT02 diff insides are very tight, there is no empty space away from the gears for putty to collect over time. In contrast, on the G6-01TR there seems to be a good amount of empty space on the corners of the triangle-shaped diff case where putty could be collected and loosen the diff stiffness over time. @Busdriver have you experienced any looseing?

Diff.thumb.jpg.a21681f75470c1a8a0ca4f08f9d2233d.jpg

2. Friction Shocks. They seem much better than other Tamiya friction shocks (e.g. TT01E). Given that this is not a high-speed racing car, I would think shock dampening is less important than spring rate & travel, which the friction shocks seem adequate. Any thoughts?

3. Dirt entry points. It's full of them! So far I think entry points are the little pin-hole at the center of each gear shaft and also any seams when fitting parts E2 and E3. The manual calls for anti-wear grease but I think shoegoo should take care of this better. Any other entry points that I might be overlooking?

G6-Chassis.jpg.4d14b43854a97234e538cd3008ed0679.jpg

I didn’t use much when I first built it, but recently I packed the back 2 quite heavily, basically locking them . I left the front as it was.. I haven’t run it much since but I think it wil hold up well. You don’t reallywand to be opening it up to redo the diffs as it’s quite a job!!! Personally I would lock the back two and stiffen the front. 
I wondered are you doing full bearings for the build. I would recommend that you do throughout inc the portals.Without there’s is a massive amount of drag put on the motor!!

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I’ve stuck with the kit shocks but obviously changed the wheels and tyres from the Dynahead ones.. Mine are Unimog wheels with 110mm crawler tyres. That size allows 4WS if your going for that. Any bigger and the back two pairs bind. 
 

as far as the gaps are concerned I think I jut used aw grease where suggested. When I split the chassis to pack the diffs there was no evidence of any ingress of dirt etc.

 

the best part of the build is the prortals. Especially if you are doing the full bearing set. Each one is a little masterpiece!!

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Dirt entry points, the GF01 also has them. IIRC the shaft itself is hollow at these points, so a tiny amount of dirt can get into the shaft, but then it doesn't get into the chassis at all.

I've no idea why they are there, but there might be a good reason - it would be odd for tamiya just to drill holes in a chassis for no reason, unless it's a part of the manufacturing/moulding process.

 

 

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On 12/5/2021 at 7:22 PM, Nikko85 said:

Dirt entry points, the GF01 also has them. IIRC the shaft itself is hollow at these points, so a tiny amount of dirt can get into the shaft, but then it doesn't get into the chassis at all.

I've no idea why they are there, but there might be a good reason - it would be odd for tamiya just to drill holes in a chassis for no reason, unless it's a part of the manufacturing/moulding process.

I have been thinking about this for a while. Many Tamiya cars have this pinhole on the center of gearbox shafts but others don't :huh:. The most glaring pinhole I've seen is on the "sealed" Sand Scorcher gearbox which is incredibly full of holes for a car marketed to run on the sand!

As you say it might be something related to molding or perhaps Q/A. I can't see how it performs any function in the working car and the fact that not all cars have it (even though they use the same materials and similar design) makes me think it has no functionality. Venting, pressure balance, lubrication ports, can't see any usefulness. I am leaning towards perhaps some sort of datum or reference center-point for the molds or something.

On the G6-01TR some shafts are hollow and others solid, but in either case I assume they do not contact the chassis since you want the chassis halves to contact one another, leaving a tiny gap. As @Busdriver reported, no dirt got in his, so I am assuming it's not a big deal. Will probably plug the holes with a drop of shoegoo.

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On 12/5/2021 at 4:07 PM, Busdriver said:

I’ve stuck with the kit shocks but obviously changed the wheels and tyres from the Dynahead ones.. Mine are Unimog wheels with 110mm crawler tyres. That size allows 4WS if your going for that. Any bigger and the back two pairs bind. 

as far as the gaps are concerned I think I jut used aw grease where suggested. When I split the chassis to pack the diffs there was no evidence of any ingress of dirt etc.

the best part of the build is the prortals. Especially if you are doing the full bearing set. Each one is a little masterpiece!!

Thanks, I'll stick with the standard shocks and see how it goes.

Regarding tires, man yes you are right! I overlooked the 4WS :o I went for the largest tires that would not touch but forgot about 4WS...my choice was RGT Desert Fox 1.9" 118mm tires, which I anticipate should hopefully have no binding without 4WS. Let's see how it goes because I do plan to build with 4WS. Looking at the instructions of the rear steering, and judging by the angle of the kit servo saver and it's steering link, it seems the rear steering has much limited throw than the front. Am I assuming correctly?

On 12/5/2021 at 2:28 PM, Busdriver said:

I didn’t use much when I first built it, but recently I packed the back 2 quite heavily, basically locking them . I left the front as it was.. I haven’t run it much since but I think it wil hold up well. You don’t reallywand to be opening it up to redo the diffs as it’s quite a job!!! Personally I would lock the back two and stiffen the front. 
I wondered are you doing full bearings for the build. I would recommend that you do throughout inc the portals.Without there’s is a massive amount of drag put on the motor!!

Will go with the rear diff fully locked using the unused plastic lock from the CC02 kit (came with six pieces C7, only used two). The other two diffs will be stiffened using putty.

Got a full set of rubber-sealed bearings for the whole kit, although I would probably put the kit's non-rubber sealed on places that do not face the exterior. The portals indeed look fascinating, glad I'm not trypophobic :). They should be a treat to build.  I plan to start building the chassis tonight.

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4 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Am I assuming correctly?

Yes 

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G6-01TR Chassis (continued):

After a few fun and interesting nights, the chassis has been completed. It was a real treat to see the all those internal gears lined-up and spinning :). Each of the portals are a small wonder and nice to see in operation.

The kit was build stock with the 4WS options, with the addition of:

  • Full rubber sealed bearings (except for some in the portals which did not face the exterior, of which the standard kit ball bearings were used).
  • Aluminium servo horns
  • Diff lock parts from CC02 kit (parts C7)
  • 35T motor + 20T pinion (aiming jogging speed ~8kph)
  • Aluminium motor heatsink
  • 1.9" steel weighted beadlock wheels
  • RGT Desert Fox tires (118mm OD)

Portals

A highlight of the chassis are the portals, little hubs full of gears that increase ground clearance + shorten the gear ratio for phenomenal torque. Each of them is a nice little gem to build. Initially I was a bit concerned to see the the bearing leading to the wheel drive had a counter-sink (left picture below). I've found this to be a design weaknesses in the CC01 which shares a very similar geometry. Twigs will roll on this countersink and quickly chew-up the rubber seal of the bearing. Tamiya has introduced an improvement, with what is essentially a plastic washer/filler being placed behind the drive-pin to fill this cavity (center and right pictures below, part R3):

G601TR-Portals.thumb.JPG.1a58ce995b23a328b7c463f901771fb0.JPG

Since two extra spare R3 pieces are provided in the kit. I am planning to fit them in the CC01 chassis, where my earlier solution was to use a metal bushing instead of a bearing. I haven't checked if they fit but since it's the same bearing size, it is quite likely.

CC01-Sink.png.c48a527c6ba70929ab399b6648262103.png

 

4WS (4-Wheel Steering)

A neat feature that I always take advantage of, in the G6-01TR chassis this was a bit challenging with my tire choice. I essentially picked tires that are too large to fully take advantage of all the available rear steering throw :(

When the tires are straight, there is no binding and looks quite good. Tires come really close together, which should provide superb performance to go over terrain. Electronics have just been temporarily placed to check the 4WS.

G6-01.thumb.JPG.9e083733e23df8295b5491848646b0dd.JPG

The front EPA was set to around 80% at full steering lock:

G6-02.thumb.JPG.9ee2cb980302c9c3a3710730684756c0.JPG

On the rear the available steering throw is much shorter by design. The steering link is much shorter and the servo saver has to be mounted on closer angle. Still, even with the reduced throw, the large tires meant only very little movement was possible. EPA was set to 20%.

G6-04.jpg.c747bd7ff3262b1339d3d3f01f5847e7.jpg

G6-03.thumb.JPG.82d060636fd23fb2e398653709ffcb16.JPG

I guess at the end its a trade-off. The large tires will offer better terrain performance at the expense of larger turn radius. I did a few trials without a body climbing a small mountain of cushions in the living room and man this thing has traction!

 

Motor Heatsink

A regular heatsink can be installed in the cramped space by just trimming a few of the edge fins half-way through their length. Not that I expect the motor to run too hot, but cooler is always better.

G6-05.JPG.7d451e88c0affa75b35bdf57b7e049a6.JPG

 

On the To-Do List:

Several items are on-hold until the body is built to ensure everything interacts well:

  • Body post mount
  • Skid plate, a very long one!
  • Front & rear bumpers
  • Electronics mounting plates (probably)
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1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

Looking good so far. Now the best bit, the body!!!!

Very true :) I'm looking forward to start building the body.

Unimog 406 Body

I want to build it as a utility vehicle so no racing livery this time. I'm pretty much set with a white roof but every color seems nice, so many great choices I can't really decide!

Found a picture of roughly what I want the final setup to be and mocked-up a few color options:

PS2 Red:

Unimog-PS2-Red.jpg.87e93f0ba38ed69f4367e83bfc81b7c4.jpg

PS6 Yellow:

Unimog-PS6-Yellow.jpg.e5b445602786d2f92ec65f4cfa3b4237.jpg

PS7 Orange:

Unimog-PS7-Orange.jpg.49f826bb13491b2c15ca72da63bd7cc5.jpg

PS8 Light Green:

Unimog-PS8-LightGreen.jpg.84f7c60503a6f4137931a417404ec5f6.jpg

PS32 Corsa Grey:

Unimog-PS32-CorsaGrey.jpg.7f0408a3072f58244681e069b9ea6f93.jpg

PS34 Bright Red:

Unimog-PS34-BrightRed.jpg.31365daa103e4a338292c6f0b41875fe.jpg

PS56 Mustard Yellow:

Unimog-PS56-MustardYellow.jpg.e484819c795e1a50d04269f5e1a97aa8.jpg

PS62 Pure Orange:

Unimog-PS62-PureOrange.jpg.1421eabe99de706fffb9535427d4f0a5.jpg

I'm leaning towards a more subdued color. The Corsa Grey and Mustard Yellow would fit the bill. Since the CC01 Land Cruiser is already in Mustard Yellow, I am really considering going for the Corsa Grey.

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Or either of the two orange’s would look good., is that body finally fixed? I’d love to see how you connected it all together and then mounted it?

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