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XV-02 Lancia Delta - Tamiya Rally Review - Alejo's Project Thread

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On 5/1/2022 at 1:25 PM, Nikko85 said:

They all look amazing, but that Tyco MF01x is still king!

I bit the bullet and got a second set of TT01 truck wheels. This allowed to have two full sets of 4x rear wheels + 4x front wheels , which is something usable instead of the single-set 2x + 2x. The Tyco Nissan truck now has these shiny wheels, which match the real truck a lot better! Will post some shots shortly.

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SRB Blitzer Beetle Build

There is something fantastic about the Blitzer Beetle body that just screams fun!

This is my favorite Tamiya livery of them all. While I appreciate the tremendous stability and control the stadium truck chassis provides to the Blitzer Beetle, I find the wide wheels a bit awkward-looking:

box_58122_01.jpg

xBlitzer1.jpg.bd5817ff7f25bc6de5dc0466caaa261b.jpg

In contrast, the Sand Scorcher's realistic tires fitting the wheel arches look fantastic. However, its box-art while iconic, lowers the awesomeness a couple of notches (Tamiya pundits might scream blasphemy! :)).

box_58016_01.jpg

As far as looks go, matching the Blitzer body to a SRB chassis will combine the best of both worlds.

I will be using my old re-re 2010 Sand Scorcher and also adapt standard 12mm-hex wheels both front and rear. Being able to mount modern buggy tires will be great.

Blitzer Body:

A re-re Sand Scorcher body, molded in white plastic, is the starting point.

Tamiya's TS-36 Fluorescent Red was the color of choice for the nose cone and wheels. I think this is the color that best matches the orangy-red on the stickers. The white plastic might help a bit in getting the color to match even better.

Paint went down nicely, followed by a couple of coats of TS-13 Clear. The stickers seem a tad more orange, but should get a bit darker once applied on top of the black body.

2127436264_BlitzerColor-2.JPG.1f8ecf1c46bebc632c7fdd10765de2ae.JPG

 

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Loving this, I’ve had 4 BB and it is one of my favourite chassis, but the front wheels DO stick out far too far and it always makes me think of a Spider Crab for some weird reason 😂

C037-E862-A5-EA-40-FA-BFCA-AF429887-AE96

 

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I too love a Blitzer and agree about the front wheels. The deep dish wheel accentuates the look. Shouldn’t be too difficult to narrow, I think I got a set of lower arms spare so may have a go one day??

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3 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

Loving this, I’ve had 4 BB and it is one of my favourite chassis, but the front wheels DO stick out far too far and it always makes me think of a Spider Crab for some weird reason 😂

:) A crab might be a cool addition, after all Tamiya has already given us a Beetle, Hornet, Frog, Cheetah, Bear Hawk, Bull (Madbull), Manta Ray and Fox! ...and I get the feel I'm missing some!

Edit: + Falcon!

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Looks like a cool build @OoALEJOoOB) That fluro red looks like a decent match. What's the plan for making the 12mm hexes work on the front end? 

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The body is taking a while. In the meantime, I'll jump to adapting standard 12mm hex wheels on the SRB chassis.

SRB 12mm Hex Wheels (front and rear):

Parts used:

  • Boom Racing 12mm Hex widener 15mm:
    • Two hexes + thin locknuts are used on the rear wheels
    • Two screw-locknuts + inner lockscrew are used on the front wheels. I found that this set in particular had its screw-locknut right at 5mm O.D. which meant it would fit inside a 5mm I.D. bearing (850 and 1050). I tried other hex widener brands I had in my spares box, with similar screw-locknuts, but all of them were a bit too large to allow sliding through a bearing. Perhaps any brand can be made to work with a bit of fine sanding.
    • There is enough to convert 2 SRB cars with one set.

boom-racing-brw780924-15mmbk.jpg

  • GPM DT-03 Front wheel adapter. If you don't have an adapter, I believe it should be possible to improvise one by drilling two countersunk 8mm & 2.5mm deep holes on each end of a regular plastic 12mm & 10mm long hex. The trick would be to have these holes as concentric as possible.

gpm-racing-dt3010fgm.jpg

  • Tamiya 53587 5mm shims (or just use the ones provided in the Boom Racing kit, if you are lucky their thickness is right).
  • Ball Bearings:
    • 850 (5x8x2.5mm): 4 total (2 per front wheel). I swapped the ones provided with the GPM adapter set with rubber-sealed, but you could just use the provided metal-sealed).
    • 1050 (5x10x4mm): 2 total (1 per front wheel)
    • 1050 thin (5x10x3mm): 2 total (1 per front wheel)
  • Metal Bearing (used as spacer):
    • 850 (5x8x2.5mm): 2 total (1 per front wheel). Alternatively, a ball bearing can be used.

Front Wheels:

The trick to fitting 12mm hexes is to realize that:

  • There are two assemblies, which should not come in contact with one another:
    • The static assembly is composed of the shaft and any element in contact with it, including the locknut. All spacers and bearing's inner rings are part of this assembly.
    • The spinning assembly is composed of the wheel plus any element that spins. All bearing's outer rings are part of this assembly.
  • Bearing support is needed at the wheel (like the standard SRB front wheels).
  • The DT-03 front wheels used had a very deep well, requiring the spacing to be pushed out to prevent contact with the steering knuckle.

With this in mind, the front shaft was stacked with the following:

  • 3x0.3mm thick 5mm shims
  • 1x 850 metal bearing (spacer).
  • 1x 1050 ball bearing
  • GPM adapter (fitted with 850 bearings)
  • Wheel
  • 1x 1050 thin ball bearing
  • Screw -locknut with the inner lockscrew to tighten.

Blitzer_Front_01.JPG.897299973a782c740c639d76d5dd47d5.JPG

Setup:

  • Take measurements as your wheel and/or components might vary their thickness slightly. You want the wheel to spin freely, meaning a very tiny gap is needed. Too much gap and there will be wheel wobble, too little and the wheel will not spin freely.
  • The wheel through-hole needs to be widened to prevent it contacting the inner ring of the bearings (on both sides). A 6mm or 7mm hole will do the trick. The wheel now has no contact with the static assembly and only contact with elements of the spinning assembly (GPM adapter and outer bearing ring).

Blitzer_Front_02.JPG.b002d2fa32bb9be68fd515ebb3bd48c3.JPG

  • Tightening can done via the screw-locknut itself, but I found this was prone to put compressive load on the bearings inner rings, which caused the wheel to spin a bit less freely. Instead, tightening was done using the inner lockscrews, which achieve preload by putting the screw-locknut in tension leaving the bearings stress-free. Loctite can be used to fully secure it.

Blitzer_Front_03.JPG.8f731a6cb14cdc3fdd9a220211acc582.JPG

Rear Wheels:

A lot simpler than the front. Just fit the 15mm wideners on the pin and tighten with the thin locknuts.

Blitzer_Rear_01.JPG.4a192e8f90a5503adb362de73c15b4bc.JPG

And there you have it folks. The system seems pretty sturdy. It will be tested once the body is finished.

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Nice work and interesting solutions mate. Thanks for all the details:)

How do you find the fit of the fronts with the hex bearing adapters? Lots of people say they leave you with wheel wobble. How many threads have you got on the nuts at the front?:unsure:

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@Kol__ No more wobble than the standard SRB front wheels, it's all about shimming the space. The front adapter nuts got almost all the way to the end, with nearly 7 full turns.

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Barry Volkson Jr. got some fluorescent treatment, more colorful than the box art version. The mustache ended up a bit tilted by mistake. It is now part of his charm!

BarryVolksonJr.thumb.JPG.7f2534e526f0b0ab85b65cc252e248d2.JPG

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I am in awe of your driver painting skills! That is brilliant! And to think I did my blitzer driver with coloured permanent markers :wacko:

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That's a very sharp 'tache!

Will you post your front wheel mod in the build tips section? People having been trying to get this to work for years.

There doesn't seem to be a method that doesn't involve modding the wheels but yours has been least destructive, I think.

Have you got any running in to see how it goes?

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On 5/22/2022 at 2:48 AM, Badcrumble said:

Have you got any running in to see how it goes?

Unfortunately haven't got the chance to finish the model yet. Worst of all, I don't know of any open dirt space in the area. Concrete and grass are fairly common in my area but not dirt :(. I don't want to risk driving it on concrete since the SRB is very prone to rolling. Perhaps the beach is an option, the car will have to be a basher-in-waiting until then :)

Mr. Barry got a coat of matte spray and is ready to board his ride.

BarryVolksonJr-2.JPG.74ed82af0185f378ff31debf4b6dbf5e.JPG

BarryVolksonJr-3.JPG.590773893f7eb930a5c9727abd0f49bc.JPG

The helmet was painted first yellow and then TS-36 Fluorescent red on top, giving it a slight orange tone. I now think this is probably the best way to match the sticker tone. Too late for the body though, as it's nose is painted already and it did turn out a bit reddish compared to the stickers.

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Looks great and your driver painting skills are amazing. 
 

I may have missed the answer to this question - but why use the DT02 wheels and change from the standard SS wheels? 

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@Grumpy pants, my mistake! The wheels used are not from a DT-03 but from a TT-02B. I guess the rear wheel could be used in both, but the TT-02B has hex in front, while the DT-03 has a bearing mount.

There was no strong reason to go with these wheels other than re-use. I had bought some dual-block tires to run my TT-02B Plasma Edge on the street, leaving the spiky tires on a shelf. Since I also had all the bits and pieces on-hand for the conversion, including a set of white spare wheels, I decided to go for it.

In the end I think it looks better than the "spider crab" original Blitzer or the Sand Scorcher with skinny front wheels :)

My original inspiration was this car from legendary @Truck Norris

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=127631&id=43050

img43050_05112015215052_2_1100_.jpg

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TT-02R Ferrari F12 TDF

Continuous rain has been preventing me from running my cars unfortunately. To still get my RC fix, I've been focusing on building some of my backlog. Some years ago I purchased a TT-02R kit, along with a Ferrari shell, and the time came to get it built.

FerrariF12-1.JPG

Chassis Kit: TT-02R – Tamiya 47326, which includes the following components:

  • 3deg Rear Aluminum Uprights
  • Aluminum Propeller Shaft & Cups
  • Metal Drive Shafts
  • Aluminum Motor Mount
  • Super-Mini CVA Shocks
  • High-Speed Gear Set (includes both 64T and 68T spurs)
  • Aluminum 5mm ball connectors
  • Aluminum Flange Locknuts
  • Aluminum Turnbuckle Shafts
  • Ball Bearings

Body & Tires:

  • Ferrari F12 TDF – Tamiya 47378
  • Touring Car Cockpit Set – Tamiya 54298
  • Medium-Narrow 10-Spoke Wheels (Gold) – Tamiya 51022
  • Medium-Narrow Racing Radial Tires – Tamiya 51023

Extra Hop-Ups used:

  • Hard Deck – Tamiya 54926
  • Front Universal Shafts  - Yeah Racing
  • Aluminum Steering Assembly – GPM Racing (junk, more on this later)
  • Aluminum Motor Heatsink – Yeah Racing
  • Aluminum 55mm Shocks - Yeah Racing (instead of the kit super-mini CVA)
  • Motor ball bearings
  • High-Torque Servo Saver – 3Racing
  • 5mm Shims - Tamiya 53587
  • 3mm Shims - Tamiya 53585
  • 0.75mm Wheel Spacer - Tamiya 54573
  • 22mm Low Friction Suspension Shafts - Tamiya 54395
  • 5mm Body Adjustment O-Ring - Tamiya 54384

Misc. household items used:

  • Black Gorilla Duct-Tape
  • 5x9mm Silicone Tubes (the ones used in re****erator water & filter piping)

Electronics:

  • Motor: Super Stock TZ – Tamiya 53696 (with added ball bearings)
  • ESC: 1060 60A – Hobbywing
  • Receiver R2006GS – Futaba
  • Servo: 5508MG – JX
  • Cooling: x2 30x30mm Rasperri-Pi Fans – Cheap-o eBay

Settings:

  • Gears: 64T Spur + 27T Pinion for a 6.16 FDR
  • Expected Max Speed: about 37 kph
  • Wheelbase: 257mm
  • Ground Clearance: Low

After years of running, crashing and all-round generous bashing of both TT-01E's and TT-02's, I've learned a few tricks. I'll cover these over the next few posts and share some thoughts about the build and its components :).

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Ferrari F12 TDF Body:

The classic all-red Ferrari is great but I wanted to do something a bit more elaborate with the F12 while at the same time keeping a classic Ferrari vibe.

This seemed a bit too simple:

dsc_5518_63804.jpg
 

Then, after searching online for some F12 TDF examples, I came across this:

96faa1d43e13f98ad5b34d6d383da027.jpg

In what seems like eons ago, I got the chance to build a 1/24 1967 Ferrari 330 P4 (Fujimi), from which it appears the above F12 TDF was a tribute:

Ferrari330P4.JPG.712a2c55096372e2709895d99d12c8dd.JPG

This settled the color scheme, along with needing gold wheels.

Masking was done by:

  1. Drawing lines on top of the external film using a marker pen. A piece of straight thin plastic was used as a ruler to trace the lines.
  2. Markings were placed to locate the white circles, also on the external film.
  3. Using the external reference lines, internal masking was placed in this order:
    • Windows & lights
    • Black areas on the grill and rear
    • Circles where placed for the white numbering circles
    • Stripes where placed last for the yellow stripes

Spray paint was done in this order:

  1. PS-34 Bright Red
  2. PS-01 White to back the red on the area next to the yellow stripes
  3. Remove Stripe masks
  4. PS-06 Yellow
  5. Remove Circle masks
  6. PS-01 White to back everything
  7. Remove grill & rear masks
  8. PS-05 Black on the grill/back areas plus two light coats to back everything

Mirrors were painted using Vallejo acrylics, then sealed with TS-13 Clear.

Numbering was done using vinyl stickers from the local stationery store.

Panel lines done using a 0.5mm black permanent marker.

The S.E.V. Marchal and Heuer (helmet) stickers are from screenprintdigital (eBay). All other stickers from the kit.

The cockpit was done using:

  • Main cockpit tray: TS-14 Black.
  • Helmet: PS-34 Bright Red followed by TS-13 Clear.
  • Details: All other parts were painted with Vallejo acrylics, then sealed with TS-80 Flat Clear.

FerrariF12-5.JPG

Internal reinforcements were done using strips of black Gorilla Duct Tape. I find this method increases durability substantially without the hassle of the alternative method of ShoeGoo + Mesh applicaiton. I might still put some ShoeGoo on the edge of the front fender though as I could not reliably put tape there.

FerrariF12-7.JPG.f0d980ca3deefbe2f031af84dd848099.JPG

The end result :) :

FerrariF12-4.JPG

As you can see above, the two ducts at the sides of the front grille were painted red to better match the 330P4 looks. It turned out great!

FerrariF12-3.JPG

FerrariF12-1.JPG

FerrariF12-2.JPG

Some thoughts:

  • The screenprintdigital stickers are great in thickness and material. However, it seems to be a real let-down that their inks are not properly backed with white. There was significant bleed-through from the body and helmet's red underneath :(. For stickers of this price range, I would have expected Tamiya-level quality.
  • No really convinced by the looks of the blingy blue wheel locknuts, might replace them with black ones later.

Overall a fantastic body from Tamiya!

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Excellent detail description and method, and a superb result. Great job 👏 

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TT-02R Chassis:

My experience with TT-02s so far has been the regular kits and minimum hop-ups. Parking lot racing has been great with them and with great anticipation I expect this TT-02R model to be a notch above my earlier more basic TT-02s.

FerrariF12-6.JPG

My comments are in the context of casual parking-lot racing using powerful brushed motors with NiMh batteries (I don't have LiPo or brushless setups). I haven't had a chance to run the car yet. Below are my thoughts. I have limited experience in racing, please feel free to comment/correct me as needed :):

TT-02R included hop-ups:

  • 3deg Rear Aluminum Uprights: These are meant to give measurable stability improvement.
  • Aluminum Propeller Shaft & Cups: Not really convinced these are needed, unless when creating very high-torque situations. This would require having a very powerful motor plus a very grippy surface. For parking-lot racing, I've used Super-Stock TZ motors with all sorts of pinion combinations, in hot days, and have never had any problems with the standard plastic shafts. I even think perhaps the slight twist the plastic prop-shaft allows might actually act as a very limited-angle center diff, allowing a slight dampening of front/rear rotational speed differences during torque transients.
  • Metal Drive Shafts: Same as above, never had an issue with the standard parts.
  • Aluminum Motor Mount: Same as above, never had an issue with the standard parts.
  • Super-Mini CVA Shocks: I've always run my cars with CVA shocks, this time I decided to improve a bit and went with Yeah Racing aluminum shocks instead.
  • High-Speed Gear Set (includes both 64T and 68T spurs): A must-have for any TT-02 racing.
  • Aluminum 5mm ball connectors: bling
  • Aluminum Flange Locknuts: bling
  • Aluminum Turnbuckle Shafts: Great option. The ones in the steering allow toe adjustment on the front and centering the car right at the servo & trim center. The turn-buckle on the servo arm allows to have the steering links centered at the servo & trim center (for more symmetric steering action).
  • Ball Bearings: Must-have

FerrariF12-9.JPG.a4f31cec9923fc1eb22ff98d90358cd3.JPG

Extra Hop-Ups used:

  • Hard Deck – Tamiya 54926: These are relatively low-cost and I hear make the car a lot more responsive and sensitive to setup changes. The regular deck will serve as a spare for my TT-02 rally car.
  • Front Universal Shafts  - Yeah Racing: Seems to be a recommended upgrade. I've never had any problems with the stock dogbones but decided to give these a try. Yeah Racing quality looks great.
  • Aluminum Steering Assembly – GPM Racing: Complete junk. The parts have more slop than the standard kit plastic parts! All the bore holes are too big, making the bushings move around significantly. For a moment I was considering going back to the plastic parts. At the end shimmed the bushings with aluminum foil and it turned out quite well. Shaft lengths had to be shimmed too. I am putting GPM in my never-again list, not a good brand. Even the blue color is off. I had a CC-01 steering assembly from GPM and it was also junk, it needed to file parts and tweak spacers before it could fit well.
  • Aluminum Motor Heatsink – Yeah Racing: Must have for any motor, specially if running in hot weather and/or long gear ratios.
  • Aluminum 55mm Shocks - Yeah Racing (instead of the kit super-mini CVA): First time running aluminum shocks, the adjustable ring was great. Quite impressed by Yeah Racing.
  • High-Torque Servo Saver – 3Racing (3RAC-SHAMU). Must-have to get the best out of the steering, specially with all the other steering upgrades. These 3Racing savers are much cheaper than Tamiya (51000) and work well. However, you have to put a 3mm spacer (0.2 or 0.3mm thickness will do) to lift the servo cap a little bit, otherwise the friction between the servo halves is too large and the servo won't center easily after a bump.
  • 5mm Shims - Tamiya 53587: Used to remove the last bit of slop in the suspension.
  • 3mm Shims - Tamiya 53585: Also used to remove the last bit of slop in the suspension.
  • 0.75mm Wheel Spacer - Tamiya 54573: Adds a little bit of width. Sometimes during parking-lot racing, if the car gets a bit upset during high-speed cornering and it hits minor bumps, it can roll. The extra width (even if it's minor) helps avoiding these. This only happens on very high-grip surfaces (concrete that has a sandpaper-like finish).
  • 22mm Low Friction Suspension Shafts - Tamiya 54395: They were cheap so I got them, not sure they add much.
  • 5mm Body Adjustment O-Ring - Tamiya 54384: My previous method to protect the body from scratching internally from the body clips involved cutting small foam pieces to put on top of the clip. These o-rings fulfill this function and save time.

Other mods and improvements:

  • Front braces: Heard about this somewhere here on this forum. Adding a pair of turnbuckles that connect the front uprights to the bumper greatly removes slop. You have to be careful to adjust the turnbuckle length carefully to avoid introducing camber and friction inadvertently. The post at the bumper were sized so that the beams are horizontal when the suspension is pressed mid-way. This ensured friction was minimal across the suspension travel length.

FerrariF12-8.JPG.b7b35a9ac0e2d2d6ba00591096f611bf.JPG

  • Silicon tubes instead of body clips at the rear: Clips at the body post make it really cumbersome to fit through the cockpit tray. This can be worked-around by cutting larger holes on the cockpit tray where the clips can easily go through, but this doesn't look to good. My solution was to use silicone tubes (the ones used in fridge water lines) to set the body height. This keeps the hole in the cockpit tray small and at the same time protects the body since the tubes are soft. I wish the tubes were available in black color.
  • 2x 30mm Raspberri-Pi fans: One to cool the motor (tied to the heatsink) and a second one to cool the ESC (tied above the ESC, protected with a portion of part D8). These fans are low-speed, low-amp draw, low-cost and can take a beating. True, their airflow is not fantastic, but I find it is sufficient to keep the Super-Stock TZ running strong even in hot weather (30+ degC).

FerrariF12-10.JPG.dd4d00d043b1159ce8ae7b5e05818e3f.JPG

As a bonus I also got a set of Tamiya's 54874 Adjustable Upper arms to play around with camber settings. First I want to play around with the car as-is, to get a feel of the effects of the current hop-ups, before I install these.

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I’m not usually a fan of Ferraris but “man I am tonight “

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@OoALEJOoO thanks for all the detail 👍

The clear tubing idea to act as a body support with the cockpit tray (and maybe even the TT02 dust cover too) is a great idea. In terms of something black, this product might work? It comes in a range of internal diameters, including 5, 6 and 7mm so would work with different diameter body posts

https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/smooth-nitrile-rubber-fuel-hose?gclid=Cj0KCQjwguGYBhDRARIsAHgRm4_BRTzkd_d6okuqaUq_H81PdAf4WuNllJGzh7Ft_W9LMXMZe6rSaVMaAqmMEALw_wcB

The front turnbuckle mod looks similar to the torsion rods on the front of some TA04s (eg TA04-R), although they attach back to the upper deck rather than forwards onto the bumper. Very neat!

spacer.png

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@Juhunio Thanks for the idea! Just checked eBay and similar nitrile black tubes are readily available. I was running out of the white silicone tube and was about to purchase some more. I'll now switch to the black nitrile.

Indeed that TA04 looks quite neat! I've been thinking a bit of ways to add torsion rods to the M-06 and M-05, similar to the ones you show on the TA04. One option could be attaching above the kingpin axis. Haven't really thought it through yet.

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On 9/7/2022 at 7:46 AM, Juhunio said:

@OoALEJOoO thanks for all the detail 👍

The clear tubing idea to act as a body support with the cockpit tray (and maybe even the TT02 dust cover too) is a great idea. In terms of something black, this product might work? It comes in a range of internal diameters, including 5, 6 and 7mm so would work with different diameter body posts

https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/smooth-nitrile-rubber-fuel-hose?gclid=Cj0KCQjwguGYBhDRARIsAHgRm4_BRTzkd_d6okuqaUq_H81PdAf4WuNllJGzh7Ft_W9LMXMZe6rSaVMaAqmMEALw_wcB

The front turnbuckle mod looks similar to the torsion rods on the front of some TA04s (eg TA04-R), although they attach back to the upper deck rather than forwards onto the bumper. Very neat!

spacer.png

I designed this a little while ago:

 

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A few more details on the small tweaks done on the build:

As in my previous builds, washer protectors to prevent the shock's bottom connector from getting chewed-up by road pebbles:

FerrariF12-12.JPG.142e3f86f6422d8423e3400f9610b6d1.JPG

The space for the battery is too wide for a NiMh pack. To prevent the NiMh rattling and to bring it a bit closer to the car's center, the dense foam tape that comes with Tamiya's cockpit sets was used as a filler on the outside edge of the lower deck:

FerrariF12-11.JPG.303fa497563b1b58d1e004fe5db1198c.JPG

Another simple tweak was to add an oring at each end of the aluminum propeller shaft. Without them, the shaft had enormous axial play.

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