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XV-02 Lancia Delta - Tamiya Rally Review - Alejo's Project Thread

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6 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

As in my previous builds, washer protectors to prevent the shock's bottom connector from getting chewed-up by road pebbles:

I'm just back from a rally run and chewed another pair of short adjusters that I use on my front shocks at the bottom. I will try your washer trick! You just made my day 😃

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8 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Another simple tweak was to add an oring at each end of the aluminum propeller shaft. Without them, the shaft had enormous axial play.

I found the same as I'm building my TT02S with shaft hop up. Seems odd they only provide a single o-ring (and say to fit in the front cup) when as soon as you assemble it, it's clear the right answer is two.

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51 minutes ago, naturbo2000 said:

I found the same as I'm building my TT02S with shaft hop up. Seems odd they only provide a single o-ring (and say to fit in the front cup) when as soon as you assemble it, it's clear the right answer is two.

I use one of the pink urethane bushings, split in half with one piece in either ends. I agree the single black o-ring is super strange.

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Running Impressions:

Finally got a chance to run the car yesterday. A good afternoon of parking lot racing where I compared my earlier Nissan R390 TT-02 with the Ferrari F12 TT-02R build.

To set the baseline, the two cars tested were:

TT-02R Ferrari F12 TDF (current build):

  • Super-Stock TZ motor with 6.16 FDR
  • Medium-Narrow Racing Radial Tires (51023)
  • 3deg Rear Toe
  • Hard lower deck

FerrariF12-1.JPG

TT-02 Nissan R390, very similar build compared to the above, except:

  • Super-Stock TZ motor with 5.74 FDR
  • Racing Radial Tires (50419) (less grip)
  • Stock Rear Toe (0 deg as explained by @Pylon80)
  • Stock lower deck

1.JPG

 

Effectively there is little difference between these two builds except for the tires, rear toe and the hard lower deck. Both have a mildly stiff front diff. The TT-02R was a lot more stable and easier to keep on a straight line than the TT-02. I believe this is the effect of the 3deg rear toe, since both cars have very little steering play (both have the same shimming and front stabilizer). I could not feel any difference in responsiveness because of the hard deck, my thought would be that a grippier surface is needed to feel a difference. The TT-02R's grippier tires resulted in a bit more corner exit power understeer (mostly because of the mildly stiff front diff) and a bit more entry corner speed.

Was the TT-02R worth it? Absolutely. In fact, the cost was about the same of the TT-02 once you add oil shocks, bearings and high-speed gear set. The only difference is that the TT-02R does not come with a body, but it comes with many aluminum bits, especially those great 3deg rear uprights.

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Note that the stock rear uprights are 0deg despite the tenacious legend that they are 1deg :) They have to be 0 because there's no Left and there's no Right and ditto for the arms. Everything can be flipped. If they were 1deg you could build the car at 1deg toe out by mistake, which you can't.

I put my TT-02 in a setup station and there so much slop (even with brand new parts) that depending how you wiggle the car the station will read anything from 1.5deg toe in to 1.5deg toe out.

I guess the TT has active toe depending on whether you accelerate or brake 🤣

Nice report and I love your approach to testing methodically rather than bashing! Both shells look amazing too.

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11 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Nice report and I love your approach to testing methodically rather than bashing! Both shells look amazing too.

I've been thinking about a better way to evaluate the parking-lot racing cars. Ranking lap-times could be a method, but I'm worried my driving is not consistent enough!

One option could be to get an accelerometer, attach it to the chassis and measure similar performance parameters used in real cars:

  • Straight-line acceleration
  • Skid-pad lateral G
  • Braking distance

Could be a fun project. The thing is that I already have too many ongoing projects! It could also be a way to connect my earlier project (not much progress unfortunately):

 

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Mini-Chassis Rally Showdown

Switching gears from pavement to gravel, time for a Rally Showdown of epic mini proportions. FWD vs RWD.

I'll be pitting the classic FWD M-05Ra Suzuki Swift Super 1600 against a custom-built RWD M-06Ra Mazda Miata. First things first, an introduction of the contenders:

M05-6_01.JPG.f1ff8937ec452502d84936d290caabd0.JPG

 

On the left corner, wearing yellow shorts, we have the M-05Ra Suzuki Swift. I've had this car for a while but recently added double-cardan joints and a cockpit.

M05-6_02.JPG.faaa1402b74e5283e3a3e8ca5c2a1e37.JPG

 

On the right corner, wearing black & white shorts, the challenger: a M-06Ra Mazda Miata. I've also had this car for some time and recently converted it into a M-06Ra spec. This build has both a fictional chassis and livery.

M05-6_03.JPG.d1ff81d1e16f784ed9b2c90a4e49c6ab.JPG

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Really looking forward to the M chassis comparisons. I am building a rally spec M06 chassis to go under my Alfa and have managed to squeeze the long aluminium CC02 / XV01 shocks onto the chassis with very soft springs which seem to work very well. Keen to see your RA set up.

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M-05Ra Suzuki Swift Super 1600:

This is a straightforward M-05Ra build with a few added hop-ups.

Parts used:

  • Tamiya 58464 Suzuki Swift Super 1600 M-05Ra Kit
  • Tamiya 42300 Double-Cardan Joints (Front)
  • Tamiya 54193 Aluminum Steering Posts
  • Tamiya 54184 Aluminum Motor Plate
  • Tamiya 53924 DF-03 Heatsink Bar Set
  • 540-Motor Clip-on Heatsink (can't remember the brand)
  • Tamiya 54247 3x18mm Turnbuckle
  • Tamiya 51000 High-Torque Servo Saver Black
  • Tamiya 54753 CVA Super-Mini Shock Set
  • Tamiya 53646 Whell Spacer Set 05 & 1.0mm (0.5mm used)
  • YeahRacing TAMC-007BU 3x93mm Turnbuckle
  • BoomRacing 18T M06 Steel Pinion
  • Sealed Ball Bearings
  • Tamiya 53587 5mm Shims
  • Tamiya 53585 3mm Shims
  • Tamiya 54491 Rally Cockpit
  • Tamiya 53255 Inner Sponge 60D Hard
  • Tamiya TEU-104BK ESC (from kit)
  • HobbyWing 3A UBEC
  • JX DC6015 Digital Servo
  • Silvercan motor

Chassis:

I was a bit concerned with how enclosed and prone to heating the chassis could be. To counter this, I was able to fit a thin clip-on heatsink at the end of the motor with the fins pointing upward. The DF-03 cooling rods were placed oriented towards the right of the side of the car, whereas instructions and web pictures have them facing the left. I think this better allows them to cool, and also could improve a little bit the weight offset this car already has (and I also added some weight to the left with the clip-on heatsink).

The two halves of the chassis had a tiny gap that could let dust into the gears. Normally Tamiya's off-road chassis have labyrinth (stepped) seals on their mating halves to keep debris out but the M-05Ra does not.  I guess this is a result of the M-05 chassis originally designed for on-road. My solution was using aluminum tape (the one used on AC systems) to seal the seam. This tape works wonders because it can conform extremely well and tight to curved surfaces. Some of this tape was also used where the motor meets the aluminum plate.

Suzuki-Swift-09.JPG.8701f51eb82c5c569c90858b84398f11.JPG

Other than that, the build was pretty standard, except the addition of hop-ups listed. As much slop as possible was removed via shimming. Turnbuckles are great to center the steering right at the servo center point.

Suzuki-Swift-08.JPG.ad9b6756fed01601cdb13b65f8eebe31.JPG

A few of my regular tweaks were also added in the form of washer protectors for the bottom connector of the front shocks and rubber tubes in-place of body mounting clips on the rear.

The kit came with an older TEU-104BK ESC which does not have a built-in BEC, thus necessitating a dedicated UBEC unit. Another regular feature on my rally cars is a bagged receiver and, in this case, also the UBEC.

A note on the front drive train:

I originally tried the car with standard dog-bones in the front. The amount of rattling and clicking to me was a no-go. They rattled like crazy even with zero steering. Dog-bones barely do the job on the standard M-05 and the M-05Ra with a raised suspension makes the torque oscillation unmanageable. I upgraded to regular universal shafts and they reduced the straight rattling significantly, but there was still significant rattling when steering. I ran the car like this for some time but was not really satisfied. I then upgraded to 3Racing M-03 Swing Shafts (M03M-11/V3) which have the pins rotated 90-deg. These eliminated the straight-line rattling but still left some rattling at full steering lock. I finally buckled and went all-in with double-cardan joints. These were not cheap but definitely eliminated all the rattling even at full steering lock!

Body & Cockpit

The body was painted with PS-06 Yellow, backed with PS-01 White, and everything then backed with PS-05 black.

Suzuki-Swift-04.JPG

As in my previous builds, the cockpit was finished using a combination of sprays (Tamiya) and acrylics (Vallejo). I tried to render Swedish driver J. Andersson and co-pilot P.G. Andersson with some details added to their Suzuki Racing coveralls.

Suzuki-Swift-01.JPG

Suzuki-Swift-03.JPG

It was a very nice build and the car runs great. Compared to 4WD or RWD, you really need to re-think how you drive to get the most out of a FWD car :) I am glad I got this M-05Ra some time ago, they are a bit hard to get now.

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M-06Ra Mazda Miata:

The second entry to the Mini Rally Showdown is a M06 converted to rally spec.

Parts used:

  • Tamiya 58486 M-06 Alfa Romeo Guilia Sprint Kit (the Alfa body is now retired)
  • Tamiya 47434 Eunos Roadster Body
  • Tamiya 51425 M05Ra F Parts (Upright)
  • Tamiya 51444 TRF417 Cross Joint Set
  • Tamiya 51445 TRF417 Wheel Axle
  • Tamiya 54969 33mm Lightweight Aluminum Swing Shaft
  • Tamiya 54753 CVA Super-Mini Shock Set
  • YeahRacing M06-013MBU M-06 Motor Plate & Heatsink
  • Tamiya 53924 DF-03 Heatsink Bar Set (only 1 bar used)
  • YeahRacing TAMC-007BU 3x93mm Turnbuckle
  • Tamiya 54247 3x18mm Turnbuckle
  • Tamiya 51000 High-Torque Servo Saver Black
  • Tamiya 53509 Hard-Coated 20T Pinion 0.6mod
  • Sealed Ball Bearings (plus two 1150 3mm-thick bearings)
  • Tamiya 53587 5mm Shims
  • Tamiya 53585 3mm Shims
  • Tamiya 54491 Rally Cockpit
  • Tamiya 53255 Inner Sponge 60D Hard
  • Tamiya TEU-105BK ESC (from kit)
  • JX 5508MG Digital Servo
  • Slidelogy Gyro (as a way to counter the anticipated power oversteer)
  • Silvercan motor

Chassis:

Miata-12.JPG.70ea32cc5ec9529f748a94fb624ea63b.JPG

I had this chassis for a very long time, running with kit's Alfra Giulia body. For the showdown, the main thing was to raise its ground clearance using the M-05Ra upright parts. A side-effect of the increased clearance was severe rattling of the rear drive train. The solution was to go with 90deg-rotated universals, which Tamiya does not make for Mini chassis. 3Racing makes one (3Racing M-03 Swing Shaft M03M-11/V3) but it has 30mm shafts that fall short. I had to go with the build-your-own route, which used 51444 + 51445 + 54969. Almost perfect but a bit too long now. A quick fix was to use 3mm-thick 1150 bearings on the wheel inside (instead of the regular 4mm-thick). Once these were installed, the car had a rattling-free drive train at full droop. The Ra uprights increased the ground clearance by about 6mm.

Miata-15.JPG.2b14ef4b596f16d2aae4c228ea886270.JPG

The M-06 chassis also tends to have the motor run hot. I decided to go with YeahRacing's excellent motor plate & cooler, plus added a single cooling bar from the DF-03 heatsink set. The bar was placed on top, plus a 30x30 Raspberri-Pi fan with a plastic scoop (from a TT-02 kit).

Miata-14.JPG.78194f99f7545e66a088bd3cc70db820.JPG

Plastic mud-guards were improvised to avoid dirt accumulation on the tub. First made in paper, then finalized in thick plastic.

Front (note the bumper using material from a sandal :)):

Miata-10.JPG.02d20b54abb5626b95997f1ac118799c.JPG

Rear:

Miata-09.JPG.745fcc6f6b12630b2daa70f61c9f93f0.JPG

Body & Cockpit

The body was painted with PS-01 White and then backed with PS-05 black. Fictional Loctite/HKS livery.

Miata-05.JPG

Miata-06.JPG

Miata-07.JPG

As in my previous builds, the cockpit was finished using a combination of sprays (Tamiya) and acrylics (Vallejo).

Miata-03.JPG

Miata-02.JPG

I'll now run both the M-05Ra and M-06Ra and see how they compare :)

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Running Impressions:

Finally got a chance to run the cars over the weekend. I went to my regular corner in the local park, with an improvised track over the sidewalks and parking lot. There are some uphill/downhill sections, some bumps, high-speed corners and hairpins. The running surfaces are concrete and asphalt with grip varying from grippy to very grippy.

Both cars were run with Tamiya's 60D Rally Blocks Front & Rear and with stock Silver-Can motors. As far as pinions, the M-05Ra had 18T and the M-06Ra a 20T.

M-05Ra Suzuki Swift Super 1600:

Being FWD, the car drives very similar to a FF-03 with the expected power understeer. Most of the cornering power is achieved by either off-throttle or slight braking. Heavy braking results in understeer. This dynamic translates into a car that needs skill to drive and a methodical approach to cornering. Essentially, you need to follow procedure to get the best performance. For tight corners, you need to brake hard to reduce speed, then initiate corner off-throttle, then exit corner progressively adding throttle as you go out. If you approach the turn too fast, you will get understeer and there is not much you can do other than lightly braking (to get more turn-in) but you will loose a lot of speed. For hair pins, brake to achieve desired speed, turn opposite then quickly into the turn while off-throttle. You cannot initiate a flip via braking like you do in a 4WD or RWD car. This is essentially what makes the car methodical -it is very difficult to improvise on the spot. I didn't have a chance to test the car on gravel but anticipate that the understeer will probably be more pronounced.

The Suzuki Swift body works really well for rally because it has a very short nose, it will not get hung up on bumps or ramps. Similar to the FF-03, the front tires get a lot of abuse and will wear very quickly. The spikes of the Rally Blocks nearly wore-off completely after a single 3600 mAh NiMh battery pack. The rears had only a little wear. Perhaps moving from the current 18T to a 20T pinion would help in reducing front wheelspin and wear.

M-06Ra Mazda Miata:

The Rally Block tires gave the car massive traction & grip. A lot easier to drive, the car consistently felt that could go around the course a lot faster than its M-05Ra counterpart. Improvisation is a lot easier; you can approach a corner with less-than-ideal speed and still adjust on-the-fly through throttle or braking. I chose a 20T pinion to get less take-off torque and reduced chance of spinning and it definitely helped. Driving with the gyro off was possible on this grippy surface. After testing the gyro on a very low 10% setting, the car became extremely easy to drive, enabling full throttle corner exits without fear of spinning.

Increasing the ground clearance made a lot of difference. The car could tackle a lot rougher terrain compared to when it was a stock M-06. Body roll did go up, but that's part of the charm of a rally car. Regarding tire wear, the rear tires got their spikes worn about 50% and the front about 25% after one 3600 mAh pack.

Closing thoughts:

It is really great that each car drives different, which is precisely what makes it interesting and fun. The M-06Ra makes a better basher and all-around friendlier car, while the M-05Ra favors skillful driving & pace. It's hard to tell which one is better or more fun as it will depend on what you are after.

As they say, when in doubt, get both :).

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On 9/7/2022 at 4:57 AM, OoALEJOoO said:

TT-02R Chassis:

My experience with TT-02s so far has been the regular kits and minimum hop-ups. Parking lot racing has been great with them and with great anticipation I expect this TT-02R model to be a notch above my earlier more basic TT-02s.

FerrariF12-6.JPG

My comments are in the context of casual parking-lot racing using powerful brushed motors with NiMh batteries (I don't have LiPo or brushless setups). I haven't had a chance to run the car yet. Below are my thoughts. I have limited experience in racing, please feel free to comment/correct me as needed :):

TT-02R included hop-ups:

  • 3deg Rear Aluminum Uprights: These are meant to give measurable stability improvement.
  • Aluminum Propeller Shaft & Cups: Not really convinced these are needed, unless when creating very high-torque situations. This would require having a very powerful motor plus a very grippy surface. For parking-lot racing, I've used Super-Stock TZ motors with all sorts of pinion combinations, in hot days, and have never had any problems with the standard plastic shafts. I even think perhaps the slight twist the plastic prop-shaft allows might actually act as a very limited-angle center diff, allowing a slight dampening of front/rear rotational speed differences during torque transients.
  • Metal Drive Shafts: Same as above, never had an issue with the standard parts.
  • Aluminum Motor Mount: Same as above, never had an issue with the standard parts.
  • Super-Mini CVA Shocks: I've always run my cars with CVA shocks, this time I decided to improve a bit and went with Yeah Racing aluminum shocks instead.
  • High-Speed Gear Set (includes both 64T and 68T spurs): A must-have for any TT-02 racing.
  • Aluminum 5mm ball connectors: bling
  • Aluminum Flange Locknuts: bling
  • Aluminum Turnbuckle Shafts: Great option. The ones in the steering allow toe adjustment on the front and centering the car right at the servo & trim center. The turn-buckle on the servo arm allows to have the steering links centered at the servo & trim center (for more symmetric steering action).
  • Ball Bearings: Must-have

FerrariF12-9.JPG.a4f31cec9923fc1eb22ff98d90358cd3.JPG

Extra Hop-Ups used:

  • Hard Deck – Tamiya 54926: These are relatively low-cost and I hear make the car a lot more responsive and sensitive to setup changes. The regular deck will serve as a spare for my TT-02 rally car.
  • Front Universal Shafts  - Yeah Racing: Seems to be a recommended upgrade. I've never had any problems with the stock dogbones but decided to give these a try. Yeah Racing quality looks great.
  • Aluminum Steering Assembly – GPM Racing: Complete junk. The parts have more slop than the standard kit plastic parts! All the bore holes are too big, making the bushings move around significantly. For a moment I was considering going back to the plastic parts. At the end shimmed the bushings with aluminum foil and it turned out quite well. Shaft lengths had to be shimmed too. I am putting GPM in my never-again list, not a good brand. Even the blue color is off. I had a CC-01 steering assembly from GPM and it was also junk, it needed to file parts and tweak spacers before it could fit well.
  • Aluminum Motor Heatsink – Yeah Racing: Must have for any motor, specially if running in hot weather and/or long gear ratios.
  • Aluminum 55mm Shocks - Yeah Racing (instead of the kit super-mini CVA): First time running aluminum shocks, the adjustable ring was great. Quite impressed by Yeah Racing.
  • High-Torque Servo Saver – 3Racing (3RAC-SHAMU). Must-have to get the best out of the steering, specially with all the other steering upgrades. These 3Racing savers are much cheaper than Tamiya (51000) and work well. However, you have to put a 3mm spacer (0.2 or 0.3mm thickness will do) to lift the servo cap a little bit, otherwise the friction between the servo halves is too large and the servo won't center easily after a bump.
  • 5mm Shims - Tamiya 53587: Used to remove the last bit of slop in the suspension.
  • 3mm Shims - Tamiya 53585: Also used to remove the last bit of slop in the suspension.
  • 0.75mm Wheel Spacer - Tamiya 54573: Adds a little bit of width. Sometimes during parking-lot racing, if the car gets a bit upset during high-speed cornering and it hits minor bumps, it can roll. The extra width (even if it's minor) helps avoiding these. This only happens on very high-grip surfaces (concrete that has a sandpaper-like finish).
  • 22mm Low Friction Suspension Shafts - Tamiya 54395: They were cheap so I got them, not sure they add much.
  • 5mm Body Adjustment O-Ring - Tamiya 54384: My previous method to protect the body from scratching internally from the body clips involved cutting small foam pieces to put on top of the clip. These o-rings fulfill this function and save time.

Other mods and improvements:

  • Front stabilizer: Heard about this somewhere here on this forum. Adding a pair of turnbuckles that connect the front uprights to the bumper greatly removes slop. You have to be careful to adjust the turnbuckle length carefully to avoid introducing camber and friction inadvertently. The post at the bumper were sized so that the beams are horizontal when the suspension is pressed mid-way. This ensured friction was minimal across the suspension travel length.

FerrariF12-8.JPG.b7b35a9ac0e2d2d6ba00591096f611bf.JPG

  • Silicon tubes instead of body clips at the rear: Clips at the body post make it really cumbersome to fit through the cockpit tray. This can be worked-around by cutting larger holes on the cockpit tray where the clips can easily go through, but this doesn't look to good. My solution was to use silicone tubes (the ones used in fridge water lines) to set the body height. This keeps the hole in the cockpit tray small and at the same time protects the body since the tubes are soft. I wish the tubes were available in black color.
  • 2x 30mm Raspberri-Pi fans: One to cool the motor (tied to the heatsink) and a second one to cool the ESC (tied above the ESC, protected with a portion of part D8). These fans are low-speed, low-amp draw, low-cost and can take a beating. True, their airflow is not fantastic, but I find it is sufficient to keep the Super-Stock TZ running strong even in hot weather (30+ degC).

FerrariF12-10.JPG.dd4d00d043b1159ce8ae7b5e05818e3f.JPG

As a bonus I also got a set of Tamiya's 54874 Adjustable Upper arms to play around with camber settings. First I want to play around with the car as-is, to get a feel of the effects of the current hop-ups, before I install these.

This is a super helpful post to bring into context the effective vs the bling hop ups (so I thought I'd reply in the hope it enables me to find it again!). 

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TT-01E RWD Ford Capri Zakspeed Turbo

Ford-Zakspeed-Capri-41625.jpg

For some reason the Lancia Delta in Martini livery doesn't click with me. You might be asking yourself, what does this have to do with a Ford Capri? Well, two years ago I got a XV-01 Lancia Delta kit, which got built last year with a borrowed Toyota Celica shell from a TT-01E rally car. That rally chassis has been collecting dust in a corner ever since. After reading about one-way units here on the forum, I decided to resurrect this TT-01E chassis with a RWD conversion. The Ford Capri Zakspeed Turbo shell was pulled from the spare body shelf.

TT-01E RWD Chassis

Nothing really fancy on this build, except for the use of a flipped one-way unit on the front diff. This will allow to have the front wheels free-spinning on-power and have 4-wheel brake. I previously built a RWD TT-01E Countach but it did not have a front one-way unit. Instead the front diff was disconnected from the propeller shaft and locked. This really helped with the RWD on-power oversteer and made the car great to drive, with the only issue being braking at high speed. Only braking with the rear wheels made it impossible to break hard -anything other than a slight tap on the brake would ensure a spin.

Countach.JPG

Fast-forward to the current build and the idea is to solve the issue by introducing a flipped one-way unit into the front diff. The car will keep the propeller shaft. By "flipped" one-way unit, I mean that the one-way bearing will be placed in reverse. Normally one-way units deliver power forward, but not on reverse, which is the opposite of what I want to accomplish.

The build required removing all the grime from the earlier rally car and pretty much a complete teardown.

Parts used:

The kit was built stock except for:

  • Full ball bearings
  • Aluminum front uprights (these were added when the car was meant for rally to improve toughness)
  • Full turnbuckles
  • Wide rear axles
  • Rear toe-in uprights (53673), to give the car straight-line estability
  • Aluminum propeller shaft, I don't think it's needed but I had it already
  • Aluminum motor mount (53666), not needed but it was cheap
  • Adjustable upper arms (53674), to give the car as much rear grip as possible through negative camber
  • 4WD Front one-way unit (53200)
  • Gearbox joints (19805368), needed to fit the one-way
  • Drive shafts (50883), needed to fit the one-way
  • Wheel axles (50823), needed to fit the one-way
  • Low-Friction aluminum damper (53155)
  • 20T Axial motor (seems quite cheap-o) + heatsink + fan
  • 26T pinion + 55T spur for a 5.50 FDR
  • JX DC6015 servo
  • Tamiya HT servo saver
  • Quickrun 1060 ESC + fan
  • R203GF receiver + Futaba 3PL transmitter
  • Front 26mm slicks and rear wide 32mm slicks
  • Front brace mod

Build:

The key to the build was to flip the one-way diff unit, which pretty much involves putting the one-way bearing on the "wrong" flipped position.

4950344532001-2__08612.1557823624.jpg?c=

I was hoping that the flipped one-way would also lock the front differential both on-power and on-braking. It turns out it is only locked on-braking and it's completely loose on-power. I guess this would mean that the car will be less stable on-power (compared to having the idle lock diff as in the Countach) but will get very good stable 4WD braking as a trade-off.

Capri-2.JPG.95d57b280291c07bae1ad93444dbe219.JPG

Next step is to take it to the track and see how it performs :).

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Photo Shoot

The #2 Ford Capri Zakspeed Turbo was the winner of the DRM 1981 championship. Piloted by Klaus Ludwig:

Capri-1.JPG.3ddc70402bedbb23e01e8ee2099c4465.JPG

Capri-5.JPG.4b6deeaef154b3c99edaf3f7e2b2aa86.JPG

Capri-3.JPG.b055bc4864a460f6c0e54fde3210ba27.JPG

Capri-4.JPG.bcbaf66ca20f307d35e212423efbb7aa.JPG

Horrible weather today :( will have to postpone running the car.

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Looks awesome with Cockpit! I have a Mampe Capri project laying around. I should finish it :lol:

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F104-Pro2 Minardi M189

bb4d739cd7ae048d8e0e96f029a33d3b--minard

Minardi F1 cars perhaps were not very successful on the track but man are their liveries good-looking! Simple patterns with strong color contrast.

For this build I'll start with a Tamiya F104-Pro2 chassis, which is already loaded with hop-ups, and go with a livery inspired by the stunning Minardi M189.

F104-Pro2 Chassis

Parts used:

  • Kit: F104-Pro2 (58652)
  • Hop-ups:
    • F104 Aluminum Motor Mount (54166)
    • 3mm Thin Locknut (54155). Used to prevent loosening, replaced some regular 3mm nuts form the kit.
    • Driver racing helmet replaced with one from a Touring Car Cockpit Set (54298).
    • 3mm orings to act as body post cushions and protect the body. These posts are thinner than a touring car's, thus the usage of 3mm orings as opposed to 5mm.
  • Electronics:
    • Receiver: Futaba R203GF
    • Servo: Futaba S3004
    • ESC: Tamiya TBLE-04S
    • Motor: Silvercan (not included in kit)
  • Setup:
    • Ground clearance: highest possible front and rear (will be a street runner)
    • Tires: kit included
    • FDR: 3.72 (25T spur, 93T pinion)

Building the chassis was extremely quick. Very simple pancar layout and only one shock to go through. Quite enjoyable. A bit puzzled on why the motor mount was not included on this Pro chassis.

Minardi-05.JPG.66ae7d3f3b080f37f75030bcd189e1e5.JPG

Cable routing was tight but turned out great.

It seems scratching the belly of the chassis is frequent on pancars. To prevent this, some of that tough anti-slip sticker material normally used on floors was placed on the underside. The fact that it color-matches the livery is an added bonus :).

Minardi-06.JPG.5d1b30a7d8c796d1bbad386257f8f9e0.JPG

 

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F1 2017 Body

Martini-Minardi-Test-Hockenheim-20-21-Ju

The techniques used to mask the body were covered in an earlier post: Masking Tips

Getting that slim yellow line between the white and black sections was the most challenging part. Masking was done in sequence to achieve the following painting steps:

  1. Spray PS-6 Yellow
  2. Remove White masks
  3. Spray PS-1 White (to back yellow and paint white areas)
  4. Remove black masks
  5. Spray PS-5 Black (to back everything and paint black areas)

Minardi-00.JPG.7871a2617682f19a7c20011752c08270.JPG

Minardi-01.JPG

Final result with Tamiya stickers & sponsors applied. The black line between the front yellow and white areas is a thin sticker, same for the white line between the black and yellow area in the back.

Minardi-02.JPG

Panel lines were done with a black sharpie.

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6 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

 

Minardi-02.JPG

Beautiful. All the effort you put into the masking was well worth the time. 

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On 3/15/2023 at 9:40 PM, Aerobert said:

Beautiful. All the effort you put into the masking was well worth the time. 

Thanks mate! Best to spend extra 30 minutes masking than later many years of regret :)

Driver

The Minardi M189 was piloted by Pierluigi Martini for the 1989 Formula One season.

1990_GP_USA-pierluigi_Martini.jpg

I followed his helmet design fairly close, but with Tamiya sponsorships. Painting steps:

Driver Body:

  • Main colors painted internally with PS sprays along with body
  • Detailed with Vallejo acrylics externally
  • Lastly, coated with Vallejo matt varnish externally

Minardi-04.JPG.2e47038efa7da34d7361aa0f51776215.JPG

Minardi-08.JPG.654d3f42a23b3c37bd0f0b4c2647b537.JPG

Helmet:

  • Primed Tamiya white
  • All detailing done with Vallejo acrylics
  • Sealed with Tamiya TS-13 clear
  • Face coated with Vallejo matte varnish

Minardi-07.JPG

Minardi-09.JPG.2bc04ee76544e049881a76a21bff6ac8.JPG

Minardi-10.JPG.e4ee3cde833725af5f67ab6c28ffc764.JPG

Once the helmet is fitted, the driver looks a bit chibi-like with a large head compared with the body. Quite neat actually and a nice effect!

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I really like the use of the Tamiya logos to represent the helmet and seatbelt logos on the 1:1, great work on the car too!

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7 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Helmet:

  • Primed Tamiya white
  • All detailing done with Vallejo acrylics
  • Sealed with Tamiya TS-13 clear
  • Face coated with Vallejo matte varnish

The helmet is just...next level :O Amazing work sir.

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