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bavee

HW1060 going into limp mode

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Looking for advice here. I have two Tamiya DT-01's equipped with:
- Carson 3500mAh NiMH pack
- RC4WD 35T brushed motor
- Savox SW-0231MG servo
- Hobbywing QuicRun 1060 ESC
- Carson Reflex Wheel Start transmitter / receiver
- Tamiya connectors

Both cars switch to half speed at irregular intervals. Full or almost empty packs don't make a difference. Battery / motor/ ESC are not even warm.

Switching to reverse and then forward gives full speed again. Not for long however... This is really spoiling the fun for the 4yo and me.

Any idea where I'm looking at:
- Tamiya connectors wearing out?
- Adding a capacitor to the ESC?
- Low battery transmitter?

Or should I just upgrade to a 1080 ESC because there are so many dodge 1060 ESC's that no matter what I try I will end up with a new ESC?

Thanks in advance!

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I personally think the 1080 is so much better.

However, it might be worth checking that the jump plugs are actually set for NiMH running, because so many people use LiPo these days, they might have come plugged in ready for LiPo.

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Thanks for your reply! Cleaned both ESC's last week and checked the jumpers. They were and are set for NiMH.

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Hmmm, then that is a slightly odd one, a bad connection would just make it not work at all, a dry solder joint would most likely do the same, although might be worth checking anyway.

Unless you've just got unlucky and bought a couple of fake ESCs and they are junk?

Easily done to be honest.

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Bought them from a reputable reseller. Packaging looked genuine. I'm sure that when I contact them they will send me a new one as a replacement but I'm not sure it will solve the problem...

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Do you have any other basic motor or battery? Seems strange with both cars to do the same, but some troubleshooting of each thing is needed.

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Ahha!!!! I think I can answer this - a few of us have had the same problem and found the answer:

If you want to skip the conversation, just watch the vid here:

 

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10 minutes ago, jonboy1 said:

Ahha!!!! I think I can answer this - a few of us have had the same problem and found the answer:

 

I had came across quite a few stories like this one on various forums, which is why I am wary about getting a 1060 even though everyone say "just get it". I did order one for the 11.11 sales, will see how it goes with a 17T motor on its 12T claims.

A side not is a HW1040 ESC, with 40A also has a 12T limit, not sure how it works.

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1 hour ago, Alangt4 said:

Do you have any other basic motor or battery? Seems strange with both cars to do the same, but some troubleshooting of each thing is needed.

Before this we were running RC4WD 45T brushed and the same thing happened. Allthough it looks like it is getting worse...

1 hour ago, jonboy1 said:

Ahha!!!! I think I can answer this - a few of us have had the same problem and found the answer:

Did read that topic but to me it looked like there wasn't a definitive conclusion. But you did go for the capacitor fix and it did work for you?

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Thanks! Just read the other topic and that came to a conclusion ;). Ordered the capacitor set. Fingers crossed now.

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Hi @bavee   I have over twenty 1060’s in my line up and all of them run fine.  

I suggest temporarily changing your motor to a silver can and see if that makes a difference.   It sound like the motor is taking extra draw where it shouldn’t. 

I would also check your drive train for any binding.  

Hope you find the problem!  

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Thanks @Willy iine. I also thought these 1060's were bombproof. But look at how many people on only this forum are experiencing problems with them in the last couple of years...

No binding in the drivetrains. Spinning smoothly. 

Motors are new. But will check with a silvercan just to be sure.

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Mine turned out to be loose connections. Firstly the Tamiya battery connectors are often very loose on these ESCs out of the box, so you have to smash them with pliers (*just a little bit!) to close up the female ends so everything makes good contact inside. If that doesn't solve your problem, it could be the plug that goes in the receiver. I had to also tweak those inner metal pieces so they make good connection with the receiver pins. Worked like a charm for both my 1060s, and they're quite different setups. One is a brand new 17T motor, and I added a huge capacitor to try to fix this problem (which obviously didn't work). The other is still as standard as it came from the factory, no capacitor, running a very old Yokomo stock motor that has been heavily modified. Both were exhibiting the same issues--cutting down to low speed for seemingly no reason--but I've had no problems since I tweaked the connectors.

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Checked and cleaned all connections. Checked and cleaned everything in the drivetrain. Put in a silver can.

Still going into limp mode.

Soldered the capacitor set onto the ESC battery wires.

Still going into limp mode.

Changed the battery pack twice to rule out a bad pack.

Still going into limp mode. :(

Running out of ideas and thinking about switching to a Tamiya ESC... Positioned the antenna higher up in the tub as a last resort...

Problem solved. :D

Dang! So, I think the batteries in the transmitter are running low because this problem only turned up a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks for all your help. So glad this is solved!

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7 hours ago, bavee said:

Thanks for all your help. So glad this is solved!

Glad you were able to solve it! I have not bought another since the second one did the same thing as the first one. I still get annoyed when they dip to half speed, even if there's not actually a problem and it's just the battery going dead like usual :unsure:

None of my ESCs of other brands have this problem, because I don't think they have limp mode. Might have to update the decals on my Grasshopper to say Anything But Hobbywing!

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On 11/22/2021 at 1:13 AM, bavee said:

You've got the HW-decals so I would say: Go for it!

Stickers are removed/replaced, and both ESCs will be too (eventually).

After all the limp mode issues, and after driving with them for over a year, I'm done with Hobbywing!

Full throttle should not be nearly 50% of the entire throttle range.

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2 hours ago, El Gecko said:

Stickers are removed/replaced, and both ESCs will be too (eventually).

Full throttle should not be nearly 50% of the entire throttle range.

Pretty sure the stickers are the cause of all your problems. (joke) 

Re the full throttle thing, set your EPA. I just talked about this in another thread. This full throttle @ just over 50% thing is quite common with all non calibratable ESCs. I have a 1040 that full throttled at 54%.

 

 

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6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Pretty sure the stickers are the cause of all your problems. (joke) 

Re the full throttle thing, set your EPA. I just talked about this in another thread. This full throttle @ just over 50% thing is quite common with all non calibratable ESCs. I have a 1040 that full throttled at 54%.

:lol: well I've removed all the Hobbywing stickers and sure enough the car is running great now!

Unfortunately my Tx doesn't have EPA :(

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Power cap is not always a garauntee to ending limp mode, ive capped 3 1060s and only it only sorted 1 out. I always go 1080 or Etronix Probe WP now.

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