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[alvinlwh]

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[Albert Attaboy]

Blue threadlock!

[hIghQ]

Depends on the wheelnut used... some are better, some are worse, some are wider, some narrower, some use nylon, some are serrated, some use both. Also, the wheel itself can be a factor with wheelnuts coming loose - if the hex part of the rim is worn too much, even very good wheelnuts (properly tightened) cannot hold the wheel anymore (=time to get new wheels).

[alvinlwh]

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[El Gecko]

31 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I know the obvious answer is to use smaller hex

Wouldn't the obvious answer be to snug them up a bit or torque them down harder?

I don't use threadlock and some of mine have even lost their nylock.

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[hIghQ]

4 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I think the serrated part is my answer. The ones I am using are smooth aluminium after market ones and they must be too smooth. The rims are brand new and fits properly so I don't think they are the issue. As for wider/narrower/thicker/thinner, I thought all M5 (5 if I am not wrong) locking fledged lock nuts are all of the same size? At least I when I try to search for thinner nuts, never found any. 

I only know of M4 being used on 1/10 scale (usually - there may of course be exceptions). And no, nuts can be narrower, too (which is not a bad thing, by the way) but the narrower ones tend to be serrated only (no nylon lock-nuts). My favorites for off-road are the narrow Yokomo ZC-N4FLT wheel nuts.

[alvinlwh]

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[simalarion]

M4 Nylon Nutlock screws on Ali works for me, but you will need to tighten them ofc because it should not be a problem with stocklocknuts either(?)

Edit: Oh yes i bought sveral colours so i could change them after my mood

Every parcel i have from Asia is stuck at the moment though, some has been freezed since 26.Oct in Hong Kong

 

[alvinlwh]

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[Frog Jumper]

My attempt to solve the same problem on my Dragon.  Blew off a rear right tire this weekend. Lost the Tamiya hex and pin.  I thought the Tamiya hexes were too thick (5mm) so I bought the 4mm. Just so happened they arrived today in the mail.  One is installed already with my old wheel nuts and it’s a definite improvement.  New wheel nuts courtesy of my LHS, I’ll fit these instead I think…

 

[alvinlwh]

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[Frog Jumper]

I found some extensions.  I’ll play with them tonight and snap some pix for you…

[magpie]

hello

put nylon side on first,back to front.

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[magpie]

just use plain non flanged m4 nylon other way,hard to start thread but nylon at front.

[alvinlwh]

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[Sir Crashalot]

[OoALEJOoO]

4 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

These? 

They are even worse for unwinding themselves. I had them coming off every single time I used the car I had them on. 

That's a bit odd. I've run adaptors like that for a long time and they have never come loose. Recently hiked 15+ Km with a CC02 using adaptors and no issues. Maybe I'm just lucky but I can't recall having issues on the standard kit nuts either.

Throwing some thoughts/ideas:

• Perhaps the nuts do appear tight, but the pin is not properly set into the hex. After you drive a bit, the pin sets (sinks into the hex) and then torque on the nut is lost.
• Excessive vibration on that particular wheel.
• Greasy nut/stud? (not sure how much effect this would have).

[InsaneJim69]

2 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

That's a bit odd. I've run adaptors like that for a long time and they have never come loose. Recently hiked 15+ Km with a CC02 using adaptors and no issues. Maybe I'm just lucky but I can't recall having issues on the standard kit nuts either.

Throwing some thoughts/ideas:

• Perhaps the nuts do appear tight, but the pin is not properly set into the hex. After you drive a bit, the pin sets (sinks into the hex) and then torque on the nut is lost.
• Excessive vibration on that particular wheel.
• Greasy nut/stud? (not sure how much effect this would have).

Have these extenders on my CEN monster truck using a 5.5T brushless motor and never had a single issue, and boy does it get some abuse 😂😂👍

James.

[nbTMM]

Serrated are best but will chew up the plastic wheel over time every time you take them on/off. Nyloc nuts work well when new, but over time the nylon bushing wears so they eventually lose their grip. If you're using thick hexes the threaded axle may not even reach the nylon part so your only choice is to use serrated nuts or find shafts which have a longer thread. The nuts don't have to be RC-car specific. As above 1/10 RC cars are generally M4 nuts. Generic M4 serrated stainless steel nuts will work perfectly to hold on the wheels and are usually lower profile and may engage more threads than RC car specific aluminium nyloc nuts

Whatever arrangement you use some threadlock like loctite 243 will help keep them on. Also if you put two tamiya spanners/wrenches together that will give you more leverage to really tighten up the nut. Do a spanner check after each run to check they are still tight.

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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