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GermanTA03Guy

TA03 Madness continues - PORSCHE Edition

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This build will eventually be a "double build" with one show body and one race body... Representing the best of the best of Porsche in my opinion - which means two kinds of 993. You might know what I'm talking about already :). Being a ta03 build, the title Porsche automatically defines it is a ta03rs build. It is inspired by two things: 1. TRF and 2.Kuhfarben (aka Truck Norris).  So let's jump right in. A wise man once said that a good TC build starts with the wheels (was it wtcc5?) :

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Next up... Carbon... Which will be protected a little... Its not going to be a shelf queen but treated with care. 

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Funny that you can still see the shading from the packaging... The top deck lay on top of the lower deck and like this it was sitting in a hobby shop in Sicily, Italy, for decades until I got it :)IMG_20211120_141352.jpg

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Anything touring gets a thumbs up from me 👍👍👍

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, GermanTA03Guy said:

If you've, like me, ever wondered what looks better, here's the difference between the look of the insert with a) ts21 gold with molotow chrome lip and b) ps gold and no lip... 

 

... Isn't this The mother of all racing wheels :)? IMG_20211120_151241.jpg

They look awesome! For the chrome you use what product exactly?

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Hi, thanks! I'm also quite happy with the chrome pen. It's the molotow liquid Ch Rome marker, 2mm. A bit fiddly to get in the grooves, but amazing results.. 

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.. So, the ta03 perfect guide states a slightly rearward weight bias for the ta03rs... Enough justification for the 53219 lightweight diff pressure plates and 53124 tungsten carbide balls for the rear... 

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.. Some goodies for the rear... Can't resist those nice hub carriers.. Although they're probably heavier and can't use the titanium hinge pins I use in the rest of the build... 

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By the way... Motor choice : I want no maintenance, so THIS build will be brushless... (next one is old-school period correct brushed)... My combo of choice is the Carson dragster 3. Why?

1. It is the official Tamiya eurocup combo. I started in the euro cup with my ta03 in 1999. 

2. I like the look of it. Black, no ugly design features, black cables, plugs on the motor housing integrated (no ugly solder points). 

3. I tried it and although it's sensorless, I haven't had any clogging ever. 

4. Its quite a budget combo, but still in terms of Tamiya racing top of the line (as it's mandatory by the rules) 

5. I like the simple but existing programming features of the (hobbywing, by the switch you can see it's OEM hobbywing) Esc. 

6. If they race it in the euro cup, that means it's proven. 

 

It is not soo fast (this one 16t, but I have 14, 12, 10 and 8, too) as I'm also after enjoying the scale side of racing and not necessarily the ridiculously fast one... Still some punch though... 

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Looks great, also, I wondered where the blue motor plate was supposed to sit. That makes sense now.

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13 hours ago, GermanTA03Guy said:

.. So, the ta03 perfect guide states a slightly rearward weight bias for the ta03rs...

The overview of the weight bias includes also the batteries…I don’t think they considered in the 90s (release of this magazine/overview) the use of LiPo‘s or NiMh‘s?

In case of use of these lighter battery types, you have to recalculate the weight bias.

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1 hour ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

The overview of the weight bias includes also the batteries…I don’t think they considered in the 90s (release of this magazine/overview) the use of LiPo‘s or NiMh‘s?

In case of use of these lighter battery types, you have to recalculate the weight bias.

Hi, yes that's what I thought too. But it must make the weight bias even more unequal. I find this really interesting and would love to measure it, but then I don't want to spend a small fortune on rc scales... And also I won't stick to the "making the rear light" so strictly, otherwise I'd put alloy turnbuckles and ti screws in the rear, and not put the alloy hub carriers in the rear. Those are all things I'm not going to do. And in the end, who knows, maybe a slight rear weight bias makes the chassis handle better, as the short wheelbase doesn't cope well with a 50 50 balance (too easy to spin then maybe?) Would be nice to find out in testing, but I probably won't go through that ;) anyone know the weight biases of various real 911s? 

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9 hours ago, Toad16v said:

Looks great, also, I wondered where the blue motor plate was supposed to sit. That makes sense now.

Yes I think that's the one heat plate that makes a little sense. It's better than mounting the motor directly on the plastic I think. if you don't have that part, you can to put a 2nd pinion side style piece on the inside, which is what I used to so. It's not the intended place for that part though, so it is a lot more fiddly to put the motor in like that, and on a brushed one even more so (as they are not flat around the drive Shaft and that geometry gets stuck in the middle). And it keeps falling out. Thanks to the help of a fellow tc member I could get hold of this :)

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The other heat sink doesn't make sense in my opinion when it's about cooling. It does make sense when it's about secure motor mounting or pure looks. See the difference of the include motor mounting plate :

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