Hex on a DT-02 front

[alvinlwh 5895]

There are many ways to put hex on the front wheels of a DT-02 but the hex adaptor is not one of them. So messing around with what I have, I came up with this idea. I am pretty sure there are many other ways, but this is how I do it.

As requested, @Oh How Original you are tagged.

First item in the list is from the M-05Ra kit (go download a manual) and second are hop up part numbers. Why M-05Ra? It will become clear later.

What I used.

Front uprights: F11 & F12 or 54177
Axle: BA11 (x2) or 54183
King pin: BA22 (x4) or 54237
C-hub: F1 (x2)
Bearings: 1150 (x4) or 1050 (x4) if using 54177
Shaft: 3x22mm shaft (x2) from 54395
Turnbuckle: To replace upper arm, either from 53828 or make your own
5mm ball: BA23 (x4) or BA19 (x4)
Spacer: 53539 will be handy
Note: You can get all the F parts required by just ordering 51425

Picture of most (but not all) of the parts.

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

The first part of this guide maybe a bit messy as I am taking pictures, measuring and making notes as I go. I will post the second part (the other side) ASAP but I suddenly felt really ill so may not proceed with more work tonight.

Step 1 - Remove the old wheels (obviously) 

Step 2 - Remove top arm

Step 3 - Make hole 3mm

The problem is the top (soon to be bottom) of F1 is meant for tapping screws, so they are very slightly smaller than 3mm. Open them up with a 3mm drill.

Step 4 - Install using the bottom hole (remember, this part is flipped) of F1 to the bottom arm. Picture is wrong, see later pictures.

Step 5 - Install spacer

Here you see that there is a gap, 2.77mm to be precise. You can fill the space up using whatever combo of spacer from the 53539 set. I just push the hub all the way front by installing a 2.5mm silver spacer at the rear. I secured the whole setup using a 3x22mm shaft from 54395.

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

Check time.

As can be seen, the new axle sits somewhat higher than the old, I measured it out to be appx 8mm difference, meaning the front of the car will sit 8mm lower than before. Bare this in mind if you go down this route.

[alvinlwh 5895]

Step 6 - Build up front uprights

Build up F11 & 12 as shown.

Step 7 - Fit upright to c-hub

Fit F11/12 to F1 using BA22 king pins. Note that the steering arm on stock setting is way too short.

 

Step 8 - Install upper arm

There is no way the old upper arm will fit over the new F1 piece without cutting, so I will be using parts from 53828 instead.

Instructions calls for the spacing to be set at 33mm and that works ok as lower arm remains the same length, but see below. Also, note which hole on F1 the ball is installed on!

Step 9 - Steering arm

Instructions call for 75mm, which will result in a lot of toe out (could be what you want), at the moment, for almost close to straight, I have to set it at 77mm. The beauty of turnbuckle set is easy to adjust and set.

Sorry, forgot pictures for this step, but see below.

[BuggyDad 4477]

Watching with interest since I'm most of the way down a different track to achieving essentially the same end.

Why did you need to flip the c hub resulting in the 8mm height issue?

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

Check time

Why install using the 2 holes on F1 closer to the axle? In fact, why use the M-05Ra parts instead of M-05. Let me show you what happens when installed into "paired" holes and the M-05 only got one set of holes.

If installed using the matching bottom holes of F1 (part is flipped remember!), you can clearly see that the top and bottom arms are not parallel at all.

And under compression using the above holes, serious camber change like a Lunchbox.

However, compression using the 2 closer holes Yes, there are sill camber change, but not as bad as above.

So there you go, the reason for choosing M-05Ra part and using those holes as I did.

[alvinlwh 5895]

13 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

Watching with interest since I'm most of the way down a different track to achieving essentially the same end.

Why did you need to flip the c hub resulting in the 8mm height issue?

 

Suggest you come back later as I am making edits through the posts and information will change.

I have a M-05Ra, I have the parts on hand, I did the measurements and this will work. I do not want to go off buying random parts that I do not know the measurements of and risk them not fitting -OR- on some of the guides, have to cut/grind parts. Cannot be ar-ed to when this is mostly a drop in fit other that opening up the top holes of F1. Not flipping it means I have to chop something as it will not fit into the lower arm.

EDIT: The lower part of F1 is 12.1mm whereas the "fork" of the D1 are 10.94mm, meaning I got 1.16mm of material to remove.

[alvinlwh 5895]

Step 10 - Attaching wheels and Check time

I will be using a 4mm locking hex that I happen to have.

The the fronts, I will be using Ballastic Buggy's BBT50 Cut Rib white compound on Team Racing front rims. Annoyingly, there are 2 widths for the front of 2WD even when they are labelled slim.

Top down view of old vs new. I measured the new wheels to be about 10mm further out than the old. Perhaps I can move the tyre in on the front wheel to regain the 10mm.  But seriously thought, it should make the care more stable and reduce/remove the risk of traction roll if I decided to put a stupid motor in.

Ok, that's it for tonight, feeling really ill. Off to get some rest. Hopefully can finish the other side tomorrow.

EDIT: Just realised I should also have a front view of new vs old, well, tomorrow then. 

[Frog Jumper 3663]

Nice tink!

[Nobbi1977 1793]

Nice guide. 

[sosidge 624]

Sorry but 8mm change in hub height will totally mess up the suspension geometry. As will an extra 10mm track width. I would not recommend this modification at all.

The Tamiya bearing wheels work and come in sizes suitable for modern tyres.

[alvinlwh 5895]

Right, feeling better today so onto the next wheel, and hopefully, better step by step.

Step 1 - Remove upper arm E1

Step 2 - Remove existing axle

Step 3 - Build up front axle as shown

Note the position of ball screws.

Step 4 - Install to lower arm D1 using a 3x22mm shaft and fill out the space using 2.5mm worth of spacers

Step 5 - Build up turnbuckle upper arm

The suggested 33mm is fine for a start.

Step 6 - Install turnbuckle upper arm

Step 7 - Build up turnbuckle steering arm

I suggest setting at around 54mm to start with.

Step 8 - Install turnbuckle steering arm

Step 9 - Install drive pin, hex and wheel

Done.

[alvinlwh 5895]

As pointed out, the suspension is going to be messed up and that is true. The front now sits too low with the springs not able to provide the "lift".

To fix this, I installed the thickest preload collar. Problem solved, clearance restored.

[alvinlwh 5895]

Took it out for a trim run on my usual proving ground.

Needed 2 "clicks" of trim to the left.

Steering arm adjusted to remove the trim required. Took it out for a proper test run. Handles perfect on loose gravel and uneven ground. Very stable yet snappy steering. Absolutely no traction roll at all. Looking forward to summer to be able to take it to the beach. 

[Busdriver 6209]

Been re reading this thread as I too am trying to fit a Hex wheel to a bearing axle. I am using the Fastrax wheel bearing adapter. I am basically sacrificing 2 old CC01 wheels to try the concept. Ultimately my process will result in an unreversable conversation but as these wheels have spent the last two years under my bed. When I’ve finished if successful or not I will post.

 

whilst re reading the post I have a question for you @alvinlwh and that is you seem to have part of the rim with no tyre on it?  ie the tyre is too narrow for the rim. Why and how does it stay on???

[alvinlwh 5895]

58 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

whilst re reading the post I have a question for you @alvinlwh and that is you seem to have part of the rim with no tyre on it?  ie the tyre is too narrow for the rim. Why and how does it stay on???

All explained here, but yes, turns out that there are 2 different width for 2WD fronts and I got a wide wheel with narrow tyre. 🙄

 

[Carmine A 2046]

On 11/29/2021 at 3:25 PM, alvinlwh said:

I have a M-05Ra, I have the parts on hand, I did the measurements and this will work. I do not want to go off buying random parts that I do not know the measurements of and risk them not fitting -OR- on some of the guides, have to cut/grind parts. Cannot be ar-ed to when this is mostly a drop in fit other that opening up the top holes of F1. Not flipping it means I have to chop something as it will not fit into the lower arm.

EDIT: The lower part of F1 is 12.1mm whereas the "fork" of the D1 are 10.94mm, meaning I got 1.16mm of material to remove.

Thank YOU!!  Simple, elegant, cheap, available! Absolutely doing this to me 'Oliday Buggy!