silvertriple 4121 Posted February 13, 2022 Print was launched yesterday and did last about 21 hours. I was a bit impatient to try out. I let you judge of the trick... I still have a minor change to do on the rear wheel (may be i'm a bit perfectionist), and it will be time to call it done (at least this is my hope ) 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goudar 526 Posted February 13, 2022 Nice result there, did you plan to add your model on Shapeways ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted February 13, 2022 3 minutes ago, Goudar said: Nice result there, did you plan to add your model on Shapeways ? Usually, I push my stls on Thingiverse (silvertriple). I'm considering this here as well, although this was a huge work to get there... I do not intend to do business from this. And as for Shapeways, I'm not too fan of their expensive costs. Prints are more expensive than most of others printing online services (for the same quality)... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kol__ 3909 Posted February 13, 2022 On 2/12/2022 at 10:43 AM, silvertriple said: Well, I almost started from scratch with Fusion360 when doing this, so it increased a lot the time I spent on this... It's few evenings I spent on this during those last two weeks (I stopped counted time, and did restart my work at some point as I completely messed up in Fusion 360 and it was much better to work this out from scratch). But I would say the design of each wheel was about 3 hours each when I decided to redo it from scratch... Then the tweaking is requiring prints, and prints are material and printing time... For yesterday's print, the four wheels is about 120 g of PLA+ including supports, and the cost of 1kg of filament is about 25€... So, in terms of material, it is less than 5 euros, and in terms of printing time it is about 24 hours... Wow mate, so a fair bit of time and skill to draw it all up, but not much material cost to print. I know next to nothing about 3D printing and this probably isn't really the place to ask, but what sort of kit do you use to do this and what sort of investment are we talking about financially? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted February 13, 2022 14 minutes ago, Kol__ said: Wow mate, so a fair bit of time and skill to draw it all up, but not much material cost to print. I know next to nothing about 3D printing and this probably isn't really the place to ask, but what sort of kit do you use to do this and what sort of investment are we talking about financially? Well, I have a Creality Ender 5 Plus 3D printer. It has quite a big bed, as I wanted to be able to print big parts (it's probably oversized and it was about 450€). You may find printers for the price of a Tamiya kit (let's say 200-250 euros) with a decent printing quality and able to do a limited range of materials (but enough for key elements). Now, let's be clear, there is a huge learning curve about that. Make sure you choose a printer with a good community of users, with forums and groups which are of help to support in case you have an issue... It is definitely better to have someone to help with the rough start, so if you know someone who can help to start with, it's better. And for designing parts, both Tinkercad or Fusion360 are allowing free usage for personal use, and the first one is really easy to deal with for a start (Fusion360 has a bigger learning curve and will require an heavy time investment).... Hope it helps... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kol__ 3909 Posted February 13, 2022 Thanks @silvertriple, that certainly does help. Something for the future for me I think, cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted February 13, 2022 The print is done and tested, and it's now final. Remain to extract the stl files for some of the wheels defined, in both friction and hex driver, and with some variant of size and number of spokes, and I'll upload them on Thingiverse at some point... But not now. I'm exhausted 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted February 14, 2022 Milestone!!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5247223 A universe of rims for the Samurai is on thingiverse... Enjoy ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted February 20, 2022 As @Ray_ve mentioned he was missing the G55 spacer for his Samurai, I took it from the box, modelled it and published it on Thingiverse... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5254556 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted March 9, 2022 As mentioned in the postman thread, I got a third Samurai today It was in France, it was published on a picture on a group by the owner with the question about what it was... I had a chat with the guy, and he asked me what would be the value of it. I gave him the honest value, based on the pictures. My estimation was later on confirmed by some people who did not saw the exchange in the comments of the picture itself. The guy asked me if I was interested, and I could not say I was not. I told him I would buy it if I could, but unfortunately timing was bad for me... The guy asked about the good timing, and I told him March... And then it happened about one month later.... Marks of use underside, but beside this it is in very good shape. One of the rims has lost part of the chroming, but beside this they are nice... Complete, no missing parts. A good cleaning required... = The Samurai have always been one my favorite cars, if not my favorite. And like the Hunter, it takes a very specific place here... And for the two other warriors that arrived today, I'll open a single thread when it will be time to start to work on them... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 3, 2022 While not having the ball bearings to start to build one a Samurai, it did not prevent me to work on the Samurai project... I wanted to order wheels sls printed from one of the Asian providers which have currently a very interesting discount for first orders. The Samurai wheel set alone did not make the full cut of the discount. I decided to design a wing with Nylon SLS printing in mind (among the Samurais I got, 2 of them are complete with nice bodies, but the wings did not survive - I have to do something for my runner). Once done, I ordered the wheels and wing in white SLS and can't wait to see the parts arriving. While having 2 Samurai side by side, I took a picture of a difference I noticed One of the gearbox is having a opening and a red door while the other one is not having anything. I remember one press article from a magazine in which they do advise to do a hole to ease the motor pinion change on the field. I believe the Samurai with the gearbox without opening is from a first generation while the second one from the iteration that followed (in which they took the feedback from the owners on the race field). This is quite interesting as it shows that Marui was taking customers feedbacks and doing something with it (there is other small/minor improvement made within the Marui cars that are interesting to see). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 9, 2022 When I teared down to parts my first Samurai, I put all the parts in a box without cleaning them as it was late that day, and I did not have a chance to clean them up until today... At that time I did not even too the time to completely unbuilt it: the front diff was still assembled and there is few parts in the rear gearbox still together (I did not remove the e-clips), and I needed to remove the white parts from the front arms... I tackled the front diff first... Removing the screws is easy. Removing the metal bevel gear is easy on one of the side, but not on the second side. I took paper clips, folded them, and let's try... By little steps, I succeed to get it out while killing two paper clips (need to think about a better solution for the other Samurais, as it is needed to do this in order to place ball bearings). Then I took care of the front arms before putting them in the WD40 bath with the other parts... Those clips are also difficult to remove (if anyone have an easy solution for this, I'm interested). Anyway, parts are happily in the bath now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 9, 2022 I did some measurements, and get into Fusion360 to build a tool to ease the extraction of the bevel gear from the front differential... I'm going to print it and try :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 9, 2022 Printed in 0.2 mm/layer... Not perfect yet, let's be clear, but... I you have ideas to make it better, do not hesitate to tell me :-) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 9, 2022 Toric joints are an issue for both Samurai and the Nichimo... Not sure where to find them yet: - Internal diameter 8, external diameter 10, Tore diameter 1 (3 per Samurai, 2 for the Nichimo) - Internal diameter 10, external diameter 12, Tore diameter 1 (1 for the Nichimo) EDIT : Found on Amazon, will probably have enough for the next 10 years 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 9, 2022 I did rework my tweezer for bevel gear, and it works like a charm now... I just put it in Thingiverse. It was a 4 minutes print (from the time it started to print) on layer size 0.12. It may not last more than 1 or 2 extractions, but I believe it will take less time to print it and to try this way than to do it with a paper clip folded like I did, which does not allow to pull it from both sides... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5347369 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 10, 2022 Did progress on the Samurai N°1 clean up... At the end here is what I have on the table I think I know now the reason why the front middle bulkhead was broken : there was a heavy collision at the left side - the left bottom arm is bended Over the last few months, I accumulated quite a few Samurai parts, including a chassis from Dadio Designs and one from @optimaforever, and two complete cars in running state, with some cleanup required. The plan is to start the build of the N°1 based on the Optima House chassis. It will include both front and rear gearboxes from Optima House. I hope Dadio won't mind, but the time of his chassis will come, but with the white chassis, it gives opportunity the black chassis doesn't, and I will probably have to consider additional white parts to go with it (not that I want it white, but I'm thinking of dyeing the whole set of part in a particular color). Stay tuned, hopefully, I will be able to move a lot of things within the next few weeks 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 11, 2022 Yesterday, after having dealt with the cleaning, I had some time... But I didn't want to start the Samurai build as I'm still awaiting few bits to appear on a picture before starting the built. They are expecting to show up soon, but never soon enough. I decided to start modeling the Samurai. Rims and Wing are already done. I decided to start by the roll cage. Unlike the chassis, at least there is some symmetry, but it is not that easy as the bars are not all in the same plan. There might be something like a subtle degree deviation from the front bar compared to the plan between the top and rear bar. One of my friend says measurement is hard, I decided to experiment somehow. First I decided to measure the distance between the braces, and to set them on a component called Middle plane, which is just purposed to help building the roll cage... From there, it was easy to define the distance between the roll cage and the middle plan component as the brace is easy to measure. I then set a pipe with two sketchs to join my bodies. next was to add the body mount, wing and roof support. It actually went quicker than I expected for that part. And it was very easy to add the mirror to complete this This morning, my doctor decided to put me on sick leave for some analysis as I had stomach pain for the last few days. Part of the morning was in the laboratory to do some blood tests and other analysis, and the rest was at home to wait for the results. My stomach pain is still there, but I can't help doing something, so opened Fusion 360 to get to think about something else than my pain (trust it or not, this treatment seems to work for me). I continued on the roll cage modeling. The rear part was done in two sketches (yeah, trying to do as much as I can in reduced number of sketches). A bit later I had this ... and this As I had the wing modeled already, I thought it could make sense to try it to check my measurements and design (I did not used it to set the wing support...) It doesn't look bad :-) I added the roof on top of the roll cage. And did the Nerf bars as well... I got hints that Samurai is probably the hardest chassis to model, and I assume the chassis will be more difficult. I intend to model it like I did the Nichimo, just because it is fun to do it, and will probably save me some money because with the time I'll take to do it, I won't build new kits :-) (and I have other reasons, but you'll be discovering those in proper times if ever I can actually do what I'm thinking about)... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2437 Posted April 11, 2022 Awesome work . You could re-make a Samurai in the end 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 11, 2022 After my last post, I decided to start working on the gearbox. I already have 2 new gearbox from Optima House for my Samurai, so this is clearly only for the fun (or maybe because I need at least one motor plate :-) ) I decided to do things in proper order this time (doing things in the proper sequence will allow to gain some time compared to what I did for the Nichimo). So the motor plate comes first. And yes, I used this trick today. Very easy to see the parallels and perpendicularities with this trick I decided to start by the elements which were the most obvious on the gearbox plate. Then I used a simple way to define the rest: triangulation. Define each center of holes by two other centers distances. I did size the thing on my 4K screen so it looks the same size as in reality, making easy check that everything is right. It looks a bit complex, there is a lot of measurements, but that's it... And I have my motor plate... (this si not a scan, this is the virtual thing :-D) 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 12, 2022 Had this gearbox sitting on my desk this morning... First thing I did was to put gears inside to observe how it is made. And yes, some of the gears here are not from a Samurai (Artistocarft Dolphin/Kangaroo - thanks Dadio Designs for the hints): they are the same size (had to check :-) ) Then I opened Fusion360, and started the left gearbox, with a sketch based on the motor plate. Observation shows that you need a shell in order to do one of the part, and that part has some elements which are based on a revolve. I started by the part which required the revolve, then did the shell, and then proceed to the extrusions to get the top profile... Once down, direction the back face to proceed to another sketch for the inside extrusions... Last difficulty was the external finition. I proceeded with a sketch to add the ribs, but extruded onto a new body, so I could do a revolve to remove part of it, before combining with the rest... Then I took the right half of the gearbox. Trust me or not, it becomes easy to see how to proceed when you face a part after few complex parts. I used the same approach than for the left side... First define the sketch, then proceed to take each part to the external dimension by extrusion, then take care of the internals and finalise with the ribs... I then had the two halves done. I did add a hole to be able to set the pinion easily. It was something mentioned in a track test from Model Cars in July 1986 (https://www.overrc.com/vintage/documentation/archives-de-mike/Mauri%20Samurai%20MC%20Track%20Test.pdf - overrc.com Later on Marui added a hole and a cover. The broken gearbox I used for this work was a V2, and there is no trace of the red cover. Last was to take care of the pinion cover... And compare to the rest, that was super easy. I did not add the "Marui" mention on it. I'll do it at some point eventually. It's a nice piece 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2437 Posted April 12, 2022 Very professional - looks excellent , as is all of your work 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 13, 2022 This morning, I got a delivery from an Asian 3D Printer... I decided to do this order as they had an anniversary promotion for the first order for new customers: 40 USD discount whatever ordered, and 9.90 USD for the shipping. I wanted nice and solid wheels for the Samurai, that was a good opportunity to get them (and to test as well this provider), but it did not used the full of the discount. I modeled the wing just for that reason. It arrived this morning (quite fast, actually, as ordered Monday last week). I have good reasons to think the wheel will fit (no risk, it's a known stl I already printed myself). But I never printed the wing to test before ordering the print... I did not even wait the end of my day to have a check. Got one of the chassis on my desk, removed the wing, and put the printed wing... Yeahhh, it fits directly, no modification needed :-D Beside this, I took the time yesterday evening after my previous post to look into detail to the chassis frames of the Samurai. I also took pictures this morning... And in my head a plan is forming. I will tell more about it once I start the real work. Stay tuned 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 4121 Posted April 13, 2022 I had another delivery for today, related to both Samurais and Nichimo projects... I should have enough O-rings for the next 10 years, probably I started to work on my plan for the chassis frames. Here is a quick summary on the way I intend to proceed 1. I designed elements I will print in order to ease the measurements of those things. It should also help me to spot asymmetry if there is on the elements I'm not necessarily suspect some... I measured all the braces, and elements joining the two chassis parts, created a brace corresponding, with a recess where to put my caliper. The recess should also give a good indication for any deviation from the symmetry. the brace is designed to be oriented according to the measurement needed. I'll print those, probably tomorrow evenning or Friday morning. 2. The plan is to define the distances between the key holes joining the chassis frames by triangulation. There is others holes, but we need to position the key fixations first. 3. I would then proceed the same way as I did with the roll cage : define a middle plan component, with the holes, and define the profile of the chassis there. 4. For each side of the chassis, work from a projection of the middle plane component. Last element : this is a plan. A plan is a forecast. And like the weather forecast, a plan change. The only difference is that the plan will change based on my own willing 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
