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LEE71

TF Evo rere for Christmas

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OH has got me a Top Force Evo for Christmas. I'm not allowed to even open it until the big day but I'm planning ahead to assemble some bits for a Christmas build. I'm still newly back to RC so looking for advice after recently building a Hotshot rere. 

Will I need the uprated plastic gear set and which one?

Also glue has been mentioned for diff assembly. Which glue?

Hoping to get my first brushless, any recommendations suitable? Should I stick with Tamiya?

 

Sorry for the newby q's!

 

 

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Cheers Sir!

Just normal UK Superglue then. Assume there's no disassembly issues using that? 

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Great kit! I don't have an Evo but have a TF which is getting close to the Evo.

I used shoogu as the glue for the diffs. Its held up so far.

Brushless, don't buy Tamiya as its expensive and old tech now. It really depends on what gearing you will run. I think the TF can run an 8.5T motor fine as it handles well, but this is a fast motor and will mean more wear and breakages. If you buy the high speed gearset then you can a higher turn motor which may be bettter?

I like the SkyRC TS120 ESC and Surpass Rocket motors as good bang for buck

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Cheers Jonathan.

Interesting about Tamiya motors.  I probably would have bought one just to keep the brand.

I'm hoping the ESC will handle brushless. Assuming it's a TBLE 04.

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10 hours ago, LEE71 said:

Cheers Jonathan.

Interesting about Tamiya motors.  I probably would have bought one just to keep the brand.

I'm hoping the ESC will handle brushless. Assuming it's a TBLE 04.

If it comes with an ESC it should be capable of brushless motors. I would buy an older cheaper 13.5T (Trackstar, Surpass Rocket V3, Speed Passion etc) and the biggest pinion you can fit with the stock spur. It should run well

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On 12/16/2021 at 9:13 AM, LEE71 said:

Cheers Sir!

Just normal UK Superglue then. Assume there's no disassembly issues using that? 

I wouldn't be putting superglue anywhere near the diff. Rubber cement (shoe-goo is similar) is what they usually recommend to hold the outdrives in place.

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Yeah Rubber cement or even thread lock is good for the  evo diff out drives, they just need kept in place. They are much more durable diffs than the normal cast top force ones.

you can run one of the Tamiya or other brushless like a 13.5 with the supplied esc. No need to go super fast with hot motors. It’s interesting to see how fast they go and then that’s it really.

don’t forget to get a steel pinion!

enjoy its a great handling and driving car

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On 12/17/2021 at 11:41 AM, LEE71 said:

Cheers Jonathan.

Interesting about Tamiya motors.  I probably would have bought one just to keep the brand.

I'm hoping the ESC will handle brushless. Assuming it's a TBLE 04.

If you are going to take it racing than yes there are better brushless out there if you want the best of the best. Tamiya Brushless is fine for club level if you want to keep it all Tamiya, just pricy. I purchased the Tamiya 10.5 brushless for mine. Will combine with the speed tune set , TA02 plastic gears, and aluminum motor mount. Good luck! They are fun builds!

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On this topics of TF Evo upgrades am curious to understand what TRF / Hop Up options there are for this car. Been looking on the site but can’t seem to find a specific list. Any pointers would be great. 
 

I see that Yeah Racing have aluminium blue upgrades. Regarding this car are there any worthwhile upgrades and ones to steer clear from?

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The car really doesn’t need much…it’s a great performer bar large jumps.

-steel pinion

- alloy motor mount

 are both essential

- you then may change front hubs to alloy

- try some of the mods to stop the rear gearbox cover lifting- a search will bring these up

- personally adding shims to remove slop1of each 3mm and 5mm sets will do it

- then getting the right tyres for what you are using it for and right setup, electronics etc.

much of the other stuff like alloy arms are a waste of money.

If you are breaking stuff… practice driving or you are pushing it past what it’s for regardless of hop ups.

 

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22 hours ago, Alangt4 said:

The car really doesn’t need much…it’s a great performer bar large jumps.

-steel pinion

- alloy motor mount

 are both essential

- you then may change front hubs to alloy

- try some of the mods to stop the rear gearbox cover lifting- a search will bring these up

- personally adding shims to remove slop1of each 3mm and 5mm sets will do it

- then getting the right tyres for what you are using it for and right setup, electronics etc.

much of the other stuff like alloy arms are a waste of money.

If you are breaking stuff… practice driving or you are pushing it past what it’s for regardless of hop ups.

 

Still building the TFE from Christmas. So far I only have the alloy motor mount and pinion. Not decide on motor yet.

Interesting about slop. Where do the shims fit Alan? 

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41 minutes ago, LEE71 said:

Still building the TFE from Christmas. So far I only have the alloy motor mount and pinion. Not decide on motor yet.

Interesting about slop. Where do the shims fit Alan? 

The 5 mm shims fit in 2 places:

- the alloy kingpins in the front hub carriers

- between drive shaft pins and bearings on each of the 4 axles… good to change the plastic hexes to alloy clamping ones as well as the plastic ones crack eventually.

The 3 mm ones fit on the suspension arm shafts and remove some of that play between the arms and the hubs and between inner arms and gearbox mountings. It can be tricky enough to put e clips on and the shims are tricky as well.the inner and outer ones need done.

I think that’s them.

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I shimmed my TF quite a bit, details in the build thread 

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Genuine - not chippy - question but is the re re honestly great fun to build / run ?

Always admired the TFE - and nearly bought the re re - but held back when I read about he compromises 

Very happy to be disabused 👍

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1 minute ago, SuperChamp82 said:

Genuine - not chippy - question but is the re re honestly great fun to build / run ?

Always admired the TFE - and nearly bought the re re - but held back when I read about he compromises 

Very happy to be disabused 👍

Yes it’s a very nice build- it doesn’t have all the metal the avante does but it all fits together well and enjoyable. The only thing missing from the original to me is the ti screws- but they weren’t great to be honest.

the car drives really well too- very smooth and responsive, steers great. Probably the easiest Tamiya 4WD to work on- any gears are accessed in 3-4 screws at most. Plenty of tuning options too. 

I have 4 top forces, and likely sold 6 manta rays or other top force variants over the years.

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Cars coming on well. Had a look at Matisse's build post and at his and Alan's advice have bought some shims. Hobbywing Xerun 17.5t motor fitted.

Newby advice though please. When I turn the rear wheels (by hand) the motor or front axle does not turn with the rear axle. Have I not tightened the ball diffs enough?

Sorry for daft Q!

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Did you put the one way gear in the front gearbox? Check you have it the right way round as should give drive for forward and freewheel when no drive applied.

could be as you say the ball diff not being tight enough- you may need to remove the gear box covers and take a look and see what’s amiss.

 

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2 hours ago, Alangt4 said:

Did you put the one way gear in the front gearbox? Check you have it the right way round as should give drive for forward and freewheel when no drive applied.

could be as you say the ball diff not being tight enough- you may need to remove the gear box covers and take a look and see what’s amiss.

 

Cheers Alan will have a look. Yes fitted the one way. I didn't realise that it could go in the wrong way round!

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I'm ashamed to say that I've just come back to finishing this build due to other issues and having too much fun with the Blitzer and Hotshot. 

I've checked the one way and its right its just nothing else is consistent to the drive to the wheels. On the ground it just like a slipping clutch on a 1/1. I'm convinced I've built the diffs correctly. Is there an idiots guide somewhere on how tight to build the ball diffs?

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3 hours ago, LEE71 said:

I'm ashamed to say that I've just come back to finishing this build due to other issues and having too much fun with the Blitzer and Hotshot. 

I've checked the one way and its right its just nothing else is consistent to the drive to the wheels. On the ground it just like a slipping clutch on a 1/1. I'm convinced I've built the diffs correctly. Is there an idiots guide somewhere on how tight to build the ball diffs?

I know this link is for a Schumacher ball diff but the final assembly & tightness check from 13:30 onward is pretty spot on. Trish knows his stuff.

https://youtu.be/wiG8_osS3f8

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Thanks Andy!

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On 7/5/2022 at 12:08 PM, LEE71 said:

I'm ashamed to say that I've just come back to finishing this build due to other issues and having too much fun with the Blitzer and Hotshot. 

I've checked the one way and its right its just nothing else is consistent to the drive to the wheels. On the ground it just like a slipping clutch on a 1/1. I'm convinced I've built the diffs correctly. Is there an idiots guide somewhere on how tight to build the ball diffs?

Top Force ball diffs are unlike others and are not really adjustable. Just put all the washers on in the correct orientation and tighten them fully until the step screw bottoms out (don't over-torque as the diff halves are soft aluminium).

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8 hours ago, sosidge said:

Top Force ball diffs are unlike others and are not really adjustable. Just put all the washers on in the correct orientation and tighten them fully until the step screw bottoms out (don't over-torque as the diff halves are soft aluminium).

True they are not fully adjustable as there isn’t a spring like on the Schumacher ones & the Egress Rere ones. On initial build you have a bit of scope to tighten screw MA3 to the desired setting but careful not to overtighten as sosidge said.

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On 7/5/2022 at 6:08 AM, LEE71 said:

I'm ashamed to say that I've just come back to finishing this build due to other issues and having too much fun with the Blitzer and Hotshot. 

I've checked the one way and its right its just nothing else is consistent to the drive to the wheels. On the ground it just like a slipping clutch on a 1/1. I'm convinced I've built the diffs correctly. Is there an idiots guide somewhere on how tight to build the ball diffs?

When you turn the rear wheels, both, by hand does the drive shaft and motor spin?

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