Top-Force Evo parts

[cliffw0970]

Anyone know where I can get these 4 rear diff parts in a hurry (UK)? 
 

I was obsessed with the fact I had to use glue (not seen that on the previous 10 or so cars I've built) and missed the bearings that go on first. Schoolboy error, I know!! 
 

I've found the parts bag for £50 on eBay. Problem is, delivery is 4th Jan. I go back to work on the 5th and this was meant to be my build while I’m off :-( 

If anyone knows how I can get these parts in the next couple of days I would appreciate it. Cost is not a problem, just need them! 
 

I could cry 😭 

[Superluminal]

I know that youve glued them but unless youve used so form of epoxy/arraldite you should be able to separate them without to much damage to the splines.

If yiuve used a couple of dobs of super glue and as they are metal it could be worth leaving them for a few minutes in a cup of boiling water and then use a small screwdriver to lever them off? If you think you need new bits youve got nothing to lose (possibly)

[Finnsllc]

id also assume u could quickly separate the parts. Since u didn't install the bearing its simply metal on metal. a solvent should get u up and going again quite easily. @cliffw0970

[cliffw0970]

Ordered the parts on express delivery.

Separating them is no Ionger an option, tried acetone then got a bit too heavy handed!! 

[Superluminal]

What glue did you use?

I know the manual says "synthetic rubber cement" but this product has never seemed to exist in any form that would suit the application they suggest.

[LEE71]

2 hours ago, Superluminal said:

What glue did you use?

I know the manual says "synthetic rubber cement" but this product has never seemed to exist in any form that would suit the application they suggest.

I got the kit for Christmas. Not started it yet but confused as what to use. Was about to use Loctite thread lock stuff. Any better suggestions? (UK)

[Superluminal]

I used a couple of blobs of the red tamiya thread lock on my Top Force as didnt want the bond to be totally permanent. As i understand it, the glue is only required to take up the tolerance in the splines on the diff plates and the outdrive to prevent any movement from damaging the spline profile and causing it to round off and slip.

[Alangt4]

Yes you just need to lock them in place so they don’t move- the evo ones are ok when that is done. I can run  10.5 brushless in my evo and dyna tech in vintage top force evolution cars without any issues. But with my runner top force and normal diffs unless they are superglued in they last only a couple of runs with a super stock motor.

[rich_f]

No glue is truly permanent. Since both of the parts are metal, just get them hot by gently heating them with a flame - any glue will break down.

No need to use force, and I certainly wouldn't use a lever and risk marring the surface - just place the outer part on something with a gap in it like an open vice and tap the centre part out with a punch. 

[LEE71]

Built my first TFE ball diff. They are quite tricky. Can anyone give any advice on how tight MA3 step bolt should be and the whole tightening process?

[Rb4276]

2 hours ago, LEE71 said:

Built my first TFE ball diff. They are quite tricky. Can anyone give any advice on how tight MA3 step bolt should be and the whole tightening process?

I went almost 100% tight at first and it felt to tight. I then backed off a 1/4 turn after full tightness and so far seems good