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silvertriple

Tamiya 58695 Wild One Blockhead Motors at SilverTriple's sauce

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Hi everyone, and happy new year!

My next build is going to be the Wild One. I'm not really a fan of the pre painted body, neither the stickers forcing fake sponsors, so I'll do at my own sauce. This morning, I gather all the parts together in the box to make sure I have everything to start
aV9qT8a.jpg

Ingredients

  • Vinyls, as I need to do something different and non box art :)
  • Cheap light buckets less toyish
  • Led kits
  • TBLE-02S and Lipo Alarm, set for Bruhsless
  • Brushless blue can 13.5T motor
  • ball bearings
  • Wires and bullet connectors the motor
  • Other things not present on the picture : 3D Printed led rear attachement, license plate, connectors for leds on the body shell

It will probably take some time but I will detail this build as much as my previous ones, and this will happen over the next few days/weeks.

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Following some mentions of a washer issue in the gearbox by someone on another forum, I had a look at the gearbox in the instruction manual, there is only one washer. 
H0uBwru.jpg

There was a change in the gearbox between the original FAV/Wild One and re-release quite similar to other kits such as the frog to change the dogbones for some that won't pop out (original ones where hex balls). 

I also note that all bearing kits I saw were mentioning 3 850 bearings, but I believe only 2 are required for the counter gear, and that replacing the metal bearing next to the big bevel gear on the right side doesn't make any sense to my understanding, unless something escape my mind due to remains of yesterdays consumption :)

Any case it is step 18 and metal parts bag B, so probably not this week I'll get into this step :)

In the meantime, the work started by high resolution scan of the stickers page, and I'm working in Silhouette Studio to prepare the vinyl work.

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2 hours ago, silvertriple said:

unless something escape my mind due to remains of yesterdays consumption :)

:lol:     I think the 850 is there just to reduce friction a little more

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1 minute ago, KEV THE REV said:

:lol:     I think the 850 is there just to reduce friction a little more

I got confirmed on another forum that my assumption on the useless ball bearing used as a spacer is right :-)

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Well, yes... Like many Tamiya cars :) (that and making sure there is a lot of play so the steering is unprecise enough to let the driver know it is the car which is unprecise and not the driver :lol:)...

That being said, I got more precision on the washer issue, and I believe it may be linked with the metal plated finish adding some thickness to the material... I'll pay attention to that when building the gearbox...

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Look forward to seeing the build @silvertriple especially as I have mine still to do and like you I probably won’t go fully box art; not a fan of the yellow spots or the fake logos. But I think I might work on my other Wild One restoration first as I think I have everything I need now for that one.

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Today is about decisions:

  • yellow is going away
  • white ovals for the numbers and maybe part of the flag
  • Gun Metal and silver for the rest

Main vinyls are done ready for later use. Time to find sponsor stickers... I have a set of Traxxas stickers left here that may do it:
Zi9ki6d.jpg

Still looking for other options, but at least the main idea is there...

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Did start the build tonight and finish the parts bag A
KQufjIu.jpg

I will detail down the build tomorrow as it is quite late now and that I'm going at the office tomorrow morning with an early call...

Side notes :

  • side colors may change
  • the led buckets are fixed with 2mm screws. It' is far too small. I will need to find 2.6 mm screws
  • dampers preload will have to be reviewed, but I will have as well to review the spring retainer
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As promised, I'm documenting the step now...

As usual, I started by mounting the tires on the wheels. I did not glue them, I definitely suspect they will need to be glued with the 13.5T brushless motor, but I'm not sure yet if I'll run with those wheels... I'll glue them once decided...
VjcAEKn.jpg

Having a battery ready in storage mode for the quick test, I usually skip the step 1 in all Tamiya manual (the binding process don't even last more than 2 minutes with the setting of the ESC, so it won't need a recharge after this). I also checked the settings of my light kit and made all the TX settings accordingly.
uvtRRy5.jpg

Step 2.
I put the side stickers on the chassis.
BPE19Lo.jpg
And did a color check right away... (Decision was made to do another check tomorrow, with more light.)
IAoECJ0.jpg

Step 3 - Skipped as I do have my own non toyish/hideous light buckets

Step 4 - Shock towers and light buckets
As I don't use disappointing Tamiya light buckets I will need to do some adaptation for mine. The screws are 2mm, and it will required some printed parts to make it right. In the meantime, they are mounted approximatively, and I will get back to this later on.
Ku378RN.jpg

Step 5 - Front axle
Each plastic of this kit seems to have both a different finish and a different flexibility... I don't like this bumper, it will be replaced by something else at some point...
dKgZLsS.jpg
iODKDsO.jpg

Step 6 - Front axle  joins the chassis
5 screws, 2 by side on top and one on the bottom...
U0kpXXf.jpg

Step 7 - Front arms
JW5UlGD.jpg
One curiosity: the uprights are fixed on the upright axle by a setting screw. (one note : I don't put grease on parts that are exposed to dirt as it tend to capture the dirt, so no grease here (if needed I'll spray some PTFE dry lube on the axle).
p4sYsyq.jpg

Step 8 - Front arms join the front axle
HMTrd6A.jpg

Step 9 - Front damper cylinders
Nothing really suprising here.
6QoK9eO.jpg
aBxmGTP.jpg

Step 10 - Adding oil in the dampers
(yeah, I know, I already did one at previous step). Again nothing surprising. By the way, I checked and they are quite smooth...
3akW8x8.jpg

Step 11 - Adding the springs and what is needed to mount them
I did them as indicated on the manual at this stage. I checked them afterwards : the springs seems harder than what I would expect be needed for the front of a Wild One which is expected to be quite light specially on the front. Tweaking or replacement might be needed...
x0sYAuk.jpg

Step 12 - Attaching the front dampers
Not much to say, except take note to start by fixing the bottom rather than the top of the dampers. At this step you are also adding the front body mount.
WOnifse.jpg
Fkz5ykj.jpg

Step 13 - Attaching rear suspension shaft and side nerf bars...
Not much to say, it's pretty easy to do. The rear suspension shaft have too much play to my taste... Probably something to do here. I suspect a washer between the center part and the suspension shafts would help...
adymTFI.jpg

Step 14 - Attaching gearbox stays and battery mount
The left  one is attached by a tapping screw and a washer mounted from the top while the right one is attached by a metric screw from the bottom, a washer and a nut on the top...
ZFNRLPK.jpg

Step 15 - Roll cage is assembled
gsUthR5.jpg

Step 16 - The roll cage joins the chassis as well as two body mount for the pilot
KQufjIu.jpg

And this is the end of the metal parts bag A.

Today, I have a more precise look at the side stickers and decided to replace the gun metal by silver. There was not enough contrast between the blue and the gun metal, it will be better with the silver (I may still use the gun metal in some areas...).
EFkNcYw.jpg
 

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As mentioned yesterday, I had to think about a way to secure my 2 mm screws. Either by changing then by bigger screws, but the light bucket may not like this, or by setting something better with 3D parts...

I designed 2 parts for this. They will enclose the regular 3mm hole in the chassis to make it usable with my led buckets and the 2 mm diameter screw...
PntGZQ7.jpg
7D60VCb.jpg

The image is quite big, but it will be small parts. I'll eventually readjust them after 3D printing if the result is not good enough, but that should make it. For the rear side, I'm tempted to review the design I made to include a second set of red lights (the led kit is 4+4 and not 4+2). I'll think about this later...

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Today was the time to get into the metal part bag B, which was opened after the dinner.

Step 17 - Setting the right part of the gearbox
I started to put all parts for step 17 and step 18 together on the plate and test the fitting. It moves freely on both side, and there is no issue with the washer in my test. I decided to proceed as per the manual...
CHuiMti.jpg
zM9XMeP.jpg

Step 18 - Closing the gearbox
TSU9lhr.jpg
I've used masking tape to keep the diff together and avoid loosing the washer in the gearbox (as indicated on the manual, but that works)...
EX5gsyE.jpg

Step 19 & 20  - Attaching the gearbox. on left side and bottom side first, and then on the right side.
The gearbox is now fitted to the chassis
tvvgsF1.jpg

Step 21 - Rear axles
First you have to cut the joint boot. Pro tip : Do not put the left over in the bin (explanations later).
MvSqaY8.jpg
I decided to use the left over of the joint boot as rubber band to  fix the joint boot on the diff and rear axle joints. And it works perfectly.
pT2ivVS.jpg

Step 22 - The rear axles are joining the chassis (I may have forgot to take the picture :-) )
With the metal part on the other side of the suspension shaft, there is no play anymore. and the rear suspension is moving quite well but within a surprisingly limited range.
2W4XeSQ.jpg

Step 23 - Pinion gear
I fixed the pinion on the motor (no pictures)

Step 24 - Attaching the motor.
I will use the high gear, 18T pinion, with a 7.54:1 ratio, which will be perfect for the 13.5T motor (maybe a bit short, as per my experience, it could be even higher gearing, as the Turbo Scorpion is perfect with a ratio closer to 7:1 and a 13.5T motor).
LmiA5TB.jpg

Step 25 - Rear dampers cylinders.
They are quite similar in the way they are mounted than the front ones.
pKfIeIp.jpg
hSc1Thw.jpg

Step 26 - Damper oil
I filled them with the oil which is not the same as the front by the way (yellow/400 behind, red/200 for front) and closed them.
They are working smoothly. Left is to see what happens with the springs.

Step 27 - Springs
The springs are added to the rear dampers, and will get ready to be mounted (no picture)

Step 28 - rear dampers joins the chassis and parts metal bag B is over.
Von9MxX.jpg
i64aK8q.jpg
I will have to see how the damper reacts with the spring. there is about 8 mm range for the damper between the lower and higher suspension position. The upper position is limited by the rear arm touching the roll cage, but until the wheels are on, and everything in it's a bit early to call this a problem. Time will tell.

Program tomorrow is to get a few 3D prints done for this car, but not sure I'll proceed to the following steps within the weekend. We may have a lot of snow during the night, and I may have to play one of my favorite games tomorrow. I call it Snowkoban :-)


 

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After a track indoor session this morning with the M06-Giulia, some finetuning work on the printer, a few failed prints (there was some remains of white PLA around the hot end), a review of the design, my front light buckets are now in their definitive position. The print is not perfect, I'll reprint them later any case in MJF PA12 for a better finish. But at least, now my front led buckets are no longer moving  and they are firmly fixed...
HV30XuO.jpg
NXRGXIs.jpg

I also printed spring cups and they work as expected (not on the picture at this stage - as I won't publish them on Thingiverse, as I just reproduced the design of someone else on another forum)

I'll publish the parts I can publish on Thingiverse at the end of the build with some parts designed to work on the body shell for the same purpose...

I'm currently printing the rear led holders, and should be able to get final pictures at some point for them as well for the thingiverse page. At the end, I did not move forward on the build, as I have still a lot to do beside this and my printer required me to work out a bit the things...

 

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Looking great. I really want to get on with my build, just got home from holiday but need to get some errands out of the way first.

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Rear led attachment were printed in both single and dual led versions...
KdHyrGM.jpg

The print is not perfect, but I don't really care at this stage, as I'm not happy with the result (I can't show the opposite configuration as the left license plate print failed, not really sure why). In any case, I'm not really happy with the result: the side without the license plate looks like unfinished, and the side with the license plate looks like meh... Need to totally rethink this.

Ideas/propositions welcome :)
 

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Well, I'm still unclear... Did something with a centered license plate, with a ring that would prevent it to move... Found it a bit too simple and added some details, which I believe may go very well with the motor lines and some details of the gear cover... But it maybe a bit Marui Hunter like, now :-)
Sd4fPaj.jpg

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@silvertriple sorry the results didn't meet expectation but seems like a lot of fun with being able to prototype quickly and redesign etc. I'm really starting to develop and itch for 3D printing ;)

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After another printer fail due to  a printer jam again, some cleaning work and a reprint, much better this time...
L34dIb2.jpg

I finally have something almost acceptable...

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I finally went back on doing something on the Wild One today... It was mainly about electronics.

First, I prepared the servo.
VZbsnwE.jpg

 It's one which is way overkill, but since I have those one in the boxes, the wild one is one of the car that allows to use it because of the room allowed for it. So it is going there.
CPt4crU.jpg

Then it was time to put cables on the motor, and to take care of the lights... (Note: I thought I had a 270mm sensor cable at home and it was not the case (it may have been used in the Turbo Scorpion), the one remaining was a 200 mm, so it won't work. I order a 250mm which should be long enough for this). Since it is a TBLE-02S ESC at the moment (I did not set the XT60 connector on it as I may change the ESC later on), I put as well a lipo alarm in the tub. Then it was time to add the lights... The tub may have a lot of room, but it is really quickly becoming a mess :-D.
EawS9LX.jpg

After some time, I found proper way to pass the cables, and added the last connector for the led that goes on the body shell...
mq7NeIw.jpg

A bit of preview:
niOGj9H.jpg
N1Q0TK0.jpg

Lot of work remain to do, but at least, I won't touch the soldering iron for next stage (until I'm decided about the ESC).
What is left to do for next stage:
- get the lights reflector painted (liquid chrome molotow paint inside)
- paint the driver head, and finish the helmet
- take care of the twelve fingers hands on the driver body :-)
- install the side number plate, the windows net, and the main colors (vinyls)
- install the led buckets on the body shell
- install a proper sensor cable (there is none at the moment - so the car can't run)

I may do part of this tomorrow, but surely not everything...

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Slow progress this morning as the kids were playing on my usual work area...

I did apply some chrome inside the led buckets. You may note the form of the fixation of the led buckets. It allows to lock them in orientation as long as you find a way (obviously, my mounts 3D printed are designed for them).
XWi9sZw.jpg

I then mounted the front one on the car. I took a picture of the result of the Chrome applied in terms of look. Left one has the inside with chrome, right one don't have.
2GBVCak.jpg
The right one was replaced after the picture.

I then took care of the led buckets installed on the bonnet
lZw5PO3.jpg

Again, I designed some parts to adapt the 2 mm screw to 3mm hole in the bonnet, and since I did not want to add a second hole into the body, I designed a top part which include room for one single o-ring to lock the part, while the led bucket is locked in the part by it's form... And it works as expected.
UZo336j.jpg
Quee5lp.jpg

I'll publish all the front parts within the afternoon on Thingiverse.

Next will be about finition...

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Wanted to get things moving forward, knowing that I would not finish it anyway today, as I'm still undecided about sponsors stickers and I still have a the sensor cable to put in.

I started my afternoon to work on the body of the pilot. First priority, remove the additional unrequired 12 fingers per hand :-). Added a some masking tape before adding black.
Xwf2sJF.jpg

Next was a bit of black to make the driver less alien and more human
Uppm3t1.jpg

Then waiting the paint to dry, I move on the body, first with a photocopy of the stickers to idenitfy the limits of the vinyls as the vinyl I cut are divided by colors...
1piOelD.jpg

Then apply the top and the bottom
Le7vEaH.jpg
rwWS9n7.jpg

And next was the addition of the number plate, and yes, as usual, there will be a 9.
ZXuwp8j.jpg

Once this was done, I decided to move on to the driver body again by applying some red.
S79sZtm.jpg

Before adding some black again. I painted the driver head as well, and the metal finish doesn't really help (but it maybe even worse on the Nylon under the metal finish - key particularity of the wild one). I finished the harness with some chrome and I'm happy with my driver like that
E6PqP1Q.jpg

Please get introduced to Mister big hands :-D
vNKtSvM.jpg

I put it in the chassis quickly after that
sytXUlw.jpg

And I decided to put the bonnet in place to see how it would look like...
yDJwKP8.jpg

And switched on the lights as well, just to see
G9mMpMB.jpg

I just added the roof  (not fixed yet) to take some pictures as it was time to stop for today...
Cw1pJNC.jpg
gvJ6wYp.jpg

The rear still look unfinished, but that will be worked out at some point, but not today...

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