TB evo 3 hop ups

[mr_lister999.]

What hop ups are availiable for this car? I have bought the front alloy body mounts and the blue sealed bearings already, just have to wait for them to arrive.

I got my tb evo 3 a couple of days ago and will start building it as soon as i get the blue bearings for it.

Just want to put in a good word for our friend JASON on ebay. My 1st transaction with him and no problems. I recomend him to anyone.

[WillyChang]

A pal signalled to me that "Square" makes an option chassis for the e3, but I haven't checked that out yet. He seems to think they're great but methinks he just doubled the cost of his car.

There's probably no need for many options on this car, apart from usual tuning gear. I'd be going to buy more of those 3mm collars to adjust the arm position and/or jack up the pin-carriers.

If you're not used to driving one-way cars, I'd also buy a diff halves pack, balls and rings to build a 2nd diff for the front.

[WillyChang]

ok, "update" [:I]

A near-vital hopup is a stiff 'clamp' ring for the front 1-way.

There is a plastic bevel spur which screws onto the alloy 1-way

with 4 little screws. Tighten these screws too much and the gear

becomes "ruffled"... leading to dodgy gear meshing. You have to

be very careful as to how tight these screws are, and make sure

its well loctite'd so they don't loosen.

And hey wow, the Surikarn e3 has that part, here t'is... []

[mr_lister999.]

coll, thanks willy. Havent built the one way yet so will have to watch out. I have driven a one way before in my xray but i didnt like the way breaking was reduced. I found it a hop up of no use to me. I will probably to to get the diff for the front. Thanks for the tip.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by mr_lister999.

coll, thanks willy. Havent built the one way yet so will have to watch out. I have driven a one way before in my xray but i didnt like the way breaking was reduced. I found it a hop up of no use to me. I will probably to to get the diff for the front. Thanks for the tip.

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One-way cars need a different driving technique to 4WD. When testing

2 otherwise-identical TA03s, one had the 1-way in front. Idea is to

brake early (waaaay early), then floor it again just when you *enter*

the corner. The 1-way car will pull thru the corner, the other 4WD

drifts wide with power.

On very tight corners... the 1-way car can also do a handbrake-turn.

Sometimes this can be an overtaking move too... nip in on the inside

and swing your tail around. Just gotta be able to take off again

faster than the outside car, otherwise you lose your bet.

I think Tamiya has done you a favour... methink its cheaper to

buy all the extra diff parts than to buy that alloy 1-way unit.

Its a solidly made device with two 1-way bearings... doesn't

look cheap at all!! []

[DJTheo]

When you floor it on the curve, doesnt it have slip which "locks" the front one way and make it act like a normal 4wd? [?]

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by DJTheo

When you floor it on the curve, doesnt it have slip which "locks" the front one way and make it act like a normal 4wd? [?]

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Yes its then the 1-way 4WD... but it also hauls it thru the corner with less understeer than the other car.

Probably something to do with "no diff" up front.

Aaah, waiting for a fine day this weekend.

Time for some Evolicious tracktime. [8D]

[mr_lister999.]

The front one way just isnt for me. I love cars that understeer in corners, one where you have to throw the control full left or right. If i want to tun har i will hit the breaks last second full power and slow it down. To give you the sort of idea on a car i like or dont like: xray's steering or tc3's steering. hate: schumacher cars steering in general as its way to precise (if you get what i mean []

I havent drivejn the tb evo 3 yet as its only built up to the stage you need bearings. I am waitng on a set of blue ones which should get here by Tueday time. Until then, its a chassis with suspension arms and 4 shocks [8D]

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by mr_lister999.

I havent drivejn the tb evo 3 yet as its only built up to the stage you need bearings. I am waitng on a set of blue ones which should get here by Tueday time. Until then, its a chassis with suspension arms and 4 shocks [8D]

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Supposedly the e3 was designed with the 1-way in mind, so I'm told

it should handle better (faster!) than with a front diff.

I don't know how you have the patience to wait for the BBs to arrive.

I just scavenged a bunch from various willing donors; rebearinged

the car in less than 30 mins work. There isn't really many parts

to the whole car really... not all that satsifying. [:I]

If you really want a time-consuming task, screw in the battery

mounts and work out how your cells will fit. If you're really

masochistic you'll want to have side-by-side cells and fat ones

at that.. so best start work with the big round file!!

File the mounts each lower and with an indent facing towards the

battery. Camfer the chassis slots too, let them sit lower.

Friendly reminder:- carbon dust is hazardrous. Wear respiratory

protection or I just did the sanding under a running tap.

[mr_lister999.]

quote:I don't know how you have the patience to wait for the BBs to arrive

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Funny you should mention that willy, i gave up last night and built most of it! Just got to finish a few details and its ready. I havent quite decided on what cellas to use since i have lots of saddle packs but they are past their best. I have lots of quality stick packs that i may use instead. I know it wont be as good but life will be much more simple!

Thanks for all the tips.

[stulec52]

Willy,

yep that's where I am right now, getting my cells to sit nice and low in the chassis.

I got the KAI chassis set with mine, which is much much too nice to run outdoors, so I'll be running with the kit chassis until late Autumn time when my club goes back to indoor carpet.

[WillyChang]

Ooooh... KAI...! (expensive!!) []

Trouble is with all the filing needed to fit side-by-sides, its

a job that's best done with the chassis loose and unbuilt.

Stickpacks will fit fine 'on' the cavity and will not touch the

shaft, even if your centre divider is round the 'wrong' way.

Tamiya supplies a stickpack sidepiece, this is just unneeded weight.

Turf that and use 2 countersunk screws thru the holes, topped with

a big fat nylon nut. The ones here look as if they're refugees

from a Proline shell's wing. This stops your battery falling out,

either style.

Again, the width between the posts might be a bit short for

non-commercial stickpacks. Only the low-profile stick tabbing

"butt caps" style fits it nicely; you may also need to pull off

the fancy plastic endcaps from any Trinity stickpacks.

Real estate is at a premium here... []

Darned... rained all weekend. []

[mr_lister999.]

I bought the aluminium front body posts for it. I went to install it last night and the pack says its for the TA04 but is compatible with the evo 3. Well, i went to screw them on and found the plastic mounting part of the bumper is a different one to the one in the hop ups instruction. The one pictures in flat but the one on the evo 3 has 3 raised bits to lacate the foam on. This means the posts were way to high and the screws were therefore not long enough to screw into the mount. I either have to cut off the locating pieces or get another front bumper, most annoying.

I must say i felt tamiyas instructions are not quite as good on this model as most of the others i have built. Anyway, finished it last night so just got to put in all the electronics and away i go.

[WillyChang]

I think I'd rather not have metal body posts... too much liability. []

Also friendly reminder... hope you didn't miss out on the 2 plastic

tubes about 12mm long that go above steering arms under the topplate.

Its easily done... [:I]

[mr_lister999.]

quote:Also friendly reminder... hope you didn't miss out on the 2 plastic

tubes about 12mm long that go above steering arms under the topplate.

Its easily done...

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LOL, willy, you know i did! I noticed just after i finished screwing on the top deck (i was in a rush to get it finished) Rebuilt it and guess what... i missed out the aerial mount [] Off came the top desck again! Live and learn.

The blue beaings decided to turn up today just when i finished the build. Might have to chage them over tonight, we will see.

[WillyChang]

Those 2 tubes are the naffest part of the whole kit!! []

When I get some time I'm gonna cut some 5mm ID aluminium tube

to replace them, then may polish them up to a mirror shine. [8D]

Ooooh... buy lots of spare front bevel spurs too, so I'm told. [:0]

[stulec52]

anyone know the part number for the front diff for the EVO3 ?

I need to get one for some of the tight and twisty tracks we run on.

[WillyChang]

Tamiya does not (yet?) sell a "diff pack" for TBe3.

You can either raid your spares box for the minor bits,

or the following 3 sparepart items will supply enough parts:

1) TA04 balldiff pack (lose the spur, rings & outdrives)

2) TBe3 diff outdrives

3) F201 diff rings

+ a bevel spur gear from your TBe3 kit.

Funnily enough... Tamiya sells the 1-way blob as an SP.

Oh... as for the colour of TBe3's anodizing...

I'm now calling it PANDAN green!! (as in Pandanus) [8D]

[Dazmeister]

Yeah nice car, got the diff in mine and I have changed to 48dp spurs. Ran it for the first time at West London track on Sunday and initial results are good. 12X2 70 spur with 28 pinion, 70wt oil front, 60wt rear with associated gold springs all round and take off CS22 tyres. Took me a while to get used to the speed as I usually do stock racing but the fun was cut short when instead of re-peaking my cells before the final I peaked the esc [] ! I use power poles and stick packs, managed to get 2.7v into the speedo making it very hot and ******ed !

Another tip is to try a 2mm shim under the rear block to give more mid corner steering.

Its a tad lardy being about 1550g ready to race but a set of titanium screws should take a bit off.

Daz

[Thesis]

I know someone who had the same problem with his 414 !!! it was caused by the carbon chassis. This carbon chassis will cause shortcut with bad / damaged batterypacks [8)]

[mr_lister999.]

quote:I peaked the esc []

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LOL, hope it wasnt an expensive one! Live and learn...

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by Thesis

I know someone who had the same problem with his 414 !!! it was caused by the carbon chassis. This carbon chassis will cause shortcut with bad / damaged batterypacks [8)]

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Umm... I think Daz meant he plugged his charger to his ESC. [|)]

Carbon chassis indeed does short your batteries out if they're uninsulated. I last night probed the Yok CF with the multimeter and its about 150-200ohms... but the conductive bit is in the middle, not on the fancy patterned top surfaces (which are only just for 'show').

You should file off the sharp corners and superglue the surfaces that touch your batteries. Might even go as far as shrinkwrapping your cells with individual shrinktubes if car has enough space/weight.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by Dazmeister

Another tip is to try a 2mm shim under the rear block to give more mid corner steering.

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Be very careful when driving this, Daz. The TBe3 has such nicely contoured blocks, the weak point is in the middle... so don't hit anything. The ones in the 414 are more agricultural, but tougher.

Also are you running A/C at the back? Try A/A instead; you've already got the 2deg toe uprights at the rear, so A/A keeps it 2deg. A/C will give you 3deg, which could make the handling even less lively.

A/B/C/D = 0/0.5/1.0/1.5 degs in addition to your 2deg in the carriers.

Or remove the upright for a 0deg TA04 one.