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SanukiUdon

First Time Build TT-02B - ESC, Motor, Battery (?)

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Just ordered my first RC car, a TT-02B Neo Scorcher. Learning about what I need to get it running and looking forward to the build, but i'm a little lost in a sea of options. I'm living in Japan so i'd like to keep my options mostly to the tamiya brand as they are the most available here.

Along with the chassis here are the parts i'm thinking to order, but if there is something that isn't right or can be better recommended i'd really appreciate the help:

 

Tamiya Tool Kit

 

OP-497 Bearings

 

Battery 

Tamiya 1600sp + charger

 

ESC 

Tamiya Brushless ESC 04SR

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/45070/index.htm

or

Tamiya Brushless Electronic Speed Controller 04S with Sensor

(This seems to be the right one, but when it says it fits the 15.5t range does that mean I can't fit a 10.5 / 13.5 motor?)

https://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/45069/index.html

 

Motor -- Comes with a 540, but I've read that brushless perform better

OP.1894 - Tamiya Brushless Motor 02 with sensor 17.5T

OP.1612 - Tamiya Brushless Motor 02 with sensor 15.5T

(it doesn't seem they do one with a 13.5, but there is a 10.5 one...?)

 

2.4g Receiver

Struggling to fine one at the moment. The finespec 2.4g seems suitable, but crazy prices for it at the moment.

 

Aside from these are there any additional parts I should look at getting?

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Welcome to the forum! :) 

The Tamiya 1600sp battery is Ni-Cd, I would really stay away from Ni-Cd, it is really obsolete tech for RC by today's standards. Ni-Mh is much better, or Li-Po if you really want to go towards the ultra-performance route.

I am currently running a TT-02B Plasma Edge with a Tamiya Super Stock BZ motor + NiMh battery and it is blazing fast! I use the trusty Hobbywing 1060 ESC. Only the fastest brushless motors can outrun a Super Stock.

Futaba 2.4GHz systems are comparable to Tamiya's. On a budget, Fly-Sky is also good.

 

 

 

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Tamiya radio systems are made by Futaba, so if you go with Futaba, you're still keeping it "in the family." 3PRKA is the basic entry-level Futaba radio, and it's all you need. Pick up a basic servo, S3003 or 3004, for steering.

If you're just starting out, I'd suggest you stick to the kit-supplied 540 motor for now. The car will be faster than you think. Get to know it at stock speeds before you start throwing faster motors in it.

As for an ESC, the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 is quickly becoming the default go-to cheap speed controller, and for good reason. It just plain works. It only works with brushed motors, however, so if you go brushless later, you'll need to replace it. But it's cheap, so it's a good way to get started. Tamiya is even including them in some kits sold in the USA, now.

Best of luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

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1 hour ago, SanukiUdon said:

In terms of the NiMh battery what mAh should I be using? 

mAh specifies how much energy the battery will store, therefore how much it will last. I normally go with 3600mAh since it's a good price/capacity ratio.

Depending on the charger, you might want to decide what mAh to get. A 5000mAh battery will take around 5+ hrs to fully charge on a 1amp charger, 2000mAh would be 2+ hrs at 1amp and so forth. A good charger can output above 4amps, which will accelerate charging 4X compared to 1Amp. However, to maintain battery longevity, usually you don't want to charge above "1C" which for a 5000mAh battery would be 5 amps, for 2000mAh 2amps, etc.

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3 hours ago, SanukiUdon said:

Thank you for the information :D It seems like that would be a great fit for me and bad on the budget. 

 

Is this the correct ESC? https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/product/B09K4TLCSK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2E01WAC3FT7YV&psc=1

 

In terms of the NiMh battery what mAh should I be using? 

Yes, that is the correct ESC, it can run as low as 12T motors. I have the TBLE ESC but find it a PITA to set up.

Also, I bought a 17.5T brushless motor as a few months back, I was told that "a 17.5T can easily beat my super stocks". But when I tested it, I was totally underwhelmed, it is just a bit better than the silver can, at most on par with a Torque Tuned. It can maybe beat something, but not out of the box, and definitely not not "easily" without much screwing about with gearing, turbo, timing and whatnots first. So, since you are in Japan, any of the Z's in Tamiya Super Stock range is a good cheap easy way to speed for you. BZ is most suitable, but really, they are mostly the same. 

Current NiMH technology is at 6000mAh max I think, but they are fairly expensive. The more reasonable priced ones are the 4 - 5Ah ones. 4Ah gives me 15 to 20 minutes run time with my TZ.

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6 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

 

 

The last time I quoted this video, i was told that the results are wrong as the BLs had the wrong battery, gearing, timing, turbo, boost, etc.... 🤷

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27 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

The last time I quoted this video, i was told that the results are wrong as the BLs had the wrong battery, gearing, timing, turbo, boost, etc.... 🤷

I guess it is a somewhat fair point to point out that the test was using NiCd battery, thus possibly preventing the brushless to fully stretch their legs. Some of that would still apply to the Super Stocks though, which is why NiCd simply doesn't cut it for any motor.

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Just now, OoALEJOoO said:

I guess it is a somewhat fair point to point out that the test was using NiCd battery, thus possibly preventing the brushless to fully stretch their legs. Some of that would still apply to the Super Stocks though, which is why NiCd simply doesn't cut it for any motor.

Actually if lipos where used all around, the Zs still be faster. That person even used 8.4v  to quote the "power" of BLs, smoked me for a while before I realised that a RZ will be 32083RPM at 8.4v.

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The bearing upgrade you suggest is a good shout before you start because they are integral to the build. I too did one of these as my first and the most satisfying upgrade as an engineer was changing the front drive shafts and hubs to become proper CV joints because it removes the "clatter" from the standard front dog bones when steering. It can wait though and is easy to retrofit and the car drives fine without them. 

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Just a thank you for everyone's great help and advice, finally managed to get it all built and put together. I found the building experience to be really enjoyable, I think I made a few mistakes but I think I fixed most of them (a lot of screwing and unscrewing). 

 

Messed up the top white part of the decal which I removed (bummed about that) but looking forward to getting her going :D

 

Here are the parts I ended up choosing for it :

 

Ball bearings

Melasta 7.2 V 4200 mAh NiMH Battery 

 HobbyWing QuicRun WP 1060 Brushed ESC

RadioLink RC4GS V2

G-FORCE G0293 GMA465 AC Charger

Tamiya OP.930 Super Stock BZ Motor 

 

272135716_3116468591933796_3692112458029154571_n.jpg

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That’s a good looking car!

No big deal on messing up the decals.  Your body is going to get scratched up as you drive anyways.  This can be your runner body.

Later, you can get a second body and try again. This will be your show off body.

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@SanukiUdonNice work mate! Agree, cool colour choice. I'm tempted from time to time to plump for that BZ motor, how do you rate it?

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