TD OCD - Shims, Mods and Fixes for the TD2/TD4

[matisse 1741]

Figured we need a place to collect mods, fixes, shims etc for the TD chassis cars.

I'll post bits from my build thread as i go along, but lets build a library of ideas!

 

[matisse 1741]

SHIMS

List of the shims used during the build to eliminate slop but keep free movement.

Updated 11/1/22

Front arms - one 3x0.3mm shim each side on inner hinge pin. Outer pin could take 3x0.1mm shim, but insertion is tricky and limited value to it over all.

Front Hub / Steering Knuckle

One 3x0.2mm shim on bottom king pin. Bottom position chosen for ease of fitting.

 

Rear Arms - Aluminium Hingepin Mount

The rear inner hinge pins showed significant play, the Hop-Up hingepin mount eliminates enough that a single 3x0.1mm shim is enough on each side.
 

 

Ball Diffs

The manual already has us install 0.8mm of shims, 2x0.2 on each outdrive but the significant amount of play means many more are needed.

Shim size is:

10mm internal diameter and 12mm external diameter

I used 10x12x0.1 and 10x12x0.2

Found that an extra 0.8mm would fit, 2x0.2 on each outdrive again. But this showed some binding when spinning, so settled on:

Left side: 1x0.2mm + 1x0.1mm 

Right side : 2x0.2mm

An extra 0.7mm of thickness in total.

[matisse 1741]

Servo Modification

Multiple videos have surfaced of a servo modification using the TD2 servo mount positions on the other side of the chassis. Easy thing to do and it eliminates the crank system for the steering.

Parts used: 

2 x Ball Cups (i used low friction just because) & 3x65mm turnbuckle/rod for the steering connection. You'll need an 82mm length in total.

M3 x18mm threaded tube /connecting nut - Accu.com has these for a good price.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/threaded-hexagonal-spacers/464694-HHTPS-M3-5-18-S-Z

As you can see, no issues with clearance if you use the left most hole on the Q part of the Hi-Torque saver as listed in the manual.

 

[matisse 1741]

Ball Stud Weaknesses

We all crash (don't we?) and I for one certainly don't expect any rc car to survive every impact i can throw at it. That said we can def help it along by adding a little strength in key areas.

I've seen some drivers lamenting the weakness of the ball studs on the inner camber links, mostly after a huge smash, so a little extra help here seems in order.

Rear Camber Link 

I'll be using 53969 5x8mm Hard Hex Head Ball Studs, both for the extra material strength and the longer thread. Hoping that this will stop any potential damage to the chassis mounting point

 

Front Camber Link

Decided here to use 9804206 5mm ball connectors as they are bolt through, pics below.

 

Steering Uprights

Decided here to use 9804206 5mm ball connectors again.

 

[Killajb 1688]

Posted this in the What Have You Done Today thread, but figured its also got some merit here.  For those who keep the servo in it's stock location, purchase the alloy servo mounts and still aren't quite satisfied with the servo rocking back-and-forth as it moves the front wheels.  End result takes away the last bit of "wiggle" from the servo and the already very good steering feel is now super direct and more precise.

OCD kicked in while goofing around with my TD4 and I removed the last bit of play in the steering servo by drilling holes in the chassis and using spacers with screws.  (red hardware will be replaced with blue shortly)..

•  

[matisse 1741]

3 hours ago, Killajb said:

Posted this in the What Have You Done Today thread, but figured its also got some merit here.  For those who keep the servo in it's stock location, purchase the alloy servo mounts and still aren't quite satisfied with the servo rocking back-and-forth as it moves the front wheels.  End result takes away the last bit of "wiggle" from the servo and the already very good steering feel is now super direct and more precise.

OCD kicked in while goofing around with my TD4 and I removed the last bit of play in the steering servo by drilling holes in the chassis and using spacers with screws.  (red hardware will be replaced with blue shortly)..

•  

Lovely solution! Nice work!

[Howards 897]

Every time I look at those alloy servo mounts I wince a bit. I reckon they'll snap unless you brace them as per ^^

[matisse 1741]

Updated with Diff shims.

[BelknapCrater 181]

Transverse shorty LiPO-

This requires removal of material, so disregard if that sounds daunting.

I started by removing material from the fastener posts (barrels?) of part A15, both sides:

 

A15 sits at an angle when secured, so remove more material from the bottom, resulting in a taper. I threaded 20 mm Axial set screws in, leaving half the length protruding. I had bought Team Associated thumb nuts (ASC1787) without thinking, and they turned out to be 4-40 threading. I carefully ran my 3 mm tap through it with some oil, and they came out great. Any smaller diameter thumb nuts should work.

I removed material from the sill that overlaps the corresponding receptacle on the tub, along with removed material from the top edge of A15, on the side I intended to access the battery through. This was all so I could angle it in with tall set screws installed. The same effect could be gained by elongating the holes in the tub, but I wanted as much surface area there as possible. The other side is static, so I just left the sill and top edge untouched and used hex screws.

I’m using shorties with 4 mm plugs, so I had to notch the tub a little to clear them. I reduced the diameter of my battery leads by a half millimeter or so. I think a battery with an integrated ESC lead might not work, but anything is possible if you’re brave.

[BelknapCrater 181]

So I've made no secret about my lack of enthusiasm about the stock shell, mainly because people were attaching a lot of sentimentality over the Avante to it, and dismissing the TD4 chassis out of hand just because of it. So I fit an aftermarket shell, and I'm happy with it. But I thought it would be neat to have a Tamiya shell on this chassis, so I started filing. Don't do this if you're squeamish about that, or if you want to try the transverse stick pack option.

I filed the tub sills down to just under 114 mm: 

 

With some judicious trimming, the TRF 201 shell dropped on:

 

 

The back of the tub isn't entirely covered by the shell, but that doesn't bother me so much. It's a runner, not a shelfer:

So in summary, don't bother if you like box art or having every battery option available.

[matisse 1741]

The cabling grommet is so choice. nice work

[EsotericRC 99]

Thanks for this thread. Will be referring back to in the days/weeks to come. My 10YO son will be starting on his 47481 kit this week. It's his first ever RC kit build (which is why I got him the one with the prepainted body) so I will be overseeing/helping whenever he needs help. Gonna have him build it as per the instructions to start, but with a few hop ups that I deemed 100% necessary like the TA06 Gear Diffs (because apparently the aluminum diff nut kits are backordered), front CVD's and a slipper clutch. After the car is built as per the manual, we'll look to improve things like the steering servo placement (planning on running a transverse shorty LiPo pack), etc. Will definitely share anything we do in here if it's pertinent...

[ThunderDragonCy 9098]

For those of you looking to mount at alternative body, i used the bumper posts from the TB EVO 5 body mount and bumper set loads of touring cars use, and screwed them to some spare holes in the tub using 15mm long grub screws. 

Not in any of the exact traditional locations, but with a couple of careful 6mm holes I was able to mount my old mad bull/grasshopper 2 shell easily enough. 

 

 

[BuggyGuy 1144]

Rear arm and hub conversion that can be done with Tamiya parts to allow the use of competition rear wheels (adding to this thread for reference):

 

 

 

[SlideWRX 1074]

On 1/9/2022 at 10:11 PM, Killajb said:

Posted this in the What Have You Done Today thread, but figured its also got some merit here.  For those who keep the servo in it's stock location, purchase the alloy servo mounts and still aren't quite satisfied with the servo rocking back-and-forth as it moves the front wheels.  End result takes away the last bit of "wiggle" from the servo and the already very good steering feel is now super direct and more precise.

OCD kicked in while goofing around with my TD4 and I removed the last bit of play in the steering servo by drilling holes in the chassis and using spacers with screws.  (red hardware will be replaced with blue shortly)..

•  

I'm getting an error on these pics.

[ThunderDragonCy 9098]

Spotted a battered astute body on ebay for cheap so got it to see if it might work on a TD

 

In the ongoing How Yo Make A TD4 Look Better I spotted a battered astute body on ebay for cheap so I bought it to try

 

It's not a great fit as the TD tub flares out sooner than the astute body, but I think it shows potential. Hopefully one of the body shell makers sees this and gets inspiration! A stretched Astute style body designed to properly fit the tub would look really cool I think. 

[lele12 14]

On 1/7/2022 at 3:33 PM, matisse said:

Servo Modification

Multiple videos have surfaced of a servo modification using the TD2 servo mount positions on the other side of the chassis. Easy thing to do and it eliminates the crank system for the steering.

Parts used: 

2 x Ball Cups (i used low friction just because) & 3x65mm turnbuckle/rod for the steering connection. You'll need an 82mm length in total.

M3 x18mm threaded tube /connecting nut - Accu.com has these for a good price.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/threaded-hexagonal-spacers/464694-HHTPS-M3-5-18-S-Z

As you can see, no issues with clearance if you use the left most hole on the Q part of the Hi-Torque saver as listed in the manual.

 

Hi all

I want to put the servo on the right side as in TD2 

I wish to know in which position put the servo connector when the servo is in neutral.

 

Can I use the original servo mount on the right? 

 

Thanks 

[matisse 1741]

On 3/25/2023 at 12:31 PM, BuggyGuy said:

Rear arm and hub conversion that can be done with Tamiya parts to allow the use of competition rear wheels (adding to this thread for reference):

 

 

 

Any reason the XV01 hubs and not the DB01?

[BuggyGuy 1144]

10 hours ago, matisse said:

Any reason the XV01 hubs and not the DB01?

The XV01 item gives you slightly more choice for roll centre adjustment and is easier to find in stock + you can get a carbon reinforced version easily.

The DB01 version would work - but it's a rarish item these days.

The best item to use is the TRF201 aluminium rear hub if you can find them.

[bRIBEGuy 3414]

As I'm finishing up my TD2 build, one thing I noticed was that the front upper link length seems to be off (IMO).  Following the recommended 27mm spacing shown in the manual (okay, so I was off a bit... ), yielded me close to 2 degrees of POSITIVE camber. 

Something to keep an eye on...

[Elbowloh 1486]

Are there any alternative / 3rd party bodies that will the TD2?

[Twinfan 2460]

Check out Revive RC.

[Carmine A 3137]

Try not to beat me up.... (I'm already in Hospital)

BUT..... do I absolutely HAVE to run a low profile servo? 🤔😮 I've got so many good full sized servos at home. Of course I realise the performance penalty, but mine will be a light Desert basher, not a competition buggy.

[Twinfan 2460]

3 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

Try not to beat me up.... (I'm already in Hospital)

BUT..... do I absolutely HAVE to run a low profile servo? 🤔😮 I've got so many good full sized servos at home. Of course I realise the performance penalty, but mine will be a light Desert basher, not a competition buggy.

Yes you do, it's all to do with how the servo fits into the chassis and how the steering linkages work.

[Carmine A 3137]

1 hour ago, Twinfan said:

Yes you do, it's all to do with how the servo fits into the chassis and how the steering linkages work.

Okay..... I overdrew my checking account, some. I don't want to be held back when I get home.....