Tamiya Cascadia - MFC-03 Installation

[timatc 3]

Hi Everyone,

I am looking at getting the MFC-03 for my Tamiya Cascadia. I know that this MFC is for the "European style" trucks, however, I feel from what I have heard it sounds better and has some minor additional functions that I want such as independent indicators.

Just wondering if this is compatible with the Cascadia? I saw something in the instructions stating that when using the MFC-03 unit, a rear LED needs to be hidden - can anyone please shed any light on what this is or what should be done?

Cheers!

[Mad Ax 9325]

The MFC-03 does indeed have some slightly nicer features and is generally nicer to use, in my experience.  The difference is very minor but noticeable, especially if you have a truck with each and you switch between them regularly.  The main thing I notice is how much smoother the 03 is in general operation, the 01 feels jerky by comparison, although perhaps that's a difference in my radio sets.  Anyway, with the MFC-03, you can rev the engine without driving, you can crank the engine over without it starting, and you can trigger the indicators to start flashing before you get to a corner, and they'll self-cancel after you finish steering.  On the 01 they come on when you input steering lock and turn off when you stop turning, so they'll come on and off all the time if you're doing a complicated parking manoeuvre (I tend to put my hazard indicators on for that).  Also the 03 has teachable gear positions so the gear changes are more precise, with the 01 you have to set the gear select pushrod length carefully to get reliable shifts.

The engine sound on the 03 is recorded from a European engine (I think a 6 cylinder) so arguably isn't the right sound for an American rig, but then again the 01 doesn't replicate a Detroit Diesel either, which is the only diesel motor worth replicating, so the point is moot.  If you're happy with the engine sound, there's no reason why you can't put it in a Cascadia.  If memory serves, the MFC-01 actually has Euro-style rear lamps (orange turn signals and red brake and tail lights), so I think if you install the brake and turn signal LEDs as per the instructions it will all be fine.  I think the MFC-03 has a reversing light and rear fog light, it's possible that the Cascadia doesn't have a place for the LEDs for these in the rear bumper - that's OK, you just don't plug the LEDs into the ports for those lights, no need to hide anything (check the instructions to be sure though, I don't have a Cascadia).

Otherwise, there's absolutely no reason why the MFC-03 can't fit in the Cascadia.

However - before you buy, consider some limitations with the MFC (01 and 03) that aren't immediately apparent:

• the engine sound isn't changeable (in fact none of the sounds are, apart from possibly a horn or indicator flash sound which you can select in the setup), so if you don't like the engine sound, you're stuck with it
• for some reason, Tamiya insist on a ticking indicator sound - I don't know why, you wouldn't normally hear it from outside a real truck, I think it sounds silly and you can't turn it off
• the built-in functionality is good, but apart from being able to control a servo or second ESC via the remote trailer legs port, you can't expand it.  If you want to add more functions later, you'll have to change systems or add a completely separate system
• the brake/reverse function can be annoying and difficult to drive.  The brakes are strong and come on quickly, but if you release the brake and re-apply the truck will immediately go into reverse, which could make it jack-knife or run into someone else's truck.  My club layout has a flyover with steep ramps - if I let the truck roll down it will go too fast, if I pull the brake on once it will come to a complete stop, if I release the brake it will start rolling again, if I brake again it will spin the wheels backwards and slide into the barrier

For these reasons, I prefer Beier modules.  They are a little more expensive once you add all the extra bits to need to get wired up, you have to wire up your LED looms yourself so there's a lot more installation work, and there's a lot more setup work to do in the PC-based application to get it running how you want, but the features make it worth it.  You can select US-style turn signals (full red rear lights, flash for turn signal, glow for tail lights, on for brakes), throttle profiles, all manner of different sounds and other functions.  And of course you can have any engine sound you want (provided you invest the time to set it up).  If you're not happy with wiring stuff then the Tamiya unit is definitely the way to go but it's always worth checking other options before you buy  

[Carmine A 2046]

I second @Mad Ax on the Beier. They're a bit tricky to figure out at first... but once you get it, it's EASY. But because of Beier, I've got a KW with a Cummins Engine sound, a Peterbilt Cabover with a 400hp CAT Engine sound, and about to have a Mercedes 8X4 Tipper with a Mercedes V8! 

Added "bonus", I can also make my Drivers Burp and Fart at will!! 🤪🤣  My Grandbabies love it. OK..... so do I 😝

[timatc 3]

Thanks @Mad Ax and @Carmine A. I think at this stage, I'll stick with the MFC-03 - I can source one "fairly" cheap; here in Australia, with our exchange rates at the moment and supply / shipping issues, the Beier parts are very expensive.

So far, I have updated the default Tamiya 540 motor to the Carson Poison - and what a difference it has made! I gather that this should also play nicely with the MFC unit - from what I gather anything from 25 - 80+ motor turns is fine for that unit?

I currently have a 3000mAh NiMH battery, what sort of runtime should I expect with sounds running approx? Would 5000mAh yeild any benefits in terms of significant improved longevity?

[Mad Ax 9325]

16 hours ago, timatc said:

So far, I have updated the default Tamiya 540 motor to the Carson Poison - and what a difference it has made!

...

I currently have a 3000mAh NiMH battery, what sort of runtime should I expect with sounds running approx? Would 5000mAh yeild any benefits in terms of significant improved longevity?

I use the Carson Poison in my trucks too, it's a brilliant torquey motor and will run absolutely fine with an MFC or a Beier system.

A 3000mAh battery should give plenty of runtime.  I use 3000s on my MFC trucks, I tend to switch the trucks on at the start of the day and leave them on all day long.  OK, so I'm not physically driving them all day, but often I don't have to change battery until near the end of the day.  It really depends on how fast you're driving (we drive pretty slow on the layouts), what gear you're in (we lock our rigs into 1st gear*) and how much weight you're pulling on the trailer.  LED lights don't draw much current but having the MFC sound turned up loud will drain your battery quicker and running the vibration unit (I haven't fitted mine, I don't like them) will drain it quicker.

*a not well documented feature of the MFCs - throttle response is adjusted for gears 1, 2 and 3, so even if you lock the gearbox into a single gear, the truck still drives differently as you switch through the gears on the transmitter.  I much prefer driving this way, 3rd gear is way too fast even with an 80 turn truck motor.  Our club layouts are small and tight and some rigs have got seriously expensive paint jobs, last thing you want is someone losing control and crashing into another truck.  Locking the transmission into 1st gear restricts the speed and also reduces fatigue having to constantly hold the throttle stick over to the left all the time  

[timatc 3]

Another question I have with this - I have ordered the MFC unit, so just awaiting delivery, so are availing myself to the instructions.

The reciever unit connects to the MFC device via 4x input cables to handle shifting, steering, throttle and the trailer hitch lock. I gather all of these need to be connected, even if you are not using the trailer hitch so the unit calibrates correctly?

What controls the light functions from the reciever then? I have a Futaba 4YWD, and it looks like the trims on the controller do this, so assume specific combinations trigger the various light functions based on their position at the time on the controller?

[topforcein 1764]

you will have a function on the mfu control switch unit for the lights to use manually 

and with the futaba witch i brought for my first one also you are correct you will need to move the trims and what not tbh that way can be a faf i soon swoped to my spektrum 

the cables only really need to be connect'd if you use the plan on used all the features but install the mfu whilest the build is taking place if possible as it is a lot easyer

when calibrating you will only move both sticks they way they will be used

[Carmine A 2046]

On 1/8/2022 at 11:31 PM, Mad Ax said:

........ also reduces fatigue having to constantly hold the throttle stick over to the left all the time  

And that's why I always use the 3 position Switch to shift Gears!! 😉

[Mad Ax 9325]

4 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

And that's why I always use the 3 position Switch to shift Gears!! 😉

me too, at least on my FlySky transmitter that has a 3-position switch.  I don't even run that channel via the Beier, I only use it so I have the option of taller overall gearing if I need it, generally I don't.  The Beier simulates gearshifts well enough.

My MFU-powered rig uses the Futaba 4YWD Tx which doesn't have a 3-position switch, I've just locked the servo in place to keep it in 1st gear.

To the OP @timatc - yes, as @topforcein says, you operate the lights and other functions from the transmitter by sliding the trim tabs around.  It's a bit confusing to get your head around but it gets easier with practice.  Stuff you need while moving (like indicators, flashing headlights and sounding the horn) is all done without trim tabs, if you want to change headlight settings or switch to trailer leg mode or shut off the engine or whatever then you do that while stopped so it's not a big deal to move the trims around.  Or if you have a digital transmitter you can set it up to work off the switches.