Hard body paint repair tips?

[OnTheTrail 1152]

Had a brain fart the other evening.  For some reason I thought acetone would be a good idea to remove a little spot of wet epoxy off the sunroof of my freshly painted Sand Scorcher.  

Anyone have any tips to repair a fresh paint surface on a hardbody?   No damage to the body, just a fairly noticeable indent down to the primer.   I guess wet sand and build it back up with layers?  Also, I assume I don't want to mask off where it leaves a line?  Or do I and then just wet sand the line away?   

[Willy iine 18806]

Sorry to see.  Next time try some micro mesh sticks in assorted coarseness for spot repairs. 

For that, you’re going to need to sand (possibly putty and sand to even out the paint height) and paint if you’re going for a clean finish, unfortunately.    

You can mask in sections where there are parting lines and get away with spot spraying, but to blend mid-panel takes a bit more expertise to even out the new and existing paint especially if gloss.   If that is matte paint then you can probably spot spray from a distance and be able to blend it.  GL..

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

As Willy said, it is quite difficult if you are not a skilled modeller (please don't take this the wrong way) and can take a lot of work. I will suggest a strip and repaint, which can be quicker and easier for you.

[KEV THE REV 2319]

Is this still in primer coat ?

[OnTheTrail 1152]

1 hour ago, KEV THE REV said:

Is this still in primer coat ?

No, it's TS gun metal.   Low gloss and yes, it does look like primer in a way.    Was a little worried myself till I didt the other colors and decals.   

[KEV THE REV 2319]

As said before,  it is tricky , but is doable . If you don't want to strip the roof then once the paint has cooked you can flat back and spot fill the dips , then flatten and mask the roof under the gutter line and prime  . The f &r pillars can be smoked in with top coat if you are careful to keep the primer away from the rear of the roof with a loose masking . I would use a sheet of paper hovered above the rear of the roof. I would mask the windows on the inside of the shell too on the primer coat.

[OnTheTrail 1152]

Thanks for the advise gentlemen.  I have to grab another can of paint from my LHS later this week so I'll start the fun and learn along the way.   

I also may look at the possibility of adding a stripe the the roof to match the matte black on the fenders and the hood embosses.  

[alvinlwh 5895]

3 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

No, it's TS gun metal.   

Metallic paint will be harder to patch and match. I will not say impossible in case you are some kind of master modeller and I have to eat my words. 

BTW, what did you prime it with? The "correct" primer for metallic paint is black not gray. 

[OnTheTrail 1152]

The TS-48 is not a metallic.   It's called Gun Metal or Gun Ship gray.  Sorry for the confusion.   Since it's a darker color, I used Tamiya fine surface primer in oxide red.   

[alvinlwh 5895]

5 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

The TS-48 is not a metallic.   It's called Gun Metal or Gun Ship gray.  Sorry for the confusion.   Since it's a darker color, I used Tamiya fine surface primer in oxide red.   

This one? 

OK, flat and non metallic, much easier to match into existing paint. The usual sand and feather into existing paint will be the standard advice. The only problem I see is, I assume you are spraying straight from the can, so layers are very thick, quite noticeably so, and getting the layers consistent within a confined area and not affecting existing good paint is the problem. Think Willy's suggestion of redoing a panel, if possible, will be the easiest way. 

Mask off affected area. Sand down to plastic or primer, whichever is good enough. Respray the sanded area till almost same thickness of existing good paint. Remove masking and spray finish coat. 

[OnTheTrail 1152]

I have an inexpensive air brush.  I wonder if I decant the TS paint and use that to build up only in the feathered area would be better?

[alvinlwh 5895]

37 minutes ago, OnTheTrail said:

I have an inexpensive air brush.  I wonder if I decant the TS paint and use that to build up only in the feathered area would be better?

Oh yes, definitely as you can far better control the thickness with an airbrush and feather easier.

If you need a guide on how to decant spray paint...

 

[OnTheTrail 1152]

Thanks!

[OnTheTrail 1152]

Thanks all for the suggestions.   Got it all fixed.  Turned out really well for my first HB repair.  Only issue is the gap around sunroof isn't perfect but this is going to be my runner body so not sure why I'm even fussing!  LOL

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, OnTheTrail said:

Thanks all for the suggestions.   Got it all fixed.  Turned out really well for my first HB repair.  Only issue is the gap around sunroof isn't perfect but this is going to be my runner body so not sure why I'm even fussing!  LOL

You have a plastic scorer? You can try scoring it out .If you cannot be bothered, take a marker/fineliner , for that I think 0.2 or 0.3mm, and draw in the panel line.

[KEV THE REV 2319]

4 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

Thanks all for the suggestions.   Got it all fixed.  Turned out really well for my first HB repair.  Only issue is the gap around sunroof isn't perfect but this is going to be my runner body so not sure why I'm even fussing!  LOL

Looks fine . I had to go back to the original pics of the marks to see where they were . Nice job and as said by alvinlwh you could put the lines back in if did bother you

[OnTheTrail 1152]

LOL, went back to the original photo and the panel lines were not perfect back there as well.  I may try the line marker for giggles.  

 

[Willy iine 18806]

On mine I have the top lid slid open, but I did sand it quite a bit on both the lid and opening to make it even and straight.  I also painted the sides black on both the lid and opening.  The entire mold on this car is pretty bad.. but with patience it can look quite nice.

[KEV THE REV 2319]

Very nice - great colour blue on there and I like the plain nose with no blue inserts

[KEV THE REV 2319]

 

On 1/27/2022 at 1:53 PM, OnTheTrail said:

Thanks all for the suggestions.   Got it all fixed.  Turned out really well for my first HB repair.  Only issue is the gap around sunroof isn't perfect but this is going to be my runner body so not sure why I'm even fussing!  LOL

What method did you use to repair and paint in the end ?

[OnTheTrail 1152]

3 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:

 

What method did you use to repair and paint in the end ?

I guess I should have taken some photos....sorry.    I wet sanded the effected areas all the way down to the bare surface with varying wet sand paper, leaving it feathered back to the finished paint.  I think between 400 and 1200...???.    I sprayed in the primer with a cheap airbrush trying only to fill the repair area and even tried to spray thin as I got to the feathered transition.   (big and frustrating leaning curve with the air brush.....  )  "Very" gently wet sanded the primer after it completely dried.   

Then I taped off the two side molds indentations on roof and then loosely put some tape about mid way on the front and back windows.  They were held away from the front and rear pillars by the tape along the roof sides.  The idea was to make sure there was no discernable line but the tape would protect other areas that were not the TS-48.   No intension of spraying close the these areas but just being over cautious I guess.  Using the airbrush again, I sprayed the primered area with with decanted TS-48, trying leave a little over spray out beyond the feather and onto the finished surface.    Gently wet sanded that few days later (1200 or 1500) and then sprayed almost the entire top again with the air brush with a thin coat making sure to lift the brush as I got toward the edges.  

Never thought to remove the rear body attachment screws so they got a light coat of finished color which I always intended to do anyway somewhere along the way. 

 

Thanks again to all for your suggestions on this repair!

 

 

[KEV THE REV 2319]

It worked out well