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Ineptus_Mechanicus

Super Hotshot Re-Re - Any ideas for chassis reinforcement, gearbox strengthening welcome.

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Hey folks, I recently built my first real R/C car  - a Super Hotshot Re-Re. It's great! Plenty fast, turns okayish, etc.

However.

My dad heard about this. He's competitive. He's buying a Mugen Seiki buggy, which will be faster than the Super Hotshot.

THIS WILL NOT STAND.

However, I'm running into some problems. There's not a great amount of support for the Super Hotshot, and while I can do without the fancy metal suspension arms, There's a pretty clear problem with the chassis; the screws that go into the back of the mech box, that hold the carbon battery support on, are showing signs of stressing the plastic. I've driven the thing for ten minutes or so, on flat concrete. The solution is more structural support there, but no aftermarket products exist for that, as far as I can tell. I'd prefer to do something about it before the little ******* tears itself in half coming off a jump.

Speaking of things being torn in half, the differentials and related gearing for the driveshaft. They seem to do fine with the GT-Tuned motor that comes with the kit, and I'm sure they'll do fine with the BZ motor I've ordered. However, I'm not so sure about their longevity when they have to deal with a TBLM-02S, or the Octa-Wind I really really REALLY want to stick in there. I know there's the Super Ball diff, but I'm still worried about the plastic gears being forced to withstand that much force. I'd rather not be replacing stripped or blown-apart gears every time I run it but I haven't found anything that could help so far.

The last part here is the motor/ESC. This kit came with a TBLE-04S, which is plenty good enough for everything up to and including the TBLM-02S. What do I use with the Octa-Wind, assuming I actually install it?

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There isn’t anything you could do to get a vintage style 1/10 buggy anywhere near as capable as a 1/8 Mugen Seiki (or any other modern 1/8) Buggy. My recommendation would be to enjoy the Super for what it is, rather than trying to make it something it isn’t. 

If you want to beat him, get a 1/8 Mugen Truggy (wider and longer) than the Buggy and show him who’sboss 😎

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11 minutes ago, mtbkym01 said:

There isn’t anything you could do to get a vintage style 1/10 buggy anywhere near as capable as a 1/8 Mugen Seiki (or any other modern 1/8) Buggy. My recommendation would be to enjoy the Super for what it is, rather than trying to make it something it isn’t. 

If you want to beat him, get a 1/8 Mugen Truggy (wider and longer) than the Buggy and show him who’sboss 😎

 

Bleh. I don't like getting the 'latest and greatest' thing. It's just not as fun as using old stuff, and the Super Hotshot definitely looks cooler than anything MS puts out. If I could get metal gears for the Super Hotshot I could seal both units with RTV and put some very lightweight oil in them, and that would solve the SpUD (Spontaneous Unplanned Disassembly) problem, but there's just... nothing for this car out there, apart from what little support the regular Hotshot gets.

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Changing up from gt tuned to super stock bz motor is a major speed boost. I found the gt tuned to only be a tad quicker than a silver can. See how that goes first. If you use a smaller pinion it may be ok with the 02s speedo. Mine has been fine on tarmac running.

The drivetrain is really tough so I wouldn’t be too worried about it for most motors. An octowind is a step too far for these cars… the super stock or use brushless with your 02s e.g 13.5 or a Tamiya 10.5 with fan is the limit I’d reckon.

are you using a lipo battery? The 02s speedo will need a lipo alarm, but you’ll get best speed out of a lipo.

you also need different tyres as the stock ones and wheels get destroyed in minutes. A set of grippy tyres will help more than anything else.

Not sure how you assembled the chassis but it’s pretty tough within its limits unless you keep opening up the electrics section and the screw heads wear out, or over tightening or the screws.

as above though, there is a limit of the car relative to how a 1/8 car is constructed.

 

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6 hours ago, Ineptus_Mechanicus said:

 

Bleh. I don't like getting the 'latest and greatest' thing. It's just not as fun as using old stuff, and the Super Hotshot definitely looks cooler than anything MS puts out. If I could get metal gears for the Super Hotshot I could seal both units with RTV and put some very lightweight oil in them, and that would solve the SpUD (Spontaneous Unplanned Disassembly) problem, but there's just... nothing for this car out there, apart from what little support the regular Hotshot gets.

FYI, MIP makes upgraded ball diffs for the Hot Shot series of cars. I used them on a Big Wig project and are fantastic. But you must remember these vintage chassis can only be pushed so far. Since there is no slipper clutch, and limited gearing choices, a 10.5 brushless motor is about all you can safely run without melt down.

 If you want something vintage that can sort of run with the new stuff, why not look at a Kyosho re-re?  Turbo Optima, Javelin....and the holly grail, Optima mid is being released in a few months.

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17 hours ago, Hobbimaster said:

FYI, MIP makes upgraded ball diffs for the Hot Shot series of cars. I used them on a Big Wig project and are fantastic. But you must remember these vintage chassis can only be pushed so far. Since there is no slipper clutch, and limited gearing choices, a 10.5 brushless motor is about all you can safely run without melt down.

 If you want something vintage that can sort of run with the new stuff, why not look at a Kyosho re-re?  Turbo Optima, Javelin....and the holly grail, Optima mid is being released in a few months.

 

Well...

EVERYTHING Kyosho 4WD buggy is sold out and on backorder, looks like for a while. I doo want one, but I also want to upgrade the Hotshot because I like it.

So, I'm going to try to run the 8.5T octa-wind. If the gearbox explodes, whatever, spend $13 on gears and put it back together. Not a big deal. I've bought a steel pinion to try and alleviate the problems that the aluminum ones cause. And HOLD THE FRICKIN' PHONE BECAUSE I JUST FOUND A CHASSIS UPGRADE KIT! https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?hl=en&q=tamiya+hotshot+aluminum+chassis&prds=epd:4713881910118278468,eto:4713881910118278468_0,pid:4713881910118278468&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwib5arVvLj1AhXzHjQIHfUtA1oQ9pwGCAk

Also trying to figure out how to use the Venom Pro Duo charger. Won't let me use the Auto program with my NiMH batteries so I'm keeping it it safe with 2A charging for 5000mAh batteries.

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The super stock and Lipo (if you can change to them) will make the car so much faster than a gt tuned and a Nimh!! Even before thinking about that 8 turn motor.

the car is quite high as it’s an old style proper off road- so it will grip roll and mid air 1080 flips with some power put through it. You’ll need to get it lower with spacers in the shocks. Will make it look even more mean and aggressive though!!

 

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Anyone have any recommendations for tires, and where I can buy them? And a non-aluminum 13t pinion, as well. Traxxas 3943X is fine for now but doesn't seem to have as much engagement as the stock gear.

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So how did you do on your battle with your dad's car? LoL

I putting Super Stock RZ into my Super HS this weekend. 

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Just grease and shim the differentials as tight as possible without bulging the cases, with a Tamiya shim kit. for the screw holes You could put Heli coils in but I did find the plastic to be thinner than older kits from the 80s and my hotshot is cracked at the screwholes in the battery mount also(always been that way) and its 38 years ago I bought it. 10 turn Hobbywing type motor that uses a 380 size rotor in a 540 size case,the older blue type is as fast as You will need and much more easy on gears and still has good top end with ripping the gears out prematurely !

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