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alvinlwh

3Racing M4 (no longer mystery BOX 2 but Suzuki Swift Supersport 1600)

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4 minutes ago, M 800STD said:

Don't know about your double clicking balls.

All my cars balls and eyes go on with one placement.  I would suggest choosing the the click value that does not bind.

Here is an example of "double clicked" balls on the top of the shocks. They sit on the neck rather than the ball, so they don't rotate. I just want to check if there is a "correct" method. 

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6 minutes ago, M 800STD said:

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Use low profile nuts.  Non nylock.

I have serrated, just that this is a trim and check run, which I will eventually replace with the kit wheels and nuts. Everything actually came off soon after. Even the trim is probably not going to stay long, as soon as the low profile servo comes, the stand sized one is coming out and another trim run will probably be needed. 

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If both positions on your balls have no play and are not binding, I would select the position that puts the tie rod into the closest horizontal position.

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18 minutes ago, M 800STD said:

If both positions on your balls have no play and are not binding, I would select the position that puts the tie rod into the closest horizontal position.

OK will try them out. 

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Home run now, Bag 9, last bag. 

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Step 11 - Front and Rear Body Posts Assembly 

The body posts positions are very different from the Tamiya M chassis ones. Instead of using the usual clips, I will be using magnetic mounts for this instead. 

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Wheels on and it is done. I had copied what M 800STD and mtbkym01 did and moved the servo to the top of servo. This gives me enough room to move the ESC across to behind the servo. This still does not give much room for a bigger pinion, maybe enough to use a 28T max. Also relocated the aerial support to the upper deck instead of the annoying position with the bottom screw position above the servo which makes installation very difficult. I have about a hair breath (1mm) clearance between the belt and servo mount, bench tests seems to be fine but I will be getting a spare belt when I make my next 3R order. It is blowing a force 7 out there now, so not possible to have a test run. Moving the ESC away from behind the battery allows a Lipo alarm (no LV cut off on this ESC) behind the battery. It also reduces the number of wires crossing the drive belt to just the battery.

All these are just temporarily though and everything are held down with cheap weak tape instead of the good 3M stuff as I will be installing a low profile servo and when I am used to the chassis, a brushless. 

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@M 800STD

@mtbkym01

In your view, do you think it is a good idea to seal off these bottom holes to prevent dirt ingress to the gears? I run on unprepared surface where the will be some loose bits around. 

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@alvinlwh I wouldn’t be too concerned, I haven’t done much running though. You could always try and see if it helps or hinders I guess

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4 hours ago, SupraChrgd82 said:

It could keep the chunks out.  Or it could trap the chunks in.  

I did think about that and it will not just be a piece of tape slapped down as the exposed sticky side will trap stuff. If they are to be covered up, it has to be a plasticard or something with double sided tape around the edges. Will have to consider this some more. 

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12 hours ago, M 800STD said:

@SupraChrgd82  This might help.

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Is that a better setting? Mine is not the Pro and the settings on my sheet is quite different in most items. 

Also, thanks for your tip about sway bars, I also reset my MG Evo one correct based on that video. 

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Yeah, I’m not sure about covering the chassis cut outs either.  Mine are left open.

Regarding tuning, it sound like we are both running on asphalt.  The factory set up is geared more toward carpet (or a smooth high traction surface).  Both the Pro and Sport are virtually identical, so that set up sheet is a brilliant place to start. The positions indicated in the sheet are indicative of all the other online tuning guides. I’ll definitely re-fit all the bits on my car to the positions shown in that set up sheet.  Thank you, M800STD!

 

https://site.petitrc.com/reglages/RC_HandbookV3-4.pdf

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11 minutes ago, SupraChrgd82 said:

Regarding tuning, it sound like we are both running on asphalt.  The factory set up is geared more toward carpet (or a smooth high traction surface).  Both the Pro and Sport are virtually identical, so that set up sheet is a brilliant place to start. 

The sheet for my M4 (regular) is for the same conditions as the Pro sheet but the values for the settings are different even if both chassis are identical. Are you saying the Pro sheet settings are better? If yes, I am going to print it out and get adjusting. 

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The Pro set up sheet is biased toward asphalt more-so than the Sport instruction manual.  I initially set mine up as the instructions show, then began adjusting in the direction of the Pro set up sheet.  Adjustments did yield better handling, particularly the soft damper oil and removal of the rear sway bar (I run on smooth dusty asphalt).  I had not gone the full direction of the Pro sheet, as I had no idea that the upper tie rod mounts could be flipped amongst other adjustments.

Here’s my theory - Tamiya M-chassis are directed towards the average person to drive on common substrates such as parking lots.  3racing is a more race-oriented kit geared to people who visit tracks with prepared surfaces, so the baseline is a track set up.  In mimicking the set up I observe in the Tamiya kits I have found that the Sport handled a little better with each adjustment.  Unless I crash into trash cans; that didn’t help me any.  

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11 minutes ago, SupraChrgd82 said:

The Pro set up sheet is biased toward asphalt more-so than the Sport instruction manual.  I initially set mine up as the instructions show, then began adjusting in the direction of the Pro set up sheet.  Adjustments did yield better handling, particularly the soft damper oil and removal of the rear sway bar (I run on smooth dusty asphalt).  I had not gone the full direction of the Pro sheet, as I had no idea that the upper tie rod mounts could be flipped amongst other adjustments.

Here’s my theory - Tamiya M-chassis are directed towards the average person to drive on common substrates such as parking lots.  3racing is a more race-oriented kit geared to people who visit tracks with prepared surfaces, so the baseline is a track set up.  In mimicking the set up I observe in the Tamiya kits I have found that the Sport handled a little better with each adjustment.  Unless I crash into trash cans; that didn’t help me any.  

Right... Time to dump the damper oil out. And put in some softer ones. I actually put in some heavier ones than supplied as I was concerned that soft dampers may cause it to bottom out even more. 

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On 1/21/2022 at 5:34 PM, SupraChrgd82 said:

I believe SAK-U421/V3 is the direct aluminum replacement for the center pulleys, as they are the parts used on the M4 Pro model.

Just an update, the SAK-U421/V3 will not work as there is a lip around where the bearings go into the hub making them impossible (too wide, rubbing) to fit into the pulley mounts. However on the plus side, even after a few spur changes, the original plastic parts seem to be holding up fine. 

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