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[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

The only shaft driven cars I have are x2 1/8 IC and a TA02.  The rest are belts, my favourite.

The design of this car looks so similar to my Yokomo BD8.

If you like fast cars, you will enjoy this.

 

Do you have set-up station?

[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

This looks clean enough, from what I can see.  I've never damaged gears due to debris, not saying it couldn't happen.  As for the chassis, get a protector.

I collect bodies, GT1s, as chassis design has not changed much.

Set-up stations are great.  You'll be surprised how good you can make the car handle with one of these and how far out you are from using instruction specs.  Also have corner weight system.

 

 

[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

Just get a generic one and cut to shape.

TONISPORT channel on youtube has some good set-up info and information on suspension angle settings.

 

 

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

Stick the Rx on top of servo.

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

Mine...

[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

They are actually both equal. 

Both left and right rods vertical as possible, then followed this method...

 

 

[M 800STD]

Corner weight system will also help you dial in your shocks.

[SupraChrgd82]

I’m quite interested in seeing your tuning results.  My car has never been dialed in completely, just slowly improving.

The first M-chassis I drove was the M07R which is absolutely spectacular. It’s very neutral and supremely predictable.  It is the basis for which I compare the M4 Sport.  In theory the 4wd chassis should be superior, but I’m struggling with it.

My M4 currently has YR click-adjustable dampers with Tamiya soft oil, all on the M4 OEM springs and softest setting.  The tops are mounted in the furthest inboard holes.  The rear sway bar is removed to gain more rear traction, front sway bar has ends all the way out for minimal tension.  Tires are Tamiya M-grip, also tried the Tamiya/RIDE SC-36M set. There’s -1 degree camber on all corners and 2 degrees rear toe. The motor is a 17.5t HobbyWing brushless.  I’ve replaced most of the steel components with Al and Ti to lighten it up even though it has a NiMH pack.  
Cornering traction is nominal so I’m continually trying to find more grip on the asphalt. Oversteer is somewhat inconsistent as is rear kick out. 

Quite eager to hear of every else’s trials and tribulations with the M4….

[mtbkym01]

6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

@mtbkym01 do you mind some closeup of how you fit your sway bars, the end connectors to the drop down to the suspension. How much should the sway bar stick out? The instructions is not clear on it. Also, if I screw the grab screws at the ball bearings to "only touching" as per the instructions, the thing will just fall apart. Surely that's not right? Have to tighten mine right down.

Also, do you find the lack of space to fit electronics a pain? It is impossible to fit electronics as instructed. I do notice you fit your Rx on the servo plate and may have to copy that. Also, when my low profile arrives, it should free up a few more mms. 

I will attempt to get some pics tomorrow 

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[M 800STD]

6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

1. How firm should the grab screws be? I believe they hold the bearings which hold the bar in position. If I set according to the instructions, just touching, they will all just fall out. 

 

Move them a little more, ensuring no binding.

6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

2. This is probably a stupid question, how "deep" should the eye go into the ball? On Tamiya, I used to do this and since discovered that they can be pressed down further, double click if you will, and that removes all play. I tried "double click" on the MG Evo I built and it caused binding instead. 

 

Don't know about your double clicking balls.

All my cars balls and eyes go on with one placement.  I would suggest choosing the the click value that does not bind.