Jump to content
whahooo

Solid Axle Monstertrucks comparison

Recommended Posts

Hello fello TC Members!

 

I would  love to start a Solid Axle Monstertruck Comparison of different available Trucks with their Pros an cons.

I would love it to have an "out of the Box" opinion and an opinion of the Trucks with a "moddingsetup" or different "moddingsetups.
I would love to geather compact Info about the Price and "must have" Hop Ups.

 

Also i do not know what Solid axle Monstertrucks are on the Market right now and what scale they are, are they 1:12, 1:10 or 1:8?

 

The Trucks i`m aware of are:

Tamiya TXT 1

Tamiya TXT 2  Agrios

Tamiya Juggernaut

Tamiya Clodbuster

HPI Wheelie King

Kyosho USA-1

Kyosho Mad Force

Losi LMT

Axial SMT 10

MST - MTX-1

CEN HL150

 

 

I didn`t hear about the CEN HL 150  until the last Thread about it.

I would love a Monstertruck that is alittlebit more capable, more rigid and faster than my Clod with it`s Mods, but has the same Scale.
I love the look of the MST MTX 1 but it`s a 1:12 Monstertruck and seems to be quite stiff.

I would love to have an Agrios, but they are way to expensive and not as capable as an axial or the Losi Truck.

 

The Axials and the Losis are to expensive for me and the CEN Truck is way to stiff, but it has all the features that i would like in a Truck (8 shocks, Anti Sway Bar, a Tube Frame Chassis, lots of Speed, etc.).

 

 

When someone has good Expierences with one of the Chassis ore if i have some chassis not mentioned, i can put them in the first Post for a accurat Comparrision.

 

For Instance:

 

Clodbuster out of the Box:

spacer.png

 

Scale: 1:10

Speed: on the slow side

Offroad ability: not very capable because of the factory pogo style shocks and the cener mount Servo

Modding ability: You can mod the H*ll out of it - plenty of Hop Ups and aftermarket Parts available, different chassis, other 4 Links etc.

Shocks: 4 friction Pogo Sticks - easily changable to 4 or 8 oilshocks from 100 to 120mms

Servo: Mounted on the Chassis, the steering Force is not very goot transfered to the Axles - but you can 

Steering: 4 Wheel steering with single servo (easily moddable to Servo on axle)

Motors: 2 standard 27Turn silvercan Motors

Drivetrain: Motors mounted on Axles, the Gearbox is very very durable

Body: Comes with an hardplastic 80s chevroletstyle Body

Weight: 8.60 lb (3900 g) and approx 4350 g

Length: 18.90 in (480 mm)

Width: 14.96 in (380 mm)

Height: 13.50 in (340 mm)

Wheelbase: 10.63 in (270 mm)

Battery: 7,2v NiMh Packs or 8,4 V NiMh Packs, also Lipos in the right Case

Pros: Iconic, cheap in Stock Form, plenty of aftermarket Parts and Modability

Cons: verry old Design, noot very capable in Stock Form, expensive if you begin to mod and buy Aftermarket Parts

Anti Sway Bar: No

 

 

SMT10:

 

spacer.png

Pros - Inexpensive, scale looks, nice soft suspension, durable with sensible power, and lightweight.

Cons - AR60 axles.  That's really it and even they will hold up just fine under scale monster truck power.

Anti Sway Bar: Yes

 

Losi LMT:

 

spacer.png

Pros - 1/8 scale running gear, nice shocks, nice looking axles, no torque twist, durable even with insane power and used sensibly.

Cons - Heavy, plate chassis is not scale looking, hardware is some of the worst I've ever seen.

Anti Sway Bar: Yes

 

Tamiya TXT-2:

 

spacer.png

Pros - Realistic looking chassis, durable with sensible power, nice shocks, great looking toploader replica axles.

Cons - Overall weight, weight distribution (top heavy), parts can be hard to find.  I also find the body to me mounted waay too high, I lower the body with custom mounts on my TXTs.  Bumpers are also hideous.  

Anti Sway Bar: ??

 

 

Juggernaut:

 

spacer.png

Pros - Only solid axle leaf sprung truck ever in production, durable drivetrain with sensible power, handles well for what it is.

Cons - A bit top heavy, steering not great in stock form but it can be made to work and its better than the Clod. 

Anti Sway Bar: ??

 

 

Kyosho Mad Force VE:

spacer.pngspacer.png

 

Pros - Durable with 4s power...that's about it.

Cons - Does not look scale at all, shocks are mounted in an odd position, wheels/tires are ugly, stock steering is useless.

Anti Sway Bar: ??

 

CEN HL150

spacer.png

 

Pros: the Price? 250,-

Cons: Too stiff Suspension?

Price: £ 220

Scale: 1:10

Tires: Soft

Anti Sway Bars: Yes

Gears: swappable

Motor: one 550

Steering: steering is vague and disappointing being sat so high up in kit form, moving it onto the axle is a huge improvment.

Shocks: 8 Oilshocks - to stiff - needs improvement (softer springs and oil or rund just 4 Oilshocks)

 

I could edit your Describtions into the first Post

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great idea. I'd just add that the TXT-1 and Juggernaut (1 and 2) are no longer in production. One that didn't make the list (though it reportedly has issues) was the Redcat Ground Pounder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I might have a few monster trucks kicking around here somewhere...I'll just go with pro/cons of a few of my favorites.  As Saito Said, the only Tamiya monsters still in production are the Clod & TXT-2.  Actually not sure if the TXT-2 is still officially in production, but you can still buy them at most good online shops.   I've seen you post about these and it looks like your only option would be the CEN truck, you can always soften suspension if need be, but personally I'd recommend the SMT10 if you want to keep a budget and have a good truck.  The SMT10 is about as cheap as you can get for a decent solid axle monster. 

SMT10:

Pros - Inexpensive, scale looks, nice soft suspension, durable with sensible power, and lightweight.

Cons - AR60 axles.  That's really it and even they will hold up just fine under scale monster truck power.

 

Losi LMT:

Pros - 1/8 scale running gear, nice shocks, nice looking axles, no torque twist, durable even with insane power and used sensibly.

Cons - Heavy, plate chassis is not scale looking, hardware is some of the worst I've ever seen.

 

Tamiya TXT-2:

Pros - Realistic looking chassis, durable with sensible power, nice shocks, great looking toploader replica axles.

Cons - Overall weight, weight distribution (top heavy), parts can be hard to find.  I also find the body to me mounted waay too high, I lower the body with custom mounts on my TXTs.  Bumpers are also hideous.  

 

Juggernaut:

Pros - Only solid axle leaf sprung truck ever in production, durable drivetrain with sensible power, handles well for what it is.

Cons - A bit top heavy, steering not great in stock form but it can be made to work and its better than the Clod. 

 

Kyosho Mad Force VE:

Pros - Durable with 4s power...that's about it.

Cons - Does not look scale at all, shocks are mounted in an odd position, wheels/tires are ugly, stock steering is useless.

 

Happy to elaborate more on any of these, have a few of each and love them all for different reasons.  Overall the Jugg is just cool because of the leaf springs, TXTs are not really a great buy uness you're going to modify them, the SMT10 is the best budget truck around, and the LMT is nearly solid axle perfection (at least for racing).   My opinions are all based on scale use of the truck.  This means not launching them from 3-4 feet in the air like some people do... I race my trucks and do not really bash solid axle monsters, thery're just not made for that.  Even in real life Monster Jam when they freestyle they just tear them up, solid axle trucks are just not made for that sort of abuse with all of that sprung weight under the truck.  Even the most durable solid axle truck I've ever owned, the Kyosho Mad Force VE, would suffer breakage when run like a Traxxas Maxx.  

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just looked in the CEN truck and relized it costs just as much as the SMT10 (in the US at least), is that different where you're from?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@87lc2

Can you tell us about your Trucks?

You are our Monstertruck gy.

 

Your Montain Monster looks a bit like my Clod, but i have (very soft and a bit "leaky") Oilshocks, 25 GT tuned Motors, 8,4v NiMh, (poor) antiswaybars and homemade Servomounts for 4 wheel steering installed. I like mine a lot, but it is a bit to slw for my feeling. I would love to get a teeny weeny bit more Performene out of it.
Maybe i do a runningvideo of my stock looking Clod.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take a look in my Showroom most of my trucks are in there with descriptions of what I did with them.  Any specific questions happy to answer.  The great thing about solid axle trucks is there's no one perfect setup, everyone needs to setup their own truck to their personal driving style.  

My Mountain Monster is basically a stock Clod/Bullhead used for retro racing.  27t Axial motors, stock friction shocks, axle on servo steering, and a slight wheelbase extension, that's it.  The truck works great, its very light and handles very well considering the speeds we run retro trucks at (27t motors with 2S lipo).   I do run it on 3S from time to time in practice and that works well too, but tends to break a lot more parts since Clods are fragile as you know.  The trick to a stock Clos is using the tires for suspension.  I drill 4 very large air holes on the inside of each wheel and it helps tremendously with settling the truck down after a landing.   You'll know you got it right when you squeeze the tire and don't hear the whistle of the air rushing back in.  Also, when you set the truck down the tires should collpase just a bit under the trucks weight, then you know you have enough venting in the wheel.  I have videos of that truck racing somewhere, I'll see if I can post them.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

  I have videos of that truck racing somewhere, I'll see if I can post them.  

That would be awsome

5 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

The truck works great, its very light and handles very well considering the speeds we run retro trucks at (27t motors with 2S lipo).

Where can i see the Regulations? are the 27T Mors not extremly slow? Or are there "fast" 27 Turners? I know that you can`t tell how fast a Motor is by it`s Turns. The Super Stock Motors are extremly good in my opinion and much better than a lot of 19 - 15 Turn Motors.....

 

What Motos du you use, what are their specs?

5 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

 I do run it on 3S from time to time in practice and that works well too, but tends to break a lot more parts since Clods are fragile as you know

In fact, i didn? knew that :D

i always thought a clod is indestructable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll see if I can format them properly to post or get them on Youtube.  The motors are just stock 27t motors (same as Tamiya silver cans) and yes the racing is not that fast.  This is for the retro class racing, only real rules are 27t fixed endbell motors, Clod ladder bar suspension (chassis can be aftermarket), 2S lipo power, and 2.6 size tires/wheels.  That's really it.  It's supposed to mimic Stage 2 monster trucks from the late 80s.  Courses are pretty small and compact so speed is not really a factor anyway, the key is to get the truck to jump & land straight.   Check our some Trigger King videos of Retro Clod racing on YouTube, that is the style of racing we do.  We also run other classes for modified Clods, SMT10s, and LMTs and that's a ton of fun, but I still enjoy racing retro Clods. 

Clod are definitely not indestructible when overpowered/over jumped.  They are very reliable for the most part and if you run them on 2S you shouldnt have any problems.  Even running on 3s with stock motors in mst cases they are pretty reliable.  The problem comes in when racing on 3s and pushing the truck hard.  In one race weekend at the end of the summer I blew a rear idler gear coming down from a jump under power, then broke the shock mounting tabs from the ladder bar, and lastly broke an axle tube.  These were all newer parts (I wont run vin tage parts in racing, too fragile), but pushing the truck hard under power can cause breakages.  Luckily Clod parts are readily available and cheap.  I'd say the most common parts to break are axle tubes and steering knuckles, I usually keep a few of each in my toolbox on race days.  I rarely breake anything in the gearbox, especially on 2S.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know the trigger king channel. 

 

The retro lass seems faster than my Clod, but I have 25 t Tamiya Motors with a bit of Timing and a 7 cell NiMh....    ..... and yes the Truck runs faster in Forward than in reverse :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so for my CEN imo, the price was good, it is a RTR kit and for £220 ATM in most places it's a good price. Scale looks are good, the tyres are really good, nice soft rubber and nice shape. Same as the wheels, they mimic monster jam style wheels. The ESC is a hobbywing 1040 that can handle 3s. Anti rolls bars as standard is great. The body looks good and very scale like. Metal geared gearbox with swappable speed gear set. Torquey 550 motor.

The bad points = steering is vague and disappointing being sat so high up in kit form, moving it onto the axle is a huge improvment. The ride is bouncy with the 8 shocks - 4 shocks works just fine . The wheels and tyres are pre glued. The anti roll bar link rods are too stiff out of the box adding to the bouncy feeling. 

Modding wise seems good, metal 4 link kit can be adjusted and extended, add to that you can buy non standard longer prop shafts to extend the wheelbase like I have done. There is an optional 4ws kit that looks good. Although it runs off the original servo position, so imo I would axle mount both servos and have a Y link cable. The 4ws kit at least adds the steering knuckles etc for the rear axle. 

James.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, whahooo said:

I know the trigger king channel. 

 

The retro lass seems faster than my Clod, but I have 25 t Tamiya Motors with a bit of Timing and a 7 cell NiMh....    ..... and yes the Truck runs faster in Forward than in reverse :D

The Trigger King retro trucks are all stock 27t motors on 2s, that's why my clubs run as well.  They do look and feel faster on a small scale-like racing track which might be the difference.  Running a Clod with stock 27t motors in an open area is rather boring, but on a tight scale race track it can be a lot of fun.  As with all RC vehicles, it's how you use them that determines the fun factor.  If I never got into racing I probably wouldn't have built all of the monsters I currently have.  Solid axle monster trucks aren't really that much fun without a structured racing environment or scale area to run in my opinion. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As above. I have my 3.5T motored E4JS touring car for my speed fun. My CEN I try to use like a monster truck, small space and lots of small jumps etc. If you dont have a small space, just setup markers etc to make a large space smaller. 👍 It can be alot of fun when you try to run them as scale as possible imo. 👍

James.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, InsaneJim69 said:

As above. I have my 3.5T motored E4JS touring car for my speed fun. My CEN I try to use like a monster truck, small space and lots of small jumps etc. If you dont have a small space, just setup markers etc to make a large space smaller. 👍 It can be alot of fun when you try to run them as scale as possible imo. 👍

James.

Exactly!  They are awesome when used in the proper structure, but for bashers not so much.  The only exception would be snow, they can be fun in snow.  If I just want to take a car out in the yard or local dirt spot for some fun I'll usually go with something a bit faster and more predictable handling-wise, usually something with independent suspension.  Or as @InsaneJim69 said, a brushelss touring car for some street fun.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only have a tight Space at my Frontyard (i do not have a Backyard). So i think my Setup is ok. Sadly it isn`t "legal" for retro Class because of the 7 cell pack and the 25T Motors. Would the anti Sway Bar that i use be legal? it is just a u shaped Wire that prevents rolling because i run a super duper soft oilshock setup and the Body would just wiggle from Side to side without that.

 

But i See, i have to build more Ramps :D and build a Monstertruck course.....

Also i do not know what to do with my other very unused Clod from the 80s.....   it is quite "not runned", but covered in Dust and Spiderwebs....

I Bought the Super Clodbuster to save the old one. I`m happy with my super Clod (exept the Speed), but there is an urge to get another more modern Truck since i did not catch a local "get" of an Argios for 110 Bucks.....

 

I didn`got it, now i want it sooo bad.

I´m a big child.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, whahooo said:

 

I´m a big child.....

Aren't we all :)   Sway bars are not legal for retro racing, and not needed on a Clod.  With the old Clod how about jsut restoring it for the shelf?  I did that with one recently and its taking a lot for me not to sell it, I have no use for shelf queens.  

The modern trucks are a lot better than Clods.  If I didn't have such nostalgia for the Clod I problably wouldn't have them either.  I'd really recommend the SMT10 Builder's Kit, or just wait and see if something else comes up for sale.  The TXT is a great truck and definitely a step up from the Clod, but unless you plan on modifying it they're not really a ton of fun stock.  The TXT-1 is interesting with the cantilever setup, but the TXT-2 is a pretty boring runner in stock form. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I really want an SMT 10, but the builders kit here in the UK is around £220. Add to that tyres £60. And wheels £40. Then a body and paint £60. And we are at almost £400 for a roller. That's just crazy, as the losi lmt is only another £200 and is almost rtr. 

James.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, InsaneJim69 said:

I really want an SMT 10, but the builders kit here in the UK is around £220. Add to that tyres £60. And wheels £40. Then a body and paint £60. And we are at almost £400 for a roller. That's just crazy, as the losi lmt is only another £200 and is almost rtr. 

James.

Yea, they do get a bit expensive if you actually want it to run :)  I didn't realize the kit was that much more in the UK, that does make it a lot less attractive.  I dont think the LMT is worth 200 more than the SMT for a roller, but I do see your point.  There are advantages and disadvntages to both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, InsaneJim69 said:

I really want an SMT 10, but the builders kit here in the UK is around £220. Add to that tyres £60. And wheels £40. Then a body and paint £60. And we are at almost £400 for a roller. That's just crazy, as the losi lmt is only another £200 and is almost rtr. 

James.

If you really want one, keep an eye on Amain hobbies in case they discount the kit again. It went down to $130 ish so I got one for under £200 delivered. Sure, there will be the other costs on top but I definitely saved.

Or get the Losi :D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/24/2022 at 1:16 AM, 87lc2 said:

My Mountain Monster is basically a stock Clod/Bullhead used for retro racing.  27t Axial motors, stock friction shocks, axle on servo steering, and a slight wheelbase extension, that's it.

 

Can you tell me why you and a lot of people are using the friction Shocks? Is it more "Fun"?

I think the Oildampers make a BIG difference, even the weight of a Clod is on the axle. But when i let my stock Clod fall from a few cm the Truck is bouncing aroind a  lot. My "Stockish" Clod with the oilshocks lands very good and does not bounce - it just lands and get up to the 3/4 extended shockheight.

 

I do not understand why so many peole do not use Oilshocks in the "retroclass" Clods.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, whahooo said:

 

Can you tell me why you and a lot of people are using the friction Shocks? Is it more "Fun"?

I think the Oildampers make a BIG difference, even the weight of a Clod is on the axle. But when i let my stock Clod fall from a few cm the Truck is bouncing aroind a  lot. My "Stockish" Clod with the oilshocks lands very good and does not bounce - it just lands and get up to the 3/4 extended shockheight.

 

I do not understand why so many peole do not use Oilshocks in the "retroclass" Clods.

The short answer is because they work (with modifications) and you want your tires to do the suspension work with a Clod.  The exception to this is when running a heavier chassis than stock, then you'll definitely want oil.  The key to monster truck racing is tires & foam, not suspension in my opinion.  Of course suspension matters, but tires/foam have a much bigger effect.  The exception to this is when running a heavier chassis than stock, then you'll definitely want oil.

I originally built that truck as a budget retro truck that I was going to upgrade as I raced it.  I ended up winning the first three brackets I raced in with the truck and decided to leave it alone.  I never planned on leaving the stock shocks on the truck, but I learned a lot in doing so.  With hardly any weight in the chassis on a Clod they work very well since they rebound very quickly.  This allows you to get back on the throttle as soon as (or even before) you land, that is key.  Oil shocks might help the truck land better with very soft springs and light oil, but the rebound will not be as fast and you'll need to wait for the truck to settle before getting back on the throttle to keep the truck straight.  The only modifications I've made to the shocks are polishing the shafts, removing the lower bump stops, and tightening up the mounting points to avoid the excess play.  

I do have a Regulator Chassis retro build planned (have everything needed except the chassis - waiting for them to come back in stock) and I'm going to use oil shocks on that truck, TXT-2 shocks specifically.  I really like the shock setup on the last TXT-2 I built and gonig to replicate that on this truck with lighter oil, I think it will do well.  The Regulator chassis will have a lot more weight than the stock Clod chassis so it should work out.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@whahooo - I'll add that if you're still using the stock wheelbase on the Clod that changes things.  The stock shocks do not work well with such a short wheelbase, even just a 1" extension makes a world of difference.   

Also - I love RC monster truck racing because it is so dependent on the driver rather than the equipment and the fact that no one setup is perfect, I've seen so many different truck steups on the same chassis and they all work for different drivers.  Nothing I say is intended to be the best or only way to do things, just what has worked for me and made the truck as easy to drive in scale racing situations as possible.  I'm a decent driver but not the best, so I spend time testing my trucks and making sure they suit the driving style that I'm most comfortable with.  As long as y ou like how your truck works that's all that matters.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

@whahooo - I'll add that if you're still using the stock wheelbase on the Clod that changes things.  The stock shocks do not work well with such a short wheelbase, even just a 1" extension makes a world of difference.   

No, i`m using the same Extension as you in your Mountain Monster:

1641324677468706721650.jpg

And i love the feel of the Oilshocks. The Bad thing is that they are so soft that you need a Antiswaybar. If you do not use one, the Truck leans to the outer side when cornering (feels like 45 degree Angle) and just wobbles around and locks into one side after cornering. So i use suuuuuper soft Suspension and the improvised Sway Bar.

I think it handles super, but i`m not a good driver. I only build some Models, testdrive them and put them on a Shelf.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh cool, didn't realize you had the wheelbase extension already.  I like the look of those shocks, what are they?  Gold shocks are always good looking in my opinion.  I've never needed sway bars with a Clod even with oil shocks, but if it works for you that's great.  Love the body, one of my favorites.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have MST MTX-1 after glueing tires it wheelies a little indoor, no wheelies on snow :) Just thinking about some upgrades shocks, alu pivot balls, wheel/tire set (w/foam insert), wb extension...

After reading replies decided to start from tires.

-How to measure/set/decide link and shaft lenght? (stock wb about 11in, 12.5in or less/more for better landings?)

-I like 2.6 wheels look, but not sure car can handles or not.

-Stock shock travels very limited(110m length). 100mm should be better, internal shocks ??

May I get your ideas please?

Barış

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Oh cool, didn't realize you had the wheelbase extension already.

Ya, one of my favorite Upgrades so far - cheap, but useful. With that upgrade you do not need any aftermarket chassis AND you can use longer shocks also - i would say 110 mm are perfect. Or you can use 100 mm shocks cut holes into the chassis to prevent the Gearbox hitting the Chassis and have the tires rubbing the Body.....

51 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

I like the look of those shocks, what are they?

That are generic 120 mm china cheapo shocks. There are the same shocks from different Brands in multiple colors

https://www.amazon.de/Crawler-AXI03007-Metall-Stoßdämpfer-Öldämpfer/dp/B09NBMNG17/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=1OW8AAXROLYFL&keywords=120%2Böldämpfer&qid=1643138547&sprefix=120%2Böldämpfe%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-3&th=1

I think i`ve got a Set of 4 for around 20 Bucks. They came with 8 hard and 8 soft Springs so you can use a Dualrate Setup. I use 2 Soft Springs on each shock and use 120mm shocklength. With that extended Wheelbase and angled shocks it`s a good setup, but i think 110mm and straight shocks would be better.

You will need Green Slime to set them up, because they are leaky and the O-Rings aren`t standard Tamiya Size ones, so you can`t use red or TRF O-Rings.

There are also "Piggyback" looking Shocks, the "piggyback" are just for looks. Maybe i get theese for my next clod that is coming to me sooner or later.... (i have some sort of addictionproblem.....)

https://www.amazon.de/AWEAJVI-Stoßdämpfer-Öldämpfer-Effektive-Stoßdämpfung/dp/B09FK1ND4L/ref=sr_1_24?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=120%2Böldämpfer&qid=1643139030&sr=8-24&th=1

51 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Love the body, one of my favorites.

I just ordered a Ford Body that reminded me of the Monstertrucks of my childhood. It was a Bigfoot, i think it had stripes on it.

Can you tell me if my Clod reassambles a "real world Monstertruck"? What Bigfoot # would that be? (i didn`t put the Stripes on the hood and the roof, becaus i think they do not look very good - sorry Team Bigfoot :D )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...