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When comparing the Bullhead to the Clodbuster or even other 1/10 models, I felt like the Bullhead body is really closer to 1/12 scale.  It's barely bigger then my Kyosho Beetle body. If that's the case that would explain why Super Pete tires look smaller then the Bullheads.  Tamiya did spec it's semi models for 1/12 scale. 

I was going to try to widen and stretch the Bullhead body, to closer match Super Pete (or Big Pete which is another Monster truck that has the Peterbilt cab), but that was way over my skill level.

I went with Jconcepts F250 Super Cab on mine.  It's a far bit larger then the Clodbuster and Bullhead bodies. It rides on a 3d printed chassis now.

Stretching the chassis seemed to help with straight line stability at the cost of a tight turning circle. Widening the track with wheel spacers is what made mine want to tip over less.  

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13 hours ago, SentriU said:

When comparing the Bullhead to the Clodbuster or even other 1/10 models, I felt like the Bullhead body is really closer to 1/12 scale.  It's barely bigger then my Kyosho Beetle body. If that's the case that would explain why Super Pete tires look smaller then the Bullheads.  Tamiya did spec it's semi models for 1/12 scale. 

I was going to try to widen and stretch the Bullhead body, to closer match Super Pete (or Big Pete which is another Monster truck that has the Peterbilt cab), but that was way over my skill level.

I went with Jconcepts F250 Super Cab on mine.  It's a far bit larger then the Clodbuster and Bullhead bodies. It rides on a 3d printed chassis now.

Stretching the chassis seemed to help with straight line stability at the cost of a tight turning circle. Widening the track with wheel spacers is what made mine want to tip over less.  

I Would love to see that if you have pictures. I have a Proline F100 ‘66 shell that I already purchased that I’m going to fit on my clod.

Sorry if I’m hijacking the thread.

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13 hours ago, SentriU said:

I was going to try to widen and stretch the Bullhead body, to closer match Super Pete (or Big Pete which is another Monster truck that has the Peterbilt cab),

Never knew that Truck.....
It looks closer to the Bullhead.

 

Also i never knew there is a UK Monstertruck scene:

They still use those "bounce around" Trucks, they are much more closer to the Clodbuster....

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So, Parts arrived.

I will post some Pictures if get some time.

But i have a Question:

Waht is the advantage of this Battery?

spacer.png

 

It is also a 7,2 Volt Battery....    ...is it only a Gimmik? is it the Weight distribution??l

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At 6000 mah, I'd say the advantage is longer run times. Set-ups like these were more popular for Clods in the old Nicad days of the 80's.

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Parts arrived, Photos are made:

DSC01046.thumb.JPG.0699ab70af1ab36498608f0a547222d2.JPG

 

I will try to fit the Parts to my Bullhead that Weekend if i find Time for that.

 

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What are those aluminum brackets outside of the bags in the bottom right of the photo?  Gearbox link mounts?  

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That is the Servomount designed by @madinventor I still have to ship 2 Sets to him....

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On 2/23/2022 at 5:39 AM, whahooo said:

So, Parts arrived.

I will post some Pictures if get some time.

But i have a Question:

Waht is the advantage of this Battery?

spacer.png

 

It is also a 7,2 Volt Battery....    ...is it only a Gimmik? is it the Weight distribution??l

That looks like it's made of AA batteries, with 3 sets of 4 x 1.2 v batteries in parallel @1500 mAh  making 3.6 volts a side. I'm not sure what the discharge rating is for AA compared to Sub Cs, but at 6000 mAh it would be a longer life battery than a normal stick pack, and perhaps a higher discharge rate (as there are four batteries).

Also more compact in certain dimensions. I'm not 100% sure if more effective that 2 Sub C packs? Probably somewhat similar.

These days AA batteries can be up to 2600 mAh, which means a set up like this could be 10000 mAh plus.

 

 

 

 

 

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So, i have almos everything togheter for my Bullhead/Carolina Crusher project.

I got 8 Agrios CVAs and they are way better than the Aluminium Dampers.

 

 

But the Agriosshocks are only 9 cm hole to hole. I do have a Chassis stretchplate, so i need a bit longer Dampers, i would like to use 11cm shocks,....

I asked in the General Forum:

But noone answered, so i ask again in the Monstertruck Subforum.

Does anyone know the standard thickness of tamiya shafts that are in the CVAs?
I need some Rodends that will fit the CVAs and can fit the Balls of the lower shockmounts of the Clodbuster and will raise it about 2cm.
 

I do not want to use Liftplates, because i do not like the Look and i think it will not be as abusable.

 

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The Agrios shocks are a bit short for a stock Clod.  I used them with my Regulator chassis and the truck sits lower, but there is no chassis to get in the way.  There are extra rod ends on the TXT-2 shoc k parts tree that are longer and will give another 5-6mm or so, but probably still not long enough for the stock chassis.  You have three options to run those shocks > 1) find longer shafts 2) use lift plates 3) cut out the chassis so you can get a lower stance.  

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Yesterday i painted the Body of the Chevy.

It was a Desaster :D

I had running Paint and tried to fix ist with more Paint :D

 

So now i have to fully disassamble, put bearings in, mount the Servos (need to buy grubscrews ....)& And the Motors, Install the Strechplate, Paint the Wheels,  and Finish it Off.

 

The bumper needs some black Tape to finnisch it Off.

 

Where should i get Bodyposts? The polish HPI Shop has Posts to screw on from Scout RC, but the shipping is about 15 Euros, and they do Not have These magnetthingys..... If they had them, i would order them.....

IMG_20220415_155652.thumb.jpg.47521a727ba8e388cf2cad546affb4c9.jpgIMG_20220415_155645.thumb.jpg.ac0f78a60aa3902cf474889305cd8868.jpgIMG_20220416_090939.thumb.jpg.9f1b3cd29f144a783d587491636a7d39.jpgIMG_20220416_091034.thumb.jpg.cb5b13a05f107d8e2d9ab70d3f0fa049.jpgIMG_20220416_091013.thumb.jpg.f923ae2cac10c60f85a43f6d83452c5e.jpg

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Crusher body came out great!   Really like it with the red Bullhead chassis. 

For the bumper just mask and paint on the outside of the body with matte black.  For body posts I usually just use the short screw in style on the Clod chassis.  They make aluminum ones too but in my experience the chassis likes to crack after a few rollovers, best to stick with plastic.

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On 4/16/2022 at 1:52 PM, 87lc2 said:

For body posts I usually just use the short screw in style on the Clod chassis. 

Where do you get them?

 

Edit: i did found some.

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I installed the bearings, the Motors, the ESC, the Servos and Servomounts.

 

It was a LOT more Work than i thoughts.

I also have to figure out how to set up the Hobbywing ESC. Because the Car dies Not respond really well to the Reverse function....

Ihave to Trigger Reverse afew Times before the Car reacts...

Edit: I can't Upload any more Pictures.....

IMG_20220418_105829.jpg

IMG_20220418_105846.jpg

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To set the ESC do the following (assuming its an 880/1080):

1) Make sure trims are all set to zero.

2) Turn on transmitter.

3) Hold set button on ESC then turn power on.

4) Release set button when you hear a beep.  

5) Press set button to set neutral, ESC should beep once.

6) Hold full forward on your transmitter then push set button, should beep twice.

7) Hold full reverse on your transmitter then push set button, should beep three times.

 

Give it a couple seconds after that and it should work normally.  

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3 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

To set the ESC do the following (assuming its an 880/1080):

It is a Hobbywing Dual Motor ESC, i think it is the 880.

I just came home from my Holidays, so now i do not have access to my cars.

The Manual says i need a programcard to set up the ESC. The old Hobbywing ESC had dipswitches......

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You need a program card to adjust any settings, but what I posted above is for the initial ESC setup and you do not need a card for that.  

The 880 uses the same program card that comes with the 1080 if you have one of those.  Any Hobbywing card will work really.  

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Ok....

 

I do not have a Programcard, the old ESC had Dipswitches.

Do you know the initial Settings?

I use NiMh Batterys and do not want any Low Voltage Cutoff, also i would like to be able to drive in reverse. A Brake between Forward and reverse would be good.

 

What i noticed while testing the Truck in my livingroom:
At the Start the Truck is driving forward and reverse. After about one Minute the Truck has troubles to drive in reverse. I Have to hit reverse several times until the Truck drives in reverese, often it does not react at all.

Does the ESC need seperate Battery, with my other Clod i had the Problem that the Servos were not reacting after abourt one Minute. I installed a Receiver Battery and now the Servos work just fine.

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You can download the manual here - https://www.hobbywing.com/goodsshow.php?id=650

Not sure on stock settings, but should have it in the manual.  I do know that defualt is F/R/B.  Do the setup as specified in the manual and it should work fine.  You will need a card to change battery settings if NiMH is not default.  

No need for another battery, I run the 880 with dual servos all the time and no issues.  

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So, i deleted some Pictures and now i can show the assambled Truck.

 

Also i bought a programmcard on amazon, i Hope that it will work.....

I never used a programmcard before.

IMG_20220418_141349.thumb.jpg.fecf2ababcab779133fe8257a14664b9.jpgIMG_20220418_141339.thumb.jpg.095efa8c0e70a5166cef2691358cc689.jpg

 

IMG_20220418_125124.jpg.18ee341ea31c88d236e101a342f709a9.jpgIMG_20220418_125117.jpg.5e327315aff2a9f0f0311c898162e90a.jpgIMG_20220418_130509-1.jpg.6af1824743898886d4fefeed7f62be75.jpg

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Looks good with that wheelbase extension!

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If i would Install internal spring schocks, what color would you choose?

 

https://www.amazon.de/INJORA-Stoßdämpfer-Absorber-Dämpfer-Crawler/dp/B07ZPTJ28X/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?crid=2KNFKJRPV3CXG&keywords=modellbau+dämpfer+110mm&pscroll=1&qid=1650384811&sprefix=modellbau+dämpfer+110mm%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-28&wIndexMainSlot=26

 

 

 

I don't know If i should Install the Tamiya Agrios CVAs with Liftplates, internal Spring schocks (best optic) or If i should try the red Aluminium schocks that i already have....

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Today i got that generic Programmcard.....

There is no Cable includet with the Card.

But i have Y-Lead for the Dualservo Setup. Can i use the male connectors of the Y-lead? The cables are soildered togeter on the femaleside, so there should be a connetion, right?

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