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Sure, you can use any lead that is connected to the EXC programming port, they're all pretty much the same.  If it s generic programming card make sure you look at the manual for which settings you're changing. 

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My card has a "Item" and a "Value" row.

I think you have to set it up like that:

Item 2 Value 2 for NimH Batteries etc.

https://www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/WP880en.pdf

 

 

Right?

I never seen or heared abot a programcard. I know that you have to "program" your brushless motors, but i never used a Brushless System yet.

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Yes exactly.  Item is Programmable Item in the chart and Value is Option # in the chart.  

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16 hours ago, whahooo said:

I never seen or heared abot a programcard. I know that you have to "program" your brushless motors, but i never used a Brushless System yet.

I hadn't used a program card before either - but I spent quite a lot of time changing initial start force and braking force to get mine just right for grass... I can now pop it up into a moon walk with brakes and reverse... and initial start force is just enough to get a wheelie going if I want... (I can't remember the values I used now, but it was a lot of fun!)

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Today i reinforce my Steeringrods:

IMG_20220424_111246.thumb.jpg.5c66b9a6a516e200e3e835da09d5e46c.jpgIMG_20220424_112958.thumb.jpg.3f03ed2e3cd7e5f6573953afe5d05c16.jpg

 

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I hate my project :D

 

I cant set up the ESC without Programcard....

I ordered a Programcard.....

I can`t connet that Card to the ESC because i do not have the right cable....

I ordered a Cable....

I connected the Cable, the ESC and the Programcard and it DOESN`T work! It is just blinking in a row.... The LEDs start on the left side and blink to the right in a wave like manner, in the beginning fast and then slow.....

 

I ordered a "Drfeify" Programcard. The Hobbywing one costs me about 20 Euros with shipping and i have 6 weeks of shippingtime....

 

It`s just no fun anymore, i miss the old times. Setting up an MSC was easier ^^

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I looked up the Drfeify that you just ordered and that won't work either.  You need a Hobbywing card.

Just buy a Hobbywing 1080 ESC for one of your crawlers, they all come with the proper card.  Too bad you're not closer I think I have 20-30 of them lying around.  

 

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I do agree that things like this can make a project not seem so fun anymore...sorry for the troubles. 

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11 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Just buy a Hobbywing 1080 ESC for one of your crawlers, they all come with the proper card.  Too bad you're not closer I think I have 20-30 of them lying around.  

I do not own any crawler, but i think i have a Hobbywing 1080 in my Dagger, but it has dipswitches.....
 

Now i ordered a Hobbywing Programcard for about 40 Bucks, i hope this will work....

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6 minutes ago, whahooo said:

I do not own any crawler, but i think i have a Hobbywing 1080 in my Dagger, but it has dipswitches.....
 

Now i ordered a Hobbywing Programcard for about 40 Bucks, i hope this will work....

It's not the 1080 if it has switches, every 1080 comes with the programming card. Probably the 1060.  Hope it finally works for you.  

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That are UK Princes....

With shipping, taxxes etc you easily pay 30 to 40 Euros.

 

I ordered in Amazon and i will send the Card Back after using it, i do Not have a Problem with that this time.

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Today i testdrove my Carolina Cruscher the first time.

I really like the Speed with those 2 firebolt Motors and the 7 Cell NiMh Pack.

When i hitted the throttle it felt like i had installed a loose slipper in the Transmission, so i need to attach the tires to the rims anyhow.

I never glued my tires in any of my RCs....

 

Is there any compund that could be removed at any time?

I know people use rubber Bands, but the Rubberbands that are sold here turn in to a gooie mess or into dust after one year....  Is there a glue that is removable?

I would like that sticky firm rubbery glue that you find in Magazines when they attach some Beautylotion for women or Toys for children (not vice versa :D ).

 

 

 

PS:

The Truck is pulling hard to the left after about 5 Meters in full throttle. Could this be an effect from unglued tires?

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Use E6000 to glue the tires, holds great and comes right off.  I use it on all of my monster truck tires since I swap them around a lot.  Either that or Shoo Goo.  

Glue the tires then get back to the steering.  If using the stock setup and stock savers the rear could be rotating when under power. 

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Thanks.

 

No, i use 2 Servos without a Servosaver, i think the rims Spin Raster in one Side than in the other side because they are not glued...

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I testet the Crusher today.

 

I prepared the Tires with shoegoo, let it dry and then put them on the Rims.
The Tires still slip :D
I have to glue them...

Also after a few Minutes the ESC doesn`t react anymore. If i pull the Throttle for a few seconds and begin with a full brake, the ESC beeps and i can`t move for about 5 Seconds.
Also the fron Servo cuts out after the ESC issue.

My other Clod had the same Servo issue. The servos cutted out afer a few Minutes. I fixed thet with a receiverbattery.
I hope that will also fix the ESC Problem.

 

 

So next Step:

.) Put a receiverbattery in.        AND

.) Put Stabilizers and lighter oil in the shocks.

 

But otherwise it drives lovely :D

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Wait - You put the Shoo Goo on the tire, let it dry, then mounted on the rim?  That's not how it works, you need to treat it like glue and adhere the tire to the rim.  There's no way it won't work with the power you're running.  I run my Pro Mod race trucks with Shoo Goo (E6000) and no issues.  

If it's a HW 880 you shouldn't need a rx battery, but if running a Tamiya ESC you deifnitley will.  

 

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Yes i use the Hobbywing 880

The ESC cuts out if i use full throttle and and full Brake after some Meter. Then it beeps and i have to wait some seconds and it will work again.

Also one of the Servos is cutting out (i use 2 different Servos atm) after that beep...

 

I will glue the Tires after painting the Rims in Yellow.

Should i remove the Chrome before putting the yellow Paint on them?

If Yes, what should i use to remove the chrome?

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That's odd about the ESC.  Never had an issue with the 880, did you set it to 7.4v BEC?  Did you do the factory set procedure?  All your Ch 2 trims and EPAs good?  

You can remove the chrome but you don't have to.  To remove the chrome use Easy Off Oven Cleaner (Yellow can version).  If not removing chrome just scuff them up really good before painting.  Don't paint the bead of the wheel where the tire will adhere, make sure you keep that part clean. 

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The 880 is programmable with a program card, you can set all of the items in teh attached image.  Just realized you can't set BEC voltage on the 880, only the 1080.  That's most likely not your issue anyway, I would run the setup and make sure your radio ir properly calibrated. 

 

image.thumb.png.6453189289b18e30c95d1e7a8c76f973.png

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Having the same problem with the 880, I don't think it likes low turn motors and nimh  batteries.  Even after setting the cutoff voltage to disabled and battery type to nimh.  It didn't like the goolrc motors I tried. I still have to test the rc4wd 20t motors I bought. 

You can get it to run by lowering the initial start force and start/mode/Punch but then you don't have enough punch to do wheelies anymore. 

If the rc4wd motors still cause cut outs, I might have to upgrade to Lipos or try 2 1060/1080s and run two nimhs.  The latter would be cheaper as I have a few nimh batteries already.

 

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That's interesting.  I run one of my trucks with the 880 and 15t Firebolt motors on 2s & 3s with no issues.  Wonder if it is a nimh issue?  If so get some lipos, not much reason to use nimh these days anyway.  

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I run mine on stock silver cans with an 880 and depending on how fast I want it to go use different C rated 2S and 3S batteries - the only thing I did find is that the rear motor gets pretty hot when running 3S on grass, so I fitted a heatsink and that works a treat!

 

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