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Raptor1410

Blitzer brushless

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Yours has a different kind of tabs to the blue bottle motors. Direct solder to your motor is actually easier than the vertical style of tabs. 3 months or so back, I will probably do the same as you, but now with a bit of confidence under my belt, I am thinking of trying out something different. 

Also, our objective is the same, easy swap with SP motors!

I am wondering if putting MR/MT60 plugs on the end of cables will be even neater or just add additional bulk... 

Fair enough. I've got a bluebottle here done the same way actually. Just not by me. 

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On 2/7/2022 at 2:28 PM, TurnipJF said:

have earned the nickname "Bluebottle", I guess because they are blue and pack a surprisingly strong sting?

Just checking, my "13.5T" bluebottle is only clocking 1350+kv each direction, is that correct? That is like less than 10k rpm @ 7.2V. 

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26 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Just checking, my "13.5T" bluebottle is only clocking 1350+kv each direction, is that correct? That is like less than 10k rpm @ 7.2V. 

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No idea I'm afraid - never measured one like that. All I know is that all else being equal, their performance is comparable to that of a 13.5t Speed Passion MMM. Neither produce massive RPM, but they do produce a lot of torque, so can run what by brushed standards would be considered ridiculously tall gearing to give quite impressive performance. 

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15 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

No idea I'm afraid - never measured one like that. All I know is that all else being equal, their performance is comparable to that of a 13.5t Speed Passion MMM. Neither produce massive RPM, but they do produce a lot of torque, so can run what by brushed standards would be considered ridiculously tall gearing to give quite impressive performance. 

NVM, my mistake, the poles were set wrongly to 4 poles. I tested a SP 17.5T and it gave similar disappointing results but when I set it to 2 poles, it comes close to the 2200kv claimed, @2100kv. Reset it and the bluebottle is now reading 2700+kv, close to SP 13.5T's claimed 2800kv.

My mistake. 

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20 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

NVM, my mistake, the poles were set wrongly to 4 poles. I tested a SP 17.5T and it gave similar disappointing results but when I set it to 2 poles, it comes close to the 2200kv claimed, @2100kv. Reset it and the bluebottle is now reading 2700+kv, close to SP 13.5T's claimed 2800kv.

My mistake. 

Glad it isn't a duff motor! 👍

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9 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Glad it isn't a duff motor! 👍

Shame that pole information are not always listed in the specifications. (I did try to look) 

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Has anyone tried these on a GF01 please?

At the moment I am using Torque Tuned with a HW1060, but I've got the a TBLE from the kit going spare, it might be fun to try it out? The GF01's gearing and weight means that it's not quite a quick as I'd like on open surfaces. 

 

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40 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

Has anyone tried these on a GF01 please?

At the moment I am using Torque Tuned with a HW1060, but I've got the a TBLE from the kit going spare, it might be fun to try it out? The GF01's gearing and weight means that it's not quite a quick as I'd like on open surfaces. 

 

They will be fine. The one that I have, I tested its KV value which is around that of a TT but they should have better torque, so you will be able to use the largest possible pinion. 

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

They will be fine. The one that I have, I tested its KV value which is around that of a TT but they should have better torque, so you will be able to use the largest possible pinion. 

To be fair I already use the 20t and the torque is fine, any more and you just do more wheelies! 

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18 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

To be fair I already use the 20t and the torque is fine, any more and you just do more wheelies! 

But bigger pinions (if possible) will get you even more top speed (if the motor can handle it). For one of my car, I managed to track down a 50T pinion which I am planning to use with a 48T spur to see what happens. 

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On 2/7/2022 at 2:28 PM, TurnipJF said:

Yes, that's the one.

They are available from many sellers under many brand names, but are all exactly the same motor. They don't seem to have an official model name, so have earned the nickname "Bluebottle", I guess because they are blue and pack a surprisingly strong sting?

Would i need any cooling for my esc(original stock tamiya)? 

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2 hours ago, Raptor1410 said:

Would i need any cooling for my esc(original stock tamiya)? 

 

Depends on how and where it is mounted, and how tall your gearing is. On my M-04 and M-05 chassis where the ESC gets plenty of airflow and the gearing is relatively conservative, the ESC works fine with no extra cooling. However in my DT-02 buggy with its enclosed shell, and my TT-01 touring car where I have gone for some pretty tall gearing, the addition of a cooling fan keeps the ESC from thermalling.

For installation in a Blitzer Beetle where there is plenty of room for air to flow around the ESC, you might as well give it a go without a fan first. If it gets too warm, the worst that will happen is that the thermal cutout will trigger, cutting power until it cools down again. If this occurs, you could then pop a fan on it.

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2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

 

Depends on how and where it is mounted, and how tall your gearing is. On my M-04 and M-05 chassis where the ESC gets plenty of airflow and the gearing is relatively conservative, the ESC works fine with no extra cooling. However in my DT-02 buggy with its enclosed shell, and my TT-01 touring car where I have gone for some pretty tall gearing, the addition of a cooling fan keeps the ESC from thermalling.

For installation in a Blitzer Beetle where there is plenty of room for air to flow around the ESC, you might as well give it a go without a fan first. If it gets too warm, the worst that will happen is that the thermal cutout will trigger, cutting power until it cools down again. If this occurs, you could then pop a fan on it.

Top my man, thanks for the good info. Will keep an eye on the temp. Many thanks

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Just building my Blitzer. Going with a similar brushless. Am I right thinking you can only use a 13t pinion and if so should we be getting a steel one? Not much choice in Tamiya 13t steel pinions from what I can see.

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52 minutes ago, LEE71 said:

Just building my Blitzer. Going with a similar brushless. Am I right thinking you can only use a 13t pinion and if so should we be getting a steel one? Not much choice in Tamiya 13t steel pinions from what I can see.

Search for 32DP pinions, 13 and 15T are your only options. 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/category/9920/992050/32dp/13-14t/15-16t/32mm?&stock=1

 

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2 hours ago, LEE71 said:

Just building my Blitzer. Going with a similar brushless. Am I right thinking you can only use a 13t pinion and if so should we be getting a steel one? Not much choice in Tamiya 13t steel pinions from what I can see.

Carson 0.8 module steel pinions are available from Tony's Tamiya Parts. That is what I run on mine. I only have a Torque Tuned motor installed and it handles a 13t pinion with ease even with larger than standard tyres. With the extra torque available from a 13.5t Bluebottle, you might find that it handles a 15t pinion without issue. 

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2 hours ago, LEE71 said:

Thank you. I was searching but, being new assumed Traxxas and so on would be unsuitable. 

 

Go for a 13t?

As pointed out, 0.8mod are so similar that they will work so you can widen your search. You just need to make sure you search for 3.175/3.2mm bore (different sites list them slightly differently). They are so cheap that I usually get both (or a handful if the chassis supports it) to try them out and see which one I like best, so just get 13 and 15T will be my suggestion. 

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On 2/10/2022 at 7:18 PM, alvinlwh said:

But bigger pinions (if possible) will get you even more top speed (if the motor can handle it). For one of my car, I managed to track down a 50T pinion which I am planning to use with a 48T spur to see what happens. 

The GF01 only has mounting holes for 18 and 20T, although I wonder if there is an alt spur gear option?

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4 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

The GF01 only has mounting holes for 18 and 20T, although I wonder if there is an alt spur gear option?

Not familiar with that chassis but looking it the pictures, I will guess no. 

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2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Not familiar with that chassis but looking it the pictures, I will guess no. 

I think no. I think Square RC did a faster gear option for the WR02 which can perhaps work, but I'm not 100%, and never heard of it in the GF01.

In all honestly, it would be better to get a faster RPM motor than try and gear up with a higher torque one! I don't need it much faster to be honest, but an extra 20% would be nice! 

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I am still waiting on my brushless blue but have popped in a 3s with my tam sport tuned and it flys now. Looking forward to brushless tho. Just ordered steel 13&15 t pinion

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1 hour ago, Raptor1410 said:

I am still waiting on my brushless blue but have popped in a 3s with my tam sport tuned and it flys now. 

I am interested to know how well your ST lasts or does it melt under the power of 3S? I got a ST on order to try out, 3S is one option that I am considering to boost it more. 

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20 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I am interested to know how well your ST lasts or does it melt under the power of 3S? I got a ST on order to try out, 3S is one option that I am considering to boost it more. 

I have used it about 4 times for good 15 mins each time and no probs. Did take its temp and was in good zone each time, although has been cold out so not sure what will happen in summer. Was more concerned with the esc but also in operating temp. Hot to touch but cld keep finger on easily. Is such fun, keeps its nose down also if bit easy on throttle. 

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so my blue brushles turned up today, fitting now, is it

A-blue

B-yellow

C- orange

Think thats right to what i seen.

From tamiya esc

 

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