A trio of Italian beauties??

[Busdriver 6209]

I am soon to be the proud owner of the above courtesy of @Fusion-Hobbies. I kinda bought it on a whim. No research, just the fact that it was a hard body and not a comedy car as I thought. I believe it already has one of the Holy Trinity, ie oil filled shocks, and I think I have enough bearings unless there’s some whacky ones , so only pinion to get. As I’ve said I know very little about the chassis? Would it suit a 13.5t brushless set up and if so what pinion would I need. I think the car comes with slicks but I have an unused set of rally blocks to use as well. Anything else I need to consider. Any Achilles heel!!!!!?

Will be doing build when it arrives. Sorry posted in wrong place. 

Edited March 15, 2022 by Busdriver
Will be doing build/conversion of 2 Lancias and something else

[middleagedgrup 218]

What a coincidence - I'm building one of these too right now!  I'll be sure to pillage your build thread and pick up any pointers wherever I can!

If only I could get my build thread up and running, as I seem to be unable to create any new threads at the moment.  Your post has given me the impetus I need to try and vanquish the IT gremlins.  In the meantime: it does indeed come with oil filled shocks; it requires 22 bearings all in (6x 850; 12x 1150; 2x 1260; and 2x 1510); standard pinion is 21T (mod 0.6); and it comes with cut slick tyres.  One thing that the chassis isn't is an off-road chassis - it's very much an on-road beast.  Rally blocks may look cool, but as far as keeping it period correct then you'd want to keep the slicks as the car is kitted out in Stradale spec, which I understand had road tyres.  But then again, it's your car so pay no attention to what anyone else says - it's yours to enjoy!

Edited March 8, 2022 by middleagedgrup
Correcting error: pinion is 21T, not 22T

[Busdriver 6209]

Mines arriving tomorrow, I’ve got most of the bearings apart from the 1510’s. I’m sure RCBEARINGS will oblige. I think I have 18, 22 and 24 t in stock of pinions. My idea of rallying is just a bit of old tarmac with some loose grit. I might use a set of wheels with rally blocks on for running and keep the slicks for show. Can it be built without the light pods?

[middleagedgrup 218]

3 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

 Can it be built without the light pods?

You can, but there are 5x pre-drilled holes in the front of the bonnet (3x 2mm; and 2x 1mm) for mounting the pods which you'd need/want to fill...

[Busdriver 6209]

Just a thought in case I decided to go non box art and build a road car. Having said that it’s about time I did one box art and it is real pretty!!!

[middleagedgrup 218]

Completely agree.  I just primed the body at the weekend and can't wait to get to work painting it...just need the temperatures to increase and the humidity to decrease!  Roll on Spring.

[ThunderDragonCy 7886]

The TA02 is a nice runner. It is based on buggy transmission which is very low geared, so I am not convinced brushless is the way forward. I think a high revving brushed works nicely. Mind was pretty slow even with a 17t iconic motor in it. 

[Busdriver 6209]

Was only going to use the 13.5t brushless as I happen to have it. Don’t have much experience of brushed motors other than the usual ST and TT motors. I’m not after race speed so may stick with a ST rather than brushless?

[Busdriver 6209]

20 hours ago, middleagedgrup said:

standard pinion is 22T (mod 0.6);

Mine only goes up to 21t. Are you using a special motor mount?

[Busdriver 6209]

I have a feeling of deja vu!!! Seeing as @middleagedgrup has started his build I might hold fire for a bit. Then I can pick his brains along the way and save myself some mistakes!!! What I might is do the build backwards and start with the body!

 

[middleagedgrup 218]

5 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Mine only goes up to 21t. Are you using a special motor mount?

Ahem.  That's my bad - sorry.  Fat fingered it: it is indeed a 21T pinion.  Well done for spotting my intentional mistake - you've passed the test...   Will be using the standard motor mount with a 20T hardened pinion from RW Racing. 

[middleagedgrup 218]

1 minute ago, Busdriver said:

I have a feeling of deja vu!!! Seeing as @middleagedgrup has started his build I might hold fire for a bit. Then I can pick his brains along the way and save myself some mistakes!!! What I might is do the build backwards and start with the body!

 

Looking good.  I like your thinking: you start at one end of the manual, I'll start at the other and we can meet in the middle.  And hopefully learn from each other along the way.  BTW: I'm super nervous about painting the cockpit, so will gladly let you do that first! 

[Busdriver 6209]

Are you using a Sport tuned motor. That’s my plan now. Kit came with the Carson 1060 look alike so I don’t know it’s turn limit as I haven’t opened it all up.

I need to order a few bits before I start the chassis, including a pinion , but I did see the post regarding the thrust bearing so ordered one!

[Busdriver 6209]

1 minute ago, middleagedgrup said:

BTW: I'm super nervous about painting the cockpit, so will gladly let you do that first! 

I was hoping that was going to be the bit in the middle so we could hold each other’s hands!!!

[middleagedgrup 218]

6 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Are you using a Sport tuned motor. That’s my plan now. Kit came with the Carson 1060 look alike so I don’t know it’s turn limit as I haven’t opened it all up.

I need to order a few bits before I start the chassis, including a pinion , but I did see the post regarding the thrust bearing so ordered one!

Yep, Sport tuned with NiMH.  The turn limit for that ESC seems to be detailed on the Fusion Hobbies website here. 

4 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

I was hoping that was going to be the bit in the middle so we could hold each other’s hands!!!

I've made the assumption in all of this that the cockpit will fit with the double-deck I'm adding, but that assumption may well be incorrect.  I guess we'll just have to wait and see! 

[Juhunio 6830]

9 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Was only going to use the 13.5t brushless as I happen to have it. Don’t have much experience of brushed motors other than the usual ST and TT motors. I’m not after race speed so may stick with a ST rather than brushless?

If you want to give yourself a bit more flexibility for different motor gearing then look out for the High Speed Gear Set (47393)  which includes a couple of different spur gears and opens up the potential for brushless and super stock brushed motors 👍

[ThunderDragonCy 7886]

3 minutes ago, middleagedgrup said:

I've made the assumption in all of this that the cockpit will fit with the double-deck I'm adding, but that assumption may well be incorrect.  I guess we'll just have to wait and see! 

The double deck is no taller than the ESC deck on the plastic tub. In fact, I suspect it's lower, although I've never measured it.

[Busdriver 6209]

49 minutes ago, Juhunio said:

the High Speed Gear Set (47393)  which includes a couple of different spur gears and opens up the potential for brushless and super stock brushed motors

Got one on pre order. Seem out of stock at decent prices

[Grastens 2795]

On 3/7/2022 at 5:01 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:

The TA02 is a nice runner. It is based on buggy transmission which is very low geared, so I am not convinced brushless is the way forward. I think a high revving brushed works nicely. Mind was pretty slow even with a 17t iconic motor in it. 

Can confirm; I run mine with a brushed 20T motor, and it has a decent bit of pace...

8 hours ago, Juhunio said:

If you want to give yourself a bit more flexibility for different motor gearing then look out for the High Speed Gear Set (47393)  which includes a couple of different spur gears and opens up the potential for brushless and super stock brushed motors 👍

... aided by this High-Speed Gear Set! I am presently using a 21T pinion with it, and the chassis has proven to handle quite nicely, even built stock. I used one to finish second at Round 19 of the Racing by Post challenge on TamiyaClub - not really a formal racing event, but still a result I am proud of, for what is essentially a rally car running on pavement!

As for the rest of the build:

There always seems to be issues with the front wheels rubbing on the body arches at full lock. On mine, I found I needed to remove about 2 mm of plastic from the front of the arch to clear the stock tires:

Of course, you may need to remove even more if you run larger tires, i.e. rally block treads or the aftermarket Pirelli rally tires available online.

Under extensive running, I have also found that the step screws holding the left rear upper suspension arm to the hub (and occasionally, the one holding the left rear damper to the suspension) have a tendency to loosen up. If unchecked, you may lose a dog-bone drive shaft and a rear differential cup as a result! I switched my 037 to rear universal drive shafts to address at least the former, while stocking up on spare diff cups for the latter (part number 53217, I believe). It appears to be an effect of the 'handedness' of the screws; a similar phenomenon can be observed on the front right corner, although I have had fewer problems with that.

The dampers do call for internal spacers to be installed; I left them out of mine and played with spring lengths to facilitate off-road running. At present, my 037 uses the stock springs, but about 8 mm of spacers to take up the residual space on the damper bodies, as well as to add some pre-load.

Dust and grit can get into the rear gearbox around the spur gear. I used a piece of tape, and then a thin line of grease around the perimeter of the gearbox, to mitigate the issue. I already had the displeasure of finding a shredded spur gear...

I bought a metal motor mount, finding that the stock plastic part tends to flex. Since this adversely affects the gear mesh, a stiffer solution was welcomed. It was also advertised as a heat sink, but I took no chances and fitted a standard external finned sink on the motor. I did have to cut part of the heat sink to fit on the chassis, but the stock Tamiya part I used was easy to manage with a hacksaw.

The only other bit of advice I would have is to enjoy it! These cars make fantastic-looking runners, and can play the part, too!

P.S.: Should you ever decide to put an engine bay in the back: a lightly-modified Toyota 4A-GE does nicely  I chose this for my 037 since there are numerous options available from the RC drift car scene, where that particular engine is a popular accessory. Additionally, it has the right number of cylinders - just be sure to hide the valve cover script if you use one 

Have fun with the build!

[Busdriver 6209]

🦅 eyed members will notice a change of title!!! Whilst researching for the 037 I kept coming across pictures etc of the Delta Integrale in Martini livery as well and really began to like it. I decided to take a different route to getting one so am going to convert my Asterion into a Delta. All parts are on they’re way!!

[Busdriver 6209]

5 hours ago, Grastens said:

S.: Should you ever decide to put an engine bay in the back: a lightly-modified Toyota 4A-GE does nicely  I

Funny you should mention that? I had just been googling engine bay shots for inspiration!!! Was going to make a vague representation using bits and bobs but this is a much better idea. Found one on EBay. Only bookmarked at the moment.

[Grumpy pants 4485]

6 hours ago, Grastens said:

Can confirm; I run mine with a brushed 20T motor, and it has a decent bit of pace...

... aided by this High-Speed Gear Set! I am presently using a 21T pinion with it, and the chassis has proven to handle quite nicely, even built stock. I used one to finish second at Round 19 of the Racing by Post challenge on TamiyaClub - not really a formal racing event, but still a result I am proud of, for what is essentially a rally car running on pavement!

As for the rest of the build:

There always seems to be issues with the front wheels rubbing on the body arches at full lock. On mine, I found I needed to remove about 2 mm of plastic from the front of the arch to clear the stock tires:

Of course, you may need to remove even more if you run larger tires, i.e. rally block treads or the aftermarket Pirelli rally tires available online.

Under extensive running, I have also found that the step screws holding the left rear upper suspension arm to the hub (and occasionally, the one holding the left rear damper to the suspension) have a tendency to loosen up. If unchecked, you may lose a dog-bone drive shaft and a rear differential cup as a result! I switched my 037 to rear universal drive shafts to address at least the former, while stocking up on spare diff cups for the latter (part number 53217, I believe). It appears to be an effect of the 'handedness' of the screws; a similar phenomenon can be observed on the front right corner, although I have had fewer problems with that.

The dampers do call for internal spacers to be installed; I left them out of mine and played with spring lengths to facilitate off-road running. At present, my 037 uses the stock springs, but about 8 mm of spacers to take up the residual space on the damper bodies, as well as to add some pre-load.

Dust and grit can get into the rear gearbox around the spur gear. I used a piece of tape, and then a thin line of grease around the perimeter of the gearbox, to mitigate the issue. I already had the displeasure of finding a shredded spur gear...

I bought a metal motor mount, finding that the stock plastic part tends to flex. Since this adversely affects the gear mesh, a stiffer solution was welcomed. It was also advertised as a heat sink, but I took no chances and fitted a standard external finned sink on the motor. I did have to cut part of the heat sink to fit on the chassis, but the stock Tamiya part I used was easy to manage with a hacksaw.

The only other bit of advice I would have is to enjoy it! These cars make fantastic-looking runners, and can play the part, too!

P.S.: Should you ever decide to put an engine bay in the back: a lightly-modified Toyota 4A-GE does nicely  I chose this for my 037 since there are numerous options available from the RC drift car scene, where that particular engine is a popular accessory. Additionally, it has the right number of cylinders - just be sure to hide the valve cover script if you use one 

Have fun with the build!

Great real world feed back @Grastens 

Am I remembering correctly that you cut the rear bumper/apron off as well? 

[Grastens 2795]

That is correct. It was easy enough to do with a craft saw; the same hacksaw I used for the heat sink was a bit inconsistent with the rear bumper. From there, mud flaps are almost mandatory 

[Busdriver 6209]

Heading for a well earned retirement. Cracks are beginning to show. All ready for a new set of clothes and shoes

[Busdriver 6209]

So as I don’t crowd @middleagedgrup’s 037 build I thought I would do the other Lancia first. Not strictly a build but more a rebuild. I started with an XV01-T Asterion, the body of which was become bit fragile due to gaffer taped repairs so I converted the chassis back to road/rally status. I ordered a new bumper parts set as the Integrale has a different one to the Asterion. It’s a good buy as you get a complete new set of body posts which I needed as well. I also ordered a foam bumper that needs cutting to fit. Dropped the internal mudguards and put a set of road tyres/wheels on it to keep it off the ground whilst waiting for the Integrale wheels. More to follow