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Ziddan

My builds - Updated 220904: Blitzed DT03

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Im repurposing this thread to keep my builds in one place, leaving the posts about my TT02B Scorcher, linking to my Terra Scorcher thread for the pics and comments for when i put it together but i dont expect there to be much more happening in that thread.

My Terra Scorcher build.

Hey all!

A couple of days back i started a Plasma Edge 2.

This is the first ever kit im building and my first hobby grade RC car since a Marui Big Bear i had back in the nineties.
(Had two or three toy grade cars since)

A couple of years back i got back into RC with building/flying fpv drones and foamboard planes, was good fun but ive since fallen out of that, too much repairing compared to RCing, im hoping a car will be a bit less maintenance per battery pack :P

In an earlier thread over in Other Makes i showed off the 3d print that got me back in RC this time, after getting that together i wanted to pick up a kit.

I was looking between the Plasma Edge 2 and the Neo Fighter, both look real good but since id never had a 4wd i decided on the TT02B over the DT03, even tho it cost a bit more.

Following the instructions to get it together was very straight forward after looking at a couple vids in preparation and building a 3d printed 1/10 rwd buggy a little earlier.

As for pics of the build process ill go with "draw a circle, draw another circle, now draw the rest of the f###ing owl" rather than spamming lots of pics that most of everyone will have no interest in seeing.

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I followed along the instructions, only difference from box stock was adding in ball bearings.

Since getting it to the above state ive had it out for a little test drive, so happy with how it moves, even if the ground was mostly frozen except for a little patch of gravel at work.

Today i properly attached the antenna holder using the top hole on the inner servo mount, added some foam to the underside of the battery hold down to prevent rattling and added little shelf  where a battery voltage alarm was attached as i dont know what, if any, lipo cut off the carson dragster 70A esc has (it was included in the kit rather than the tamiya esc i was expecting).

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I also designed and printed 10mm extensions for the shocks to hopefully give a bit more ground clearance.

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Sadly they turned out to be a bust as the arms will not go more than a mm or two lower.
Was expecting them to be able to go down at least 10mm since they go up more than that but the cups for the drive axles hit the arms just slightly below horizontal.

To get a bit more clearance ive put in an order for some 96mm tires on 12mm hex rims, its not a huge step up so hopefully ill be fine without changing the gearing, the rims should be large enough that they will fit over the axle carriers, offset wasnt specified but in case the included rims arent good ill just 3d print my own to fit.

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Until the new wheels (and some other random bits) arrive i figure im going to paint the body shell, from my tabletop mini hobby i have an assortment of acrylics and an airbrush, seeing that the proline body colors are water based i feel relatively sure they are also acrylics so i think ill be fine with what i already have.

Im having a hard time deciding on how id want to paint it tho, the strongest thought i have is red because "Red Wunz Go Fasta", i think it would look nice with the visible black parts of the chassi, white shocks and black/white/blue/yellow of the decals.

Will update upon more progress.

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In an effort to increase the ground clearance ive remixed a different rear arm (based on tt02 arms available on thingiverse) with space for the drive axle cup to allow the arm to droop a bit below the horizontal, it also has more options for mounting the shock to let the arm down further and shortens the wheelbase by about 10 mms. test printing now.

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If this works ill make front arms to allow more droop as well.

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An alternative to getting more ground clearance (but you will not get additional suspension travel as shocks movement is limited by how long the shafts are) is to design a different C wheel hub. The M-05Ra achieves this by having two mounting positions one lower, giving more ground clearance. Download the manuals for M-05 and M-05Ra to see what I mean. 

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I see how you mean, the issue would still be that i need to make more space for the cup on the wheel axle as the default arms cant go an lower due to the cup hitting on it, mounting the c-hub lower would make that happen earlier, the design i made has a larger cutout/"deeper fork" so that the cup will have clearance when the arms go below horizontal.

The next issue looks to be the upper arms hitting the cup on the diff side, will check tomorrow when the new lowers are printed, if necessary i will make new uppers with the same length hole to hole but add a bit of upward bow/angle to them.

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A quick bit of wrenching before going off to work.

The new arms fit and increase the clearance by nearly 1cm, as noted earlier the uppers would hit the diff cups if going any lower, will make new upper to check how i like that.

Also had a look at the front arms, they can get a bit lower without any design change, gonna add the suspension extension i thought were a bust and that will increase clearance a bit there, would need to design new steering carriers to get more movement as the limiting parts are the drive shafts, might get metal ones later on as they look slimmer.

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6 hours ago, Ziddan said:

I see how you mean, the issue would still be that i need to make more space for the cup on the wheel axle as the default arms cant go an lower due to the cup hitting on it, mounting the c-hub lower would make that happen earlier, the design i made has a larger cutout/"deeper fork" so that the cup will have clearance when the arms go below horizontal.

Have you considered using universals? They are slimmer and have thinner cups too. Although I am not sure if the TT-02 ones will work with the B. 

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I have but ill start with the tires ive already ordered and mods i can diy.

The B version has a wider track but im sure i could find some suitable part if i went looking.

Anyways, the lower arms i made allow for more suspension articulation than the uppers do.

Whipped together and put new uppers on the printer before leaving for work this morning, hopefully those will allow for more, not that i really think its needed but i figure it will be good to have the parts done.

Gonna start with putting the extenders on the front when i get home and check how that compares with the rear.

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Alright, got the extended eyelets on both front and back.

In the front they allow for mounting in the middle slot, i also took off the spacer from the shock rods so there is a bit of extra travel, the front now bottoms a few mm before the chassi would smack the surface it lands on, with the lessened leverage of mounting in the mid slots instead of the innermost the front now feels really good.

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In the rear i also mounted the extended eyelets, moved to the outermost slot, was able to take out the spring tensioners and move the rod spacer to above the spring attchy to rod thingie.

With the lessened leverage the rear is also a lot better than it was, it does spring back a little when dropped but not nearly as much as it used to and it also bottoms out a few mms before the chassi smacks the surface, i also switched the left and right uprights as i designed the arms to decrease the wheelbase about a cm.

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Im really happy with how these no cost mods changed the car, better dampening, a cm or so extra ground clearance, before the mods the front/rear arms would go to a mm or to below horizontal.

This also decreases the wheelbase by about a cm.

 

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Interesting start back to RC mate! Looks like some intricate work so far:)

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Thanks dude :)

Gonna see about actually painting the body tomorrow as there is a club just over half an hours drive from home that does 1/10 track days on tuesdays, thursdays and saturdays even weeks (1/28scale on odd).

Might not be allowed on thursday but they do newbie time on saturday mornings so ill probably be able to have a go then at least, might still try dropping by to scope it out on thursday tho.

There are apparently at least two or three places that have tracks within easy driving distance so thats interesting, the above mentioned ive been pass within a couple of hundred meters of for years without having any clue it was there :P

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I got derailed on the stock body as i got a delivery.

So anyways, ive designed a lower profile shock tower for the rear it eliminates the need for the extended shock eyelets in the back and gives me enough clearance to mount the body in a level position.

I added some extra holes to the tower in prep for devising a proper mount for the body.

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This is the plan:

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After my first test drive last week i was shaking gravel out of the tub, today more gravel fell out so i figured id make a cover for it, function over form on this one.

I cut open a soda bottle, removing the top of the taper+the bottom, cut it down the length and tied it together under the chassi, then i went at it with a hair drier, trimmed excess under the chassi until i got this pretty reasonable tub cover, i cut holes to let the steering move freely, will probably cut another for the heatsink on the ESC  and access to the power but overall this bit is about done.

PET shrinks when heated, i pressed in some areas to make it grip better, it wraps around about a cm from the edges of the underside of the tub.

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Ive made mounts for the Sand Scorcher body.

The front one bolts into the holes for the regular tt02b front body post, the rear one sleeves over the regular rear body post and bolts into the rear shock tower.

The parts were printed on their sides so the layers go the whole length of the parts making them as strong as they can be.

The body itself is completely unmodified, front post goes through the hood as with the original mount and takes a pin, in the rear the lower flat metal part of the cage mount fits into a slot on the new rear post.

The above tub cover does not interfere with the body at all.

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Wow great build thread.  Wish I had space and know how to use a 3D printer

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I started to experiment with my tt02b and rebuild it a couple of weeks ago

The problem has been too little down travel in my suspension . So I took it apart and started to check and found wear on the rear arm. So I switched out the 02b wheel axle to 02 axle. It gave me a little more drop. But a little loose so I added an o-ring to the wheel axle. Next I ordered  universals , patiently waiting.

So I started with shocks and found that the rear shock tower is too high(and soft) and doesn’t allow any down travel. I put the front shock tower on the rear and increased travel alot. Ordered carbon shock towers , waiting impatiently.

Bought 2 new chassis and did the glue gun mod   and found a hard chassis for a future build. 

Waiting on ss screws and some broken parts

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Seems we have gotten to about the same end result through different roads, your repurposing of tt02 parts looks cleaner than mine with printed parts and yourse will probably be more durable.

Gotta say i think its odd that they would use such big drive axle cups on B version, seems just re using the regular tt02 cups would have been better, especially since it seems quite common that people want a bit more droop and/or ride height.

Oh, whats this glue gun mod?

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19 hours ago, Ziddan said:

Oh, whats this glue gun mod?

It helps to keep the dirt out , I think it was done by a member here 
I did it on 2 chassis but waiting on parts and will redo the Tt02b and make a tt02 rally and another Tt02b , I will probably copy you and use a VW body

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Ah, now i understand where this goes so ill be printing it :)

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Needs a little bit of cleanup but im real happy with it this far, **** masking is time consuming tho.

Gonna paint in the door handles, window trim, match the rear lights+protrusion above the rear number plate and then a couple of coats of varnish.

Ive got an idea for a custom driver and maybe a door motif.

 

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Painted the rear lights, put them and the pokey bit on the back of the body on, varnished, painted+attached the engine(pipes are printed in flexible filament), printed side mirrors+coated them in plastidip+attached, put in headlights.

Need to plastidip the front bumper, paint up+install the wipers, windows and driver.

Anyone got any good idea for making the driver removable?

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Your project is looking really good so far.

That faux motor looks great as well.  I really wanted to add this feature to my DT-02 project but with the rear motor extending very far to the rear, there just wasn't space for it.  So, I've opted for the standard rear guard and pipe look instead.

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For the removable driver, I reckon you'll just need to add some thickness to the mounting pad on the door so that it will accept a short screw.

Will you be able to post a short running video when the car is completed?

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1 hour ago, IXLR8 said:

I've opted for the standard rear guard and pipe look instead.

For the removable driver.

Will you be able to post a short running video when the car is completed?

Yah it looks like it would be pretty hard to get any bits between the actual motor and the cage, having the cage and pipes tells enough of a story tho so it will still be great when you are done.

Ive had some more looks at the driver and what i want to do, figured out that the head can be magnetized very easily and taking it off will give enough space to put in the fpv camera ive got left over form my drones.

Post vid when done, for sure, hope it gets warmish and dry soon too for some sweet driving weather.

Thanks dude :)

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Okay, at the risk of offending, this is just my opinion so it really means nothing.

I think FPV is perfect for drones and RC planes but it can be rather boring if it's from a surface vehicle.  Looking at stunning landscapes taken from a high elevation is really exciting but watching the scenery fly by 3" above the ground just doesn't have the same impact for me.

Besides, when I click on an RC car video, I prefer to see the car not grass, tree roots and the driver's feet.  Again, just my opinion so it means nothing.

I really hope you will consider posting some video of your car in action.  I think that would be awesome!  :D

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No offense taken, i have no idea if it will be fun but since i have the hardware and am building a car i figured it make the option to at least try it.

Dont have any plans on making vids beyond showing a drive when its done, fpv is for my curiosity.

Printed a head and painted it+the body.

Looks like he might have taken offence ;)

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