Sgt.Speirs' Dyna Blaster

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

@Collin: @Quincy participated in the first event and the inspection to see if the cars were align with the regulations was not very strict.
Do you strongly recommend this support brace respectively do you think the Dyna Blaster plastic part breaks easily by a front impact (e.g. after a badly executed jump).

Due to I have also a Dyna Storm I can switch easily on this FRP part if it's necessary (and if it will fit).

[Collin 1937]

7 minutes ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

@Collin: @Quincy participated in the first event and the inspection to see if the cars were align with the regulations was not very strict.
Do you strongly recommend this support brace respectively do you think the Dyna Blaster plastic part breaks easily by a front impact (e.g. after a badly executed jump).

Due to I have also a Dyna Storm I can switch easily on this FRP part if it's necessary (and if it will fit).

I never liked the plastic top plate very much. The Dyna Storm one is slightly longer and need to be cut. I got the idear from a Tamiya prototype which was run by a spanish Teamdriver where he made it this ways so I just found it very cool too : )

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

At the weekend, the weather was bad, so I could finished the bracket for the rear body mount.
 
As for bracket of the rear damper stay, I also used POM as raw material with my hand-milling machine...

 

 
As body post I used battery mounting screws (TA-9805886) which are also used in my TB Evo 5. And as counterpart from the bottom I reused two press nuts (TA-19805827) from the Dyna Blaster.

 
And finally installed on the damper bridge...a massive body mount 😁

 
By the way, I installed also a support rod between both damper screws because they protrude a little bit too much IMO.

In between the body post is enough space to apply a foam that the body sits tight without play.

As mentioned in my previous post, @wtcc5 and I will participate on the Tamico Offroad Cup with our Dyna Blasters.
I hope the weather will be good on Saturday,  then we/I will do a test run on our "sand pit" track.

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

Today I have made the additional holes in the body at the rear.

 

The body sits almost perfect on the chassis without play…

Now once again install the electronics and then we look forward to Saturday...

[Collin 1937]

Very well exectuted again. I really dont understand why the used only a single mount at the rear originaly.

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

Last weekend, @Quincy, @wtcc5, his dad and I had a great day in our sand pit. Quincy with his DB-01R, wtcc5’s dad with his Top Force and wtcc5 and I with our Dyna Blasters.

After 10 min on the track and some wild rides over our small ramp, I detect this…

The self-printed rear suspension mount fails.

Fortunatelly had wtcc some spare parts/prints in his box, so the day was not over for me yet. Thanks buddy 
There were no further issues with his parts during the day.

Some impressions of our great track…and the stunning DB-01R:

I hope wtcc5 finds time and motivation to also make a video of the day with his captured footage  

Now it's time to clean the car and think about how to increase reliability.

[Collin 1937]

Zip bag mod! How smart is this : )

Regarding D1/2, you should also use slightly longer 3mm shafts and a carbon fiber brace facing the back end of the car.

This long suspension arms and heavy weels do gain good force to the susp. blocks.

; )

 

Edit#1: found this... I put the blocks on steroids first, later added the brace, now I can make the blocks smaller again. LoL

Edit#2: your block cracked along the layers as usual. Try some pa12 mjf/sls printed ones. They last longer but still not bullet proove. D5 bulkhead is printed as well, is not it?

 

 

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

On 5/23/2023 at 10:27 PM, Collin said:

Edit#2: your block cracked along the layers as usual. Try some pa12 mjf/sls printed ones. They last longer but still not bullet proove. D5 bulkhead is printed as well, is not it?

The D5 bulkhead is also in FDM technology, but withstands the hole day without issues.

But the D1, D2 and D5 parts in PA12 MJF ist the plan for the final race day. I'm working on it

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

So here we are 2 days after the Tamico Off-Road Cup near to my home town.

In general, the Dyna Blaster was the dominant car in its (truck) class. The competitors with their Blitzer Beetle/Stadium Blitzer were near behind me, but only because I'm a newby in RC racing. In the hands of an experienced, the Dyna Blaster dominates all other. But later more.

So I prepared my car as in my last post and did a training day with my mate @wtcc5 on a sunny day.

And here we have short video from the track from my mate.

 

I was a excellent day until my last run...I missed the big ramp after the wall and had a bigger impact on the rear suspension. All parts were ok, only the FRP plate got damaged:

I have a spare part of the plate, but this is more for the future shelf queen restoration.

So when I unloaded the RC stuff from my car, my neighbor asked me how the day on the track was. I told him the story and he meant „Give me the DXF file of the plate, than I can mill the plate in a material what you want!“. I have to say that my neighbor is a passionated RC aircraft/helicopter builder and pilot with a big tooling park in the cellar.

Two day later we milled the part while drinking a beer, cheers!

Due to 3 mm thick carbon was not available, I decided to use the 3 mm FRP material from a past project.

In parallel, @wtcc5 designed a own carbon front shock tower...insane!

And then it overcame me and had decided to preserve as much of the original parts as possible:

J6 and J7 parts (stabilizer mount), ...

...E4 part (front bumper)...

...and E1 part (motor guard)

And the result complete with electronics:

Due to my family vacation I wasn’t able to test the setup once again on the race track.

And than the Tamico Off-Road Cup started…

Preparing for wet condition...

 

And more Dyna's

 

On Saturday the weather was fine and we could drove the race schedule as planned. Three free practice runs and four pre-runs (qualifying). I had to stop only one run each because of a broken suspension block (D2) after harder impact (driving error).
They were still made in FDM technology, so I was not surprised about that. But we had enough spare parts with us

On Sunday we had completed the fifth and final pre-race before the rain started for most of the day. So the race organizer decided to cancel the event and took the results of the pre-race as final result...2nd place with a little help from my race mate @wtcc5who made a superior first place.

Picture of the winning cars from my tent/pavilion mates.

If you are interested in this event, there are more pictures @Tamico or @blautal_rc_car_racer on Facebook or Instagram.

And what's next?

There is already some brainstorming how we can improve the Dyna Blaster for racing without wearing out original parts...stay tuned

[Collin 1937]

Congrats guys! Looking forward to what is coming next making the Blaster reliable.

The third Blaster looks really cool too, was it a original one?

[wtcc5 4236]

@Collin: Original Dyna Blaster with TBG repro body and custom MCI decals. The owner traveled from Switzerland to attend this race.

[Kol__ 2823]

Awesome stuff @Sgt.Speirs! So great to see you guys keeping these old beauties alive, and running and racing!!😎😎😎

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

As I have already mentioned, we have considered which parts we can replace in order to preserve original parts.

@wtcc5 has already shown the first step in his Dyna Blaster thread by replacing the plastic chassis by a carbon one. Same here...

The design of the chassis is quite similar to wtcc's, but the lower plate is a little bit wider due to I mostly use standard battery packs (no shorties). So I can place the receiver and the ESC along the battery.

For the bracket of the rear carbon damper stay I have choosen the one from the XV-02 chassis (TA-22056).

The reason for this decision was, that the distance between the two rear mounting points is with 14.5 mm almost the same as from the original gearbox (14.0 mm).
@toyolien: Thanks for measuring so I did not have to buy the part blindly
 
By using the tolerance of both parts, the original gearbox can be used with this carbon chassis variant.

Different to wtcc5's design, I don't want to use the standard TRF201 gear case (respectively @ThunderDragonCy's gear diff variant - a brilliant design).
As I did it for my Nissan King Cab, I want to create a gear case with TRF201/TD4 internals, but which will also fits into a original Dyna Blaster/Storm (same interface points).

And an additional requirement for me was that with this gear case design the original motor plate, spur gear cover and motor guard can also be re-used.

And that's the current (and not verified) status of this concept:

Yes, I know that the opening for the slipper adjustment is still missing

And the gear case itself:

Compared to the TRF201 gear case (left side), I had to reposition the idler and counter gear axis in a straight line so that the Dyna motor plate holes did not go through the gear case itself.

But there is still some to do/investigate:

1. Investigation regarding the clearance of the spur gear cover and the diff out drives as well as the standard universal shaft will be long enough to get into the new diff.

2. On the original Dyna Blaster/Storm gearbox, the LH and the RH gear case parts have the same width. That means that the motor plate and the gearbox sub plate are excactly 19.5 mm away from the center of the chassis.

2. The motor plate of the TRF201 gearbox is 3.3 mm more away from the centerline.

My solution was to move the idler gear and the counter gear (slipper axis) each by a few millimeter to the center of the chassis to compensate the 3.3 mm. I know, with this action I reduce the overlapping surface between diff gear/idler gear and idler gear/counter gear, but maybe it is negliable from a functional point of view.

We will see this in test runs in the near future

[ThunderDragonCy 7285]

@Sgt.Speirs This is excellent! Would the clearance issue be solved if the layshaft was a little higher? If so maybe you could use a non-Tamiya idler? Any 48dp idler would work. The Schumacher cougar one is 30t. I used a 40t yokomo in my TRF211 laydown. 

[Kol__ 2823]

3 hours ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

And an additional requirement for me was that with this gear case design the original motor plate, spur gear cover and motor guard can also be re-used.

And that's the current (and not verified) status of this concept:

Wow mate, this is amazing!!😎

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

After printing the RH gear case with my 3D printer I came to the same result as I measured in the CAD: The clearance between diff out and spur gear cover is zero.

A small operation with a Dremel on the spur gear cover could solve this issue, but that would not be my intention.
A custom 3D print of the cover could also solve this issue, but this would means additional parts (and costs).

So I decided to go the way @ThunderDragonCy mentioned and use a non-Tamiya idler gear with more than 27Tteeth.
After some investigations with different gear sizes I ended up with using a 30T gear (e.g. U7623 from Schumacher - not 48dp).

From the outside, the changes are almost not noticeable:

And from the inside only if you look closely:

And the clearance now…perfect! 😁

To bring the motor guard align with the E5 part (on the chassis plate), I had to lift the E5 part with two 2mm washer…also perfect!

Now I‘m waiting for the 30T idler gear and do parallel the modifications inside the gear case for this.

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

This week the 30T idler gear from Schumacher arrived...but unfortunately it was not a 48dp module. It looks more like M0.6 from TA01/02 gears....

After some research and tips from several friends I decided to try the Team Associated "DR10M31T Metal Idler Gear" with 31T.

For this one additional tooth I have to modify the gear case once again, but finally it fits great:

(The gear case was reduced to the only relevant things)

The idler gear is 1 mm wider than the Tamiya one. This is helpful for the shifting of the idler and counter gear more in the centerline of the chassis.

And today the postman brought another big package...the carbon chassis parts:

Upper and lower deck, the rear damper stay and a two-parted upper deck for the plastic chassis (for a next Tamico Offroad Cup).

I decided to order these parts this time from a new company and as I have hoped the carbon fiber pattern looks nearly the same as the Tamiya ones:

(Egress lower chassis deck in the background for the comparison...do you see the edge of the upper carbon chassis? )

I started with the chassis stays in the middle...

...added the front parts (steering, kick-up, bulkhead and damper stay) and the test print of the new gear case.

The parts for the rear damper stay:

Then the marriage of upper & lower deck with the damper stay assembly:

And for the final pics for today's status, I mounted also the suspension arms, dampers, motor plate and motor guard:

The next steps are:

- Update the LHS gear case regarding the 31T idler gear
- Printing the gear case by a professional company

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

Today it's only a short update, but it's a promising one.
 
I've played a bit in CATIA with the positions of the axis (idler/counter gear) of the gear case and the alignment of the original motor plate and finally found a setup that works with the original chassis without any additional parts (e.g. washer for the motorguard bracket).

 
The printed test parts confirmed this, so I can take the next step and order these parts from a professional 3D printing company😊

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

Today we have a bigger update. Yesterday arrived the 3D printed parts from 3Dbavaria:

Great quality and not worse than the Shapeways parts, but much cheaper.

The ball bearings fit perfect…

…and the gears run smooth.

But to be honest not so smooth as the original gearbox 😊

And the completed gearbox:

 

The blocks for the suspension (D1 & D2)…I‘m sure they are more reliable than the self-printed ones.

And here we have the built-in gearbox…the left side with the original universal shaft (using the outer mounting hole of the rear uprights):

And the right side with my DIY universal shaft (using the inner mounting hole of the rear uprights):

And clearance between spur gear cover and diff out…perfect:

And the 3D printed spur gear cover fits also fine:

Tomorrow I will make a fit-check of the gearbox in my Dyna Storm to check the compatibility with all original parts.

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

Today I have checked the interchangeability of the gearbox. Can I switch the gearbox 1 by 1 or are some tweaks necessary?

First, both beauties🥰

(LH the original gearbox, RH the Dyna201 gearbox)

 

Installation was easy and fast done…

But here we see the issue. The width of the original diff (diff-out to diff-out) is 54 mm, the width of the TA06 gear diff is only 51.5 mm. In this case the universals are not so deep inside the diff-cup…not so good.

Then I changed the rear upright against the new 3D printed one. These uprights compensate the less width of the gear diff.

That looks better and similar to the original config 👍🏻

 

 

As a conclusion of the whole:
The rear uprights have to be changed with the gearbox or longer universals have to be used.

And now the gearbox back in my Dyna Blaster chassis...

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

I still want to share some pictures of the gearbox inside the great Dyna Storm before it goes back to the Dyna Blaster:

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

And then we have the final pics of the chassis completed with the electronics…

I‘m looking forward for the first meeting on the track with @wtcc5‘s Dyna Blaster😊

 

And what could be next…I‘m thinking about doing a custom polycarbonate undertray/dust cover. And a new repro body shell for racing next year…

[ruebiracer 951]

Awesome work @Sgt.Speirs! What a beast! Love the replacement gearbox with modern components like the gear diff. It will be a reliable racing machine for the Tamico cup I guess! Hats off!

[Sgt.Speirs 1161]

@ruebiracer: Thanks, mate! I'm looking forward to the following tests over the next few months, which should show how reliable the gearbox really is.

I also changed the motor/esc setup once again to put more strain on the gearbox…LRP 8.5T brushless combo (Spin Pro ESC and Vector K7 8.5T motor).