Beetle Mania (Sand Scorcher/DT-02 and Blitzer Beetle)

[IXLR8 1167]

... or, A Tale of Two Beetles.   

Hi everyone, this is my first post on TC but I’ve been poking around these forums for a few years. 

I’m an old guy who’s been around RC for a very long time.  Beginning with RC planes with my dad in early 1970's then purchase my first surface RC vehicle around '79 or '80 - a newly released Tamiya Sand Scorcher ordered from the Tower Hobbies catalog.  The car was built and finished mostly box-art except that I replaced French Blue with Orange and added to the headlights tiny incandescent bulbs from the model railroad hobby.  I sold that car sometime in the mid ‘80’s – wish I had taken some photos but no.

So, a few months back I picked up a Blitzer Beetle and while building that car, I got the idea to recreate the Scorcher from my early days.  Of course, the 2010 Sand Scorcher re-release kits are available again but this time around I want to build the car around a lighter and more modern chassis with A-arm suspension, a gear diff, etc.  I want something that looks like a Scorcher but with better performance.  After considering a few different chassis options, I landed on the DT-02 – or more specific, the Holiday Buggy version.  If I had been aware of the differences, I’d chosen the Sand Viper version instead.  For only 50 bucks more, the Viper comes with oil dampers, adjustable camber links, metal out-drives, axles and dogbones, a 540 motor, and full bearings.  It also includes a lexan body and wing that likely will fit many different off-road buggies in the collection.  However, completely ignorant of the differences, I went cheap and got the Holiday Buggy – well okay, so be it.

 

 

So, the plan is to paint the Blitzer body similar to my old Scorcher (using TS-98 Pure Orange) and recreate the alternate livery shown in the back of the original SS manual using MCI’s reproduction decal sheets.  The Blitzer chassis will be as standard – no mods.

 

For the Scorcher, the DT-02 will receive new custom arms to permit track width and wheelbase to match the original Scorcher.  The goal here is to minimize chassis mods; alter the track and wb with arms alone if possible.  Of course, the body will be finished as close to box-art as possible using French Blue and MCI’s reproduction decals.  I have a special modern 2.2 wheel and tire package in mind for this car that will pay homage to the vintage car (well, I think it’s special anyway).

 

The new DT-02 arms and rear guard assembly have been printed and the initial chassis mockup is nearly finished at this point.   I’m just test fitting printed parts, adjusting the "dampers" and sorting the body mounts.  I’ll post more detailed info on that in the next update. 

We’re approaching spring and with more moderate temps and low humidity, it’s time to get those bodies prepped and painted.  Both will receive some body work, two colors plus clear and polish so this will take some time.

So, this will be a two-for-one build thread and I hope y’all will check back later and watch what happens.  

[Re-Bugged 10159]

Cool 😎, you can’t have to many Beetle shells in a collection, enjoy it mate. 

[Ziddan 947]

4 hours ago, IXLR8 said:

sorting the body mounts

Ill be following this thread, before i decided on TT02B for my first RC kit i was looking at DT02 and DT03 but ended up wanting to go 4wd

Not sure if it will help you but i just designed Sand Scorcher body shell mounts for my TT02B, files over in my thread in the design section, might give rise some ideas or thoughts.

Love the Blitzer as well, my tt02b is sort looking like a mix between Scorcher and Blitzer with its wide stance.

[IXLR8 1167]

22 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Cool 😎, you can’t have to many Beetle shells in a collection, enjoy it mate. 

Thanks.  Yeah, this could become another obsession.

Back before I got the Blitzer, when I first caught the “bug” (sorry) to build a Tamiya Beetle, I spent some time browsing images on the web to see what others were doing with their Sand Scorchers.  I was amazed at the diversity of builds - from ultra-scale beach rides to outrageous monster beetles and everything in between.  The Tamiya Beetle truly is a blank canvas and the only limit is your imagination.  I’m very happy Tamiya brought this back.  I only hope it stays around a while now.

[IXLR8 1167]

19 hours ago, Ziddan said:

Ill be following this thread, before i decided on TT02B for my first RC kit i was looking at DT02 and DT03 but ended up wanting to go 4wd

Not sure if it will help you but i just designed Sand Scorcher body shell mounts for my TT02B, files over in my thread in the design section, might give rise some ideas or thoughts.

Love the Blitzer as well, my tt02b is sort looking like a mix between Scorcher and Blitzer with its wide stance.

Yeah, I checked out your build – nice work!.  Last fall, I built the Neo Scorcher ( also TT-02b) and I believe that chassis should make an excellent base for your Scorcher build.  I'm curious to see what wheels you choose for your build.

Regarding the body mounts, thanks for the inspiration.  Your body mounting system appears to be very well designed.  For my build, I also want to stick with the original Sand Scorcher mounting system so I have fitted an aluminum bar “roll hoop” to the rear shock tower that interfaces with the stock metal clip system on the body.  Now I just need to make a bracket that spans the front shock tower on which to fit a turned aluminum mount for the front.  ... not a difficult task.

[IXLR8 1167]

Just a quick update on the Blitzer body.

The unused mounting holes were plugged using some of the sprue removed from the sun roof area...

... and I've applied some of Tamiya's filler and sanded them flat.

Next, the parting lines were removed.  I find that rather than reaching for the sand paper, it's more efficient to use an Xacto knife drawn along the length of the ridge to remove most of the ridge.  Then use sand paper to work the area flat (320, 400, 600, 800 grit). 

 

Those awful divots above the front fenders were a challenge.  On the left side, I used a square profile jewelers file to work the area down and remove the divot.  I think perhaps this has created a large recess so I used a different method for the right side. 

For the right side, I've used Tamiya filler to fill the divot.  This method created a lot of work and I'm thinking the results will be no better than left side.  I will study this further once the primer has been applied.

Next, the entire body will be wet sanded using 1500 grit, then rubbed down with a brown Scotch Brite pad to reach the areas inaccessible by sand paper.  This should provide some tooth for the primer to grip.  The repaired spots will receive 3 initial prime coats to fill the sanding scratches, then the entire body will receive 5 additional coats.

 

 

[IXLR8 1167]

For this body, I've glued the sunroof panel in place.   I didn't fill the gap because I like the look.

For the Scorcher body, I'm thinking about fitting a simple hinge so the sunroof panel will open about 20 degrees.

 

[IXLR8 1167]

It’s Prima Time baby!!  

Primer is my favorite kind of paint since it’s nearly impossible to screw up.

The body has been prepped, washed and dried using compressed air.  I’ve fabricated from wood scraps a simple handle with a hook.  The body can hang inverted between coats and hopefully this will minimize dust settling in the wet paint.

The colored plastic is really difficult to cover with white primer.  This is 8 coats total, about 170 grams (about 6 oz) of primer and I can still detect a hint of the orange and black plastic showing through the paint.

The good news is that so far there are no sand scratches projecting through the primer and the surface is very flat.  If it still looks this good after 24 hours, I think the body will require only a rub down with the Scotch-Brite before applying the white top coat.  If scratches do appear, I’ll need to gently wet sand the primer before moving on to white paint.  So far, it looks good.  

 

[IXLR8 1167]

It's sunny and dry here today and perfect weather for painting.

So, the white paint is finished.  With three standard coats followed by one very wet coat, the paint flowed and leveled itself really well - there’s very little orange peel to contend with. 

The nose continues to display an orange tint however.  I think this is due to the translucent nature of the plastic (light passing through it is affecting the white paint) so I will apply silver paint to the inside surfaces to make the nose completely opaque.  This paint will be applied with a brush to avoid the need to mask the rest of the body.  When the body is finished and as a final step, the moldings around the windows and the inside of the body will be painted flat black and this will cover the silver.  Anyway, hopefully this will solve the problem. 

I hope we have weather like this when it’s time to paint the Scorcher body.

 

 

In a couple days, the white can be rubbed down with Scotch-Brite then it's time to apply masking for the orange paint.  I'm going to try for the first time Tamiya's flexible masking tape.

[Frankster 2033]

@IXLR8 this looks great.  Excited to see the final products

[IXLR8 1167]

13 hours ago, Frankster said:

@IXLR8 this looks great.  Excited to see the final products

Thank you, sir.

I really want to have the body prepped and masked by the weekend when the weather will turn moderate and dry again (storms are headed our way today so I couldn’t paint even if it was ready).  I’m traveling next week so I hope to have the orange paint applied before I leave.

This experience makes me appreciate polycarbonate bodies where you just need to trim, wash, apply window masks, paint, remove protective film, apply decals and you’re finished.  Finishing hard plastic bodies can require a lot of work.  That's probably an understatement.

[Frankster 2033]

I hear you.  After my Monster Beetle was finished, was afraid of driving it after all I hard work I put in

[Busdriver 6209]

I was going to ask if these were runner bugs or show bugs??? You have put so much effort Ito the body work it would be a shame to gravel rash them on the first outing. I’ve got two bug bodies neither of which dares to be in the same room as yours but I’m going to get a kamtec lexan one to use as a runner!!!

[IXLR8 1167]

7 hours ago, Busdriver said:

I was going to ask if these were runner bugs or show bugs??? You have put so much effort Ito the body work it would be a shame to gravel rash them on the first outing. I’ve got two bug bodies neither of which dares to be in the same room as yours but I’m going to get a kamtec lexan one to use as a runner!!!

Well, both actually.  I seldom, if ever, build an RC strictly for the shelf.  Eventually, every car gets powered-up for a run.

However, like other prized RC’s in the collection, both of these will be ran on a lawn and nowhere near gravel, dirt or pavement.

Also, the Scorcher will retain the supplied 380 motor; I won’t bother upgrading for more power so it should be safe to run without fear of rollover damage.  It certainly won’t do wheelies or set any speed records but I’m okay with that.  The joy for me comes from watching the car drive around and the suspension articulate as it bounces along.  Yeah, I’m easily amused.  

I think those Kamtec lexan Bug bodies look great and you won’t need to spend hours prepping and painting.

Thanks for comment on the build.  

[IXLR8 1167]

On 3/22/2022 at 11:16 AM, Frankster said:

I hear you.  After my Monster Beetle was finished, was afraid of driving it after all I hard work I put in

Your MB looks great.  By chance is there a build thread here on the forums?

[Frankster 2033]

14 hours ago, IXLR8 said:

Your MB looks great.  By chance is there a build thread here on the forums?

Sorry no thread.  Nothing special.  My first hard shell and I sanded, primed and painted.  Wanted a bright metallic red, but TS metallic red is deep mica.  Went though various shades of red and just gave up.  May prime again and paint it proper Italians bright red as per box art. 

I picked up a 5 light LED roof bar. Cut out 2 light buckets and moved the LED into the headlights. Just drilled 3+mm holes and used glue gun to make it easily reversible.  The roof light bar is zip tied to the factory bracket at the license plate. 
 

other mod is adding a brace to the gear box from @Xeostar

 

other build I did document is the TT-02 Porsche RSR Safari Rally car

[IXLR8 1167]

Just a quick update before I head out to apply some orange paint.

The entire body was rubbed down with a Scotch Brite pad and washed and everything is taped-up and ready to go.  I've spent 4-5 hours with the masking tapes.  Yeah it's crazy but I work incredibly slowly .  This will be practice for the Sand Scorcher body.  I'm not an expert painter and this is by far the most complex paint scheme I've ever attempted so I need practice.

 

 

 

Tamiya's 3mm flexible tape was used for everything except the top which I used their 6mm standard tape.  Ordinary 3M masking tape was used to fill in the gaps.

The flexible tape lays down great however I wish it was available in other colors besides white - it's very hard to see against the white paint.

 

Anyway, I'll rub the edges of the tape one last time, lightly tack the surfaces to be painted to remove any dust, mount the body on the handle and get it painted this afternoon.

It's cool and dry here today so hopefully everything goes well.

[IXLR8 1167]

Well, it's been an hour so it's time to carefully remove the mask and see what we've got.

Thankfully, there were no major mishaps - nothing that can't be corrected or covered during the next steps.  There are a few fuzzies from where the paint pooled against the mask but I think these should flake off after the paint is fully set.  Tamiya's flexible masking tape worked great - the edges are very crisp.

 

I don't understand why but I can never seem to get Tamiya spray paints to fully self-level.  I warmed the can, applied two light coats to seal the masks followed by two very wet coats to finish (waiting 10 minutes between coats) but for some reason I always end up with grainy patches.  This is most prevalent on the sides ahead of the doors.  Anyway, I'll wait a few days for the paint to fully harden then lightly wet-sand to smooth the roughest patches.  Finally, the body will be rubbed with Scotch Brite before applying clear coat.  I'm planning to use Duplicolor's clear acrylic lacquer - I've always had better luck getting Duplicolor paint to self-level.  

The orange/white combination definitely brings back fond memories of my first Sand Scorcher decades ago.  😊

[Ziddan 947]

Looking sharp!

No experience with self leveling tamiya sprays (only used PS spray on the inside of one body shell this far) but from using filler primer and plastidip spray ive seen a grained application but then just blast some more on to make the droplets flow together, might be the same with tamiya spray.

[IXLR8 1167]

Thanks.

Yes, one huge advantage of painting the inside of polycarbonate bodies is that you don't need to worry about paint texture.

Anyway, I soaked it really well those last two coats; any more paint and I was afraid it would start dripping.

Having more time to think about it, perhaps it comes down to application technique - the sequence of application during each coat and always working to keep a wet edge and avoid going back over paint that was just applied.

Anyway, 24 hours later and the paint seems to have leveled a bit more -- except for that really rough patch ahead of the right door, that will require some wet sanding.  I think it will look fine after clear coat.

I'll make another attempt tomorrow afternoon since I nearly have the Scorcher body masked and ready for some French Blue. 

Practice makes perfect - well, not "perfect" but perhaps improvement.  😉

[Ziddan 947]

Good luck on it and looking forward to seeing how it turns out

Ive been putting together a DT-02 chassis today, just now trying to figure out mounts so i can move my Scorcher shell onto it, wanna try 2WD and with the right wheels

[IXLR8 1167]

Thanks again.  It's looking like a great day for painting.

This is my first DT-02 build and I have to say that I like the car.  Like the TT-02, the DT seems to be a solid design lacking many of those pesky known breakage issues with older Tamiya's.  Also, the DT is inexpensive, relatively easy to mod and upgrade parts are readily available - it appears to make a good platform for custom builds.   And, did I mention that it's cheap?  Also, the shape of the chassis tub sorta reminds me of the RC10 (my all-time favorite RC car).

My only complaint is that the direct-to-servo steering links lead to some horrendous bump-steer.  A proper bellcrank system should solve the problem but there's not much space available for extra parts between the bulkhead and servo.

Speaking of the DT-02, next week while I'm waiting for paint to dry, I really want to turn our attention to the mods I've made to adjust track width and wheelbase to match the specs of the SRB chassis.  Not especially clever - just some printed arms and simple mods to kit shocks -  but perhaps some might find it interesting.  

Best of luck with your DT.  

[Frankster 2033]

Love the orange.  Colorful and retro. Reminds me of a creamsicle 🤗

[Ziddan 947]

23 hours ago, IXLR8 said:

My only complaint is that the direct-to-servo steering links lead to some horrendous bump-steer.  A proper bellcrank system should solve the problem but there's not much space available for extra parts between the bulkhead and servo.

Two quick ideas come to mind:

If the plate that goes on top is cut to allow the servo (possibly a low profile one to keep the height down) to stand up (possibly moving its arm lengthwise), or sitting the servo in the compartment to the right of the battery then one might be able to fit a proper bellcrank in there.

Another option could possibly be a pinion on the servo and a rack that goes nearly the full width of the chassi to keep the pivots of the steering rods closer to the pivots of the arms.

Something like this.

Im not that bothered about the bumpsteer for my usecase so i havnt really dug into it, but dang just having the ideas this might be something i could remix/design files for so i might give it a shot

[IXLR8 1167]

11 hours ago, Ziddan said:

Two quick ideas come to mind:

If the plate that goes on top is cut to allow the servo (possibly a low profile one to keep the height down) to stand up (possibly moving its arm lengthwise), or sitting the servo in the compartment to the right of the battery then one might be able to fit a proper bellcrank in there.

Another option could possibly be a pinion on the servo and a rack that goes nearly the full width of the chassi to keep the pivots of the steering rods closer to the pivots of the arms.

Something like this.

Im not that bothered about the bumpsteer for my usecase so i havnt really dug into it, but dang just having the ideas this might be something i could remix/design files for so i might give it a shot

Those are some excellent suggestions - thanks for that.  I'd very much like to explore the stand up servo concept and I will do that after the builds are completed.

By the way, the Blitzer chassis has a similar bump-steer problem.  Maybe like adding bearings, Tamiya thinks adding a couple bellcranks and associated hardware could make the kit too costly.    Anyway, I think it's a minor issue with an otherwise good chassis design.