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ADRay1000

Throttle adjustment question.

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Hi all,

I’ve recently returned to the hobby. Since my last stint, a lot has changed. Radios don’t use crystals, ESCs are programmable, etc…

I have a Monster Beetle reissue that is just a little bit tippy at top speed, and delicate.  My old school r/c brain went to downsizing the motor to a 380, but I haven’t found a purpose built adapter for the orv transmission. my question is, am I able to program a Tamiya TBLE-02 so that it’ll run slower than top speed? What are pros or cons of doing so? 

thanks

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55 minutes ago, ADRay1000 said:

my question is, am I able to program a Tamiya TBLE-02 so that it’ll run slower than top speed? What are pros or cons of doing so?

Are you using modern 2.4 controllers or old crystal ones? If modern ones, they usually have DR which is meant for this although some will use EPA instead. If you are still using old crystal controllers, perhaps consider an upgrade? 

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If your radio has end point adjustments, you can dial it down so it won't hit top speed. I don't think the Tamiya ESC itself can be programmed to that extent.

Another idea: what about a crawler motor? A 540-size 35-45 turn motor would bolt right in in place of the 540, slow it down some, and also increase your run time.

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rc4z-e0004.htm

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Yes, as mentioned, even a $45 radio has End Point Adjustment these days.  You can limit it to 90%, 85%, anywhere you like.  

zsPmQN6.jpg

 

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thanks for the replies everyone.

I am using a Futaba 3PRKA 3 channel "dumb" radio :D. What can I say, I loved the Magnum Sport.

looks like the crawler motor might be the simplest option for what I'm after.

Thanks again.

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3 hours ago, ADRay1000 said:

I am using a Futaba 3PRKA 3 channel "dumb" radio

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Good find Alvin!  I often miss things like that. Some of my old radios had servo reverse switches in the battery compartment and other odd places.  

 

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26 minutes ago, Juggular said:

Good find Alvin!  I often miss things like that. Some of my old radios had servo reverse switches in the battery compartment and other odd places.  

 

If no DR is available, EPA will be the way to go. But really the way to reduce throttle power should be DR. The hint is in the name, dual RATE. I had explained how and why before for the OP's benefit, on ESC like the 1060, I hit full throttle at about 60 odd% trigger travel (I have an ESC that hit full throttle at 48%), meaning the rest of the trigger travel is wasted, and control is less precise. It often will not be a neat number, more like say 63%. So if EPA is set at 64% (1 or 2 extra % for drift), the full trigger travel will hit full throttle at max travel. If I have to mess with EPA to dial it down when handing it to a kid (for example), I have to remember the 64% when getting it back. Whereas if I use DR, 100% is 100%, and I just need to wack it back up to 100% to know I am getting full power back when I am driving. 

To expand on that, 50% on DR is 50% power while 50% on (the 64% example) EPA is 78% power. 

This does not apply so much for OP's ESC as TBLE has endpoint adjustments, so 100% is 100% (actually there is 1 or 2% drift in my tests) so EPA is perfect for his needs. Also, note that this will not work at all for auto sensing ESC like the Mtroniks ones. 

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Thanks for the further info. Dialing the throttle control and EPA yielded good results. My old radios didn’t have EPA and I didn’t want to adjust it differently than the settings specified by the manual. 
 

thanks again

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