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Thanks mate, I think I'll pick up some of that blue grease, as it did look to me like the Team Associated green slime mixed with the shock oil in the cylinder. May grab some of those x-rings on my next PJ order too. Cheers:)

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Small update today, time for some motive power.

The prevailing wisdom is that you need to cut away at the gearbox casing in order to cool the motor, and whilst I have a few ideas I’ll save that until I can get a spare parts sprue. 
In the meantime getting a decent spec motor seemed like a sensible plan and I found a Fantom Icon 13.5t on eBay. It’s got “kawasaki” steel so it must be good I guess ;)

E291CF32-89D6-4F00-B0C3-B3ADB208936D.md.
 

17t steel pinion (54628) is possibly the most obvious upgrade in this whole build.

D5F14B53-605D-4859-84E8-D510DD885C55.md.

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The fight against Friction is as old as time, but my friends I’m here today to tell you that it can be defeated! For too long it has dragged us back, ways impeding our progress, ever the brake on our glorious  forward trajectory. 

But no more! 

Now we have the ability to limit its influence, to run freely with out fear of binding! 

But how I hear you ask!? Harken at me now as I tell you of a wonder ingredient, not from the gods, but from Science! It’s is smoother than silk, greyer than a politician and sound like something in your toothpaste….ahh I see you have guessed what it is, I am of course talking about FLOURINE!

BA97F26D-8034-4F71-B59A-67932C6FEABF.md.

:) Totally unnecessary hop ups, all of which aimed at lowering friction, as if I’ll notice…

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Don't knock it @matisse, we all know that every titanium screw and every piece of flourine coated metal we add to our builds gives us a tenth off here and there on our local bashing circuit!!:ph34r:

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Front hubs next, obvs this could be really easy, but then it’s me so…..nah

565DAE25-DFE8-4570-B5C6-578E67E280B7.md.

DF03 front hubs so needed the TG10/DF03 axles, paired with 53569, the 6mm aluminium clamp hexes, because they weren’t blue…….

The fun part will be fitting 54075 TB03 Flourine Coated Ball Head King Pin, which seems pretty straight forward at first, but then not so much.

2781E6D1-89BB-4600-A5C2-078E7BE2B0CF.md.
 

First shims of the build, 10x5x0.1 to remove lateral play on the axle.

A0ED784F-CE01-42D8-ACF0-3010370C3388.md.

So this is how the TB03 Hubs go together, note the flanged tubes at the top and bottom so the knuckle spins on them and not the hub itself, smooth. Turns out if you try to build the DF03 hub this way, you’re wrong. It doesn’t fit. The ball stud fits fine but not the bottom tube. 


048FF631-BA79-4F4D-8451-01C354CA8650.md.

 

FB5540FE-34B1-457D-8E65-CCCC441446FF.md.
Here’s the DF03 manual, very different and significantly less smooth imo, not what I’m looking for. The solution as always is to throw more Hop-Ups at the problem. 
 

E55B3D57-35F1-4DC5-A554-DB802BF7DA54.md.

The thinking is to reverse the installation of the DF03 instructions. Using the flourine coated flanged tube and Ball stud of then TB03 set installed as per the TB03 instructions at the top and a step screw style king pin at the bottom. Hence 54237 M-05 Low friction King Pin. 
 

AB2DBC46-72E9-400D-AB61-43B2D78FF5EC.md.

Of course it’s not that easy….the King Pin has a diameter of 6.5mm and the hole is 6.3mm….so after some dremel work it fits fine and works smoothly.

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Very much enjoying doing a little bit every day at the moment, little bit of time to myself each day, it’s very soothing.

Today I mocked up the Front and Rear ends to see if there were any issues that would need solving and then built the turnbuckles ahead of final assembly when the Ti suspension pins arrive from Germany.

31F9685A-633E-4C0A-9F9D-1BF27AD0BE32.md.
 

Looking good! Rears look a-ok, dampers and turnbuckles will create no issues.

960C5277-AA03-4A68-A6DE-E50449FE0E64.md.
 

Fronts however are excessively canted back due to the further forward mounting positions of the DF03 arms, I’ll have to order a few spaces to try and reduce that a  little. Makes me glad I decided to remove the large block of plastic on the back where the self tapper goes in, it would look very unbalanced with a large spacer on the front as well.

Turnbuckles next:

5256578C-E7A4-48C8-95D2-3C8918B11C52.md.
 

53601 Low Friction 5mm adjusters (obvs) and you’d be hard pressed to find better value turnbuckles than the Schumacher HTT. Look great, strong and in a wide range of sizes.

BA2436E5-A1B0-4BF8-845F-19E9CDC99CD0.md.
 

Having measured ahead of time I knew that I’d need 50-55mm for the Front and 60-65mm for the rear. I’ve got into the habit of tapping the adjusters and using a dab of grease over the years, makes them much easier to build. 
 

F423AF93-9882-4EA9-A76D-E647374C9F98.md.

et voila!

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Nice one mate, mods coming along really wellB) I have a couple of the Astute/Super Astute used shock spacers which I could consider letting go if they'd be of use?

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Progress has been made and I have been slack on updating the build thread, for that I apologise.

this is where we are right now.

A752404C-1583-4FD9-8E7A-8ED2D3B62893.md.
 

details of how we got here coming soon.

 

 

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Okay…. Lots to catch up on so let’s go for a speed round…..

99842E4A-1B1A-4696-8D53-11B122CEBC32.md.
 

Installed the servo saver, remembering to use the smaller horn.

B9DB5E08-C4E9-42F6-B8E6-01783A3B30E8.md.
 

that doesn’t look right….

4478131A-5FD0-49C2-8CD5-EE9A6ECA634E.md.

better. if you use the alloy mounts remember that they have two mounting holes and use the front ones.

BF39F6F3-9C7F-4938-B3F7-C8394D69C122.md.
 

Steering turnbuckles installed. You need much shorter lengths than stock, 52mm for the left and 72mm for the right.

A7BE2416-9DC8-497C-A2D9-4B2BD76BBB1B.md.
 

initial fit of the camber links. 52mm for both.

DC545C41-BEF0-45A2-A415-58453208997F.md.
 

53599 Flourine 5mm ball nuts all round, as friction is our mortal enemy. Schumacher standoffs to space the front shocks out.

2601590E-03DF-44F1-AFB7-0DE17253602E.md.
 

C40D9F0A-AC07-45B0-98B5-7D6CFAB4F081.md.

B24A49F0-E6A4-4754-ABB5-C1ACACC91795.md.
 

Dampers mounted, still excessively canted back and they don’t move freely at the mounting points, but I do like the out front look.

A752404C-1583-4FD9-8E7A-8ED2D3B62893.md.

Cut the body out and that’s how we got to this point.

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That front set up presents two problems.

1) the geometry is just weird, as much as I like the dampers our front look, neither the camber links of the shocks operate efficiently at those angles. Everything binds a little.

b) The steering links mounted on the top of the knuckle arm solves one problem as the bump steer is SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED (was that loud enough for those of you at the back?) But the RH steering link hits the chassis brace as the suspension moves.

EFC50793-17F3-4DF4-A634-EB8D1BF89FFC.md.
 

The solution here is to cut a small slot for the arm to move up and allow full suspension travel. Picked up a parts tree so I can do this with a spare.

For the front geometry the solution is also easy.

ABB24736-EBAB-4DFF-96D2-75124FE6FCCD.md.

3628067A-AE83-4B36-B299-9E65B956DF8E.md.
 

4C665E76-0641-4075-8EA7-C9ABDC964EB6.md.
 

as you can see from that final pic, the angle of the damper between the mounts is much less severe, everything moves much more smoothly in the set up.

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Hahahaha, Megalols and indeed Roflcopter at my goal of not doing too much modification……got the dremel out again today.

24ADEDF0-74FD-4076-8BC4-DE37A4F52E86.md.
 

That’s the steering link sorted then.

B4F2CC0E-38CF-42D4-8CB5-6636DF4E68B6.md.
 

0467E7F4-53B8-4934-9C8E-34CA152F2AA0.md.
 

And that’s those odd bits at the front of the battery tray removed so I can slide the shorty as far forward as possible.

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On 4/16/2022 at 9:32 PM, matisse said:

The fight against Friction is as old as time, but my friends I’m here today to tell you that it can be defeated! For too long it has dragged us back, ways impeding our progress, ever the brake on our glorious  forward trajectory. 

But no more! 

Hallelujah! 😀

On 4/16/2022 at 9:32 PM, matisse said:

Now we have the ability to limit its influence, to run freely with out fear of binding! 

But how I hear you ask!? Harken at me now as I tell you of a wonder ingredient, not from the gods, but from Science! It’s is smoother than silk, greyer than a politician and sound like something in your toothpaste….ahh I see you have guessed what it is, I am of course talking about FLOURINE!

Preach brother @matisse, preach 😃

On 4/16/2022 at 9:32 PM, matisse said:

:) Totally unnecessary hop ups, all of which aimed at lowering friction, as if I’ll notice…

Oh….🤨

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5 minutes ago, Juhunio said:

Hallelujah! 😀

Preach brother @matisse, preach 😃

Oh….🤨

Testify!!!

do you feel the spirit of the holy flourine in side you my brothers and sisters!!!!?

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2 hours ago, matisse said:

I may have bought more Hop-Ups…….

 

55 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I approve of this message 

I concur with the above statement good sirs.

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4 hours ago, matisse said:

I may have bought more Hop-Ups…….

That is the way!

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I'm not sure what I like better.... the impeccable witicisms, or the brilliant transformation from basic Buggy to something that could actually WORK. 

I plan on using a lot of this to make my Holiday Buggy into something NICE! Of course after dumping that rotund Body!! 🤣

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9 hours ago, Carmine A said:

I'm not sure what I like better.... the impeccable witicisms, or the brilliant transformation from basic Buggy to something that could actually WORK. 

I plan on using a lot of this to make my Holiday Buggy into something NICE! Of course after dumping that rotund Body!! 🤣

Thanks my friend, tbh I sometimes I think I enjoy writing the build threads more than the build itself.

glad it can be a source of inspiration. :)

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“It’s been a long time, I shouldn’t have left you, without a strong post to step to”

Apologies to Rakim…..

I’ve been away on business, but also waiting for parts to turn up before the build could push on again.

A06EB7A2-85CE-4A0E-BDCA-AF732E1DD7DC.md.

lo for the promised Bonus Hop-Ups have been attained!

613EC3E8-A146-42ED-ADE4-AFFE6F8BD01B.md.

And finally the last pieces in our war on friction.

More on the wings later, mostly as I finished cutting them at 1am last night and didn’t take pics.

28F87A73-1959-4C92-80A4-766E3217A087.md.

These do what they say on the pack, always quite a strange Hop-Up as its hard to see how they are any better than a simple screw, but you don’t come here for that kind of talk!
So we’re all in on the low friction coating, which I suspect is the holy flourine, and tbf the are really easy to use and look good too. Kinda perfect for this build then. 
 

E0D1EA4C-4F8C-424D-992F-C5979260AF69.md.

next time, Titanium Nitride!!!!

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Silky smooth hinge pins.

That’s it, that’s the post. 

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Hahhahaha, as if I’d leave it at just that…

Ti Ni hinge pins, a must have for a high end build imo. Unfortunately Tamiya didn’t make a Hop-Up set for the DT02 or DF03, however their approach to using and reusing parts across multiple platforms means all is not lost. Take the inner hinge pins for instance. On the DF03 these at 48.5mm as per the manual, the same length as some of the M-Chassis cars.

This is great as it means we can use part 54213.

E57BF7C5-4FC6-4FC5-B52C-A8C363FCC7E7.md.

CC1D5346-968A-4B6A-9891-F5775E21F623.md.

As they are captured by E-clips, they are of course not exact in length….you’ll need a 1mm spacer at each end for the fronts. 

21A06937-1197-42AA-883A-F02134A25279.md.

For the rears a big issue when fitting the TL01 steel hinge pins with the DT02 arms was the need to dremel the chassis so they could fit. The DF03 arms are thinner at the forward mount so no modifications are needed. 
As for the fronts you’ll need 2mm of spacer which I would recommend putting at the rear.

9E5C9059-02EA-4694-A4FF-AF943B3D99F5.md.

378BA178-D490-41D7-9F41-4E3AF17B8D4A.md.

Look! it fits!

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The outer pins are a little harder seeing as they are captured by grub screws in the DF03 and don’t extend past the edges of the arms. I couldn’t find suitable replacements that were 3mm diameter so went the E-clip route again.

Measuring up anywhere in the 30-32mm range for the fronts would work, and 35-37 for the rears I thought. 

D03A1A1D-3FE1-43A4-91AE-520DE92F12A8.md.
 

54160, F104 King Pins measure up at 3x33mm, so that’s close enough I think.

75241219-36E8-4022-B734-DDD7232B29B2.md.

1mm spacer at each each end and we’re golden.

7CB3A60A-3848-4126-9BBB-49166F0D4655.md.

Fully assembled front end, added a 1mm spacer behind the inner ball stud so the camber links don’t foul the shock springs.

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06BA316D-F525-4757-ADBB-1049A4DA669E.md.
 

Return to the Valley of the M-Chassis!

(gold star for anyone who gets that obscure 80s rap reference)

54212, 3x37mm M-Chassis suspension pins. It’s possible that the F104 king pins would fit again…but I think it would be very tight. So went with these. 

CC605D6F-E3E5-465D-82C2-652ED26AA76A.md.

Ran out of spacers, so used some o-rings. Black until I realised I only had two, but also that the red ones are better.

AA457495-9740-449C-BDFB-DCE16DCE6074.md.

9790F674-5874-42F2-8B2D-914B65516BB3.md.

For some reason I decided to not get the DF03/DT02 Tamiya CVD drive shafts, which was a mistake. These Yeah Racing Spring Steel units are nice, but one of the pair was poorly machined and I couldn’t get the bearings on. Of course the stock of the Tamiya part is low and they are silly expensive, also I’m stubborn so I grabbed another set of the YR ones.
The lesson as always,  Should have bought Tamiya first time. 

2F3A2E12-D342-432B-BD41-6CDB6708274B.md.

861B1A72-A87C-47BA-97E2-16EF6600C21A.md.

With the shocks mounted the rear set up looks pretty s*******y imo.

Such high end, many smooth, wow.

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Hahah, the Bad Word detection is too good: s w a n k y, that what was blanked out 

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